Very Hard Water?

Vlkk

Member
OK, so I’m currently using unfiltered, straight from the tap, hard as a motherfucker water.

A few of the values are as follows:

Calcium - 114 mg/l
Magnesium - 8.39 mg/l
Phosphorus - 999 ug/l
Potassium - 11.5 mg/l
Nitrate - 17.9 mg/l

Couple of questions, firstly, how bad is this water for my plant?

And secondly, do I need to supplement cal mag with these levels? Or is this partly why low levels of nutes seem to burn my plant?

I do sit the water for around 48 hours before a feed to get rid of the chlorine, but nothing else.

I May give an RO system some consideration, though I’d rather not, but this partly depends on the replies to this post as I know the water here isn’t good!

Wow, your water levels are instane i would never add any fertilizer tbh. immediately will burn.
Calmag on those levels won't be beneficial.

Buy reverse osmosis filter or use air conditioner water which is the best, if you're using AC it will be a good idea to collect the water.
 

Tuckatan

Well-Known Member
Ok so my water is really hard, but is there an in between I could get? I really don’t want to puncture into mains pipes and don’t have a garden hose tap either, but I don’t know if some kinds carbon filter would be of any use? Would it end up getting expensive changing the filters? I mean, if I had 200 ppm I probably wouldn’t be too concerned, but at 450 its a bit much. I mean, I may as well not give any nutes with these levels in my water right?

I have got slight burnt tips from using calmag, along with some gh nutes... could I ease off the nutes and continue with this water? I mean, it seems like I’d pay to get an RO system, pay for filters and maintenance, and then pay for nutes to put back in what the RO system removes, when I could just not feed nutes and give it my dirty 450ppm tap water? Lol
 

pulpoinspace

Well-Known Member
Ok so my water is really hard, but is there an in between I could get? I really don’t want to puncture into mains pipes and don’t have a garden hose tap either, but I don’t know if some kinds carbon filter would be of any use? Would it end up getting expensive changing the filters? I mean, if I had 200 ppm I probably wouldn’t be too concerned, but at 450 its a bit much. I mean, I may as well not give any nutes with these levels in my water right?

I have got slight burnt tips from using calmag, along with some gh nutes... could I ease off the nutes and continue with this water? I mean, it seems like I’d pay to get an RO system, pay for filters and maintenance, and then pay for nutes to put back in what the RO system removes, when I could just not feed nutes and give it my dirty 450ppm tap water? Lol
what i meant was PPM meters use conversion factor to estimate ppm from conductivity. conductivity is a more accurate measure. so water conductivity of 798 microseimens/cm is equal to 400-550 ppm depending which conversion factor your meter uses.

safe drinking water is usually said to be below 500 ppm, you're right there. personally i would get at least a brita water filter if i was gonna drink that every day

if you dont wanna get an RO filter right away you could just use half distilled water and half tap water

that would at least cut you down to 400 microseimens/cm theoretically. then you could replace some of the excess you took out with proper cannabis nutrients.
 
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OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-reverse-osmosis-water-and-growing-great-cannabis-n410
"The resulting ultra filtered water is stripped of all minerals. You are now responsible for the entire mineral profile of your water before it goes to your precious plants."
"Your nutrient product should be selected with the use of reverse osmosis water in mind. Remember you are now entirely responsible for the mineral content of your water. Organic soil growers will still need to modify their water. Soil is an excellent buffer against ph fluctuations and microbial attacks, but it will not save you from calcium deficiency. At all times, from spray bottle to the final flush stages, the reverse osmosis water will always need to be adjusted."


I'm no expert on this nor do I wish to spark any arguments lol. Maybe my wording was horrible but i'm just going off what i've been told and what i've read on the web.

Also, an interesting article on flushing.
https://zenpype.com/flushing-cannabis-plants-is-a-bad-practice-based-on-flawed-science/
I highlighted that sentence in your quote as that is what I was getting at. The RO filter strips all minerals from your water, (also harmful things like lead and other heavy metals, pesticides, etc), and gives you a blank slate to engineer your own nutrient profiles with. The RO water doesn't 'strip' anything itself.

In the case of true organic growing, not my forte, all the plants needs are built into the soil and just water need be added. If the soil is done right it's all there and nothing need be added to RO water to compensate for it's lack of minerals.

With quality hydro nutes all the plant's needs are in a few bottles including Ca and Mg tho maybe not in enough quantity for plants being grown in the intensive manner that indoor pot is usually grown in. In that case the addition of CalMag is a good idea tho I use less than half the recommended amount and have never seen a serious lack of either nutrient in my plants.

I started growing pot in DWC in 2001 and for at least the first 10 years never saw deficiencies in Ca or Mg and often never changed nutes for the whole grow. Wasteful as hell to change nutes for at least the first month or until switching to flower imeo. I used RO water only with AN 3-part nutes, no CalMag but some Epsom Salts.

I'm not looking for an argument either. I initially asked about the stripping in case I was missing something and thought that statement could use a little clarification.

