Is this a russet mite?

[NugHeuser]

A lot of these are showing deficiencies because they had been in their original 1g pots for about a month, they've been transplanted just a few days ago to 3g pots.

Does anything from these pics or what I said throw any red flags to you guys?
I'm particularly curious about what's going on with my bigger plant. Also kinda strange that the alien rift show heat stress above about 83 degrees, one or two days got to 89 and the leaves were nearly folded closed, this was with lights about 3 feet above them

 

[NugHeuser]

Are there normally resin glands on the stem of the leafs?

I ask because lastnight I decided to take a look at the stems, lots were purplish in color but only on the top side of the stem, bottom side was normal color.
Underneath the hairs of the stem were a lot of balls that resembled eggs/resin glands/broad mites but it was hard to keep steady to get a good look. I did notice though that they were all sitting at random, they did not seem to be evenly spaced apart like you would see with resin glands on the leaf blades.

I'm wondering if maybe I found a population of the mites so the two questions are; are there resin glands on the stems of the leaf under the hairs? And is it normal for only part(about an inch stretch) of the top side of a leaf stem to be purplish in color or does that sound like mites?

 

[NugHeuser]

Also even though my temps were at 74 this morning the plants leaves were still a bit droopy and blistered looking a half hour before lights out. They only get this look deep into the lights on cycle and it gets pretty ugly looking when temps are in the low 80s, then by the time I get home from work they're looking back to normal. Lights are about 27" away and it was nice and cool in there, any idea why they do this on a daily basis? Maybe it's the uv from the ceramic metal halides?

 

[JSheeze]

14 days into flower and noticing burnt/singed/short/curling/skinny hairs on one of my bud sites.

I flushed the soil (what I had to do that day) and since then have seen the hairs turn orange in color and seem to be stunted like described above. It seemed to be just one bud site, and I thought with all the racket I had been conducting (trying to get the spacing just right, I kept going back forth between a couple different spots in the trellis net, and was kinda rough pulling and pushing it through) was just stressed.

It seems to have spread out from that bud site and getting worse.
I fear broad mites.

Should I have orange hairs day 14? They are definitely getting shorter and skinnier..

It started as one site and has progressed into a region, leaving about 1/3 left looking unaffected while the rest is changing in different degrees relating to the original corner site.

It's my understanding that Avid, and Forbid are recommended for these mites because they're so hardy.

Can I use those chemicals being in only day 14? It's a heavy sativa I think, so I figured the flowering will be relatively long. Could I get away with it?

Suggestions anyone? Space heater in the closet for awhile?

These pics were taken day 7, so you won't be able to see what I'm talking about with the burnt hairs, just as a reference.


I'll post some recent pics when I get my camera back tomorrow.

 

[NugHeuser]

14 days into flower and noticing burnt/singed/short/curling/skinny hairs on one of my bud sites.

I flushed the soil (what I had to do that day) and since then have seen the hairs turn orange in color and seem to be stunted like described above. It seemed to be just one bud site, and I thought with all the racket I had been conducting (trying to get the spacing just right, I kept going back forth between a couple different spots in the trellis net, and was kinda rough pulling and pushing it through) was just stressed.

It seems to have spread out from that bud site and getting worse.
I fear broad mites.

Should I have orange hairs day 14? They are definitely getting shorter and skinnier..

It started as one site and has progressed into a region, leaving about 1/3 left looking unaffected while the rest is changing in different degrees relating to the original corner site.

It's my understanding that Avid, and Forbid are recommended for these mites because they're so hardy.

Can I use those chemicals being in only day 14? It's a heavy sativa I think, so I figured the flowering will be relatively long. Could I get away with it?

Suggestions anyone? Space heater in the closet for awhile?

These pics were taken day 7, so you won't be able to see what I'm talking about with the burnt hairs, just as a reference.
View attachment 4038717 View attachment 4038718
View attachment 4038719
I'll post some recent pics when I get my camera back tomorrow.

Do NOT spray forbid after you've already started flower. That sounds like a symtoms of broad/russet mites. Any other symtoms your experiencing or plants acting strange?

I say don't use the forbid during flower, especially at day 14, because I just got the stuff and sprayed yesterday and the warnings and hazards and "do nots" were 3 pages long. Big standard size pages. The stuff is not meant in any way to be sprayed on something that could be consumed. The only reason it's safe in veg is because those leaves that you're spraying now will all be grown out large fan leaves comes harvest. You have bud sites now, yes they're small but they're still there.
You will have to look into less harsh pesticides(ones that are safe in flower). As for the forbid, don't use it at this stage.

Get a good powerful usb scope off amazon, they're cheap, strong and take good pics. Take a look at your plants and see if you find anything.

Act fast, those micro mites are the last thing you want establishing themselves at day 14.

