Samsung F Series LED Strip Build for a 3x3' (links for ALL parts inc.)

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yeah! Most probably you use cuttings, right?! Cuttings goes much faster into flowering as seed based plants, especially when the mother/genetic is already a few month or more old.
Potency also get better over time..
My seed based BlueDream shows the first pistels yesterday which was day 9. The cuttings next to her starts flowering already at day 5.

My plants were in full flower within about 2 or 3 days... I have pics up in another thread following the grow as it progresses through flowering.
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
Yeah! Most probably you use cuttings, right?! Cuttings goes much faster into flowering as seed based plants, especially when the mother/genetic is already a few month or more old.
Potency also get better over time..
My seed based BlueDream shows the first pistels yesterday which was day 9. The cuttings next to her starts flowering already at day 5.
Interesting. I never grow from clones because I dont have room to keep any, and the shit you buy from a dispensary are all infested with every bug I can think of.

My plants tend to flip into flower very quickly too though, they'll be stretching to the stars in 1-3 days after flipping. Ive been seeing bud/pistil formation around 9 days into bloom in my last few plants ive grown too, which is great. My ladies are always fully mature and perky as can be before I flip them though.


I do have to wonder what IR even does for initiating bloom? Does it flip them into the flower mode (stretching) faster or does it cause buds to appear earlier on?
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
I didn't control night time temps so mine also stretched the first two weeks.
Seems to be at a stable height now after 3 weeks.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Interesting. I never grow from clones because I dont have room to keep any, and the shit you buy from a dispensary are all infested with every bug I can think of.

My plants tend to flip into flower very quickly too though, they'll be stretching to the stars in 1-3 days after flipping. Ive been seeing bud/pistil formation around 9 days into bloom in my last few plants ive grown too, which is great. My ladies are always fully mature and perky as can be before I flip them though.


I do have to wonder what IR even does for initiating bloom? Does it flip them into the flower mode (stretching) faster or does it cause buds to appear earlier on?
Nope, it's not much faster but it can be used to shortening blooming or to increase the daylength.

I use IR/730nm mainly to increase my light regime to 13,5/10,5h (=higher DLI=more bud, from week 3 - end of week 7) but it can also reduce the whole flowering time by a week when you stay with 12/12h all the time.

Fast finisher like most indikas benefit less from EOD threadment as long blooming sativas, so expect less than a week shortening for most indikas and more than a week for sativas. First two and the last few weeks I stay with 12/12h sometime less for the last few.

We have a thread about far-red and how to use it.

Short version is,

EOD-threadment with far-red triggers phytochrome far-red (or PhyFr) and that puts the plants faster/immediately into "night mode". This usually takes up to 2 hours without far-red and this 2h can be used to increase the light regime to up to 14/10h without the risk that the plants switch back into vegetative mode.

It is usefull when you want to increase your DLI without buying a new or additional lights. If you get 30Mol/d with 12/12 it would be 35Mol/d with 14/10h or 16,66% more light.

You need usually 2000-4000μMol for EOD threatment. More far-red would cause unwanted stretching or a reaction called SAS or shade avoidance syndrome and you really don't want it in your garden.

My 6 XP-E's are getting 300mA so 6x 1,9v x 0,3A= ~3,4w and they are ~45% efficient @300mA. That's ~1,37PAR/w.

Far-red has usually a QER of >5,5μMol/J so I get at least 7,5μMol/s PPF. My area is 10ft² or 0,933m² so I calculate with 1m² to keep it simple and use 7,5μMol/s/m² as PPFD.

4000μMol are needed so I need to devide that by 7,5μMol/s. That's 533sec or ~8min53sec.

Based on this calculation the duration of EOD-threadment should be 5-10min to get the desired 2000-4000μMol. Most peeps use it 5 mins before and after the mainlight switch off.
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
Nope, it's not much faster but it can be used to shortening blooming or to increase the daylength.

I use IR/730nm mainly to increase my light regime to 13,5/10,5h (=higher DLI=more bud, from week 3 - end of week 7) but it can also reduce the whole flowering time by a week when you stay with 12/12h all the time.

Fast finisher like most indikas benefit less from EOD threadment as long blooming sativas, so expect less than a week shortening for most indikas and more than a week for sativas. First two and the last few weeks I stay with 12/12h sometime less for the last few.

We have a thread about far-red and how to use it.

Short version is,

EOD-threadment with far-red triggers phytochrome far-red (or PhyFr) and that puts the plants faster/immediately into "night mode". This usually takes up to 2 hours without far-red and this 2h can be used to increase the light regime to up to 14/10h without the risk that the plants switch back into vegetative mode.

