Which led should i pick

coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Roocky said:
I would love to build one but im no expert and idk if ill be able to put parts togther.
How much of difference would it make. Is it worth trying ?
Click to expand...
For your space it would be very easy.
You could use
4x citizen clu048 1212s ($10each)
4x 120mm pin heat sink ($10each)
1x meanwell hlg 185-c1050 ($30-40)

You simply use thermal adhesive to attach the cobs (citizen 1212s) to each pin heat sink.
Solder the positive wire of the driver (meanwell hlg 185c1050) to the positive on cob 1, solder negative cob1 to positive cob 2, repeat till the cob 4 negative goes to negative on the driver. Its a very simple circuit that requires about an hour to do or less.
You then need a small amount of aluminium frame to hold it all and hang it. You would also attach an earth cable from the frame to the earth on the driver plug.

It would make the world of difference, not only would that only use 156w of power but it would be very powerful.
Its very easy to make and very safe. It will last a decade or longer.

This is pretty much what us LED guys use to grow with these days. It can be expensive but because your only in a 2x2 its really cost effective.
Although I mentioned digikey earlier, the best option price wise would be kingbrite on Alibaba for all the parts in one parcel. They will deliver to Saudi.

Check out this guys vids to get a better idea of what these lights can do.
 
Kerovan

Kerovan

Well-Known Member
coreywebster said:
For your space it would be very easy.
You could use
4x citizen clu048 1212s ($10each)
4x 120mm pin heat sink ($10each)
1x meanwell hlg 185-c1050 ($30-40)

You simply use thermal adhesive to attach the cobs (citizen 1212s) to each pin heat sink.
Solder the positive wire of the driver (meanwell hlg 185c1050) to the positive on cob 1, solder negative cob1 to positive cob 2, repeat till the cob 4 negative goes to negative on the driver. Its a very simple circuit that requires about an hour to do or less.
You then need a small amount of aluminium frame to hold it all and hang it. You would also attach an earth cable from the frame to the earth on the driver plug.

It would make the world of difference, not only would that only use 156w of power but it would be very powerful.
Its very easy to make and very safe. It will last a decade or longer.

This is pretty much what us LED guys use to grow with these days. It can be expensive but because your only in a 2x2 its really cost effective.
Although I mentioned digikey earlier, the best option price wise would be kingbrite on Alibaba for all the parts in one parcel. They will deliver to Saudi.

Check out this guys vids to get a better idea of what these lights can do.
Click to expand...
That looks really good and really efficient. But one problem I see with a high quality cob setup like that though is that people growing in small tents won't be able to keep their lights far enough away from the plants by the look of things. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Kerovan said:
That looks really good and really efficient. But one problem I see with a high quality cob setup like that though is that people growing in small tents won't be able to keep their lights far enough away from the plants by the look of things. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...
I will, your wrong. :-P
The OP has 4ft of height, I have 7ft. But all I need is 4ft to pull 37oz dry from 4x4 space. My light can be 8" or less from the buds.
Without reflectors or lenses you can run that close without any signs of light bleaching.
You can be much closer with these Cobs than any HID system, blurple lights though are more likely to create light bleaching, possibly due to the lack of green in the spectrum, or the lack of a better balanced spectrum

4IB8th08.JPG
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Kerovan said:
That looks really good and really efficient. But one problem I see with a high quality cob setup like that though is that people growing in small tents won't be able to keep their lights far enough away from the plants by the look of things. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...
Don't get me wrong though, obviously he would have to maintain a short plant, but that would be the case for any light with only 4ft of headroom.
 
mahiluana

mahiluana

Well-Known Member
coreywebster said:
light with only 4ft of headroom.
Click to expand...
:peace:

S6002055.JPG

this is a grow room with only 3 ft headroom - as you can see - every inch counts !
And there is no space for tall heat sink, wich need air convection to work well.

A small water pump (3 watt ) can transport 80% of your heat to outside of the grow room.
Silent and more secret as it can do a fan - and you need less air incoming, less carbon filter and water.
@Roocky - with a room fountain you can bring air humidity to your plants or outside
and only a 20 gal water bucket is needed for a 150W system, if you do not want to invest in a 20 gal heatexchanger(~ US$ 150,-).