 

[NugHeuser]

And any temps over I believe 115 degrees for a couple hours is supost to put a big hurting on them. But If you do have mites you will be wanting to spray too. If you can, take the plants out of the closet. Get the closet up to temp first and then put them in there. A gradual rise in heat over several hours before reaching your target temp isn't going to be as effective because the mites will be able to acclimate to the heat easier and also will try finding anyway they can seek shelter, some will even burrow into the leafs to hide.

Try to shock em all at once if you heat them.

 

[JSheeze]

Thanks for the replies guys, I'm monitoring and will update with pics tonight.

And any temps over I believe 115 degrees for a couple hours is supost to put a big hurting on them. But If you do have mites you will be wanting to spray too. If you can, take the plants out of the closet. Get the closet up to temp first and then put them in there. A gradual rise in heat over several hours before reaching your target temp isn't going to be as effective because the mites will be able to acclimate to the heat easier and also will try finding anyway they can seek shelter, some will even burrow into the leafs to hide.

Try to shock em all at once if you heat them.

I'm growing via LED, so heat by way of cutting ac and fan isn't really viable, and the only space heaters I have are temp regulated so I feel that may impair my ability to reach the 120° mark, also it's in a small closet, but the door is definitely breathable further impairing consistency.

I have a fan-driven forced-air space heater, what would you think about shocking the tops for a while by holding up the heater and angling for intense coverage? How long?


Ever used a. cucumeris? I only have one plant and when googled can find it for sale @ 50,000 mites for ~$65. I can't find hardly any info on how it attacks broad mites, only how it attacks thrips, and it does that via the earlier stages of the thrip life cycle from what I could decipher.

What about californicus? (Think that's how you spell it) Swirskii?? I'm trying to find a predatory mite that will feed on the adult broad mite as well as the earlier larvae, ect. If ccucumeris will do that great! But if it doesn't I think I need to supplement a predatory mite that will take care of the adults along with the ccucumeris to stop the broads from reproducing??? Lol broads

Get a good powerful usb scope off amazon, they're cheap, strong and take good pics. Take a look at your plants and see if you find anything.

Like this one???...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00J9PBTLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975451&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+microscope&dpPl=1&dpID=41QLAUKdSZL&ref=plSrch

 

[JSheeze]

Do NOT spray forbid after you've already started flower. That sounds like a symtoms of broad/russet mites. Any other symtoms your experiencing or plants acting strange?

I say don't use the forbid during flower, especially at day 14, because I just got the stuff and sprayed yesterday and the warnings and hazards and "do nots" were 3 pages long. Big standard size pages. The stuff is not meant in any way to be sprayed on something that could be consumed. The only reason it's safe in veg is because those leaves that you're spraying now will all be grown out large fan leaves comes harvest. You have bud sites now, yes they're small but they're still there.
You will have to look into less harsh pesticides(ones that are safe in flower). As for the forbid, don't use it at this stage.

Get a good powerful usb scope off amazon, they're cheap, strong and take good pics. Take a look at your plants and see if you find anything.

Act fast, those micro mites are the last thing you want establishing themselves at day 14.

Thanks again! Also, when looking up what commerical fruit growers (tomatoes, ect, I guess have been becoming worse affected by broad at the commercial level lately?) use to deal with broad mites it seems they use a plethora of different chemicals, Oberon, portal xlo, ect to treat tomatoes, which are edible, so I feel like there are chemicals that can eradicate the mite without causing any more harm than eating a tomato from the grocery store, but I just don't know what the chemical compositions are, or what they label them as retail products, or maybe these commercial miticides are actually the same chemicals as the feared avid, forbid, ect, and that maybe they are bad for you, but takes more than eating a tomato or smoking a joint? I'm honestly just trying to figure out the truth. I know some miticides leave residue after the fact that can stay long periods of time, and this is why they are not advised for the flowering stage. Is this the reasoning for avid, forbid that your talking about? 8wks of water foliar spraying won't dilute the chemical to near zero?

 

[ANC]

You can use Method 1-pps in flower

 

[JSheeze]

You can use Method 1-pps in flower

Have you used it during flower for a broad mite issue? I'm going to research it further, but it seems like the positive comments are posted by a salesman instead of a consumer.. Curious what your experiences with it are? You have had success? This sounds like I'm calling you a liar lol, but I'm not I just don't know how else to articulate what I'm trying to get at, no offense implied.

 

[NugHeuser]

Thanks for the replies guys, I'm monitoring and will update with pics tonight.



I'm growing via LED, so heat by way of cutting ac and fan isn't really viable, and the only space heaters I have are temp regulated so I feel that may impair my ability to reach the 120° mark, also it's in a small closet, but the door is definitely breathable further impairing consistency.

I have a fan-driven forced-air space heater, what would you think about shocking the tops for a while by holding up the heater and angling for intense coverage? How long?