It is usefull when you want to increase your DLI without buying a new or additional lights. If you get 30Mol/d with 12/12 it would be 35Mol/d with 14/10h or 16,66% more light.

You need usually 2000-4000μMol for EOD threatment. More far-red would cause unwanted stretching or a reaction called SAS or shade avoidance syndrome and you really don't want it in your garden.

My 6 XP-E's are getting 300mA so 6x 1,9v x 0,3A= ~3,4w and they are ~45% efficient @300mA. That's ~1,37PAR/w.

Far-red has usually a QER of >5,5μMol/J so I get at least 7,5μMol/s PPF. My area is 10ft² or 0,933m² so I calculate with 1m² to keep it simple and use 7,5μMol/s/m² as PPFD.

4000μMol are needed so I need to devide that by 7,5μMol/s. That's 533sec or ~8min53sec.

Based on this calculation the duration of EOD-threadment should be 5-10min to get the desired 2000-4000μMol. Most peeps use it 5 mins before and after the mainlight switch off.
Good shit dude, thanks for the summary. Now you got me thinking....
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
Just posting this light I just made, expect to see a lot more from me in the coming weeks as I get my strawberry banana seeds in and grow em under this bad boy. Plan to run Nectar for the Gods as well :)

The goal of this light was to strive for insanely good uniformity to help with canopy penetration and prevent any kind of light stress/burning from being too close (a common problem with fewer sources of more powerful lights).

What do ya'll think? I gotta clean up some of the wiring, but it's pretty much all complete.

Tent temps max out at 79f (74f ambient) and the temp of the strips is 45-50C measured directly center of the strips.

SPECS:
View attachment 4106859 View attachment 4106861
This rocks! Coverage area? 4x4?
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Did you split your one footers in half?

If so thanks for showing :)

Im going to be doing an f strip build sometime soon

Didnt know you could cut them :)
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Are you referring to mine? Mine are the 22" single row strips and no they aren't split.
Yes sorry the first pic looked like the ends where added on my bad if not im an led noob lol

What are the dark spots on the lights a few inches in from each end
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
Yes sorry the first pic looked like the ends where added on my bad if not im an led noob lol

What are the dark spots on the lights a few inches in from each end
The wires going in the poke in connectors. Some people don't like that and they just solder the ends. I like their convenience though.
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
Just posting this light I just made, expect to see a lot more from me in the coming weeks as I get my strawberry banana seeds in and grow em under this bad boy. Plan to run Nectar for the Gods as well :)

The goal of this light was to strive for insanely good uniformity to help with canopy penetration and prevent any kind of light stress/burning from being too close (a common problem with fewer sources of more powerful lights).

What do ya'll think? I gotta clean up some of the wiring, but it's pretty much all complete.

Tent temps max out at 79f (74f ambient) and the temp of the strips is 45-50C measured directly center of the strips.

SPECS:
View attachment 4106859 View attachment 4106861
How cool does this nice rig run versus say HPS? Thanks.
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
How cool does this nice rig run versus say HPS? Thanks.
Well a watt is a watt. Even though the efficiency of this rig is much higher than HPS, that just means more energy is being turned into photons. However, each watt still puts off the same heat. Since these LEDs don't put out much IR though, it's a bit cooler watt for watt than an HPS. So somewhere inbetween the heat of a 250w hps and a 400w hps. It's more than manageable though, much cooler than running a 600w hps that it replaces.

I'm getting my lux meter tomorrow so ill map out a converted PPFD chart for yall.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
How cool does this nice rig run versus say HPS? Thanks.

You could replace 1000w HPS with 600-700w strips, so 300w less heat to handle.
On the other hand you will safe a lot on AC because you need ambient temps between 82-86°F to get the most out of your plants. LED radiates less heat/IR and you need higher ambient temps to get the same leaf temps like with HPS.
That means you save twice, 1. less watt for light and 2. less watt for environmental control.
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
So would i get the best of both worlds if i bang out a de hps setup up high in the middle of the room
Then supplement it with f strips all around ?

Gavita provides ir led provides extra light?
Would i be able to grow at 75 degress then as i like to grow cold
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
I'd cover more floor space, run a cheap wall panel heater of a few hundred Watts as needed.
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Id rather burn the watts in light rather then a heater that i dont need (but have sitting in the corner for emergency)
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
If you fill a room with LEDs, you won't need a heater though, only if you have like a few hundred Watts in there and it gets cold.

My 8000BTU aircon couldn't keep up with the COBs on my previous run.
 
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