QB324 Warning

Bubblin

Well-Known Member
One of the interesting things we've found is that the extra red makes a difference in veg, as well as obviously flower. The 4000K strips have been vegging better than the 5000k without any real additional stretch, which surprised me. I guessed they would grow faster, but thought they might stretch more.
I found the same thing, and I was actually after more stretch via a lower k lmao. More stretch allows me to LST a bit more often n it's much easier to hook on to a branch for lst when the node spacing isn't like 8mm. But I ended up with very little if any additional stretch lol.

Currently running 2700k V1 qb132's @ 1050ma, and 3000k citizen cobs, all @ 80cri, tho the cobs are kicking ass over veggies atm lol. Been contemplating some 2700k qb's @ 90CRI, so far the added reds seem sexy af for my grow style, n I still want more stretch dammit. :bigjoint:
 

Bubblin

Well-Known Member
I was looking at something like this at one point for my flowering room, though they never seemed to be in stock when I wanted them - 2K Nichias: https://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut3318

Still hard to go wrong with Samsung strips, especially for vweg
My only gripe with the f-strips/hinflux stips is they all seem to need coolers. Are there versions that don't?

I'm cheap lol. 4x qb132 = $133
@ 1050ma = no heatsink required n 4 boards = a lot of coverage.
 

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Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Do you mean passive or active coolers? I run strips on 3mm aluminium u-channel (40mm x 25mm x 3mm) and it works fine as a heat-sink - even here in Australia where it's bloody hot! U-channel is usually pretty cheap from your local hardware store - just cut, drill and screw it together.

This was my first effort - hence spaghetti wires (though it's still going strong). 5000K double-row F-strips
Vegstripback.jpg

LEDtop.jpg
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
I think you hit on it with the stability bit - unlike boards, they can be a bit floppy without some sort of backing. Makes sense from both points of view (stability/heat) to mount them on some type of ally, be it U-channel or flat panel (3mm). I have some flat-panel aluminium, but haven't tried it yet. I like U-channel because it allows air to circulate. Flat panel might be more reflective, but I'm not sure about (reflective) hot spots or trapping heat underneath, depending on size of the panel.
 

Humple

Well-Known Member
I mean 0 cooler requirements, minimal framing/mounting for stability only. ;)

Nice light btw.
While strips are certainly the best option on a price-to-performance basis (though I hear the prices are going up), for simplicity and ease of construction, I don't know if you can beat QB120s or QB132s.
 

ganjamystic

Well-Known Member
If you have purchased any QB324 boards from HLG and have used the supplied screws without nylon washers, then you may be in for a nasty shock - quite literally!
is this an issue with the V1 (lm561c) qbs as well? I have 14 V1 boards total (some qb288 and some qb304). none came with washers. they all came with the black screws, which is what I used (except for one kit that came with no screws.. for that, I used similar screws I picked up from the hardware store). none of my boards fit completely flush with the heatsinks, they all have small gaps from being slightly warped and/or having scuffs and scratches on the back (the way they came..) I haven't experienced any shorts that I know of or had any boards not light up, but I've never checked for burn marks around the screws either... I'm nervous now.. need to go check..
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
My only gripe with the f-strips/hinflux stips is they all seem to need coolers. Are there versions that don't?

I'm cheap lol. 4x qb132 = $133
@ 1050ma = no heatsink required n 4 boards = a lot of coverage.
WIth the F strips, I wouldn't say they need coolers as much as something with structural integrity.... i.e. you don't want droopy strips.
I think even with no "heatsinking" they are unlikely to go into the area of operation where anything is going to break at standard test current.

I use a very light gauge U channel. standard L and U channel is usualy too thick (for weight and price).
 

robincnn

Well-Known Member
Earlier we thought the issue was only with QB 324 in 320W kit.
However we saw similar issue with single QB 324 light engines too.
Since them we have reduced QB 324 prices and we have been adding Nylon washers to all orders recently.

All QB 324 without optics require Nylon washers.
Nylon washers not required when optics is used.