Ever used a. cucumeris? I only have one plant and when googled can find it for sale @ 50,000 mites for ~$65. I can't find hardly any info on how it attacks broad mites, only how it attacks thrips, and it does that via the earlier stages of the thrip life cycle from what I could decipher.

What about californicus? (Think that's how you spell it) Swirskii?? I'm trying to find a predatory mite that will feed on the adult broad mite as well as the earlier larvae, ect. If ccucumeris will do that great! But if it doesn't I think I need to supplement a predatory mite that will take care of the adults along with the ccucumeris to stop the broads from reproducing??? Lol broads



Like this one???...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00J9PBTLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975451&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+microscope&dpPl=1&dpID=41QLAUKdSZL&ref=plSrch

Yup that's an example of one. I wish I would've got one. Instead i have a handheld and it can be a pain to get a good look through and only goes up to 120x.

And if your only option would be to hold the heater on top of different parts of the plant than I probably wouldn't even mess with it. There are still very effective treatments that can be used during flower. The key is to change it up, throw 3 or 4 different kinds of pesticides at them, spray each one to two times, 3 to 4 days spaced depending on the products you're using. Spray for 2 weeks at the very minimum. Look into 'no pest strips' too. Diatomacous earth is good for cutting them up, sprinkle it in your dirt.

And I don't know as much on the predatotory mites except that they are effective and will eat the target mites. I dont think im going to go that route because i dont want mites of any sort on my plants but another user shared some awesome info with me either on this thread or on a different mite related thread, all about the use of predatory mites. I'll try finding the link on my lunch break.

 

[NugHeuser]

Thanks again! Also, when looking up what commerical fruit growers (tomatoes, ect, I guess have been becoming worse affected by broad at the commercial level lately?) use to deal with broad mites it seems they use a plethora of different chemicals, Oberon, portal xlo, ect to treat tomatoes, which are edible, so I feel like there are chemicals that can eradicate the mite without causing any more harm than eating a tomato from the grocery store, but I just don't know what the chemical compositions are, or what they label them as retail products, or maybe these commercial miticides are actually the same chemicals as the feared avid, forbid, ect, and that maybe they are bad for you, but takes more than eating a tomato or smoking a joint? I'm honestly just trying to figure out the truth. I know some miticides leave residue after the fact that can stay long periods of time, and this is why they are not advised for the flowering stage. Is this the reasoning for avid, forbid that your talking about? 8wks of water foliar spraying won't dilute the chemical to near zero?

I wouldn't go by what commercial fruit growers use. Sure youd think if theyre using it on fruits than it would be safe, but you also don't smoke corn on the cob lol.
Honestly I wouldn't worry a whole lot on chemical compositions, ect. Look for the tried and true formulas that cannabis growers all talk about, there's threads over the different types of common pesticides used all over the internet. Take the recommndations from fellow members of riu and Google them so that you can learn more about the products.

Honestly, about all the help you need is in this thread, it'll atleast get you started. And also the predatory mites talk is in this thread a few pages back.

Good luck

 

[Colo MMJ]

Have you used it during flower for a broad mite issue? I'm going to research it further, but it seems like the positive comments are posted by a salesman instead of a consumer.. Curious what your experiences with it are? You have had success? This sounds like I'm calling you a liar lol, but I'm not I just don't know how else to articulate what I'm trying to get at, no offense implied.

http://www.everwoodfarm.com/Pest_Insect_Cross_Listing/Help_with_Russet_Cyclamen_and_Broad_Mites
Predator mites - Swirskis or Andersoni's. Maybe Green Lace Wing Larvae

https://hydro-gardens.com/?s=green+lace+wings
HydroGardens also sells swirskis, andersonis, Bioworks Botanigard Maxx (BM). BM is accepted for use by state of Colorado for Rec grows.

I personally like Forbid 4F and so does Dr. Who who posts on these forums and he knows the chemistry better than I do. Avid and Floramite? No. I think Forbid is okay.

Alternatives - don't dick around because Russets mites will essentially destroy your plants fast.

1. Big Time Exterminator (BTE) or Nuke Em. Can be used up to day of Flower. Both indicate that they will kill Russet mites. I believe the main ingredient in both is Citric Acid and active yeast cultures. You can get them online or at any grow store. About $40 a quart. The guy at BTW says spray with ice water first.

2. Bronner's Peppermint Soap which is mainly oils. I would add a drop or two of Dawn soap or Ivory dish soap. If you have essential oils like peppermint, rosemary lavender, lemongrass, cedarwood or Cinnamon
- put drops of those in there.
3. Fels Naptha Soap - $1 at Wal Mart or grocery store on detergent aisle.

http://www.hansenfamilyfarm.com/blog/make-your-own-non-toxic-insecticidal-spray-soap
4. Essential oils - the big 4 are Lavender, Rosemary, peppermint or cinnamon.
$4.87 for 1 oz at Wal Mart. Piping Rock has deals online. Lavender is probably the first choice. Probably 10 drops per 1/2 gallon of water.

