Dstroy's NEW grow journal

SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
dstroy said:
Started with 6, 4 were dudes. Two in the flower tent, cloned them. Experimenting with keeping small mother plants in dirt.
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No word back from the "fem" seed provider then.



Enjoy that humble pie I guess.








No seriously fuck the fuckin fuckers.
 
dstroy

dstroy

Well-Known Member
3/18/18

Day 7 of flowering for the grape ape

Got the mother light set up and planted my first plant ever into dirt. These are my “experiment” so it’s ok if I mess them up a bit.

I transplanted them from the cloner into the pot and watered RO with cal mag at pH 6.2 until water started coming out the bottom, or about 3/4 of a small solo cups worth of water for the 4” square pot. I tried to spread it around to get all of the dirt wet.

I’ve read that with ffof plants can go about a month before needing to be fed the first time?
 

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SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
dstroy said:
3/18/18

Day 7 of flowering for the grape ape

Got the mother light set up and planted my first plant ever into dirt. These are my “experiment” so it’s ok if I mess them up a bit.

I transplanted them from the cloner into the pot and watered RO with cal mag at pH 6.2 until water started coming out the bottom, or about 3/4 of a small solo cups worth of water for the 4” square pot. I tried to spread it around to get all of the dirt wet.

I’ve read that with ffof plants can go about a month before needing to be fed the first time?
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You'll need to up pot of course, and it may take a bit for it to recover, but a 3 gal should probably be able to get through a month, but its probaby a good idea ramp into the feeding and not wait for a deffecieny to show. Ffof is decently bufferd but even with (ahhem), soil its still a good idea to keep pH in check. Other than that I find at this stage pot weight is the best way to judge water need.

Good luck.
 
dstroy

dstroy

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
You'll need to up pot of course, and it may take a bit for it to recover, but a 3 gal should probably be able to get through a month, but its probaby a good idea ramp into the feeding and not wait for a deffecieny to show. Ffof is decently bufferd but even with (ahhem), soil its still a good idea to keep pH in check. Other than that I find at this stage pot weight is the best way to judge water need.

Good luck.
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Thanks for the advice man, I have really no clue about dirt stuff at all.

They’re going to be bonsai moms. They are going to be in small pots forever on purpose. I don’t need big mother plants since I only need 1-4 cuts every whenever I want to run the strain.


https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=31919
 
dstroy

dstroy

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
I didn't catch that part, jsb99 recently went through an attempt at this. For one reason or another tho I think he decided to flower them out and restart with new clones. Here's the thread

https://www.rollitup.org/t/bonsai-mums-help-needed.956893/

Dirt is dead, soil is alive, plants won't grow in dirt, but it is funny how I end up with dirt under my fingernails after working with soil.:bigjoint:
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lol I wear gloves, don’t want to cross contaminate the cloner or main res. Super paranoid about bringing soil in the room in the first place.

I read through that thread not too long ago, got some good takeaways from it. Thanks @JSB99

I’ve gotta try and keep these mom plants small because I really don’t have anywhere else for them, just no space. And I want to keep some of these genetics that I’ll be running. Going to finish out this pack of humble pie after the grape ape and hopefully find a badass plant to keep around.

When I do start feeding it’ll be light, prolly 1tsp calmag and some veg fert per gallon. I’ve got them under a warm light hoping that I can get the nodes to stretch a bit because I think that will make it easier to maintain and give me a good length of stem to dip in my rooting hormone. Nearly all of the plants I’ve grown have been really squat and tight spaced. But that’ll be whenever these things start growing again after they get out of transplant shock or whatever it’s called. We’ll see how it goes lol I’m just along for the ride.
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Good idea to glove up, I do when working with green manures, ferments, and soil batching (if I remember), and pesticides. I like calcium nitrate, 2 birds one stone, a good micro nutrient and a dash of bloom ferts should cover the bases.

The following statement is based on others reports about ffof though I can confirm I did have fungus gnats when using it. Since I stoped using it, others have reported ffof used thripes to combat the fungus gnat issue, I have zero confirmation of this but do know a mix of de and perilite (gnat nix ismjust perilite) as a mulch will either reduce or eliminate the population, or effectively contain both. Plus de is source of silica which if keeping a bonsai mom in the same pot for years will eventually be a needed ammendment or fertilizer.

