Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Do you think I could mount them directly to the frame? And how long are they?
New light or????
- Thread starter Gorillaglue4u
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Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
So glad Genetic Biology is canceled tomorrow. I can’t sleep for shit. This whole week was full of cancellations. Abnormal Psych, International Relations.. My Theater professor was the only one to hold class this week.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
If you measured with a par meter and take the highest spot reading it's not your average PPFD.
241w at 50% efficiency means around 120PAR/w x ~4,85μMol/j(3500°k) means ~580μMol/s PPF divided by 0,5m² means ~1160μMol/s/0,5m².
But 20% is lost on the walls and height, so your average should be ~930μMol/s/m².
Not far away from what you say, but if you really want to measure your average PPFD, you will not come around to create a PAR map. So divide your area into multiple fields(the more the better) and calculate by many spot measurements the average.
That's the only way to get real average PPFD values.. and the best tool to measure it is a spectro-geniometer.
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Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Also, using angelina reflectors, if that factors in for anything. But yeah, even still, that is an acceptable PPFD. Thank you.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
A QB288 and a 4ft. double row F-strips both have 288 LM561c diodes. Same effiency but strips are cheaper (~50$ vs.75$)
Flagg420
Well-Known Member
I still dont wanna learn the LED world, and would rather it had another year or two to really peak.... but I am highly considering dropping my 2 1000w HPS mag ballasts and switching everything over to CMH.... I am liking everything the one I have is doing for me so far, may make it my new standard, saving on cooling, and giving me more light coverage for less wattage used.... can have 6 of 'em, and be under 2k... (If I didnt double bulb, etc)
Dunno, few more weeks will make me more sure, but I definitely will be replacing my MH 600w's in the veg room with a pair of 315CMH in their place... I'm @ 3 patients, so I got a little wiggle room to play, lol
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
I’m probably going to roll with the F-strips and mount them plus another driver to my frame.
Thank you for being cool. I wasn’t trying to be a smartass, and I’m certainly not afraid to admit when I’m wrong. I wasn’t wrong regarding what Nx was talking about, it was just relative to the size of my grow, and not according to “standard dimensions.”
I understand that a 600w HPS would put out more than 1200PPFD in a half meter, which is what I was saying all along: It’s relative. As long as I have my PPFD to the maximum intensity in my grow space (900-1200 PPFD; more than that can hinder the plant) I am where I need to be. I’m not retarded. I’m not looking to start shit, either, and I love to learn. It’s kind of hard to do that when you have a stalker following you around, trying to suck your dick.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
4 double row 4ft. or 8 double row 2ft. strips and an HLG-240H-48A would be really efficient. The driver has 5,2A so each strip would run at 1,3A, which means the diodes gets around 72mA(16s18p). This push them into the 185lm/w zone which means ~2,7μMol/J!
Top notch would I say! And I promise you, you will not exchange them again ... only with even better strips, LOL!
Top notch would I say! And I promise you, you will not exchange them again ... only with even better strips, LOL!
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Can you give me the model number for the 2ft.? This is probably the route I’d go. And how do I mount them?
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
I would rather take two HLG-550's to replace 2000w HPS. Even more savings than 6 CMH and still more usable light. Only my 2ct.'s..
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
I can give you a direct link to all available F-Series strips, mate..
https://www.digikey.de/products/de/optoelectronics/led-lighting-cobs-engines-modules/111?k=&pkeyword=&v=1510&s=56498&FV=ffe0006f&mnonly=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25
I recommend aluminum c-channels(1x2x1", 1/8 or 1/16thick), call the next scrap yard or the next metal store. You can get them pretty cheap, with a bit luck for a kiloprice base on the scrap yard.
No thermal grease needed, you can screw them directly to the metal because of the low thermal pressure or use some double sided thermal tape to avoid drill and taping holes.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Use awg18 single core wire to wire the strips in parallel. No need to solder anything, each strip has two pairs of poke-in connectors, pretty easy.
My next build will use 1440 diodes(20 single row 2footers) and 8 CRI90 COB's(Blux V18c, gen.7) and here is the only thing that I find disappointing with strips, they do not exist in CRI90. So I have to mix strips and COB's to get both CRI's.
My next build will use 1440 diodes(20 single row 2footers) and 8 CRI90 COB's(Blux V18c, gen.7) and here is the only thing that I find disappointing with strips, they do not exist in CRI90. So I have to mix strips and COB's to get both CRI's.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
They come with a heavy blister to avoid damage..
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Thanks! I know just who to ask!
nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
I used to think that way too. But it is simply not the way it works.
Chip Green
Well-Known Member
Okay, so maybe I am not fully understanding correctly the true definition light penetration....
I'm using pretty much bush league observation, and tools, to figure what my idea of penetration is.
The only thing I have to get an idea of "levels" of light is a cheapo Dr. Meter LUX device.
How about this for an analogy, COBS produce large "rain drops" of light, and the strips are making a "mist"....? So the actual amount of light particles reaching the lower areas can be increased by spraying the photons rather than an heavy stream?
I'm using pretty much bush league observation, and tools, to figure what my idea of penetration is.
The only thing I have to get an idea of "levels" of light is a cheapo Dr. Meter LUX device.
How about this for an analogy, COBS produce large "rain drops" of light, and the strips are making a "mist"....? So the actual amount of light particles reaching the lower areas can be increased by spraying the photons rather than an heavy stream?
Humple
Well-Known Member
To my layman's mind, that actually sounds like a good analogy. The LED veterans here could tell us if it actually is though! However it's explained, I believe those who argue for diffusion as the true "penetration", because I've seen it in my own plants.
GrowLightResearch
Well-Known Member
I thought it was legitimate for @Olive Drab Green to want a PPFD measurement. Now I wonder. What does he not know about PPFD? Why was a PPFD measurement not relevant?
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
I don’t even know what you’re talking about, but I’m not reengaging someone who just spent the night getting told he was wrong by everyone else in a pointless debate.
Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Literally, everything they are asserting is simply theory. The sun has no trouble penetrating to lower nodes, and my COBs have never failed to have dense, trichome-crusted nugs to the bottom. It sounds good on paper, and I might believe it works for some, but LED panels had multiple smaller light sources, too, and you were left with larf. It’s why I switched to COBs to begin with. Because I could see the difference in the first three days.
If what they are saying is true, my COBs couldn’t possibly perform as they do, and neither could the Sun, because it’s a single, powerful light source, so it can’t possibly get through the canopy with all the leaves in the way, blocking out the Sun by facing the same direction at once, right? Get the fuck out of here.
Leaves are meant to face a single light source. It’s what’s been going on for millions of years here on Earth. The trees have done fine, I’m sure I will be, too.
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