How much water to water a 5 gallon bucket?

[Jimdamick]

Also, what contaminates magically form that weren't already available to your previous plant??

No magic too it.
It's simply a fact that after 90 days of feeding a pot of soil 1000 PPM's of nutes your soil will have excessive salt buildup that all the microbes in the world won't be able to deal with.
Unless you have an extremely active organic base, like actually worms in your soil, your soil will die.
No mystery here.
Oh, and that plant ain't nothing to write home about by the way.
It looks like it could use fresh soil.

 

[ShedsAndTents]

No magic too it.
It's simply a fact that after 90 days of feeding a pot of soil 1000 PPM's of nutes your soil will have excessive salt buildup that all the microbes in the world won't be able to deal with.
Unless you have an extremely active organic base, like actually worms in your soil, your soil will die.
No mystery here.
Oh, and that plant ain't nothing to write home about by the way.
It looks like it could use fresh soil.

I like your theory but my 3 week veg plant is proof.

Bring something to the table worth eating.

I wonder who gives the rainforest fresh soil? Oh wait, that's only a cannabis grower thing lol

Get outta here with your theories before I slap ya with some science.

 

[ShedsAndTents]

No magic too it.
It's simply a fact that after 90 days of feeding a pot of soil 1000 PPM's of nutes your soil will have excessive salt buildup that all the microbes in the world won't be able to deal with.
Unless you have an extremely active organic base, like actually worms in your soil, your soil will die.
No mystery here.
Oh, and that plant ain't nothing to write home about by the way.
It looks like it could use fresh soil.

Tried to find a thread of yours that isn't about trump, seems like you like him more than you'll admit.

 

[ShedsAndTents]

No magic too it.
It's simply a fact that after 90 days of feeding a pot of soil 1000 PPM's of nutes your soil will have excessive salt buildup that all the microbes in the world won't be able to deal with.
Unless you have an extremely active organic base, like actually worms in your soil, your soil will die.
No mystery here.
Oh, and that plant ain't nothing to write home about by the way.
It looks like it could use fresh soil.

I'd also like to point out a flaw in your statement. Microbes only grow as needed. When there is bountiful amounts of phosphorus available in soil, mycorrhizal fungi are not fed exudates from plant roots limiting cell replication. Similar to a plethora of other mycorrhizal fungi and symbiotic bacteria.

Why don't ya read teeming with microbes to start (Jeff lowenfel) Dr. Ingram is a good one and pretty much people who actually know what they're talking about if you don't want to take it from me

 

[bearded.beaver]

No magic too it.
It's simply a fact that after 90 days of feeding a pot of soil 1000 PPM's of nutes your soil will have excessive salt buildup that all the microbes in the world won't be able to deal with.
Unless you have an extremely active organic base, like actually worms in your soil, your soil will die.
No mystery here.
Oh, and that plant ain't nothing to write home about by the way.
It looks like it could use fresh soil.

Why would you be feeding your soil 1000 ppm of nutrients?
I grow in soil and the only thing I feed is my soil. EWC teas, SST, kelp meal. I don't add salt so why would it build up?

 

[Jimdamick]

Why would you be feeding your soil 1000 ppm of nutrients?
I grow in soil and the only thing I feed is my soil. EWC teas, SST, kelp meal. I don't add salt so why would it build up?

My tap water is 338 PPM, and by adding basic nutes, like Technaflora Grow/Bloom, some Cal Mag it usually ended up being around 1000 PPM.
Do you test your teas?

 

[Kingrow1]

I'd also like to point out a flaw in your statement. Microbes only grow as needed. When there is bountiful amounts of phosphorus available in soil, mycorrhizal fungi are not fed exudates from plant roots limiting cell replication. Similar to a plethora of other mycorrhizal fungi and symbiotic bacteria.

Why don't ya read teeming with microbes to start (Jeff lowenfel) Dr. Ingram is a good one and pretty much people who actually know what they're talking about if you don't want to take it from me

Teaming with microbes is vastly wrong, forget that shit and proceed straight to wiki.

 

[vostok]

How much water should be used when watering a 5 gallon bucket. I assume about 2 but I just want to be sure.

Lift the 5usg

THINK

then apply the thought

what you use as a surfactant...?

 

[bearded.beaver]

My tap water is 338 PPM, and by adding basic nutes, like Technaflora Grow/Bloom, some Cal Mag it usually ended up being around 1000 PPM.
Do you test your teas?