Spray under the leaves with lights off.

More things where a guy is using Lavender Bronners and Neem oil. It you have Neem oil, you can add it to 2,3,4 above.

PS: I speak from recent experience fighting Russet Mites. I used combos of all of the above and Forbid but no predator mites because usually you do not have time. You usually have introduce predator mites before you have a problem.

This guy uses 2 ozs of Rosemary oil, some Neem oil, a few drops of Dawn and water. Note this is for spider mites.

Canola oil. I have used this with spider mites. He uses a cup a gallon. I used about 4 table spoons and a few drops of Dawn soap in a gallon of water.
And no the canola oil will not clog the leaf stomata.

 

[NugHeuser]

http://www.everwoodfarm.com/Pest_Insect_Cross_Listing/Help_with_Russet_Cyclamen_and_Broad_Mites
Predator mites - Swirskis or Andersoni's. Maybe Green Lace Wing Larvae

https://hydro-gardens.com/?s=green+lace+wings
HydroGardens also sells swirskis, andersonis, Bioworks Botanigard Maxx (BM). BM is accepted for use by state of Colorado for Rec grows.

I personally like Forbid 4F and so does Dr. Who who posts on these forums and he knows the chemistry better than I do. Avid and Floramite? No. I think Forbid is okay.

Alternatives - don't dick around because Russets mites will essentially destroy your plants fast.

1. Big Time Exterminator (BTE) or Nuke Em. Can be used up to day of Flower. Both indicate that they will kill Russet mites. I believe the main ingredient in both is Citric Acid and active yeast cultures. You can get them online or at any grow store. About $40 a quart. The guy at BTW says spray with ice water first.

2. Bronner's Peppermint Soap which is mainly oils. I would add a drop or two of Dawn soap or Ivory dish soap. If you have essential oils like peppermint, rosemary lavender, lemongrass, cedarwood or Cinnamon
- put drops of those in there.
3. Fels Naptha Soap - $1 at Wal Mart or grocery store on detergent aisle.

http://www.hansenfamilyfarm.com/blog/make-your-own-non-toxic-insecticidal-spray-soap
4. Essential oils - the big 4 are Lavender, Rosemary, peppermint or cinnamon.
$4.87 for 1 oz at Wal Mart. Piping Rock has deals online. Lavender is probably the first choice. Probably 10 drops per 1/2 gallon of water.

Spray under the leaves with lights off.

More things where a guy is using Lavender Bronners and Neem oil. It you have Neem oil, you can add it to 2,3,4 above.

PS: I speak from recent experience fighting Russet Mites. I used combos of all of the above and Forbid but no predator mites because usually you do not have time. You usually have introduce predator mites before you have a problem.

This guy uses 2 ozs of Rosemary oil, some Neem oil, a few drops of Dawn and water. Note this is for spider mites.

Canola oil. I have sued this with spider mites. He uses a cup a gallon. I used about 4 table spoons and a few drops of Dawn soap in a gallon of water.
And no the canola oil will not clog the leaf stomata.

Killing it with that info man. So today I'm starting to notice on one or two plants, the lower leaves are really blistering up like you'd see as mite damage, and also i tried taking an up close look at 60 to 120x at a male preflower next to the main stalk which ive never scoped that part for mites before and instantly I noticed TONS of round to egg shaped greenish clear colored blobs, completely covering the stalk, underneath the hairs on the stalk. They wernt all perfectly round and eveny spaced like resin glands. Do resin glands even grow on the stalk? Do these sound like mites to you? Most of my stalks and stems have developed redish purple colored streaks and areas which is a sign of the mites.

So in that case if these were mites than I'm completely infested.
I've sprayed spino twice and forbid yesterday. Planning on this stuff I got from home depot with a bunch of oils and citric acid on Wednesday and then nuke em this weekend.

However if I'm completely infested do you think that will be enough? I'm still vegging, they're small and I have probably another month tops I could veg.

On top of that I use the other part of my basement which is the whole basement, for watering station, soil area and another tent that's currently dormant but held one of my infected plants for a bit.
So now I'm assuming the entire basement has to be treated(I really hope not), would you say I have to somehow treat the rest of my basement as well?

 

[Colo MMJ]

Killing it with that info man. So today I'm starting to notice on one or two plants, the lower leaves are really blistering up like you'd see as mite damage, and also i tried taking an up close look at 60 to 120x at a male preflower next to the main stalk which ive never scoped that part for mites before and instantly I noticed TONS of round to egg shaped greenish clear colored blobs, completely covering the stalk, underneath the hairs on the stalk. They wernt all perfectly round and eveny spaced like resin glands. Do resin glands even grow on the stalk? Do these sound like mites to you? Most of my stalks and stems have developed redish purple colored streaks and areas which is a sign of the mites.

