1000W HPS Bulb with lowest heat output
- Thread starter CBD123THC
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PrometheanLeaf
Well-Known Member
I doubt you will get more than a degree or two difference between bulbs in the best case. I'd concentrate on lowering the lung room temp or go open air. Either way good luck in the grow.
But here is the vpd chart, you can totally grow with higher temps as long as your humidity is on point.
https://www.dudegrows.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_4630-1.jpg
Maybe a humidifier/dehumidifier is something to look at instead of new bulbs. (I know it is another equipment cost, but usually an important one.
As the year gets cooler you might notice that you need the heat from the hps.
But here is the vpd chart, you can totally grow with higher temps as long as your humidity is on point.
https://www.dudegrows.com/wp-content/uploads/IMG_4630-1.jpg
Maybe a humidifier/dehumidifier is something to look at instead of new bulbs. (I know it is another equipment cost, but usually an important one.
As the year gets cooler you might notice that you need the heat from the hps.
Thanks Promethean. I've been considering everything and I think you're right, I'll probably will stick with this bulb until it's time to buy a new one, and then I might buy a different bulb and check the temps just to see. I do have a small humidifier as well as a good sized dehumidifier so I can use these if I need to. So basically if my temperature is running between 85 and 90 degrees, I'll need to increase the humidity right? Looks like about 75% - 80% if I'm reading that chart correctly. Only thing I worry about with that high of a humidity during flowering is rot issues, but maybe that won't be an issue with the high temperature in the tent and making sure I have good airflow.
PrometheanLeaf
Well-Known Member
Just make sure your temps are fairly consistent and watch the plants for stress. Use a heater ect if you need to during lights out to only have the temperature swing a max of around 10%. And you will want a ton of air circulation with higher humidity.
Adding c02 is another way to deal with higher temps as well.
I know you can pull decently from an 84-86 degree f temps. Again take some of what I say with a grain of salt. Lots of strains grow near the equator with quite high temps and humidity.
Adding c02 is another way to deal with higher temps as well.
I know you can pull decently from an 84-86 degree f temps. Again take some of what I say with a grain of salt. Lots of strains grow near the equator with quite high temps and humidity.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Even if you have a 1000W 100% efficient lamp, it's still going to put 1000W of heat into your system. The light doesn't just disappear. It's essentially radiant heat.
raggyb
Well-Known Member
Here's a thought, can you put a thermometer on the ballast and measure temp there withe the MH vs the HPS in? Of course leave it on a couple hours for each before measuring. This is I mean if the ballast is in your lung room or near your intake? Lung room LOL. That's a new one for me. I have no tent.
I got cheap as shit bargain basement but my ancient HPS system is way less efficient than my ancient MH. I know that because their 1/3 the wattage to almost the same amps. Does your set up indicate if it runs at different amps depending on the light type?
I'm think no lamp is going to be even close to 100% efficient. They throw off heat right away like a controlled fire, and the rest of the light is absorbed by matter and converted to heat but for what your plant can suck in and convert to Jah. So some energy loss, aka heat occurs in the ballast and some in the bulb. Probably the resistance of the bulb defines the heat loss. But you don't get light without resistance, so perhaps you can pick the lowest resistance HPS bulb you can find and assume that's good but I would not think you can get them all that different and as well something way off if it even exists might fuck up the ballast or blow up the bulb? It's beyond me but that's my 2 cent.
I got cheap as shit bargain basement but my ancient HPS system is way less efficient than my ancient MH. I know that because their 1/3 the wattage to almost the same amps. Does your set up indicate if it runs at different amps depending on the light type?
I'm think no lamp is going to be even close to 100% efficient. They throw off heat right away like a controlled fire, and the rest of the light is absorbed by matter and converted to heat but for what your plant can suck in and convert to Jah. So some energy loss, aka heat occurs in the ballast and some in the bulb. Probably the resistance of the bulb defines the heat loss. But you don't get light without resistance, so perhaps you can pick the lowest resistance HPS bulb you can find and assume that's good but I would not think you can get them all that different and as well something way off if it even exists might fuck up the ballast or blow up the bulb? It's beyond me but that's my 2 cent.
Lucky Luke
Well-Known Member
Don't forget you heat a gas to create light in a lamp. Different gasses create different heat. (that's why MH is cooler than HPS)
A 1000 Watts creates a 1000w of heat + the heat of the gases= temp
A 1000 Watts creates a 1000w of heat + the heat of the gases= temp
Beachwalker
Well-Known Member
My two cents; I can't run a thousand watts for at least half of the year in my five by five. I recommend you go with what you mentioned above and get the 600 watt for that size tent for better results with the heat, good luck!
PrometheanLeaf
Well-Known Member
@CBD123THC Are you running your lights at night or during the day? Running them at night if you aren't already could help out as well. Random thought.
Good deal. I'm looking into ways to keep my lights off temps up so that I don't have too much temperature difference. Hopefully that will reduce the stretch I had the first time
Good
Good info! I'll look into bulb resistance for when but my next bulb
I'm running them at night. In my first grow, I ran them during the day, so hopefully this will help a little bit
NanoGadget
Well-Known Member
As the fine folks have already said, the variation in heat output from one 1000w light to any other 1000w light will be minimal. Here are things you can control to mitigate excessive heat.
1. Consider going from a passive intake to an intake with an inline fan. This will not only increase airflow but allows you to use ducting to pull air from a cooler source (like a different room or from outside). In general, it is preferable that your tent pulls air from and vents air to a room other than the room your tent is in. At the vey least you should vent to a different area.
2. If possible, mount your ballast outside your tent. Any driver/ballast is going to produce heat and every little bit can help.
3. Make sure to change or clean your carbon filter and prefilter regularly as clogged filters reduce airflow and cause temps to rise.
4. Having said all that, if your temps still aren't where you want them, adjusting the relative humidity inside your tent to best match your ambient temp will help to minimize the stress that high temps can inflict on your plants. Definitely familiarize yourself with the concept VPD.
1. Consider going from a passive intake to an intake with an inline fan. This will not only increase airflow but allows you to use ducting to pull air from a cooler source (like a different room or from outside). In general, it is preferable that your tent pulls air from and vents air to a room other than the room your tent is in. At the vey least you should vent to a different area.
2. If possible, mount your ballast outside your tent. Any driver/ballast is going to produce heat and every little bit can help.
3. Make sure to change or clean your carbon filter and prefilter regularly as clogged filters reduce airflow and cause temps to rise.
4. Having said all that, if your temps still aren't where you want them, adjusting the relative humidity inside your tent to best match your ambient temp will help to minimize the stress that high temps can inflict on your plants. Definitely familiarize yourself with the concept VPD.