Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!

[jeepster1993]

This is my 250 watter.
Built 3 years ago and several successful grows with it.
Cree CXB 3590's(3500k) running at 50 watts each, in a 5 square foot tent. That is Gelato 33.
It is a killer setup.

 

[SMT69]

wow super nice setups in here.....

here's my humble f strip build, these are very easy to build, everything is pretty much plug n play

14 x samsung f562b single row strips 3000K
1" Wide Extruded Aluminum Heatsink for each 1
meanwell 480h-24b driver
1" pvc frame diy

currently run in a 2'x4' tent @ 350w about 20" up
so light i can pick it up one hand


flower tent 2x4

and the veg tent 2'x3'x6'

4X samsung Quantum boards QB120 4000k
meanwell 240h-c2100b
no heat sinks needed even full up at 250w
mounted on pvc frame, also super light

 

[SMT69]

I'm wondering if its better running these a little lower power and closer to the plants is better, or higher up like ive gottem (20") and crank um up...?.

thoughts ?

I mean do i run 30w a sq ft at say 12" or go 45w sq ft at 20" .......etc

 

[Dave455]

I'm wondering if its better running these a little lower power and closer to the plants is better, or higher up like ive gottem (20") and crank um up...?.

thoughts ?

I mean do i run 30w a sq ft at say 12" or go 45w sq ft at 20" .......etc

20000 lux

 

[jeepster1993]

This my 320 watter.
Home made, it looks it.
About 3 years old now. It has grown a lot of dank. In a 3x3 tent.
6 Cree CXB 3590(3500k) running at about 55 watts each(320 watts total on a meanwell driver). When I bought the parts...I ordered much larger heatsinks than I really needed. But they work.
Island sweet skunk being grown it it now, these are 33 days from seed.

 

[rotten chestnut]

My ghetto diy ~250W cob setup in 3x3 tent.
5x3500k vero gen 7 cobs with meanwell drivers running at 1.4A and alpine cpu coolers.

It's only been a couple weeks since I replaced my cree cbx 3070 as I had only just realized that 70-80% of the bulbs had burned out due to sub par cooling.
Only did one grow with the crees a few years ago, and I failed to realize that the cobs were basically dead when I started my second grow with autos this summer. The lights were changed a few weeks into flowering so it's looking like the plants are almost a lost cause.

It should have clicked with me sooner that the plants were growing slowly, but I never thought to look directly at the lights =/
The new veros are supposed to be better than crees I had, so hopefully I'll have more success with my next grow.

 

[Delztronics]

24 vero 18's powered by 4 hgl-185h-c1050 meanwells. Six 2700k Twelve 3000k and 6 3000k

Skynet is fucking real!?!?

 

[led1k]

2 35k for every 1 5k.

Beautiful light but I don't get that part.

 

[led1k]

Thought id share a new design with the f series. Easy to build, if you need a parts list i can post it.

View attachment 4140687

Yes please!

 

[ILoveYouSweetLeaf]

Beautiful light but I don't get that part.

I believe what he is saying is that for every 1 bulb he uses that is 5,000 kelvin (5k) he uses 2 bulbs rated at 3,500 kelvin (35k).

 

[led1k]

I believe what he is saying is that for every 1 bulb he uses that is 5,000 kelvin (5k) he uses 2 bulbs rated at 3,500 kelvin (35k).

Got it finally. Thanks!

 

[zypheruk]

Build by @diyled Samsung Led Strip Light 280w Hinflux single rows for low height in flowering cab.
Stunning build really well thought out from start to finish. Will post more images and some text during the week.
@diyled much appreciated, excellent service. Now lets see what I can fry with these lol..

 

[SMT69]

Build by @diyled Samsung Led Strip Light 280w Hinflux single rows for low height in flowering cab.
Stunning build really well thought out from start to finish. Will post more images and some text during the week.
@diyled much appreciated, excellent service. Now lets see what I can fry with these lol..
View attachment 4193387

Wow man that’s great
Like to see your setup if u can

 

[led1k]

32 560mm gen 2 bridgelux strips, 2 35k for every 1 5k. 4 hlg 240-1400's running it balls to the wall.

I just got 15 of the same strip. Waiting for the HLG-320H-20B. What spacing are you using?
Edit: post showed red x's but they show now? Oh...

 

[led1k]

Build by @diyled Samsung Led Strip Light 280w Hinflux single rows for low height in flowering cab.
Stunning build really well thought out from start to finish. Will post more images and some text during the week.
@diyled much appreciated, excellent service. Now lets see what I can fry with these lol..
View attachment 4193387

Beautiful! More details and pics please.

