EB Series™ Gen 2 Build

[Randomblame]

I've just read the datasheet and I'm kind of confused in reading correctly this diagram:

View attachment 4058174

so, does this tell us that if, 1400ma, 20.5V are given, get a 200% Luminous Flux, so a 100% more, so double the flux at 700ma, 19.5V ? That would be a huge gain in lumens, double? am I right? cheers.

Would there be any cons?

Some math, don't know if I'm correct, few days in this led world and volt and amps etc etc.. so pardon me

1.4A x 20,5V = 28,7W double the lumens would be 2390 x 2 = 4780lm

4780lm / 28,7W = 166,5 lm/W so efficency drops but cost is great, for 7-8$ is a great price.

Can this be a good estimacy?

1. Yepp, LED's works this way.
2. You need better cooling at max. current. At least an aluminum C-channel while at nominal current no heatsink is required.
3. As I said in my post above, most users here drive the 2 and 4ft. strips at 1050mA or 150%.

 

[Randomblame]

The OP and I have 36" x 20" x 63" (90 x 50 x 160cm) tents. Thinking of 24 of the 280mm strips, 8 rows of three strips in line and possibly 4-8 strips vertically.

That's ~5ft², 150-200w should be sufficient. With 24 1footers in parallel and a HLG-185H-20A(10Amps) each strip would run at ~417mA for 200w total. Only 67mA above test current means still ~174lm/w or 52,5% efficiency(LER 331,66lm/w).

 

[dnt420]

1. Yepp, LED's works this way.
2. You need better cooling at max. current. At least an aluminum C-channel while at nominal current no heatsink is required.
3. As I said in my post above, most users here drive the 2 and 4ft. strips at 1050mA or 150%.

Am seeing you guys use u-channel o c-channel heatsink, so I get they're good, but what do you think about this type of heatsink?

Is this going to dissipate better? This is a 600x200x15mm that is in my list. Off course I want to get all the opinions before empty my pocket Hope to do a nice post where I show my build real soon.

 

[Randomblame]

Am seeing you guys use u-channel o c-channel heatsink, so I get they're good, but what do you think about this type of heatsink?

Is this going to dissipate better? This is a 600x200x15mm that is in my list. Off course I want to get all the opinions before empty my pocket Hope to do a nice post where I show my build real soon.

If you intend to glue the strips close together, then such a heat sink is securely useful. But if you want to distribute the stripes over a large area, c-channels are better. In any case, c-channels are cheaper and not worse.
I've made my own realy cheap, flat-style heatsink 2 years ago using an alu sheet and a few c-channels and he worked great.

 

[BuddyColas]

1. Yepp, LED's works this way.
2. You need better cooling at max. current. At least an aluminum C-channel while at nominal current no heatsink is required.
3. As I said in my post above, most users here drive the 2 and 4ft. strips at 1050mA or 150%.

But 1050ma is only 75% of max eh?

 

[Randomblame]

But 1050ma is only 75% of max eh?

Yeah, I said most users ... not all, eh!?
Better lifespan, better efficiency and they do not run so hot.
But of course you can also drive with 1.4A or even higher ...

 

[1212ham]

This 36" x 20" tent is an inconvenient size for strips! Here is a layout I came up with.

 

[Randomblame]

This 36" x 20" tent is an inconvenient size for strips! Here is a layout I came up with.

Looks good and will give you nice and even coverage!

 

[1212ham]

Thanks. I like the layout but it's a lot of wires for 150-200 watts. Does anyone know if there would significant voltage drop connecting three 1 foot strips end to end in parallel for my CV driver? I'm thinking they may have the same size copper traces as the 2 and 4 ft. strips so it would be just fine.

 

[1212ham]

I decided to change from 8 rows of strips to 6 and water cool it, just for fun. Someone has to be the first!
Some vertical strips will probably be added since it's easy with parallel wiring. They will hang naked with no heat sink, but passive or water tubes might be added latter.

 

[Randomblame]

I decided to change from 8 rows of strips to 6 and water cool it, just for fun. Someone has to be the first!
Some vertical strips will probably be added since it's easy with parallel wiring. They will hang naked with no heat sink, but passive or water tubes might be added latter.