So in that case if these were mites than I'm completely infested.
I've sprayed spino twice and forbid yesterday. Planning on this stuff I got from home depot with a bunch of oils and citric acid on Wednesday and then nuke em this weekend.

However if I'm completely infested do you think that will be enough? I'm still vegging, they're small and I have probably another month tops I could veg.

On top of that I use the other part of my basement which is the whole basement, for watering station, soil area and another tent that's currently dormant but held one of my infected plants for a bit.
So now I'm assuming the entire basement has to be treated(I really hope not), would you say I have to somehow treat the rest of my basement as well?

Note that Forbid 4f is not instant. It takes a few days to kick in and do the job but it does work.

What do you have on the walls? Panda plastic, mylar, concrete? I would spray the walls and floors too. The people I have helped either had panda white plastic or mylar. I would spray high on the wall with those concoctions so that the liquid would come down the wall.

You might want to wipe down light fixtures (not the bulb obviously) with 40% rubbing alcohol and 60% water.

You could also spray everything with water and 91% rubbing alcohol. This site suggests a 50/50 mix. You might want to do 60 water and 40 alcohol. It will evaporate. Warning - You will need some for of ventilation because that alcohol is strong. Post harvest - I will spray 15% bleach and 85% water in a closed room but I get out fast. I will follow up with a alcohol spray too. Again - vapors can be bad for your lungs. .

https://www.getridofthings.com/pests/bugs/get-rid-of-spider-mites/

Another cheap and less toxic "spray everything" option is Hydrogen Peroxide. You can get about 32 ozs or 16 oz at Wal Mart for 0.88 cents. You probably want 60% or more of 3% hydrogen peroxide to water. So if you are doing a 1 gallon sprayer (128 oz) you need about three 0.88 cent bottles. It will kill spider mites but not the eggs. Add a little Neem oil for that.

You can go to a Sally Beauty Supply, where hair dressers shop, a get the 20% or 30% hydrogen peroxide for about $4.50 for 32 ozs. Tell them what you are looking for. They usually call it developer. This sh*t is really strong. Maybe 10% of that to 90% of water. Don't get it on your clothes or hands. This is what hairdressers use on platinum blondes.
Most hydroponic grow stores sell this too.

*** I would wet the plants soil before doing a alcohol or hydrogen peroxide "spray everything" treatment.
.
https://www.growerstrust.com/blogs/news/6810228-non-toxic-spider-mites-killer

You might want to go to Wal Mart and get the Rosemary oil add a few drops of soap and spray everything..
If you are still in veg you can due all the cheap stuff like Fels Naptha Soap and or Canola oil. Forbid 4F should do the job. Some people swear by spinosad but I have heard hit or miss.

You might also want to bomb the basement with Pyrethium Total Release or Pylon TR Release. Are you anywhere near a place that has a hyrdroponics or grow store? They sell this stuff plus other pest control places. I knew a flaky hippie grower that swore by the Pyrethium bombs and said it was safe for the plants. If you can close off the basement - you might want to bomb it. You will need to leave your house for 2 or 3 hours and then air things out. Beware if you have any gas pilot lights in the house. In the past, people in low income house had roaches and used Raid bug bombs. They had gas pilot lights and blew up apartments.
You could leave the windows open upstairs. Put a towel under basement door.

One of the smarter guys on here said the standard bug bombs for fleas work. They are cheaper but I would not use them. The Pyrethium bombs are sold at all grow stores. .




https://www.google.com/search?q=pyrethrin+bug+bomb&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwitrvu9t6vXAhUIeCYKHSBCCdgQsxgILA&biw=1366&bih=651

 

[JSheeze]

Get a good powerful usb scope off amazon, they're cheap, strong and take good pics. Take a look at your plants and see if you find anything.

http://www.everwoodfarm.com/Pest_Insect_Cross_Listing/Help_with_Russet_Cyclamen_and_Broad_Mites
Predator mites - Swirskis or Andersoni's. Maybe Green Lace Wing Larvae

https://hydro-gardens.com/?s=green+lace+wings
HydroGardens also sells swirskis, andersonis, Bioworks Botanigard Maxx (BM). BM is accepted for use by state of Colorado for Rec grows.

I personally like Forbid 4F and so does Dr. Who who posts on these forums and he knows the chemistry better than I do. Avid and Floramite? No. I think Forbid is okay.

Alternatives - don't dick around because Russets mites will essentially destroy your plants fast.

1. Big Time Exterminator (BTE) or Nuke Em. Can be used up to day of Flower. Both indicate that they will kill Russet mites. I believe the main ingredient in both is Citric Acid and active yeast cultures. You can get them online or at any grow store. About $40 a quart. The guy at BTW says spray with ice water first.