The system is sold by a german company and comes as a premounted kit - you need a screwdriver and a soldering iron to mount it up easiely.

Another option for grow tents with restricted hight are flat led boards driven at low current
with only few mm to the top. 4 boards(max.200W each) + 150W driver starts @ US$ 80,-
in asia and give ~180lm/w efficiency.
The suppliers normally ship worldwide by DHL or Fedex with or without additional shipping fee. - @Roocky - Ask for a link if you are interested. :eyesmoke:
 
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mauricem00

mauricem00

Well-Known Member
Roocky said:
I would love to build one but im no expert and idk if ill be able to put parts togther.
How much of difference would it make. Is it worth trying ?
Click to expand...
with those amazon LEDs efficiency is less than 20%. 80% of your input power is converted to heat. with high quality diodes efficiency is 50% so only half your input energy is converted to heat and you get the same amount of light with only 40% of the input power. (25% of the heat) surprising how few there are in the LED crowd that can read and understand the test results these companies publish.CFLs and T5s are more efficient than these cheap LED grow lights. bridgelux EB strips provide 165LPW (50% efficiency) at 500ma. and can be driven at up to 700ma without a heat sink and are less expensive than COBs. a build would only require a simple frame to hold them and a little soldering to connect them together and to a driver on mine I use a simple wood H-frame to mount them to
 

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ThatSpudGuy

ThatSpudGuy

Well-Known Member
coreywebster said:
For your space it would be very easy.
You could use
4x citizen clu048 1212s ($10each)
4x 120mm pin heat sink ($10each)
1x meanwell hlg 185-c1050 ($30-40)

You simply use thermal adhesive to attach the cobs (citizen 1212s) to each pin heat sink.
Solder the positive wire of the driver (meanwell hlg 185c1050) to the positive on cob 1, solder negative cob1 to positive cob 2, repeat till the cob 4 negative goes to negative on the driver. Its a very simple circuit that requires about an hour to do or less.
You then need a small amount of aluminium frame to hold it all and hang it. You would also attach an earth cable from the frame to the earth on the driver plug.

It would make the world of difference, not only would that only use 156w of power but it would be very powerful.
Its very easy to make and very safe. It will last a decade or longer.

This is pretty much what us LED guys use to grow with these days. It can be expensive but because your only in a 2x2 its really cost effective.
Although I mentioned digikey earlier, the best option price wise would be kingbrite on Alibaba for all the parts in one parcel. They will deliver to Saudi.

Check out this guys vids to get a better idea of what these lights can do.
Click to expand...
Is kingbrite on alibaba a reliable seller?
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
ThatSpudGuy said:
Is kingbrite on alibaba a reliable seller?
Click to expand...
Yes very reliable. I believe some of the vendors on here even buy from him.
I bought my heat sinks and drivers from there, many other folks have used them including growmau5 back in the day.
Plus you can ask them to put a lower value on the invoice to save on import tax.
For those in USA or OZ there are equally competitive places to buy from but for UK/EU kingbrite is a good option.
 
Rolla J

Rolla J

Well-Known Member
Lol so i was on Wal-Mart.com. and figured to look up grow lights. And what do u know.. Same kinda lights on amazon like besteva viparspectra and roleandro, but different names lol
Be weary of walmart .com as well as amazon. You can get a "300w" led for 49.99 lol
 
mahiluana

mahiluana

Well-Known Member
mauricem00

mauricem00

Well-Known Member
mahiluana said:
:peace:
Sorry man - but I can`t agree

I measured heat production many times with different chips - and heat power was always

P = ~ 0,75 * Vf * If (CREE and Osram agree in that)

you talk about luminous efficiency, which is different from energy efficiency.


https://www.rollitup.org/t/water-cooled-cobs.909674/page-14#post-13410293
Click to expand...
that formula states that 75% (0.75 means 75%)of power input to diode is HEAT. translate to 25% radiant efficiency. a little outdated for modern high end diodes. if your going to use math to prove a point don't you thing you should learn to read equations. radiant power plus spectrum is the only reliable way to compare grow lights. the easiest way to measure radiant efficiency of a diode is to bolt it to a heat sink with a known C/W. add junction to case resistance to that number than measure the difference in IF between a cold diode and one that has operated long enough to reach thermal stability and divide that voltage differential by the TC of the junction plus the TC of the heat sink.lumens is just radiant power adjusted for human eye response so luminous efficiency is lumen output divided by maximum possible lumen output at 100% radiant efficiency .it is a reliable way to compare light efficiency.but does not tell how much of the light produced the plants can use or if the light produces a good spectrum for plant growth
using terms the average person does not understand to sell a product is misleading and does not work with people who are educated on the subject. but then it would be much harder to sell expensive flashy lights to educated people . maybe this is why LED makers target stoners.
 
