Cree Cobs+Samsung F Series Gen 3s strip build

[whytewidow]

The wide strip in the middle is a Sunboard in 2700k with Lm561c s6 diodes. I have 5 of them on my big flower light now. With (10) Samsung F562b strips in 3k. I'm adding two F562b strips to the light for a total of (12) F562b strips in 3k, and (6) Sunboards in 2700k.

The 12 Sammys are gonna pushed by a HLG-320H-24B driver. That pushes right at 13.33A @23.95vdc and the (6) Sunboards are being driven by a HLG-240H-24A driver. Puts out 10.48A @25.7vdc they are 50 watt strips with 96 diodes on them.

So I'll have 1440 diodes spread out across a 23" × 44" alum frame.

(576) 2700k Lm561c s6 diodes
(864) 3000k Lm561c s6 diodes
Pushed just @560watts


Shot of the sunboard diodes


Shot of the H inFlux_L06 Lm301b diodes. For the other light.

 

[Randomblame]

And it has begun. Laid out my parts and cut my alum 1×1 tubing. At 24" mark all my holes. And drilled them. Then wet sanded the aluminum. And wiped it down with iso alcohol. Let it dry. View attachment 4254257 View attachment 4254258


Applied the thermal tape to the back of the strips. My tape is wider than the strip on purpose. To take sure the entire bottom get covered.
View attachment 4254259 View attachment 4254260


Then applied them to tubing. And trimmed excess tape off for a clean quick install.

View attachment 4254261

Why did you use alu tubing this time? You'll get much better cooling from U-channels unless you blow air thru the tubes. They keep the heat inside just like the 1" profiles from heatsinkusa with their teight fin spacings. One need ~50cm² surface area per watt LED for passive cooling and with tubing you'll lose half the available surface area unless you use a small 12v centrifugal blower fan. But yeah, it will work and keep them cool enough even without fan. So I imagine you run out of U-channels and use what you have laying around?

 

[whytewidow]

Why did you use alu tubing this time? You'll get much better cooling from U-channels unless you blow air thru the tubes. They keep the heat inside just like the 1" profiles from heatsinkusa with their teight fin spacings. One need ~50cm² surface area per watt LED for passive cooling and with tubing you'll lose half the available surface area unless you use a small 12v centrifugal blower fan. But yeah, it will work and keep them cool enough even without fan. So I imagine you run out of U-channels and use what you have laying around?

Yup I didnt have enough. And neither lowes or home depot had any U channel wide enough. They didnt have any 1" wide u channel. And the H inFlux_L06 are wider than 3/4 channel that they had in stock. I'll use 3/4 channel on the rebuild of the f562b light.

Edit: I will put slots in the top side of the square tubing. To let heat escape so it doesnt have to travel the length of the tube before it escapes.

 

[whytewidow]

Got my two other strips to add to my big light. That has 10 Samsung f562bs on. Going to have 12 total on a HLG-320H-24B driver. And 6 sunboards with Lm561c s6 diodes. Changing from the big homemade heatsinks, to U channel. To lighten the frame. Its heavy as hell. Right now the 10 strips are being pushed at 1333mA. Adding two more will drop it down below typ current of 1120mA to 1110mA per strip @23.95vdc for 26.604w per strip. I probably should've got a hlg-185h-24A for the sunboards. But I already have the hlg-240h-24a driver pushing the 5 now. But should've used the 240h I have now pushing those to use on the H inFlux_L06 strips. And bought a 185h instead of another 240h. The max is on the sunboards is 2500mA but that's pushing them hard. Right now I'm pushing them 2000mA adding another strip will bring it down some to 1667mA. If I wouldve bought the 185h its only 7.8A instead of 10.0A which wouldve run the sunboards lower @1300mA. So I may buy a 185h and keep the 240h I just bought for back up.

 

[whytewidow]

Merry Christmas from my family to yours....

WhyteWidow

 

[whytewidow]

Pulled the cobs off of the new strip light. And installed the (6) Samsung H inFlux_L06 4k strips. 13 strips total... (4) f562b 4k strips on a HLG-150-24B driver, (3) f562b 3k strips on a Hlg-120h-24A driver, and the (6) H inFlux_L06 strips are being pushed on a Hlg-240h-24A driver.

She should flower very well. 510+ watts.

She has
(52 Lm301b diodes
(504) Lm561c diodes
For a total of 1032 diodes.

 

[Randomblame]

Pulled the cobs off of the new strip light. And installed the (6) Samsung H inFlux_L06 4k strips. 13 strips total... (4) f562b 4k strips on a HLG-150-24B driver, (3) f562b 3k strips on a Hlg-120h-24A driver, and the (6) H inFlux_L06 strips are being pushed on a Hlg-240h-24A driver.

