Need a diagnosis

12SQFT

Well-Known Member
My leaves are curling badly and I need some help. . . . its been about two or three days anyone have an idea what it could be?!?!?!?!
The Info:
Hydro set-up flood and drain 2x daily 5 min ea.
3 Plants started from clones 3-4 weeks old (10"-14" tall)
using rockwool cubes
20/4 light cycles with (1) 250w MH and (1) 250w HPS Sun Systems VII combo balast with 2 bulbs and reflector
light its about 12-14" away pH is about 5.8
Using FloraNova at 1/2 strength with Floralicious supplements
Thanks again to anyone who can help out. . . .here are some pics to help





 

12SQFT

Well-Known Member
ya I am pretty sure they are get enough water I flood twice daily. . . I orginally overwatered and have been recovering ever since, plants were looking good but leaves are real curly along with slow growth and small leaves?!?!? this all cannot be just from not watering besides the bottom of the rockwool seems to be nice and moist but not soggy. . . any more ideas????
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
This is something I wrote for another site:

Overfeeding, Use of Too Strong Nutrients
The leaves will curl downward. They grow very dark dull flat green and then the tips show signs of burn.
It is time to follow the 8 Step Remedy.
THE 8 STEP RECUPERATION AND RECOVERY REMEDY

1. Check the roots. If they are discolored, reddish or brown, or present an unpleasant odor, you have a problem. If they are weak, soft or mushy, you have a problem. Also while checking the roots, observe the temperature of the water. If it is warmer than "luke warm" you have a problem. This problem is probably what is referred to as "root rot" or a disease known as PYTHIUM. Remove the dead brown roots by trimming them away with sharp scissors. Do not leave them in the tank.
2. Check the humidity and temperature of the grow area below the lights in the "growing zone" when the lights are on. A temperature of above 82 degrees or below 67 degrees will slow growth, but it is not a serious problem that will kill your plants. Temperatures below 62 degrees or above 90 degrees will stop growth. An extremely high temperature in the upper 90s or below 58 degrees can slowly result in death of your plants. The most efficient temps for growth are between 72 to 80 degrees. Any Humidity between 40 and 60 percent is acceptable and desirable.
3. Check the "lights off, nighttime" temperature. Most desirable is ten to 15 degrees cooler than the daytime "lights on" temperature, averaging 66 to 70 degrees.
4. Check the distance between the tips of the plant and the tip of the light bulb. If you observe yellowing or leaf curling tips, then move the lights one inch further away. A good rule of thumb if you use HID lights, is hold the soft palm of your hand at the leaf tip and see if the bulb is too warm to your hand. If you use Stealth Hydro's compact fluorescent bulbs, we recommend a distance of three or four inches for the 65 and 85 watt bulbs and 4 inches to five inches for the 105 watt bulbs. More mature plants can handle the bulbs slightly closer.
5. Check the position of your fans. Air movement is very necessary for the health of your plants, but too strong of a fan can cause wind burn. Direct your fan toward the tops of the plants and toward the lights. Never position the fan blowing strongly downward on the leaves.
6. Add 1/4 teaspoon of hydrogen peroxide to a quart of water and add it to the tank of six gallons already in the tank. Wait ten minutes and then turn the water and nutrition solution pump off to prepare to drain the tank. Poor at least a cup of clean water through each grow cup, onto each rockwool cube and through the hydroton rocks.
7. Drain or pump the tank empty as possible without damaging the pump by running it dry. Add two gallons of additional clean water with 1/4 teaspoon of hydrogen peroxide again and then drain it away too. Again, empty the tank as empty as possible without burning up your pump.
8. Add fresh PH balanced water and nutritional packets as prescribed. PH test it again.
 

12SQFT

Well-Known Member
wow thanks for all the info humidity is on the low side about 30-35% and how can I see if I have root rot if the plants are growing in rockwool and i cant break it open or pull it out to check the roots and they havents come close to the bottom of the cube to the best of my knowlege. . . a little more info: leaves are a light green color with small curled leaves could this be nitrogen deficient?
 

12SQFT

Well-Known Member
Roseman:
Noticed ur sig on the post and wanna grow a mother with cfls in a bubbleponics systems. . .

how much light should she be getting to thrive and produce strong clones?

I want just one plant, I got one bathtub for space and (2) 23 watt(100w equiv.) cfl and 2 46 watt (150w equiv) cfl totaling 500watt equiv. would this work for vegging her on an 20/4 light cycles?