I agree that flushing before cropping is another myth but it does have it's uses at times.

When a soil is too hot flushing extra water through can reduce the nutrient levels enough that the plants can handle it. Or like I do with soilless and hydro nutes if I see burning starting after a feed or screw up and overdose the plants it'll do the same as with soil. Get the nute level down to stop the burning.

Even with DWC I don't remove all the nutes at the end but remove half or so and replace with RO to lower the levels a week or so before I begin to crop. I'll take the big ripe colas first then leave the smaller stuff for around 10 days to ripen up some more and hopefully put on a bit more weight before finishing the job. If in soilless I'll just give them RO for the last week or more before cropping in the same way. I try not to overfeed so there shouldn't be enough left to worry about. I want to see the lower leaves begin yellowing near the end as that indicates the buds are stealing nutes to finish up with and I've not overfed.

:peace:
 

Medicated Bonsai

Well-Known Member
I highlighted that sentence in your quote as that is what I was getting at. The RO filter strips all minerals from your water, (also harmful things like lead and other heavy metals, pesticides, etc), and gives you a blank slate to engineer your own nutrient profiles with. The RO water doesn't 'strip' anything itself.

In the case of true organic growing, not my forte, all the plants needs are built into the soil and just water need be added. If the soil is done right it's all there and nothing need be added to RO water to compensate for it's lack of minerals.

With quality hydro nutes all the plant's needs are in a few bottles including Ca and Mg tho maybe not in enough quantity for plants being grown in the intensive manner that indoor pot is usually grown in. In that case the addition of CalMag is a good idea tho I use less than half the recommended amount and have never seen a serious lack of either nutrient in my plants.

I started growing pot in DWC in 2001 and for at least the first 10 years never saw deficiencies in Ca or Mg and often never changed nutes for the whole grow. Wasteful as hell to change nutes for at least the first month or until switching to flower imeo. I used RO water only with AN 3-part nutes, no CalMag but some Epsom Salts.

I'm not looking for an argument either. I initially asked about the stripping in case I was missing something and thought that statement could use a little clarification.

I agree that flushing before cropping is another myth but it does have it's uses at times.

When a soil is too hot flushing extra water through can reduce the nutrient levels enough that the plants can handle it. Or like I do with soilless and hydro nutes if I see burning starting after a feed or screw up and overdose the plants it'll do the same as with soil. Get the nute level down to stop the burning.

Even with DWC I don't remove all the nutes at the end but remove half or so and replace with RO to lower the levels a week or so before I begin to crop. I'll take the big ripe colas first then leave the smaller stuff for around 10 days to ripen up some more and hopefully put on a bit more weight before finishing the job. If in soilless I'll just give them RO for the last week or more before cropping in the same way. I try not to overfeed so there shouldn't be enough left to worry about. I want to see the lower leaves begin yellowing near the end as that indicates the buds are stealing nutes to finish up with and I've not overfed.

:peace:
Hm, maybe I’m just confused but...using plain RO water won’t remove minerals from the soil? In other words, if I took a pot of FFOF potting mix and started pouring RO water, would the PPM level stay constant? no matter the amount of water I put in?
 

Uncle Reefer

Well-Known Member
I am in a very similar situation to you, what I am using and is working so far is Dehumidifier water and adding Epson salt and a Calcium nitrate based 10-0-0 fert. Just a heaping teaspoon of each in about 20 gallons of 0 ppm water. THen once every 2 weeks I water with my 800 ppm well water that is high in Manganese Iron and Sulpher .so far although I have not completed a crop yet in the new space it is looking pretty good so far
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Hm, maybe I’m just confused but...using plain RO water won’t remove minerals from the soil? In other words, if I took a pot of FFOF potting mix and started pouring RO water, would the PPM level stay constant? no matter the amount of water I put in?
Yep. The RO isn't adding any ppm if it's pure. Same with distilled water. Neither have a real pH of their own so always pH it after adding all nutes or if just watering just pour it in. It will not affect whatever the pH is in the soil.

Except when soil is dry the pH goes up or down a bit but I can't recall which so wetting it will bring it back to what it was.

The only way it will 'strip' nutes is if you get runoff and remove that. Give that to another plant as feed if you want.

If I'm growing in actual soil organically I will use some of my dugout water to inoculate the soil with bacteria and fungi. We just filter the water but no sterilization and little fish and frogs live in there and we had 4 pairs of ducks nest in there this summer. Water should be teaming with healthy stuff for plants. :)

It's a good size. 82x52yds and 12ft deep.
 

Medicated Bonsai

Well-Known Member
Yep. The RO isn't adding any ppm if it's pure. Same with distilled water. Neither have a real pH of their own so always pH it after adding all nutes or if just watering just pour it in. It will not affect whatever the pH is in the soil.

Except when soil is dry the pH goes up or down a bit but I can't recall which so wetting it will bring it back to what it was.

The only way it will 'strip' nutes is if you get runoff and remove that. Give that to another plant as feed if you want.