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CanadianDank

CanadianDank

Well-Known Member
mauricem00 said:
with those amazon LEDs efficiency is less than 20%. 80% of your input power is converted to heat. with high quality diodes efficiency is 50% so only half your input energy is converted to heat and you get the same amount of light with only 40% of the input power. (25% of the heat) surprising how few there are in the LED crowd that can read and understand the test results these companies publish.CFLs and T5s are more efficient than these cheap LED grow lights. bridgelux EB strips provide 165LPW (50% efficiency) at 500ma. and can be driven at up to 700ma without a heat sink and are less expensive than COBs. a build would only require a simple frame to hold them and a little soldering to connect them together and to a driver on mine I use a simple wood H-frame to mount them to
Click to expand...
Those look sweet, I really need to learn more about these.
 
mahiluana

mahiluana

Well-Known Member
mauricem00 said:
the easiest way to measure radiant efficiency
Click to expand...
:peace: ... is to measure the heat power ! In a watercooled led light this is very simple.

You only have to measure: If, Vf, water temp., wheight of the water and time.




Many different led chips(CREE, CITIZEN,... and others)

were tested by myself to proof the amount of heat power dissipated.

The chip in the blue condom is a CREE royal blue XLamp

And YES -a bit of the light will transform to heat crossing latex and water - but in case of 450nm really only a bit and doesn`t explain 80% heat power.

If you drive a 6500K chip @ 1W - you will produce ~ 0,75W of heat.
With ~0,25W you can produce 60LM / W with a cheap, crapy chinise chip
- or 160LM / W (~50% light efficacy as you told us))with a high quality chip.

100% light efficiency for a 6500K chip would be ~350LM / W
and for monochromatic green light ~680LM / W
as a physical barriere as you know.

https://ledlight.osram-os.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/OSRAM-OS_LED-FUNDAMENTALS_Thermal-Characteristics-of-LEDs_v2_08-16-11_SCRIPT.pdf

http://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/XLampThermalManagement.pdf
 
mauricem00

mauricem00

Well-Known Member
mahiluana said:
:peace: ... is to measure the heat power ! In a watercooled led light this is very simple.

You only have to measure: If, Vf, water temp., wheight of the water and time.




Many different led chips(CREE, CITIZEN,... and others)

were tested by myself to proof the amount of heat power dissipated.

The chip in the blue condom is a CREE royal blue XLamp

And YES -a bit of the light will transform to heat crossing latex and water - but in case of 450nm really only a bit and doesn`t explain 80% heat power.

If you drive a 6500K chip @ 1W - you will produce ~ 0,75W of heat.
With ~0,25W you can produce 60LM / W with a cheap, crapy chinise chip
- or 160LM / W (~50% light efficacy as you told us))with a high quality chip.

100% light efficiency for a 6500K chip would be ~350LM / W
and for monochromatic green light ~680LM / W
as a physical barriere as you know.

https://ledlight.osram-os.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/OSRAM-OS_LED-FUNDAMENTALS_Thermal-Characteristics-of-LEDs_v2_08-16-11_SCRIPT.pdf

http://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/XLampThermalManagement.pdf
Click to expand...
that chip operating at 50% efficiency would only produce 0.5 watts of heat for 1 watt of input. some of those cheap grow lights produce 0.86 watts of heat and 0,14 watts of radiant light. .energy is used to create light or heat but is not created or destroyed by an LED. 60/350 = 0.1714 or 17.14% of input energy being converted to light. the rest is converted to heat.you can not get away from the laws of thermal dynamics if you test are showing that a diode converts 75% of it's input energy into heat that only leaves 25% for light production. (87.5 LPW for that 6500k chip) time is unimportant once the system reaches stable operating temperature so the fact that time is an element in your experiment and that results change over time means that the test were done before the system stabilized
 
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