20000 luxI'm wondering if its better running these a little lower power and closer to the plants is better, or higher up like ive gottem (20") and crank um up...?.
thoughts ?
I mean do i run 30w a sq ft at say 12" or go 45w sq ft at 20" .......etc
Skynet is fucking real!?!?24 vero 18's powered by 4 hgl-185h-c1050 meanwells. Six 2700k Twelve 3000k and 6 3000k
Beautiful light but I don't get that part.2 35k for every 1 5k.
Yes please!Thought id share a new design with the f series. Easy to build, if you need a parts list i can post it.
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I believe what he is saying is that for every 1 bulb he uses that is 5,000 kelvin (5k) he uses 2 bulbs rated at 3,500 kelvin (35k).Beautiful light but I don't get that part.
Got it finally. Thanks!I believe what he is saying is that for every 1 bulb he uses that is 5,000 kelvin (5k) he uses 2 bulbs rated at 3,500 kelvin (35k).
Wow man that’s greatBuild by @diyled Samsung Led Strip Light 280w Hinflux single rows for low height in flowering cab.
Stunning build really well thought out from start to finish. Will post more images and some text during the week.
@diyled much appreciated, excellent service. Now lets see what I can fry with these lol..
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I just got 15 of the same strip. Waiting for the HLG-320H-20B. What spacing are you using?32 560mm gen 2 bridgelux strips, 2 35k for every 1 5k. 4 hlg 240-1400's running it balls to the wall.
Beautiful! More details and pics please.Build by @diyled Samsung Led Strip Light 280w Hinflux single rows for low height in flowering cab.
Stunning build really well thought out from start to finish. Will post more images and some text during the week.
@diyled much appreciated, excellent service. Now lets see what I can fry with these lol..
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That X'es occur usually when pics or other items are removed and no longer available.I just got 15 of the same strip. Waiting for the HLG-320H-20B. What spacing are you using?
Edit: post showed red x's but they show now? Oh...
4 - 3 watt 730 nm SemiLeds in 24 SQ FT Meanwell LDD-700H. I think I did all of the calculations back when I built the light but I have slept since then. The Citizen 1212 3500K cri 90 is a little weak on blue and I wanted to add some anyhow. I think it will be fun to see what happens. If it ends up being too much blue? I can just put a white cob on one of them easy peasy.@randydj
You can also try to shorten the far-red end of day treatment from 15 to 10mins untill the stretch is gone. You need between 2000 and 4000μMol(not per second) to switch phytochrome far-red. The more you use the more stretch you'll see. A far-red trigger with 5w at the wall and 44% efficiency needs only to run for 5 minutes to throw out 4000μMol.
(5w x 0,44% = 2,2PAR/w x 6μMol/J(QER for far-red) = 13,2μMol/s/m² x 300sec(or 5mins) = 3960μMol within 5 minutes)
I don't know how powerful your far-red trigger is but 15 minutes could be more than needed...
Yes, the flower cycle shortening effect is stronger the more far-red you use but that is only true up to a certain range. Above 4000μMol the shortening effect get's more and more negligible but the effect on stretch is still there up to the point you see SAS symtomes(shadeavoidingsyndrome).
Personally I begin the flower session always with only 2500μMol and increase to 4000-5000 when the stretch is done.
If I use too much far-red from the beginning my tops later fall all over the place 'cause the skinny stems can not hold the weight. I need to use plant jojos or bambus rods then to avoid this.
If you know the used diodes and the driver of your far-red light we could figure out how much time it actual needs to switch your plants into night mode.
Learn something new every day. Thanks Randomblame !@randydj
You can also try to shorten the far-red end of day treatment from 15 to 10mins untill the stretch is gone. You need between 2000 and 4000μMol(not per second) to switch phytochrome far-red. The more you use the more stretch you'll see. A far-red trigger with 5w at the wall and 44% efficiency needs only to run for 5 minutes to throw out 4000μMol.
(5w x 0,44% = 2,2PAR/w x 6μMol/J(QER for far-red) = 13,2μMol/s/m² x 300sec(or 5mins) = 3960μMol within 5 minutes)
I don't know how powerful your far-red trigger is but 15 minutes could be more than needed...
Yes, the flower cycle shortening effect is stronger the more far-red you use but that is only true up to a certain range. Above 4000μMol the shortening effect get's more and more negligible but the effect on stretch is still there up to the point you see SAS symtomes(shadeavoidingsyndrome).
Personally I begin the flower session always with only 2500μMol and increase to 4000-5000 when the stretch is done.
If I use too much far-red from the beginning my tops later fall all over the place 'cause the skinny stems can not hold the weight. I need to use plant jojos or bambus rods then to avoid this.
If you know the used diodes and the driver of your far-red light we could figure out how much time it actual needs to switch your plants into night mode.