If I'm growing in actual soil organically I will use some of my dugout water to inoculate the soil with bacteria and fungi. We just filter the water but no sterilization and little fish and frogs live in there and we had 4 pairs of ducks nest in there this summer. Water should be teaming with healthy stuff for plants. :)

It's a good size. 82x52yds and 12ft deep.
This whole time, I thought minerals could be washed out of the soil haha. So then what's the science behind flushing? If minerals can't be stripped/removed then why do PPM levels drop as you pour more water?
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I am in a very similar situation to you, what I am using and is working so far is Dehumidifier water and adding Epson salt and a Calcium nitrate based 10-0-0 fert. Just a heaping teaspoon of each in about 20 gallons of 0 ppm water. THen once every 2 weeks I water with my 800 ppm well water that is high in Manganese Iron and Sulpher .so far although I have not completed a crop yet in the new space it is looking pretty good so far
That sounds pretty good. A lot of well and tap water has minerals in it that are great for plants but when you are watering with high ppm water all the time there ends up being too much and buggers up the plants.

I have an idea for a DIY heat exchanger unit just to collect all that expensive RO water I buy. I know it will work but just haven't got around to building it. I may have access to some money soon so will get that portable AC unit and a CO2 tank to run my room sealed then can collect the water from it like you're doing. I'll be building my RO system at the same time so water will suddenly be almost free.

Funny how that works out eh. :)
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
This whole time, I thought minerals could be washed out of the soil haha. So then what's the science behind flushing? If minerals can't be stripped/removed then why do PPM levels drop as you pour more water?
As I said in the last post . . .

The only way it will 'strip' nutes is if you get runoff and remove that.
So if you wash the water thru the rootball it will dissolve nutrient salts, (minerals), and come out as runoff. If you remove the runoff then you reduce the amount of nutes in the rootball. That's what flushing does and if things are really going sideways with plants then it can often save them. I've seen rookies post, Help I just realized I fed my plants 10x the amount I was suppose to. What do I do!!!!!!!

That's one of the few good times to flush. :)
 

Tuckatan

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the replies guys, very informative stuff!

I have got some de ionised water, it’s £1 for 2.5l so I got 20 litres for now and will see how it goes mixing half and half with tap water. The deionised is 4ppm.

Another question for you guys, if I half and half it, should I add some calmag and light dose of gh micro? My plant seems to slow down a lot, and I’m now understanding it’s because my water containers so much shit, along with my pre fertilised coco/peat, and adding more nutes on top! Say the water is then 200ppm when mixed, should I add further nutrients? Maybe a quarter dose?

Again, appreciate all your help guys, so much knowledge flying around RIU!
 

pulpoinspace

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the replies guys, very informative stuff!

I have got some de ionised water, it’s £1 for 2.5l so I got 20 litres for now and will see how it goes mixing half and half with tap water. The deionised is 4ppm.

Another question for you guys, if I half and half it, should I add some calmag and light dose of gh micro? My plant seems to slow down a lot, and I’m now understanding it’s because my water containers so much shit, along with my pre fertilised coco/peat, and adding more nutes on top! Say the water is then 200ppm when mixed, should I add further nutrients? Maybe a quarter dose?

Again, appreciate all your help guys, so much knowledge flying around RIU!
yes if you get your water to below 200 ppm you can add cannabis nutrients at a quarter dose
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Just use less nutrients and no cal/mag.
Im in Yorkshire with hard water. No issues.
If you are not having problems then chill.

If you get problems mix 50/50 with RO. You can buy it from aquariums or buy a RO filter for £100
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
what i meant was PPM meters use conversion factor to estimate ppm from conductivity. conductivity is a more accurate measure. so water conductivity of 798 microseimens/cm is equal to 400-550 ppm depending which conversion factor your meter uses.
I printed this out for a handy reference.

PPM-EC-CF.jpg
 

newgrow16

Well-Known Member
This whole time, I thought minerals could be washed out of the soil haha. So then what's the science behind flushing? If minerals can't be stripped/removed then why do PPM levels drop as you pour more water?
Science?? This is a weed growing forum, very little science involved
 
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Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
Ok so my water is really hard, but is there an in between I could get? I really don’t want to puncture into mains pipes and don’t have a garden hose tap either, but I don’t know if some kinds carbon filter would be of any use? Would it end up getting expensive changing the filters? I mean, if I had 200 ppm I probably wouldn’t be too concerned, but at 450 its a bit much. I mean, I may as well not give any nutes with these levels in my water right?

I have got slight burnt tips from using calmag, along with some gh nutes... could I ease off the nutes and continue with this water? I mean, it seems like I’d pay to get an RO system, pay for filters and maintenance, and then pay for nutes to put back in what the RO system removes, when I could just not feed nutes and give it my dirty 450ppm tap water? Lol
Maybe get something that screws into your faucet and then draw off & store several 5 gallon buckets as needed? I know you're sick of hearing it but damn! Never heard of ppm that high coming out the tap?!
 
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