2. Bronner's Peppermint Soap which is mainly oils. I would add a drop or two of Dawn soap or Ivory dish soap. If you have essential oils like peppermint, rosemary lavender, lemongrass, cedarwood or Cinnamon
- put drops of those in there.
3. Fels Naptha Soap - $1 at Wal Mart or grocery store on detergent aisle.

http://www.hansenfamilyfarm.com/blog/make-your-own-non-toxic-insecticidal-spray-soap
4. Essential oils - the big 4 are Lavender, Rosemary, peppermint or cinnamon.
$4.87 for 1 oz at Wal Mart. Piping Rock has deals online. Lavender is probably the first choice. Probably 10 drops per 1/2 gallon of water.

Spray under the leaves with lights off.

More things where a guy is using Lavender Bronners and Neem oil. It you have Neem oil, you can add it to 2,3,4 above.

PS: I speak from recent experience fighting Russet Mites. I used combos of all of the above and Forbid but no predator mites because usually you do not have time. You usually have introduce predator mites before you have a problem.

This guy uses 2 ozs of Rosemary oil, some Neem oil, a few drops of Dawn and water. Note this is for spider mites.

Canola oil. I have used this with spider mites. He uses a cup a gallon. I used about 4 table spoons and a few drops of Dawn soap in a gallon of water.
And no the canola oil will not clog the leaf stomata.

Much appreciated sir! Very informative.

 

[JSheeze]

Ok guys, here's some pics taken tonight, i have a scope and some cucumeris coming in the mail, should be here next week. In the meantime I was going to try to get the adults with some of the essential oil treatment suggested (rosemary, capsaicin, lavender, peppermint). And if I'm understanding correctly, h202 diluted can kill as well? Maybe alternate back and forth between the 2 before the predators get here.
Do I just mix the oils, with some Dawn and spray with a spray bottle? Could I get away with that? Just one plant. Also same technique but with h202?

The first bud I noticed with signs of dying pistils, and seems to be ground zero.

then it seems to spread along the first row..

Then a couple zoomed out views..


So all you experts, diagnose away! Haha

Also i seen to have noticed these yellow angular spots on some of the leaves, some light greening in the middle. The greening in the middle was about the same time I noticed the possible BM's. But it seems to have gradually lightened since I attempted to flush the soil. I haven't watered her in 2 days because her pot feels moist and the green spike reads 6-7/10 on the moisture scale?

Are these yellow angular spots that yellow spot virus or whatever? Water magnifying droplets after a foliar mist while lights on? Broad mites?

And then the lightening of green in the middle...


Any advice welcome, suggestions whatever! I'll have a scope soon enough, but until then what do the pics say?

That cucumeris is supposed to get the eggs and little guys, what do you recommend knocking the adults out with before I can release the baby killers? Lol

 

[Colo MMJ]

Ok guys, here's some pics taken tonight, i have a scope and some cucumeris coming in the mail, should be here next week. In the meantime I was going to try to get the adults with some of the essential oil treatment suggested (rosemary, capsaicin, lavender, peppermint). And if I'm understanding correctly, h202 diluted can kill as well? Maybe alternate back and forth between the 2 before the predators get here.
Do I just mix the oils, with some Dawn and spray with a spray bottle? Could I get away with that? Just one plant. Also same technique but with h202?

The first bud I noticed with signs of dying pistils, and seems to be ground zero.
View attachment 4039118
then it seems to spread along the first row..
View attachment 4039120 View attachment 4039121 View attachment 4039122
Then a couple zoomed out views..
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So all you experts, diagnose away! Haha

Also i seen to have noticed these yellow angular spots on some of the leaves, some light greening in the middle. The greening in the middle was about the same time I noticed the possible BM's. But it seems to have gradually lightened since I attempted to flush the soil. I haven't watered her in 2 days because her pot feels moist and the green spike reads 6-7/10 on the moisture scale?

Are these yellow angular spots that yellow spot virus or whatever? Water magnifying droplets after a foliar mist while lights on? Broad mites?
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And then the lightening of green in the middle...
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Any advice welcome, suggestions whatever! I'll have a scope soon enough, but until then what do the pics say?

That cucumeris is supposed to get the eggs and little guys, what do you recommend knocking the adults out with before I can release the baby killers? Lol

Get all your spraying done before predators arrive.

Picture number #1 at the very bottom - big leaf. I see the vein that runs down the middle of the leaf that transports water etc. It looks more brown then yellow-green. If it is brownish - russet mites. You need a microscope of cel phone camera microscope app to see russets mites. Spider mites can be seen if you have good eyes for a magnifying glass. Cheap magni glasses at Wal Mart, dollar store or better ones for cheap at Harbor Freight.

