Cree Cobs+Samsung F Series Gen 3s strip build

whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Talk about getting your amps worth... Hlg-320h-24B 13.34A max pushing that across (10) Sammy F562b strips. Not sure what max current on them are. Bc it doesnt show it in the datasheet for some reason. But that's 1333mA
@23.95vdc for 31.949w per strip. And theyve been running like that for quite awhile. With good sinking I imagine you could push 1800mA on them.
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The L06's will go inbetween these strips^^^^^ remove the cobs.




So I got some H inFlux_L06 strips I'm gonna pull the two cobs on the new light that I just put together. That has (4) F562b in 4k and (3) F562b in 3k. Leaves six opening in the light between the 7 strips. So I'm going to mount the L06s inbetween them. For some reason I ordered 5 the first time. Not realizing I needed 6. So I just ordered the 6th one about half hour ago. Itll be here friday. So hopefully I can pull the light out. At lights off Friday morning 4am. And have the strips mounted and installed before 4pm. The strip will be here by noon friday. So that gives me 4 hours. Maybe 5. And jus run an 11hr day cycle no biggie. And I still have to get a driver for them. Anyone got any ideas for (6) H inFlux_L06 560mm strips. At 22.4vdc they draw 1430mA so that's 8.580A so I'm thinking either a Hlg-240h-24a that's 10a max 240w or a LRS-200-24 which is 8.8A max 211.2w the difference is about 35 bucks. With the hlg series being more of course. Its 62 bucks shipped with tariff tax. Or I can get the LRS-200 for 27 shipped to my door. Both 2 day shipping. The only thing is idk how reliable the LRS will be being that close to 100%- load. Any got any info that's run those series of drivers?

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whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
And I got the strips from the corncob bulb hooked up n running. The driver for them had extra 12v source for fans that were inside it. So I took one of the fans from parts from the mars 192 light and heatsinks. Mounted them on the strips and fan.

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whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
jarvild said:
The harder you drive those f-strips the lower the eff . I like to run my strips at 1.1 amps or less.View attachment 4252204
Click to expand...
Yeah I'm gonna rebuild it. I wanna get my strips jus a tad closer together. And I used thermal grease the first time. The second light I used thermal tape. Which seems better. So I wanna take it apart and clean the strips and use thermal tape. Right now they are getting 1333mA per strip. And typ is 1120mA so I'm not running them to awful hard. I've read that 1800mA is max on them. But I'm not sure of that's true. Prob add a few more strips to bring down the 1333mA to around 1000mA. I have an extra 96 diode sunboard thay I need to put in place. But running only 10 strips it puts an odd number of spots so if I add another strip itll give me another spot for the sunboard in 2700k. So probably what I'll do.
 
jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
whytewidow said:
Yeah I'm gonna rebuild it. I wanna get my strips jus a tad closer together. And I used thermal grease the first time. The second light I used thermal tape. Which seems better. So I wanna take it apart and clean the strips and use thermal tape. Right now they are getting 1333mA per strip. And typ is 1120mA so I'm not running them to awful hard. I've read that 1800mA is max on them. But I'm not sure of that's true. Prob add a few more strips to bring down the 1333mA to around 1000mA. I have an extra 96 diode sunboard thay I need to put in place. But running only 10 strips it puts an odd number of spots so if I add another strip itll give me another spot for the sunboard in 2700k. So probably what I'll do.
Click to expand...
Really no need for thermal paste or tape when ran at the tested amps. There designed as retrofits for t-5 high bay lighting, In the retro-fits they just use plastic clips to hold the strips to the old luminaries.
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
jarvild said:
Really no need for thermal paste or tape when ran at the tested amps. There designed as retrofits for t-5 high bay lighting, In the retro-fits they just use plastic clips to hold the strips to the old luminaries.
Click to expand...
Yeah but I run a packed tent. I just prefer tape with a few screws for safety... plus I'm mounted on flush 2x2 extruded alum tubing. Dont have really any other way to attach it. Gonna put 2 more for a total 12 strips. To bring the current down some. To 1110mA per strip. With the (6) 96 diode sunboard strips. For a total of 1440 diodes.
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
jarvild said:
9-10 strips per HLG 240H-24B
Click to expand...
I just ordered 2 more f562b strips. To rebuild my light from 10 strips to 12. And I'm debating on getting regular heatsinks from heatsinkusa. Only 100 bucks for enough to completely rebuild my big light. Plus heatsinks for the 6 H inFlux_L06 strips I'm putting on my other light. I know I dont heatsinks bc they will be below typ current. But wont hurt to have them. To make them run even cooler. Which makes them even more efficient. And just makes it easier to mount them bc I run in a tent.
 
jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
3/4" u-channel. strips where pop riveted to the u-channel.
Personally, I don't believe you need the Heatsinks USA sinks to keep the strips cool. In my garden the heatsinks run warmer than the U-channels.
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
jarvild said:
3/4" u-channel. strips where pop riveted to the u-channel.
Personally, I don't believe you need the Heatsinks USA sinks to keep the strips cool. In my garden the heatsinks run warmer than the U-channels.
Click to expand...
Yeah the new light I jus built I used the same thing. 3/4 U channel. I may just do that again for the rebuild. The only reason I'm thinkn heatsinks is bc right now. My state isnt very friendly. But on the heels of legalizing. And when it does I wanna get outta tents and into a spare open room I have that's 20' × 18' and I'll wanna crank up strips as much as I can to make up for the lack of reflective walls later on down the road. That's really my only reason for heatsinks.
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
jarvild said:
3/4" u-channel. strips where pop riveted to the u-channel.
Personally, I don't believe you need the Heatsinks USA sinks to keep the strips cool. In my garden the heatsinks run warmer than the U-channels.
Click to expand...
What size heatsinks did you use that run hotter than the U channel the 1" profile sinks?
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
jarvild said:
Yes, the 1" profiles. Running at 1.12 amps the u-channel is just barely warm where the heatsinks are running hotter. I attribute some of that to the tight spacing of the cooling fins not allowing enough air circulation between them for passive cooling.
Click to expand...
Yeah only being 1" it doesnt leave a lot of room for spacing the fine. I'll prob just use the U channel. And save myself 80 bucks. And I have a ton of heatsinks thatll fit down inside the u channel if need be.
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
And it has begun. Laid out my parts and cut my alum 1×1 tubing. At 24" mark all my holes. And drilled them. Then wet sanded the aluminum. And wiped it down with iso alcohol. Let it dry. 20181224_001600.jpg 20181224_001614.jpg


Applied the thermal tape to the back of the strips. My tape is wider than the strip on purpose. To take sure the entire bottom get covered.
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Then applied them to tubing. And trimmed excess tape off for a clean quick install.

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