She should flower very well. 510+ watts.

She has
(52 Lm301b diodes
(504) Lm561c diodes
For a total of 1032 diodes.


View attachment 4255029 View attachment 4255030 View attachment 4255031 View attachment 4255032 View attachment 4255033 View attachment 4255034 View attachment 4255035 View attachment 4255036

What a beast! Nice an clean!
Seems you have already recognized these LED DIY stuff is a pretty hard drug. Makes immediately addicted with the first try.

 

[whytewidow]

What a beast! Nice an clean!
Seems you have already recognized these LED DIY stuff is a pretty hard drug. Makes immediately addicted with the first try.

Yeah I'm rebuilding my big light too. Had to wait till home depot got some more channel in. Adding two more f562b strips. For a total of 12. And adding another 2700k sunboard lm561c 96 diode strip. For a total of 22 strips. Pushing about 780+ watts. The 12 f562b 3ks pushed on a Hlg-480h-24a driver, six of the sunboard lm561c s6 96 diode strips on a Hlg-240h-24a driver, and the 4 custom made red strips on a LPV-60-24 driver. I wanna get my strips just a little bit closer on it. Right now they are spread out a little too far. And on huge 2x2 square thick wall tubing. Gonna lighten it up some. And make the frame a little smaller.

 

[Randomblame]

You definately pushing the limits with such a hell lot of lights, bro.
I don't like my strips so close together for me its more interesting to have the best possible coverage. My lil' cab is 50x 28" and my fixture is 48 x 24". The widest gap between the strips I've in the center and the gaps getting smaller to the outta sides. This way I get +80% uniformity acoss the entire canopy with a distance of only 6-8". At 8" I get ~85klx out of 323w F-strips + COBs. The only height limiting factor are my UVB tubes. To get good coverage and no center hotspot I need at least 14".

Thats my naked frame...




COB heatsinks are just a little wider 25x 35x 25mm and I've glued another small 20x 15x 20mm U-channel inside to add another 2 fins. Works perfect and is 10 times cheaper like extruded heatsinks in 4ft length. These cheap blue e3ay thermal tape does a good job.

 

[Vd22]

I love your thread whyte.
How spaced were your lights, and how close are you aiming. I wanna show you mine and show you how i mounted my driver. I get a kick out of it everytime i see it

 

[Vd22]

mine are spaced from diode to diode
3 1/2 inches To 4 1/2 inches
Im running 12 strips on a 320. Im changing soon. These are all 3000k.
I have
(25) 3000k (5) 4000k (10) 5000k
Hlg
150 240 320
I bought usa heatsink, because its near same price of u channels. And i love the look, fuck it. How would you rig up these strips & drivers. I wanna see if we're thinking alike, and if not maybe i like you're idea more haha

Random please shoot me your input too. All welcome

 

[Rocket Soul]

You definately pushing the limits with such a hell lot of lights, bro.
I don't like my strips so close together for me its more interesting to have the best possible coverage. My lil' cab is 50x 28" and my fixture is 48 x 24". The widest gap between the strips I've in the center and the gaps getting smaller to the outta sides. This way I get +80% uniformity acoss the entire canopy with a distance of only 6-8". At 8" I get ~85klx out of 323w F-strips + COBs. The only height limiting factor are my UVB tubes. To get good coverage and no center hotspot I need at least 14".

Thats my naked frame...


View attachment 4255054

COB heatsinks are just a little wider 25x 35x 25mm and I've glued another small 20x 15x 20mm U-channel inside to add another 2 fins. Works perfect and is 10 times cheaper like extruded heatsinks in 4ft length. These cheap blue e3ay thermal tape does a good job.

View attachment 4255055

Fantastic build, your stuff is allways impressive. Ive also been diying heatsinks from u-channels, its much cheaper around were i am. Id like to ask about the cob-sinks:
How many mm thick is the u-channel?
And how many watts per cob?
And how whats the total watts per cob-heatsink?
Happy holidays!

 

[Randomblame]

Fantastic build, your stuff is allways impressive. Ive also been diying heatsinks from u-channels, its much cheaper around were i am. Id like to ask about the cob-sinks:
How many mm thick is the u-channel?
And how many watts per cob?
And how whats the total watts per cob-heatsink?
Happy holidays!

Thanks, mate!
Channels are all 2mm thick, strips and COB's get only ~450mA. Thats ~10w per 2ft strip and 14,5w each CRI90 COB. Each COB bar has 4 COB's and 3 XP-E's in far-red and with the next break I'll add another 12 Osram Square deep-reds(10w each heatsink). Currently ~65w per 4ft. heatsink. Heatsinks temps stabilized ~12-15°C above ambient, so with 30°C ambient COB heatsink stabilized at 42-45°C. F-strip channels are 8-10° cooler, btw.
With less canopy distance the fixture gets more airflow from my 2 180mm plant fans and temps stay up to 3° cooler.