If you are foliar misting on the tops of the leaves - the only thing that works is translaminar pest control aka Forbid 4F, Avid, Floramite and a few others like Pylon, Sultan, etc. The safest of the bunch is Forbid 4f. Go to eBay and you can get 1 oz for $25 or 2 oz for about $40. It will last forever because you used 0.6 to 1.0 ml per gallon of water. Translaminar means it sinks into the leaf. I think spinosad is systemic so it gets in the plant. Capt Jacks from Bonide, Monterey made spinosad. Bonide told me it is not particularly effective with russets.

H2O2 or alcohol can work but you have to get under those leaves with the spray. Same thing with essential oils. A one gallon sprayer with a curved wand. I would water the soil or coco first before any spraying. After spraying let sit for 45 minutes then turn on the fans. I would turn off or dim the light until leaves are dry.

I specifically asked the people at Monterey, who make a broad range of pest control, about Russet Mites.
Bug O Buster rate would be one ounce per gallon of water; Horticultural oil is 5 tablespoons per gallon for the first application, and then 2-1/2 tablespoons per gallon after that.

Their flyer said Bug O Buster knocks em down (kills them) and Hort Oil keeps em down.

This guy uses natural liquid soap. Ivory white dish soap is $2.79 or so at Wal Mart. Also Bronners Lavender or Peppermint soap which is mostly oils works on spider mites. I have Bronners Pepermint soap and add about 10 drops of Peppermint oil in the 32 oz soap bottle so it has a lot of Peppermint oil. Bronners probably 2 tablespoons per gallon of water. Shake it up. Keep shaking all solutions during spraying. Some people like Lavender too. Essential oils supposedly attack the nervous system of mites as does Pyrethian. Pyrethian is dervice from Chrysanthemum flowers.

 

[NugHeuser]

Note that Forbid 4f is not instant. It takes a few days to kick in and do the job but it does work.

What do you have on the walls? Panda plastic, mylar, concrete? I would spray the walls and floors too. The people I have helped either had panda white plastic or mylar. I would spray high on the wall with those concoctions so that the liquid would come down the wall.

You might want to wipe down light fixtures (not the bulb obviously) with 40% rubbing alcohol and 60% water.

You could also spray everything with water and 91% rubbing alcohol. This site suggests a 50/50 mix. You might want to do 60 water and 40 alcohol. It will evaporate. Warning - You will need some for of ventilation because that alcohol is strong. Post harvest - I will spray 15% bleach and 85% water in a closed room but I get out fast. I will follow up with a alcohol spray too. Again - vapors can be bad for your lungs. .

https://www.getridofthings.com/pests/bugs/get-rid-of-spider-mites/

Another cheap and less toxic "spray everything" option is Hydrogen Peroxide. You can get about 32 ozs or 16 oz at Wal Mart for 0.88 cents. You probably want 60% or more of 3% hydrogen peroxide to water. So if you are doing a 1 gallon sprayer (128 oz) you need about three 0.88 cent bottles. It will kill spider mites but not the eggs. Add a little Neem oil for that.

You can go to a Sally Beauty Supply, where hair dressers shop, a get the 20% or 30% hydrogen peroxide for about $4.50 for 32 ozs. Tell them what you are looking for. They usually call it developer. This sh*t is really strong. Maybe 10% of that to 90% of water. Don't get it on your clothes or hands. This is what hairdressers use on platinum blondes.
Most hydroponic grow stores sell this too.

*** I would wet the plants soil before doing a alcohol or hydrogen peroxide "spray everything" treatment.
.
https://www.growerstrust.com/blogs/news/6810228-non-toxic-spider-mites-killer

You might want to go to Wal Mart and get the Rosemary oil add a few drops of soap and spray everything..
If you are still in veg you can due all the cheap stuff like Fels Naptha Soap and or Canola oil. Forbid 4F should do the job. Some people swear by spinosad but I have heard hit or miss.

You might also want to bomb the basement with Pyrethium Total Release or Pylon TR Release. Are you anywhere near a place that has a hyrdroponics or grow store? They sell this stuff plus other pest control places. I knew a flaky hippie grower that swore by the Pyrethium bombs and said it was safe for the plants. If you can close off the basement - you might want to bomb it. You will need to leave your house for 2 or 3 hours and then air things out. Beware if you have any gas pilot lights in the house. In the past, people in low income house had roaches and used Raid bug bombs. They had gas pilot lights and blew up apartments.
You could leave the windows open upstairs. Put a towel under basement door.

One of the smarter guys on here said the standard bug bombs for fleas work. They are cheaper but I would not use them. The Pyrethium bombs are sold at all grow stores. .

