QB96 Elite V2 w/ SSTX heatsink question

Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
trojanvirus said:
@ CoB_nUt

I have it in 5.5" spacing between the lights, but I will double check tomorrow.
There was enough room to leave 1/4 inch between the drivers for a small air gap.

The A dimmers don't work at all like the B drivers, its not just the dimming. There's a safety thing involved, but I can't remember now. Don't use the A-type drivers. Buy a $3 pot and wire it in, its very easy.

Here's a video (linked) on how to wire a pot.
Click to expand...
Sorry, thats nonsense!
A version will just work as well as B version and in fact you get more watts out of the A version drivers.

There is only a risk if you use the CV/CC version but an oversized driver. An HLG-480H-54A would be dangerous for a single QB96. So when you use for instance two QB96 in parallel and one boards fails the other boards could fail too. But therefor these drivers have the voltage regulator. Simply cap/limit the voltage at 54,3v and the max. current will stay in a save range even with only one board. There is also no risk for thermal runaways when you limit the maximum voltage.
Remember, voltage limits current flow and vice versa. When the voltage is limited to 54,3v you can ramp up the current regulator to the max. and nothing would happen. The boards would still work with 54,3v and the according current also if much more current is available from the driver.
So in reality A versions offer a few more watts like B version drivers and CV/CC series driver have more watts like CC drivers. HLG-240H-C1400A has ~260w and an HLG-240H-54A can easily go as high as 285w watts and more. That depends on the boards you use and on the circuit design. QB96's 54v fits very well to max out an HLG-240 because you can set the voltage to 55 or 56v to allow maximum current flow.

@Or_Gro
Have not you tested the maximum output one can get with an HLG-240H-54A? Not 100% sure but I remember someone said something of around +300w with a single QB96..
 
CoB_nUt

CoB_nUt

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Sorry, thats nonsense!
A version will just work as well as B version and in fact you get more watts out of the A version drivers.

There is only a risk if you use the CV/CC version but an oversized driver. An HLG-480H-54A would be dangerous for a single QB96. So when you use for instance two QB96 in parallel and one boards fails the other boards could fail too. But therefor these drivers have the voltage regulator. Simply cap/limit the voltage at 54,3v and the max. current will stay in a save range even with only one board. There is also no risk for thermal runaways when you limit the maximum voltage.
Remember, voltage limits current flow and vice versa. When the voltage is limited to 54,3v you can ramp up the current regulator to the max. and nothing would happen. The boards would still work with 54,3v and the according current also if much more current is available from the driver.
So in reality A versions offer a few more watts like B version drivers and CV/CC series driver have more watts like CC drivers. HLG-240H-C1400A has ~260w and an HLG-240H-54A can easily go as high as 285w watts and more. That depends on the boards you use and on the circuit design. QB96's 54v fits very well to max out an HLG-240 because you can set the voltage to 55 or 56v to allow maximum current flow.

@Or_Gro
Have not you tested the maximum output one can get with an HLG-240H-54A? Not 100% sure but I remember someone said something of around +300w with a single QB96..
Click to expand...
Thank you Randomblame. When I recieved my lights and was testing them, I got as high as 309 watts, Before I became concerned and started backing down the power.
I was just curious as to why meanwell "recommended" the wall dimmer. That's it. Didn't mean to cause a fuss.
 
Or_Gro

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Sorry, thats nonsense!
A version will just work as well as B version and in fact you get more watts out of the A version drivers.

There is only a risk if you use the CV/CC version but an oversized driver. An HLG-480H-54A would be dangerous for a single QB96. So when you use for instance two QB96 in parallel and one boards fails the other boards could fail too. But therefor these drivers have the voltage regulator. Simply cap/limit the voltage at 54,3v and the max. current will stay in a save range even with only one board. There is also no risk for thermal runaways when you limit the maximum voltage.
Remember, voltage limits current flow and vice versa. When the voltage is limited to 54,3v you can ramp up the current regulator to the max. and nothing would happen. The boards would still work with 54,3v and the according current also if much more current is available from the driver.
So in reality A versions offer a few more watts like B version drivers and CV/CC series driver have more watts like CC drivers. HLG-240H-C1400A has ~260w and an HLG-240H-54A can easily go as high as 285w watts and more. That depends on the boards you use and on the circuit design. QB96's 54v fits very well to max out an HLG-240 because you can set the voltage to 55 or 56v to allow maximum current flow.

@Or_Gro
Have not you tested the maximum output one can get with an HLG-240H-54A? Not 100% sure but I remember someone said something of around +300w with a single QB96..
Click to expand...
Hlg-240h-54A, singke 96: Vo max, Io max -> 340-360w is what i got.

Here is what the other guy was running when the machine controller dimmer from 240h-54A driver output melted:

8856954E-EFCB-4729-A7F1-B4E48C5703FE.jpeg
 
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Or_Gro

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Day 18 from seed pop, under single 93,
currently 124w, at 24”, working on 5th true node, bigass leaves, short internodes, laterals growin at true nodes 1 & 2. They love 400ppfd @3400K.

E4C3CE1E-3B34-4C88-A956-6530958188EC.jpeg
Top left 2 Jack Herer, bottom left Green Crack, right 3 Original Glues

5-pack Nirvana GSC failed to germ; at least one replacement Trainwreck:

56A153BC-C8C8-4637-8C00-1D063E67470D.jpeg

i’ll be doing the process: seed -> clone -> mainline -> veg to ~12” -> 12:12 -> fame & fortune

These lights do prop well...
 