OP i apologize for any inconvenience caused due to this
If your order was missing Nylon washers or you had damage to board due to short, email HLG and we will send washers and replace board if any damage or refund order
 
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OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
The real question is who the hell designed a board with juice flowing under a mounting screw location?? :dunce:
Even a china pub such as this avoids such issues

s-l1600.jpg
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
Yikes, serious safety issue, especially with multiple boards affected....... this needs to be addressed asap. Tightening (within reason) an included screw should not short, ever.

You did the right thing with this psa....
Would plastic washers be better?
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Earlier we thought the issue was only with QB 324 in 320W kit.
However we saw similar issue with single QB 324 light engines too.
Since them we have reduced QB 324 prices and we have been adding Nylon washers to all orders recently.

All QB 324 without optics require Nylon washers.
Nylon washers not required when optics is used.

OP i apologize for any inconvenience caused due to this
If your order was missing Nylon washers or you had damage to board due to short, email HLG and we will send washers and replace board if any damage or refund order
robin, I appreciate you addressing this safety issue, but apart from the fact you guys clearly knew about this problem when you sent out the boards - not just to me, but many others - I have two concerns here:

Firstly, your company informed me I did not need to use washers even after I specifically contacted you about it. I have all the emails. You need to better inform your staff.

Secondly, Stephenj had already offered to send me washers if I emailed or pmed with my order number. However, when I did email your company about the washers, I was told to buy them myself! Specifically, I was told you would pay for them, but would not send them to me because I lived in Australia.

Forgive me if my trust in your company has been somewhat diminished lately.

I've already ordered my own washers - paid for them myself - and removed all the offending screws from the QB324 boards, which - despite the odd burn mark and exposed matrix - are now all working.

I haven't had a great experience, but my real concern is there may still be people out there with these boards who don't realise how dangerous they are - all for the sake of a few cheap plastic washers and due diligence on the part of your company.

Why not just send washers and instructions out to everyone who has bought these boards retrospectively? You have all the order numbers and addresses.

It's the right thing to do.
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
OK, so I've just opened my email and found you guys have refunded half the purchase price. I didn't ask for a refund, but I do appreciate the sentiment. You've also offered to send the washers and explained you thought it would take too long to send them from the US.

At least you guys are trying to make things right - kudos and thank you for the gesture. But I can't help think this all could have been avoided from the start . . .
 

Aolelon

Well-Known Member
My only gripe with the f-strips/hinflux stips is they all seem to need coolers. Are there versions that don't?

I'm cheap lol. 4x qb132 = $133
@ 1050ma = no heatsink required n 4 boards = a lot of coverage.
If ran soft enough you dont need sinks for the strips, they can usually support their own weight if you put framing in the right spots.
Here is a build using 4' F-series strips and no sinks.
IMG_0881.JPG
 

ganjamystic

Well-Known Member
Earlier we thought the issue was only with QB 324 in 320W kit.
However we saw similar issue with single QB 324 light engines too.
Since them we have reduced QB 324 prices and we have been adding Nylon washers to all orders recently.

All QB 324 without optics require Nylon washers.
Nylon washers not required when optics is used.
so it's just an issue with qb324 then? qb288 and qb304 don't require washers?
 
Hello.
I'm new to led, but I had issues with 288 qb v2, but on mine some boards wouldn't power up, after many hours of switching boards back and forth trouble shooting, I unscrewed the screw by the corner where a little silver square was and they would work. Issue was on some screws the the lip on button head would contact the little silver square. I was told it was the first but I ended up putting a nylon washer wherever those little squares were and problem solved. I did not have a problem with the white finish coming off like on your pics, but if you used metal washers on some, I would bet that it increased the contact on those little silver squares and the screw head now that theres more metal to touch increasing the problem? I'm no expert but that was my observation on a diy 48 board build. Hope this helped some, but since you asked I thought I would share. Will keep an eye out for any problems. Great company they were very helpfully to me, sorry to hear about you're experience.
 
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