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https://www.google.com/search?q=pyrethrin+bug+bomb&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwitrvu9t6vXAhUIeCYKHSBCCdgQsxgILA&biw=1366&bih=651

The walls are a bit of everything. I have panda film covering a 4x9.5 grow area, inside of a 9x9.5 room, no windows. Upper half of the walls are drywall and painted, lower half is cheap fake wood paneling and carpeted floor. Next room over is the laundry area where I also sometimes work with my plants because there's more room(lst, adding organic fert, scoping for preflowers and pests), this area has painted drywall and linoleum floor with a big area rug, and then the main part of the basement (smaller basement, smaller house) is concrete floors and walls with some limestone walls as well. And the furnace sits in that concrete half of the basement. Which is also where I filter and build up water, ph it,ect. Also do the transplanting in this part of the basement and keep soil in this area.
Honestly the entire basement is probably contaminated which sucks ass.

I'm probably going to clean it up a bit, spray forbid and nuke em all over and then bomb it with what you recommended. HOWEVER- I do have two dogs that hangout with me in the basement from time to time. Is it okay to spray these things all over my basement and then bomb with pyrethium a day or so later and just keep the dogs out of the basement for those two days?

And my furnace is in that room so do I need to be sure that the pilot light isn't going before bombing?

And also, yes I have a near by garden store so they should have most of these things. Gotta watch what I say around there though because I'm not in a legal state.

 

[Colo MMJ]

The walls are a bit of everything. I have panda film covering a 4x9.5 grow area, inside of a 9x9.5 room, no windows. Upper half of the walls are drywall and painted, lower half is cheap fake wood paneling and carpeted floor. Next room over is the laundry area where I also sometimes work with my plants because there's more room(lst, adding organic fert, scoping for preflowers and pests), this area has painted drywall and linoleum floor with a big area rug, and then the main part of the basement (smaller basement, smaller house) is concrete floors and walls with some limestone walls as well. And the furnace sits in that concrete half of the basement. Which is also where I filter and build up water, ph it,ect. Also do the transplanting in this part of the basement and keep soil in this area.
Honestly the entire basement is probably contaminated which sucks ass.

I'm probably going to clean it up a bit, spray forbid and nuke em all over and then bomb it with what you recommended. HOWEVER- I do have two dogs that hangout with me in the basement from time to time. Is it okay to spray these things all over my basement and then bomb with pyrethium a day or so later and just keep the dogs out of the basement for those two days?

And my furnace is in that room so do I need to be sure that the pilot light isn't going before bombing?

And also, yes I have a near by garden store so they should have most of these things. Gotta watch what I say around there though because I'm not in a legal state.

Dr. Doom is a few bucks cheaper for fogger.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/HYDROFARM-Spider-Mite-Fogger-Indoor-5-5-oz/45859557?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=5227&adid=22222222227033268693&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=81761682489&wl4=aud-310687322322:pla-138660122649&wl5=9011842&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113836495&wl11=online&wl12=45859557&wl13=&veh=sem

You might want to check with the local furnace guy about the pilot light. If in doubt, don't bomb. Forbid 4f will take care of the plants but it takes time.

The essential oils and soaps with dogs is probably fine. Pyrethian, not sure.
I love dogs but dogs and cats in the grow will bring in bugs.; You go outside and walk around the yard may also bring in mites,. These little bastards get on everything. I would really try to keep the dogs out. I know.

One that I kind of like for every and even into flower is 1 gallon of water - half teaspoon of neem oil, teaspoon of Bronners Peppermint soap, 5 to 7 drops of Rosemary oil, a few drops of Dawn blue or Ivory dish soap, maybe a half teaspoon or less of Canola oil ($1.00 for 16 ozs at Wal Mart or any stores). If you have other essential oils like Peppermint, Lavender, Cinnamon - throw 4 or 5 drops in. The big 4 in order are Lavender, Rosemary, Peppermint and Cinnamon. Others that are also supposedly good are 4 parts Cedarwood/1 part Lemongrass oil. So probably 12 drops in a gallon of water of Cedar wood to 4 drops of Lemongras. I love the smell of Lemongrass.

If you are looking for top of the line products - this video is good. He talks about stuff like Grandevo or the new biological pesticides that use fungus, spores and other biological killers. The younger dude from Oregon highlights some of the newer top of the line stuff.

This guy Natty G is good for a laugh and he is always stoned or smoking in his videos but he is pretty sharp. Warning about the F word.
Sulfur - cheap and safe. Bonide makes it and he is saying it is good for russets
and well as spider mites.

Natty G again pointing out that everything has Peppermint oil in it. A really good MMJ bug killer is SNS 217 - which is mainly just Rosemary oil. So I always hammer em with Rosemary and Peppermint oil plus a few drops of soap. Say 10 drops of each ina gallon of water. If you have Neem oil, add half a teaspoon. Shake well and as you are spraying but you have to get under those leaves with the spray.

The Bronners I have is Peppermint oil but they also sell Lavender. I got a lot of what I do from this video. Citrus and other oils especially have something called limonene (sp?) and mites hate it. .

Just keep hammering them under the leaves and the areas around the plants - floors walls etc. Try to keep dogs out.