 

[randydj]

It has been a while since I built my 14 - Citizen 1212 3500K cri 90 fixture. I have done 6 grows with them and overall the results are very good. I use some 730 nm reds to initiate flower running them 15 minutes at lights off. One thing I noticed especially the last 3 grows is that the internodal length is too long. So I have decided I want to add some more blue light to my spectrum to see if that will shorten the internode space a little. So I copied RapidLed who copied the CobShop's light form. It uses a 140 mm pin heat sink, a Citizen Royal Blue COB CLU048-1212CF-B455 and a Meanwell HBG-60-1050 driver. I built two of them. I plan on using them until the end of stretch.

 

[Randomblame]

@randydj
You can also try to shorten the far-red end of day treatment from 15 to 10mins untill the stretch is gone. You need between 2000 and 4000μMol(not per second) to switch phytochrome far-red. The more you use the more stretch you'll see. A far-red trigger with 5w at the wall and 44% efficiency needs only to run for 5 minutes to throw out 4000μMol.
(5w x 0,44% = 2,2PAR/w x 6μMol/J(QER for far-red) = 13,2μMol/s/m² x 300sec(or 5mins) = 3960μMol within 5 minutes)
I don't know how powerful your far-red trigger is but 15 minutes could be more than needed...
Yes, the flower cycle shortening effect is stronger the more far-red you use but that is only true up to a certain range. Above 4000μMol the shortening effect get's more and more negligible but the effect on stretch is still there up to the point you see SAS symtomes(shadeavoidingsyndrome).
Personally I begin the flower session always with only 2500μMol and increase to 4000-5000 when the stretch is done.
If I use too much far-red from the beginning my tops later fall all over the place 'cause the skinny stems can not hold the weight. I need to use plant jojos or bambus rods then to avoid this.
If you know the used diodes and the driver of your far-red light we could figure out how much time it actual needs to switch your plants into night mode.

 

[Randomblame]

I just got 15 of the same strip. Waiting for the HLG-320H-20B. What spacing are you using?
Edit: post showed red x's but they show now? Oh...

That X'es occur usually when pics or other items are removed and no longer available.

 

[randydj]

@randydj
You can also try to shorten the far-red end of day treatment from 15 to 10mins untill the stretch is gone. You need between 2000 and 4000μMol(not per second) to switch phytochrome far-red. The more you use the more stretch you'll see. A far-red trigger with 5w at the wall and 44% efficiency needs only to run for 5 minutes to throw out 4000μMol.
(5w x 0,44% = 2,2PAR/w x 6μMol/J(QER for far-red) = 13,2μMol/s/m² x 300sec(or 5mins) = 3960μMol within 5 minutes)
I don't know how powerful your far-red trigger is but 15 minutes could be more than needed...
Yes, the flower cycle shortening effect is stronger the more far-red you use but that is only true up to a certain range. Above 4000μMol the shortening effect get's more and more negligible but the effect on stretch is still there up to the point you see SAS symtomes(shadeavoidingsyndrome).
Personally I begin the flower session always with only 2500μMol and increase to 4000-5000 when the stretch is done.
If I use too much far-red from the beginning my tops later fall all over the place 'cause the skinny stems can not hold the weight. I need to use plant jojos or bambus rods then to avoid this.
If you know the used diodes and the driver of your far-red light we could figure out how much time it actual needs to switch your plants into night mode.

4 - 3 watt 730 nm SemiLeds in 24 SQ FT Meanwell LDD-700H. I think I did all of the calculations back when I built the light but I have slept since then. The Citizen 1212 3500K cri 90 is a little weak on blue and I wanted to add some anyhow. I think it will be fun to see what happens. If it ends up being too much blue? I can just put a white cob on one of them easy peasy.

 

[T-Time]

@randydj
You can also try to shorten the far-red end of day treatment from 15 to 10mins untill the stretch is gone. You need between 2000 and 4000μMol(not per second) to switch phytochrome far-red. The more you use the more stretch you'll see. A far-red trigger with 5w at the wall and 44% efficiency needs only to run for 5 minutes to throw out 4000μMol.
(5w x 0,44% = 2,2PAR/w x 6μMol/J(QER for far-red) = 13,2μMol/s/m² x 300sec(or 5mins) = 3960μMol within 5 minutes)
I don't know how powerful your far-red trigger is but 15 minutes could be more than needed...
Yes, the flower cycle shortening effect is stronger the more far-red you use but that is only true up to a certain range. Above 4000μMol the shortening effect get's more and more negligible but the effect on stretch is still there up to the point you see SAS symtomes(shadeavoidingsyndrome).
Personally I begin the flower session always with only 2500μMol and increase to 4000-5000 when the stretch is done.
If I use too much far-red from the beginning my tops later fall all over the place 'cause the skinny stems can not hold the weight. I need to use plant jojos or bambus rods then to avoid this.
If you know the used diodes and the driver of your far-red light we could figure out how much time it actual needs to switch your plants into night mode.

Learn something new every day. Thanks Randomblame !