6" x 22 " 558 samsung 561c led panel

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
they were A1..thanks
Thanks for the reply! So, same binnings and performance like F-Series strips!
This also explains why they cut a bit worser in Cobbies test than the quantumboards, which are known to use AZ or AY bins.
Really nice boards, anyway!

@Johnnycannaseed1
There is no venture when using true SM561c and I don't think they ripped him off by using cheap 5730 instead of Samsung diodes.
These board were samples, made with the possibility of a bigger charge of boards later. The producer knows this boards will be tested and if they not deliver the expected performance there is no further investment.
So, this in mind, I do not think they are fake!
 

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
you may be right about the s6 bins and testing Random..i dunno..i am no expert
i agree .they wanted my biz and now believe they gave me the best they had..
the factory guy was in disbelief ....
even giving me 2 free samples after i mentioned the test results..
re test..they would not fit in a sphere ..i am no expert..
at any rate they are doing well
and johonny i agree about it being easier and possibly sensible to throw leds at em run lower wattage
not need heatsinks and have very even coverage.

i am excited about finally making a nute ratio that may be something i will want to live with.
 
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nogod_

Well-Known Member
Do you know what bin they use in the h-series gen3?

Thanks for the reply! So, same binnings and performance like F-Series strips!
This also explains why they cut a bit worser in Cobbies test than the quantumboards, which are known to use AZ or AY bins.
Really nice boards, anyway!

@Johnnycannaseed1
There is no venture when using true SM561c and I don't think they ripped him off by using cheap 5730 instead of Samsung diodes.
These board were samples, made with the possibility of a bigger charge of boards later. The producer knows this boards will be tested and if they not deliver the expected performance there is no further investment.
So, this in mind, I do not think they are fake!
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
I am seeing S7 bins available for these at about 2.5% increase roughly over S6. Old news or not quite yet? from the Samsung webternet pages direct.....
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Do you know what bin they use in the h-series gen3?
I think also S6/A1.
For instance, the H-Series datasheet says 179-180lm/w @480mA and 50°C Tj. for the 2ft/3000k strip.
There are 6 cluster of 8 LED's in series, so 480:8=80mA per diode and string.
When I enter these values into the Samsung Calculator, it outputs 181,6lm/w for the S6/A1 binning.
AZ would be 188,3 and AY 195,5lm/w at 80mA.
It seems Samsung is a bit conservative in their datasheets.

Unfortunately there are no strips available with top bin in flux and voltage and S6/AY bin is harder to get. Ask HLG guys..
Sometime if Samsung yields enough S7 bin chips the H- and F-Series will get an updatde to gen.4 with up to 200lm/w in 3k and 220lm/w in 5k. :blsmoke:
And a half year later the first T2 bin comes out..., Lol!:cuss:
The best chip you can get today is already out of date after a half year or so.
Long story short:
Previously, I spent every year in hardware for my PC until it was me too much, now I spend my money into new LED hardware haha...
But LED's are much more productive, LOL, which makes it a much more lucrative hobby as a high-end PC..:bigjoint:
 
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kony brado

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply! So, same binnings and performance like F-Series strips!
This also explains why they cut a bit worser in Cobbies test than the quantumboards, which are known to use AZ or AY bins.
Really nice boards, anyway!

@Johnnycannaseed1
There is no venture when using true SM561c and I don't think they ripped him off by using cheap 5730 instead of Samsung diodes.
These board were samples, made with the possibility of a bigger charge of boards later. The producer knows this boards will be tested and if they not deliver the expected performance there is no further investment.
So, this in mind, I do not think they are fake!
hi there
from hlg site:

* Min values calculated using AZ Voltage Bin, Max values calculated using A1 Voltage Bin

** For more details refer to Calculator here. Use values LM561C, 3000K, 80 CRI, AZ or A1 Voltage Bin. # of LED as 288x (number of boards). Change IF_Drive mA to see lm/W and flux for different power.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
hi there
from hlg site:

* Min values calculated using AZ Voltage Bin, Max values calculated using A1 Voltage Bin

** For more details refer to Calculator here. Use values LM561C, 3000K, 80 CRI, AZ or A1 Voltage Bin. # of LED as 288x (number of boards). Change IF_Drive mA to see lm/W and flux for different power.
This seems is a bit out dated, they use AZ and AY bin on their current generation. But you can ask them directly or search the quantumboard thread for latest news about the boards.
I'm sure I've read it there.
 