She would be in rockwool with hydroton and mesh baskets unless otherwise suggested

I would like to use just one 5 gallon container

I have an air pump with 2 stones to bubble and some extra floraNova nutes

anything you can tell me before I start that would make the process easier to get going and should I start my mother from seed or first gen clone?

If seed what bank do you rec. and if clone I think I can get my hands on a good one let me kno what you think thanks a bunch Mr. ganja
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
wow thanks for all the info humidity is on the low side about 30-35% and how can I see if I have root rot if the plants are growing in rockwool and i cant break it open or pull it out to check the roots and they havents come close to the bottom of the cube to the best of my knowlege. . . a little more info: leaves are a light green color with small curled leaves could this be nitrogen deficient?
You can place saucers of water around the plants, or lay wet towels or wet rags nearby. I also MIST mine twice a day, during the VEG stage. BUT NOT THE BLOOM STAGE.
I do not understand or have knowledge of a system that you can not view the roots, so I don;t know how to answer that one.
CURLED leaves are usually a sign of over feeding or NUTE LOCKOUT. They are NOT nitrogen deficient, in my humble opinion.
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
how much light should she be getting to thrive and produce strong clones?

I have seen a healthy plant, ONE PLANT, grown under two 42 watt CFLs and the plant was healthy and happy. But that does not change the fact that the more light, the happier and healthier, when using CFLs. If you can afford it, get some 65, 85 or 105 watt bulbs when you can. With a good reflector and 3 105 watt CFLS, you can almost, nearly duplicate the suns' light.


She would be in rockwool with hydroton and mesh baskets unless otherwise suggested That is the only way I do it.

I have two 5 gallon buckets now, $9.00 with lids, from Walmart. They work great for 3 plants, although I ususally wind up with only one or two, after they SEX and show gender.

I have an air pump with 2 stones to bubble and some extra floraNova nutes Go slow with the nutes on baby plants.

anything you can tell me before I start that would make the process easier to get going and should I start my mother from seed or first gen clone? do you have a submersive pump to feed the babies in the bucket or are you introducing clones to the buckets?
I have not had great experience with CLONES. I can easily make a clone, but it always gives me a stunted plant or a plant smaller than the ones I started from seed. If you start THREE from seed, you ought tog et one female, at least.
AND, always spray your area with HOME GUARD or a good pesticide FIRST, before you start anything. I do not know how spider mites get in my house, in the bedroom, and into the closet to get to my plants but they do and will. I've seen many sad stories posted here from growers that wasted 7 to 9 weeks to losoe it to spider mites and pests.
If seed what bank do you rec.
You will have to ask someone else, I try not to answer questions that I don;t have experience doing.
and if clone I think I can get my hands on a good one let me kno what you think
Again, You will have to ask someone else, I try not to answer questions that I don;t have experience doing.
 

12SQFT

Well-Known Member
Roseman:
you asked "do you have a submersive pump to feed the babies in the bucket or are you introducing clones to the buckets?"

do you mean air pump or water pump can you explain im not sure what you mean. . . not sure if im gonna use a clone or seed but what would be the difference in feeding them I dont follow?!?!?! Do you mean if I start from seed I'll need a dripper to feed the babies until they show roots then bubble them where as clones have roots that will almost immediately grow down into DWC?
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
Roseman:
you asked "do you have a submersive pump to feed the babies in the bucket or are you introducing clones to the buckets?"

do you mean air pump or water pump can you explain im not sure what you mean. . . not sure if im gonna use a clone or seed but what would be the difference in feeding them I dont follow?!?!?! Do you mean if I start from seed I'll need a dripper to feed the babies until they show roots then bubble them where as clones have roots that will almost immediately grow down into DWC?

A water pump. Bubbleponics is a registered trademark word, and it means or utilizes the flow of water enriched with nutrients to each cup and root base. Plants normally start very slow in a DWC system, until the roots grow through the air pocket and hit the deep water. BUBBLEPONICs USES A IRRIGATION HUB AND A WATER PUMP, TO DISTRIBUTE THE WATER TO EACH CUP AND ROOT BASE. You can view them at Stealthhydro.com

Do you mean if I start from seed I'll need a dripper to feed the babies
YES
 

12SQFT

Well-Known Member
Bro, you got to read and study, read and study and then get some hands on experience.

read and study read and study? I understood what you said?!?!? I even explained it I know how bubbleponics works I gave examples of clone or seed and needing a dripper what did I miss?
 
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