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trojanvirus

trojanvirus

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Sorry, thats nonsense!
Click to expand...
Not sure what part you are talking about.

The A driver, I don't like it; I would rather control from a pot away from the driver, especially that mine are on top of the frame. I found the dimmer produced abrupt changes when I dial it, and were not 0-100%; but maybe thats just me.

There are differences, the dimmer types...

Capture.PNG

The A-types are not 3-in-1; you're suppose to just use the onboard pots. My comment regarding safety is that although the B-type has 3-in-1, the A-type is restricted (from my understanding).

Here's some more:

A Type – Adjustable Current and Voltage

The HLG-C A type are IP65 rated and include two on-board potentiometers that can adjust the output voltage and current. The potentiometers are found under the two black caps on the face of the power supply. The DC Voltage range can be adjusted ±10% whereas the current output can be adjusted from around 50%-100% of the current rating.

B Type – 3-in-1 Dimming

The B type HLG-C offers Mean Well’s dimming that can be controlled via 0-10V, 10V PWM Signal or Resistance.

Beyond that, I don't know. I am not trained as an electrical anything. I've seen what happens when you run the boards overpower and I don't know if the cause was the dimmer; that's my understanding (in regards to the molten dimmer).

I also don't like that in the video I posted (LEDGardener); although its a great video, I don't like that he didn't ground his pot. Call me paranoid.
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
CoB_nUt said:
Thank you Randomblame. When I recieved my lights and was testing them, I got as high as 309 watts, Before I became concerned and started backing down the power.
I was just curious as to why meanwell "recommended" the wall dimmer. That's it. Didn't mean to cause a fuss.
Click to expand...
Because they were under the impression this was going into a finished houshold, not a grow room. The wall switch provides a single location where the light can be turned on/off or adjusted, it outputs 0-10v in addition to being a switch for the 110v.
 
Or_Gro

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
GreeneryBob said:
Check out the new Elite 360s on the HLG website https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/products/hlg-elite-360

It's a nice little goody for non-DIYers
Click to expand...
Lol, looks damn familiar!

I think they described flower and veg footprints accurately. I’d spread them apart another 2-4”, but the performance of that light array will be great.

For flowering, that will kick ass in a 2x4 or 3x3, at 1000ppfd, somewhere between 320-400w at 12-15”, 480w at 18”. The mapping for two 96s in this thread would be very useful in determining wattages and heights for propagation, veg, and flowering.

And, this format is prettymuch unitized, where additional units could be added every 20” or so for additional 2x4/almost 3x3 covearage per unit.

Considering that a similar fixture could be diy’d for 1/2 the listed price, i’d expect that retail customers would receive more info than available to diy customers. HLG should get with it and post par charts for retail fixtures..anytime soon @Stephenj37826 ?

I hope hlg does well with this great product, a major advancement in growlights.

These, some far red, and co2...a kickass combo!
 
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Or_Gro

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
CoB_nUt said:
Putting the nuggage on @22"! Splendid! I hate to be the one to ask, but what are the dimensions of the growspace again? Don't want to go back and look, I'm staring at the pic.
Click to expand...
Not mine, i don’t remember...it’s in here earlier...i think maybe close to 2.5x4....
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
trojanvirus said:
Not sure what part you are talking about.

The A driver, I don't like it; I would rather control from a pot away from the driver, especially that mine are on top of the frame. I found the dimmer produced abrupt changes when I dial it, and were not 0-100%; but maybe thats just me.

There are differences, the dimmer types...

View attachment 4242080

The A-types are not 3-in-1; you're suppose to just use the onboard pots. My comment regarding safety is that although the B-type has 3-in-1, the A-type is restricted (from my understanding).

Here's some more:

A Type – Adjustable Current and Voltage

The HLG-C A type are IP65 rated and include two on-board potentiometers that can adjust the output voltage and current. The potentiometers are found under the two black caps on the face of the power supply. The DC Voltage range can be adjusted ±10% whereas the current output can be adjusted from around 50%-100% of the current rating.

B Type – 3-in-1 Dimming

The B type HLG-C offers Mean Well’s dimming that can be controlled via 0-10V, 10V PWM Signal or Resistance.

Beyond that, I don't know. I am not trained as an electrical anything. I've seen what happens when you run the boards overpower and I don't know if the cause was the dimmer; that's my understanding (in regards to the molten dimmer).

I also don't like that in the video I posted (LEDGardener); although its a great video, I don't like that he didn't ground his pot. Call me paranoid.
Click to expand...
You said, "don't buy the A drivers" and "there is a safety risk you don't know" and I wanted only to tell you, there is no risk, bro!

Also have a look at the 3-in-1 dimming pic you posted above. One the dimmer wires are only 100μA from driver, no need to ground a poti.
If you use all three prongs of an 100k poti and use the third one for ground you will see serious dimming issues. Only wall dimmers have such a connector but these a usually PWM, Dali or 0-10v dimmers and each of them need a separate power source. Most wall dimmers use the 110v/230v comming from the wall and therefor have a ground connector. Rapidled has a small 6,50$ 0/1-10v dimmer using only the 100μA from the driver. It's the best available dimming solution currently because there is no need for a separate 10v power supply and you'll get the maximum out of the driver which can be up to 108% for B version drivers.

Forget that MW recommendation, bro! There is no need for a wall dimmer! Simply remote wire the rapidled dimmer to your needs.
 
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