Again You are using salt based nutrients, so you would have a salt build up.

no I dont test my teas, as there is no need to do so. Nature doesn't test ppm or ph why should I unless I have a major problem

 

[SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe]

Is that an earthbox in your pic?

 

[SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe]

Tried to find a thread of yours that isn't about trump, seems like you like him more than you'll admit.

^^^^ made me spit my coffee out. Thanks ya dick! It is true and funny as fuck though hahaha!

 

[bearded.beaver]

yeah that an earth box in my pic

 

[Jimdamick]

Again You are using salt based nutrients, so you would have a salt build up.

no I dont test my teas, as there is no need to do so. Nature doesn't test ppm or ph why should I unless I have a major problem

If you don't know what you are giving your plants, then you will have problems.
Mother Nature doesn't exist in a grow room, really.
Think about that

 

[SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe]

yeah that an earth box in my pic

How do you like it? I'm thinking about grabbing a few and using coast of maine. Any pointers

 

[mustbetribbin]

Once the soil reaches its saturation point the amount given after this, will not matter as frequency is most important, you don't want your container to dry out completely as this only works with drought tolerant species such as succulents or cacti, and some trees ect, but most all other plant will be better off maintaining some moisture even it appears on the surface to be dry, larger containers have an advantage in this aspect because they hold the residual moisture better than a small container does, it's best to have a properly matched container if you want to optimize your watering routine/schedule, for soil grows anyhow.

I've seen people dunk the entire container down underwater to water their plants in the past, I don't recommend it as you just loose to much soil this way, what I do recommend is watering your plants over a 30 minute period to allow the soil to absorb all the water that you are giving it, just look at nature, how long does a system of thunderstorms usually last 30 mins to more than a few hours at times, this is because nature is designed to allow time for the soil to reach its hydration/ saturation point.

I do see the point in trying to figure the exact amount of water that the plant needs for water conservation and $$$ saving measures, but I know for certain time should be added into the equation when we water our plants.

This is why over flow and watering tables work well also btw because the soil is slowly (time) allowed to absorb what it needs without getting overly saturated, I'm a firm believer in top watering though for mature soil grown plants, nature is the greatest teacher in many aspects.

 

[ShedsAndTents]

Why would you be feeding your soil 1000 ppm of nutrients?
I grow in soil and the only thing I feed is my soil. EWC teas, SST, kelp meal. I don't add salt so why would it build up?

I feed my soil too, but my soil is 3 grows old that super soil is long gone and I'm not interested in ammending it as it works just fine until I decide to go the fox farm route.

Teaming with microbes is vastly wrong, forget that shit and proceed straight to wiki.

Lol I'm sorry, wrong about what?
I'm assuming you've yet to read it or scientific studies for that matter.

Once the soil reaches its saturation point the amount given after this, will not matter as frequency is most important, you don't want your container to dry out completely as this only works with drought tolerant species such as succulents or cacti, and some trees ect, but most all other plant will be better off maintaining some moisture even it appears on the surface to be dry, larger containers have an advantage in this aspect because they hold the residual moisture better than a small container does, it's best to have a properly matched container if you want to optimize your watering routine/schedule, for soil grows anyhow.

I've seen people dunk the entire container down underwater to water their plants in the past, I don't recommend it as you just loose to much soil this way, what I do recommend is watering your plants over a 30 minute period to allow the soil to absorb all the water that you are giving it, just look at nature, how long does a system of thunderstorms usually last 30 mins to more than a few hours at times, this is because nature is designed to allow time for the soil to reach its hydration/ saturation point.

I do see the point in trying to figure the exact amount of water that the plant needs for water conservation and $$$ saving measures, but I know for certain time should be added into the equation when we water our plants.

This is why over flow and watering tables work well also btw because the soil is slowly (time) allowed to absorb what it needs without getting overly saturated, I'm a firm believer in top watering though for mature soil grown plants, nature is the greatest teacher in many aspects.

You are absolutely correct.
This is provable by:
Try dumping your full watering on to your plant at once, feel the weight.
Next time, try watering your container 1/2 the volume first, then a bowl/cigarette/shit later water the other half and feel the weight.

Instant gratification is human thing, not a nature thing....

If only lol....

 

[Kingrow1]

I feed my soil too, but my soil is 3 grows old that super soil is long gone and I'm not interested in ammending it as it works just fine until I decide to go the fox farm route.



Lol I'm sorry, wrong about what?
I'm assuming you've yet to read it or scientific studies for that matter.