Benificial microbes are good regardles but can be of particular value to minimze impacts of stressors, particularly in transplant. These things live in the soil/root interface and dusting the roots with microbes (MYKEs, renew, roots organics, IMO pick a brand with a wide spectrum and go with it), during transplant can help with the shock regardless of if using salt based or organic ferts.

Opinion based on a combination of facts and experience.

Edit LED or t5 for light?
 
dstroy

dstroy

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
Good idea to glove up, I do when working with green manures, ferments, and soil batching (if I remember), and pesticides. I like calcium nitrate, 2 birds one stone, a good micro nutrient and a dash of bloom ferts should cover the bases.

The following statement is based on others reports about ffof though I can confirm I did have fungus gnats when using it. Since I stoped using it, others have reported ffof used thripes to combat the fungus gnat issue, I have zero confirmation of this but do know a mix of de and perilite (gnat nix ismjust perilite) as a mulch will either reduce or eliminate the population, or effectively contain both. Plus de is source of silica which if keeping a bonsai mom in the same pot for years will eventually be a needed ammendment or fertilizer.

Benificial microbes are good regardles but can be of particular value to minimze impacts of stressors, particularly in transplant. These things live in the soil/root interface and dusting the roots with microbes (MYKEs, renew, roots organics, IMO pick a brand with a wide spectrum and go with it), during transplant can help with the shock regardless of if using salt based or organic ferts.

Opinion based on a combination of facts and experience.

Edit LED or t5 for light?
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I sprinkled some soil on the roots before placing them in their pots to make sure I didn’t have any air pockets which I read can cause problems. I’m sure I’ll get a system down that works for me. There’s a lot more info about soil growing compared to HPA, and it pays to learn from other people so that’s what I’ve been doing, just bee boppin around and picking up as much info as I could.

It’s one of the horticulture lighting groups hlg65
Quantum board thing, currently it’s about 20” above those plants. There’s a t5 over my cloner which is right next to them on the shelf.

I’ve got BTi if I get gnats, already dealt with them before no sweat. The thing I’m scared about are spider mites mostly cause idk wtf to do if that happens.

I guess I’ll toss up a sticky trap today to see if I get anything in the next few days.

Do you think it’s alright if I keep the soil in a bucket as long as I don’t seal the lid and stir it every now and then?
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Should be good, you dont want it to fully dry out, so you may want to close the lid and just poke a few holes in it, turing every few months or whenever you take new clones.

Although I sucessfully used a combo of de, spino, permetryn and insecticide soap, for one instance of mites and a homade brew of neem, capcasin, insecticide soap, and applications of isopropyl alcohol for another, and though I have not used it, I'll reach for Forbid and apply the de/perilite mix if I ever see them again. I think both times they came from the hydro store since then anything I buy from a hydro store gets sprayed with bleach, I even washed my last batch of perilite in bleach, issue hasnt returned.

With the QB you might have to raise it even higher to get the strech you want. With 60w of cob I have to be over 2.5 feet to keep them from being too compact.
 
dstroy

dstroy

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
Should be good, you dont want it to fully dry out, so you may want to close the lid and just poke a few holes in it, turing every few months or whenever you take new clones.

Although I sucessfully used a combo of de, spino, permetryn and insecticide soap, for one instance of mites and a homade brew of neem, capcasin, insecticide soap, and applications of isopropyl alcohol for another, and though I have not used it, I'll reach for Forbid and apply the de/perilite mix if I ever see them again. I think both times they came from the hydro store since then anything I buy from a hydro store gets sprayed with bleach, I even washed my last batch of perilite in bleach, issue hasnt returned.

With the QB you might have to raise it even higher to get the strech you want. With 60w of cob I have to be over 2.5 feet to keep them from being too compact.
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Thanks man, I hope I never have to deal with them, don't go to the hydro store and don't let anyone in that room. Get all my genetics from seeds because there really isn't a "reliable" source here or people want to charge stupid prices lol some dude was like $50/clone for widespread genetics, the dispensary only does clones a couple times a year and they're stupid prices too for ??? genetics...I don't trust those fucks. I've decided to stay away from caregiver groups to minimize my presence. Even though we are totally legal I don't want any attention outside family and friends.
 
dstroy

dstroy

Well-Known Member
Still using 6g/gal megacrop and mammoth p only

I top up the res daily and when the ppm drops below 500 I change it. I can't wait to find out if these grape ape herm or not because if they don't I'm cutting down the giant BB I have in my veg tent and that'll save me from doing so many changes.
 
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