kony brado

Well-Known Member
This seems is a bit out dated, they use AZ and AY bin on their current generation. But you can ask them directly or search the quantumboard thread for latest news about the boards.
I'm sure I've read it there.
i went to the diy with qb's thread and this quote is from robin ,from last sunday:


@robincnn Will these batch's of boards be similar voltage for the last batch. Using both for a big driver and doing the Parallel-Series Wiring? Also what glue should be used to apply the Florence Linear Optics?

just like last few batches, this entire batch is S6 flux and AZ Voltage bin. both.. best voltage and best flux bin . So yes the Voltage bin is same as last batch. voltage should be very similar

so ...mystery solved
thanks
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
@OMS gotta say this type of design makes sense as far as LED... no scrub that as far as horticultural lighting is concerned, having tested similar lighting layout/configuration back in the day using 4ft x 8 Phillips TLD 36w/840 tubes I always found performance was much better vs 600w HID, due to the even distribution of light across the canopy and the Fact that you could place the tubes within touching distance of the plants... With the advent of LED strips, QB's and your panels here this type of layout is/was a no brainer... Good luck on your venture;)
I had some dimwit on reddit try to tell me a few days ago that "distributed light" was not a "thing".... LOL
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Okay, my bad!
AY bin seems hard to find in the required quantities. I was sure I had read something from AY bins on 304 boards, but in my head buzzing so many numbers and binnings, I can easily be on the wrong turn.
If they actually use AZ bins the Samsung strips are only 7lm or 4% behind!
 

kony brado

Well-Known Member
Okay, my bad!
AY bin seems hard to find in the required quantities. I was sure I had read something from AY bins on 304 boards, but in my head buzzing so many numbers and binnings, I can easily be on the wrong turn.
If they actually use AZ bins the Samsung strips are only 7lm or 4% behind!
Hi man thanks for the replay,i know what you mean ,every time i want to build a new light i have to research new tech and become a human calculator for a while LOL.
I think you mentioned befor that you ordered the h or f series stripes,can i ask how much you paid for them and where you source them?
Have you build your light yet and are you happy with it?
thank's

edit:
One more question if you don't mind:
Are you going to connect your stripes in series ,parallel or the combination?
And abut series parallel connection ,what do you think is best:
1) Parallel the ac outlet from driver and running gropes of stripes in series ?
2) Running a series string of paralel connected stripe grupes ?
thank's
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Hi man thanks for the replay,i know what you mean ,every time i want to build a new light i have to research new tech and become a human calculator for a while LOL.
I think you mentioned befor that you ordered the h or f series stripes,can i ask how much you paid for them and where you source them?
Have you build your light yet and are you happy with it?
thank's
Digikey, bulkprice 10$+VAT above 25pcs, 2ft./3000°k, F-Series.
Thanks for your interest
I will do 2 parallel clusters of 8 2ft. strips and connect them in series for safe 45-46v and use a Meanwell HLG-150H-48A to creat a 150w light. C-channels for the strips and a big C-channel as driver housing for a design like the SpyderX.
Maybe I'll add 2 custom channels with Osram Oslon reds and deep-reds for flowering and a 3rd channel with SemiLEDs 380+430nm as terpene enhancer for the last few weeks on two APC-25-500. So 200w maximum and I'll make two of them!

Below are some pictures of my older buildings using CXB's.
 

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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
But decisions are not yet final.
I would also like to combine CRI80 and CRI90 and do it without the red custom channels. Unfortunately there is no F-series in CRI90.
I figured it out with 8 Citi 1212 CRI90 and 8 Sammy strips CRI80 to create 8 parallel strings from 1 COB and 1 strip each for ~56V and use one HLG-150H-54A. COB's and strips would run with ~350mA in this setup.
 

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kony brado

Well-Known Member
Digikey, bulkprice 10$+VAT above 25pcs, 2ft./3000°k, F-Series.
Thanks for your interest
I will do 2 parallel clusters of 8 2ft. strips and connect them in series for safe 45-46v and use a Meanwell HLG-150H-48A to creat a 150w light. C-channels for the strips and a big C-channel as driver housing for a design like the SpyderX.
Maybe I'll add 2 custom channels with Osram Oslon reds and deep-reds for flowering and a 3rd channel with SemiLEDs 380+430nm as terpene enhancer for the last few weeks on two APC-25-500. So 200w maximum and I'll make two of them!

