How often do you encounter nutrient issues?

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
That's exactly when my issues hit.. almost to the T is week 3
Amino acid will help with the calcium uptake. Try it next time about once every couple of weeks. I thought amino aid was a decent product. Adding microbes would help some too.
 

Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
Okay so what I'm saying is you feed veg nutes in veg, then when you switch to 12/12 you feed transition nutes, and then after 2 weeks to a month, depending on how the plant is reacting you switch to your flowering nutes

.. what I suspect you're doing is changing to flowering nutes too soon?
 

SchweeDubz

Well-Known Member
what do you recommend for microbes and amino acids? how much could ppm be apart of this? im pretty surr chicago tap water is some of the hardest water in the us
 

Bernie420

Well-Known Member
what do you recommend for microbes and amino acids? how much could ppm be apart of this? im pretty surr chicago tap water is some of the hardest water in the us
I do NOT like the great white for a microbe product. I do like the raw brand microbe for veg and bloom (separate products) I do like the amino aid from soul synthetics (I think) arura inovations // I forget.

Cant comment on the calcium with the tap water in chicago but you dont know it might be the cleanest water on the planet. I doubt it though. I think your under feeding it. Did you say you weren't adding microbes? Do you know what microbes do in the plant world??

I cant remember all the to much of this locks out that, kind of things.

I dont grow in dirt I do hydro but some guys were saying to me that amino acid in hydro was dumb or pointless, but I dont get calcium deficiency but we'll see cuz im going to stop using amino acid not cuz what they said but cuz i'm a cheap ass broke mfer.
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
as often as i fuck up and do something wrong.
if you're providing good conditions and feeding good nutes, you should have very few problems.
if you're having constant problems using well established products, chances are, it's you. you need to figure out what it is you're doing wrong, or you'll never quit doing it.
could be something as simple as a meter being off, could be a fundamental problem in your room design, could be a lot of things, you have to figure out what it is.
This^^^ all frikin day this. Spot on. I know he's not offering any kind of solution but this is 99% of the time..the problem. Grower error. Get a solid reliable pH and Ec/tds meter as well. And make sure its cleaned and calibrated before use. I suggest the Bluelab Combo meter. For any indoor grower no matter the substrate...this tool is invaluable. I know they say checking pH and ppm runoff isn't very accurate and technically it's not...but if you use the same meter and keep checking input water/feed solution up top before...and output runoff down below after...you will notice a pattern. And it's this pattern that gives you huge eyeballs on what's going on down below in the rhizosphere root zone.
 
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Bernie420

Well-Known Member
This^^^ all frikin day this. Spot on. I know he's not offering any kind of solution but this is 99% of the time..the problem. Grower error. Get a solid reliable pH and Ec/tds meter as well. And make sure its cleaned and calibrated before use. I suggest the Bluelab Combo meter. For any indoor grower no matter the substrate...this tool is invaluable.
YUP
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
You watch the harley smith videos on plant nutrition on the youtube. good to watch if you havent.
Yes those vids are kick ass. I've known Mr. Smith for a long long time. His wife is cool as hell too. He works for NPK Industries now but for the longest time he worked for SGS/Hydrodynamic International in Lansing Michigan. The makers of the popular Ionic one part nutrient here in the States. One cool cat and a walking encyclopedia of indoor grow room knowledge. Back in the nineties I would drive all the way down to East Lansing when I had the time just to pick his brain. He had a way of talking about indoor hydroponics and gardening in general that just made a would be grower just shut up and listen.
 
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Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Sure but the Elite nutrients grow chart says to add the nutes then ph between 6.1-6.2. I'm not sure if I should still be factoring in the FF soil past the 4-6 weeks.
FFOF is prebuffered to 6.3 out of the bag , so you should be fine. When I used it , it began to exhaust about the 2/3 week of flower .... Scratched in Happy Frog Fruit and Veg to topsoil .....POOF ! ....back on track.

IMO FFOF is more nitro heavy than anything else ..., oh yeah add at least 35% more perlite to it for more aeration and drainage.
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
I never have nutrient issues. But hey, I keep it simple and just feed what the plant needs. I don't use any fancy labeled additives with snazzy names or vitamins, amino acids, etc... Calcium nitrate, micro nutrients, monopotassium phosphate and a little potassium sulphate a few weeks into flower. That's it. No nutrient issues whatsoever. Beautiful healthy plants from seed to harvest.
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
Pretty simple and won't break the bank ..

View attachment 4124823

Full of mycos .... And other goodies.
If yer growing in peat based soilless mixes...this brand is pretty foolproof. I like thier Light Warrior still to this day for getting seedlings and younglings off to a healthy start. I grow in coco coir and rockwool pretty exclusively these days but when I germinate seeds (hardly ever - I like running cuttings for consistency)... that Light Warrior and Happy Frog is pretty hard to beat.
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
Pretty simple and won't break the bank ..

View attachment 4124823

Full of mycos .... And other goodies.
That looks like some decent stuff. I was just reading the ingredients. If I didn't feel the need to reinvent the wheel I would use it. I'm doing some organic soil grows and bought a dozen boxes of amendments to make my own supersoil. I like mixing my own things. But if I didn't I would definitely use that product.
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
Idk.... I dont know much about nutrient ratios but I do know I want my K higher than my P. My plants told me that.
Definitely want P to be lower than the other 2. Especially in indoor plants in containers(pots) or hydropnically fed. The high phosphorus was really meant for outdoor ag crops in the dirt. It's easily washed out/leeched from corn and soy type ag crop soils and farmers have to amend heavily at start of season. For some reason the indoor cannabis industry took this as gospel in the early days and ran with it. Come to find out...its a whole different story about phosphorus and container/indoor plants. Seems that phosphorus kinda stays put in those setups. Even with non recovery drain to waste open operations. What's important...whether mineral salt fertilizer or organic inputs/amended soils is to keep the potassium to nitrogen ratios roughly 2:1. This isn't concrete. And very grower/setup/strain dependent but it's a general guide.
 
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