Completely exaggerated, but sounds interesting...!
Count me in!

 

[1212ham]

Really, there's another water cooled strip build? I needed aluminum for the frame so I ordered 1/2" square tube, it will work with water or passively.
Also ordered 18 280mm strips and 4 560mm strips to go vertically in the corners, all 3500k. Digiky is still showing a12/23 ship date.

 

[Randomblame]

Nope, no water colled strip rigg untill now. Your's would be the first one! But I think it's not neccessary, because half of the heat is dissipated frontwise. But I can also imagine that you will see slightly better temps and effiency and 1-2% are 1-2%. Better efficiency always affects the yield in a positive way!
I like the idea of vertical strips in the corners and will probably doing the same. Have you seen @Hybridway 's ZunCloak thread? I'm thinking of building a vertical, double-sided "blade" and hanging them in the middle.
Man, these stripes are so versatile!!! I love them!

 

[dannykay]

Nope, no water colled strip rigg untill now.

Hey, you should check this thread by @T-Time, he did a great job with water cooling his vertical rig.
He has a few strips there, just not sure if those are water cooled.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/5x5-vertical-farming-hempy-bucket-led-grow.949945/

 

[Randomblame]

Yeah, I follow his thread since he started, but his rigg is COB based.
COB's needs a much better cooling solution and if you search the LED section you'll find a few guys who use watercooled COB's like @ttystikk for example.

 

[dannykay]

Yeah, I follow his thread since he started, but his rigg is COB based.
COB's needs a much better cooling solution and if you search the LED section you'll find a few guys who use watercooled COB's like @ttystikk for example.

Didn't remember if he water cooled the strips on the frame or not.

 

[Randomblame]

Didn't remember if he water cooled the strips on the frame or not.

Just copied from the opening post...

" So heres my setup:
-Seeds Royal Queen Critical
-Tent: 5x5 vertical flat plane
-18L air-pots
-Bio Bizz All Mix
-84L tote feeding 2 water rails holding about 3-5L each
- 20x COB CXB3590 DB 3500K water cooled <------------
- TD Silent 150mm fan
- Rihno Pro 150x600 carbon filter "

 

[T-Time]

No strips on my rig guys. Only 4 far red pucks from Rapid Led, but they are aluminium heatsink mounted leds that is sufficient to cool them on its own. I've only zip tied them to my water cooled rig so I wouldn't have to make a separate mounts.

Best cooling idea was shown by @Nofucksgiven (< if I remember correctly the nicknane). He mounted led on copper plate , mounted copper pipe to the back and connected hose to the pipe. This kind of fixture would be relatively light but I couldn't get copper plates/sheets cheap enough.

I never used the stripps before but as @Randomblame said before, I don't thing water cooling them is really needed.

 

[Observe & Report]

I'm doing a watercooled strip build in a brightly lit small cabinet that is stashed in a closet. Water cooling efficiently removes heat before it transfers into the air inside the cab and lets me transport it outside of the closet and into the room. I'm planning on insulating the exposed portions of the blocks and strips on either side of the leds with thin adhesive backed foam.

Vertical strips requires some thought to the routing of the water to avoid additional head pressure. You'd want to bring it up to the top only once then spit it with a manifold. Once you have multiple paths for the water I'd worry about uneven flow. It's more complicated than a straight shot through all of the blocks/tubing.

 

[ttystikk]

I'm doing a watercooled strip build in a brightly lit small cabinet that is stashed in a closet. Water cooling efficiently removes heat before it transfers into the air inside the cab and lets me transport it outside of the closet and into the room. I'm planning on insulating the exposed portions of the blocks and strips on either side of the leds with thin adhesive backed foam.

Vertical strips requires some thought to the routing of the water to avoid additional head pressure. You'd want to bring it up to the top only once then spit it with a manifold. Once you have multiple paths for the water I'd worry about uneven flow. It's more complicated than a straight shot through all of the blocks/tubing.

These are important concerns, I've dealt with each of them.