Below are some pictures of my older buildings using CXB's.
wow ,very clean and :clap: build ,very nice
Abut the wiring im confused.you said you going to cluster 8 strips of 48v and have 2 of these connected in series to 150w 48v C.V C.C driver.but then you have 2 clusters of 48v and when you wire them in series you will get 96v on that string so it will exceed the drivers voltage (48v little more in A version) and stripes will not light up.
pleas correct my if im wrong,maybe i didn't understand well
thanks

edit: sorry man,you must have meant for the 23V stripes.i was thinking 46v.BRAIN MISHMASH
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the flowers! I've lots of pictures from building process but not enough time to create an own thread.
And now to the wiring..
The 2ft. strips needs 23v@1,12A. Forget to mention this..., sorry!
I will rum 8 of them soft and in parallel and this two times in series, would need ~45v.
The double row F-strips would need 46v @1,12A.

That's are all available F-series strips, prices are in €, you need to change language for $/£/¥ or what ever, 4 strips are 288pcs of 561c for only 40$+VAT.

https://www.digikey.de/products/de/optoelectronics/led-lighting-cobs-engines-modules/111?k=&pkeyword=&v=1510&s=56498&FV=ffe0006f&mnonly=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25
 
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Johnnycannaseed1

Well-Known Member
i would like to do organic as long as its hydroponic so it seems if i really want to do that

will have to go aquaponic since i don not feel pbp is organic and do not do jug nutes anymore

it would take more than a few fish..hahaha

anyway..I have kelp, dry soluble fulvic and amino acids... starting to use that as foliar
Hi OMS quick heads up, you shouldn't get too hung up on Organics per se (unless of course, it is for ethical reasons) because the term organics could be considered a bit of a misnomer as far as the plant is concerned. Because regardless of the source of the plant feed, nutrients are always absorbed by plants in an inorganic form.

Therefore whether you are using “synthetic” fertilizer salts or an organic cow pat from a field reared cow, both will end up in the plant as exactly the same inorganic matter so from your plants perspective they will never know the difference between the two sources.

In the case of the cow pat the organic matter is broken down (mostly by biological activity in the soil) into digestible inorganic matter which can then be taken up by your plants. In the case of fertilizer salts, they are already in inorganic form and.are therefore more freely bio-available than organic matter.

Kelp mixed with soluble Fulvic is a good way to go because the Fulvic acid acts as a chelating agent (so does the amino acid) and therefore makes all the ions readily available for absorption.

With regards to Foliar spraying with amino acids, in my opinion, that seems like a good idea because amino acid cycling and transport takes place at the roots where amino acids are imported through the Phloem and then exported through the Xylem and into the leaves, by foliar feeding the amino acids to the plant directly to where it needs to be should in theory mean less work for the plant = more energy to spend elsewhere.... Tbh though I have not conducted a proper trial to test which way is best me personally I used to root feed the amino acids to my plants purely because this is how it is in nature.

Maybe you could conduct a trial to see if foliar feeding is considerably better than root feeding:peace:

Ps good amino acids to use are;

L - Glutamic Acid = Chelation, Stimulates Growth, Promotes Germination
L - Lysine = Chelation, Chlorophyll Synthesis Stimulation, Promotes Germination
L - Serine = Auxin Precursor
 

Johnnycannaseed1

Well-Known Member
There is no venture when using true SM561c and I don't think they ripped him off by using cheap 5730 instead of Samsung diodes.
These board were samples, made with the possibility of a bigger charge of boards later. The producer knows this boards will be tested and if they not deliver the expected performance there is no further investment.
So, this in mind, I do not think they are fake!
Hey Random not sure exactly what the situation is with OMS all I know is he seemed to have been given 1 dodgy board.
Personally speaking of my own experience and having dealt with Chinese manufacturers and even getting the lowdown of Modis Operandi from one of the sales guys I ended up becoming friends with, what he told me was shocking, including a US client who put down a $100k for nano-reflective reflectors only for the factory to have powdered coated the reflectors in a standard white coating.

My experience is the Chinese will say anything to get a sale and the Chinese themselves will even tell you this too once you get to know them, they can be quite short-sighted when it comes to looking at things long term, that is not to say that reputable companies do not exist in China, because they do but they are hard work to find, and you can be certain that if you have a good idea it won't be long (generally speaking) before it is snuck out the back door and ripped off to the max.
 
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