 

[PSUAGRO.]

Nice builds, beastly for sure.......

 

[whytewidow]

I love your thread whyte.
How spaced were your lights, and how close are you aiming. I wanna show you mine and show you how i mounted my driver. I get a kick out of it everytime i see it

I'm inside a 2x4 tent. So I made my frame 46x23 and it's a pain in the ass getting it in the tent. And I didnt pay attention to what they were on centers. I just did the end two then the center. And just kept putting the center one in on every space. But I had to leave gaps big enough bc I have the 10 sammy strips. Then I put 5 sunboards in the gaps. Then the 4 red strips. But it's running my Sammy's a little harder than id like. Not they arent taking it and rockn my grows. But not as efficient pushing them harder. And I have an extra 96 diode sunboard. But to add it to the light it made it not be even on on every gap. So I'm adding two more f562b strips to give me another space. For the extra sunboard I have. So I ordered two more strips. Which will bring down my current per strip. And get me below typ current. Which will make them more efficient than driving them hard. So running 12 strips gives me 6 gaps between the f562b strips. So adding them two extra let's me add the extra sunboard. Bc I'm running 5 of them on a HLG-240H-24A so they are being pushed at 2A per strip. They max out at 2.5A so adding the extra one drops my current per strip to 1666mA instead of 2A. So they will be more efficient as well. And not driven as hard. And then after I mount the two extra f562b strips and the extra sunboard. I'll space out the reds evenly in the gaps between the f562b snd sunboard strips.


The biggest reason is to add and use the extra sunboard strip I have. And to make the frame lighter and easier to get in outta the tent. Bc right now it's a nightmare getting it in n out. And to adjust it up n down bc it's so heavy. Bc I used thickwall 2x2 aluminum square tubing. It's super heavy. Plus rebuilding my frame let's me add more strips to both drivers to not run them as hard. To make em more efficient and lighter.


You can see how far apart I put strips. I think a little to far apart. But I have the sunboards between those. And the reds I'm gonna reuse too. I wasnt sure how warm the strips would run. Bc when I built this one. Was the first strips I had ever used. So I made sure they had good sinking with the giant tubes. And fans blowing through them. Dont need all that. So when i rebuild I'll use channel and 1x1 tubing. Only bc the sunboards ste already mounted to thickwall 1x1. So I'll just reuse those. And use 3/4" U channel for the f562bs.

 

[Rocket Soul]

Thanks, mate!
Channels are all 2mm thick, strips and COB's get only ~450mA. Thats ~10w per 2ft strip and 14,5w each CRI90 COB. Each COB bar has 4 COB's and 3 XP-E's in far-red and with the next break I'll add another 12 Osram Square deep-reds(10w each heatsink). Currently ~65w per 4ft. heatsink. Heatsinks temps stabilized ~12-15°C above ambient, so with 30°C ambient COB heatsink stabilized at 42-45°C. F-strip channels are 8-10° cooler, btw.
With less canopy distance the fixture gets more airflow from my 2 180mm plant fans and temps stay up to 3° cooler.

Have you checked the case temp of the cobs? Basicly im irying to figure out how thick i need my c-channels for 15-20 w cobs and i feel somewhat unsure if 2 mm is enough to pull the heat out of the cob to be dissipated by the heat sink.

 

[whytewidow]

Have you checked the case temp of the cobs? Basicly im irying to figure out how thick i need my c-channels for 15-20 w cobs and i feel somewhat unsure if 2 mm is enough to pull the heat out of the cob to be dissipated by the heat sink.

If you're only running them that low on wattage why not just use PC heat sinks? And two pieces of angle turned up. And then you can also slide the cobs where ever you want them. Or are you wanting to mount them solid?

 

[Rocket Soul]

Its a supplemental bar in between larger (3 x 1 foot) boards. Not sure of final setup but looks like cob, strip, cob on about 3 feet of bar, at about 50-60w total. Also cant be arsed with active heatsinks, more wiring more problems

 

[whytewidow]

Its a supplemental bar in between larger (3 x 1 foot) boards. Not sure of final setup but looks like cob, strip, cob on about 3 feet of bar, at about 50-60w total. Also cant be arsed with active heatsinks, more wiring more problems

Oh gotcha.

 

[whytewidow]

Its a supplemental bar in between larger (3 x 1 foot) boards. Not sure of final setup but looks like cob, strip, cob on about 3 feet of bar, at about 50-60w total. Also cant be arsed with active heatsinks, more wiring more problems

I'm doing away with active sinking too.