You are absolutely correct.
This is provable by:
Try dumping your full watering on to your plant at once, feel the weight.
Next time, try watering your container 1/2 the volume first, then a bowl/cigarette/shit later water the other half and feel the weight.

Instant gratification is human thing, not a nature thing....

If only lol....

I have read it and its been discussed here many times why its glaringly wrong.

Kinda getting an old topic now, good luck with your bacillus culture and soggy un-oxygenated swamp soil but ill just stick to doing things thecright way

 

[bearded.beaver]

@SoMe_EfFin_MasS_HoLe
Earth boxes are good. But there are cheaper no name ones and even did ones. It does have its own challenges though. Especially indoors. The soil stays moist so fungus gnats can be an issue. And you're walking a fine line with it being anaerobic. EM1 or other anaerobic microbes help. And your soil has to be able to wick the water. So peat based soil. I've heard of other guys using coco based soil but I haven't tried that yet.
My first grow was outdoors with a super soil mix and it was great.

 

[bearded.beaver]

@Jimdamick
I do know what I'm adding. I am adding microbes and life to my soil. My soil mix itself is based on Clackamas Coot's recipe soil my soil has all the nutrient the plant needs. When adding earth worm castings and kelp meal add microbes and food for the microbes. It's the microbes in the soil that break down nutrients to feed my plant. The plants roots put out exudates which feed/tell the right microbes to bring in the nutrients the plant needs at the proper time. Nature has been doing it that way since the beginning. And the microbes will bloom and die off as they are needed naturally. All I need to do now is top dress with a wide variety of food for my microbes and the plant and microbes do the rest. The only time you might have deficiencies or excess amounts of anything is in the beginning as the soil is balancing itself out.

 

[Michael Huntherz]

yeh the only thing that matters if your factoring in plant size, is how often your gonna water no matter how much water you give it each feeding. 1 full gallon of water for a 5 gallon bag is just fine, and youll water it more than likely every 3-4 days. My plants are pretty thirsty, 2 days after each watering they get a little growth spurt in them, which means that theyre searching for more moisture in the bag, and stretching their roots out to find it. I give it two more days beyond the spurt to dry out the soil. This has happened every single time i water without exception, and itll continue to happen through flowering, only the buds will swell rather than the plant get taller and bushier. I use 3 full gallons of soil, and i only feed my plants about 3/5 of a gallon every time, and i still need 4 solid days between waterings.

There is no way to give someone your prescription for success, everyone’s set up has variables. Every grow space has different needs, but prescriptive direction like this is a dead end.

Me?
I'm using some soil from my last 2 grows. I think it was a bag of miracle grow with that 5$ bag of perlite from walmart mixed into a 1.5cuft bag of soil. And a hint of super soil mix from natures living soil.
It's been reused about 2 times on its third time now.

Btw I collect that runoff for the next feeding.

Oh my fuck, that’s so terrible.

...you have obviously never heard of no-till...No such thing as salt build up in my soil, and I'm not organic.
Also, roots leave behind exudates, these entice bacteria to form a symbiotic Mycorrhizae where the plants can reach nutrients previously unavailable.

Yes lol I am a...fuck

I bet you don’t know the actual definitions of salt, organic, exudate, or symbiotic.
This post is imprecise enough that I am certain of it. Stop talking about things you don’t understand as if you are an authority, it is ugly. I left in the parts I found frighteningly rude and/or stupid. Jim is an asshole, but he isn’t wrong.

Nature doesn't test ppm or ph why should I unless I have a major problem

@Jimdamick
I do know what I'm adding. I am adding microbes and life to my soil. My soil mix itself is based on Clackamas Coot's recipe soil my soil has all the nutrient the plant needs. When adding earth worm castings and kelp meal add microbes and food for the microbes. It's the microbes in the soil that break down nutrients to feed my plant. The plants roots put out exudates which feed/tell the right microbes to bring in the nutrients the plant needs at the proper time. Nature has been doing it that way since the beginning. And the microbes will bloom and die off as they are needed naturally. All I need to do now is top dress with a wide variety of food for my microbes and the plant and microbes do the rest. The only time you might have deficiencies or excess amounts of anything is in the beginning as the soil is balancing itself out.

Assuming that “nature” is equivalent to “optimal” is a common mistake. It is not. Period. I am pro-organic, especially at large scale, and you are doing it well, sounds like. You understand root exudates better than the other guy, I think.

Nature is not remotely optimal.

This whole thread is full of fuck, with a couple small exceptions.

OP - Water your plants with small amounts, often. (Protip, try Blumats or a top fed dripper system.)