61falcon

Well-Known Member

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Lol! Yeah, they are perfect leveling things out. Ugly yeah, but its no beauty contest.
QB96 side still looks like they are a bit ahead but plants on the QB288 side look bigger now with a bigger diameter. Only the front left plant on the QB96 side looks still the biggest. The other 3 look smaller compared to QB288.
Curious to the final results. In theory a 3000°k spectrum should outperform a 3500°k spectrum by 1-3% so interesting to see if its really the case.

I've only my party cup plant currently and two other small plants in my little 3ft. cab and with a bit luck..
I hope she's at least good enough to win something.. I'll start flushing this weekend and next weekend she's already done.
portrait mode.jpg
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Lol! Yeah, they are perfect leveling things out. Ugly yeah, but its no beauty contest.
QB96 side still looks like they are a bit ahead but plants on the QB288 side look bigger now with a bigger diameter. Only the front left plant on the QB96 side looks still the biggest. The other 3 look smaller compared to QB288.
Curious to the final results. In theory a 3000°k spectrum should outperform a 3500°k spectrum by 1-3% so interesting to see if its really the case.

I've only my party cup plant currently and two other small plants in my little 3ft. cab and with a bit luck..
I hope she's at least good enough to win something.. I'll start flushing this weekend and next weekend she's already done.
View attachment 4315886
They do the job, just right...thanks...i have wheels underneath them.

96 plants were somewhat smaller than 288s at 12:12. They took off stronger than 288s, and 288s grew a little slower.

96s have slightly longer, thicker colas at the moment. 288s have a little wider canopy, but somewhat shallower.

288s seem to be growing a little faster than 96s now, can’t wait to see what this looks like at the end...

Nice plant, classic look, hope you win something.

New lights will be there soon...
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
They do the job, just right...thanks...i have wheels underneath them.

96 plants were somewhat smaller than 288s at 12:12. They took off stronger than 288s, and 288s grew a little slower.

96s have slightly longer, thicker colas at the moment. 288s have a little wider canopy, but somewhat shallower.

288s seem to be growing a little faster than 96s now, can’t wait to see what this looks like at the end...

Nice plant, classic look, hope you win something.

New lights will be there soon...

Yeah, they are on the way, brother, and I've to send you a huge "thank you" across the ocean.
Got the tracking number yesterday and they should arrive next week. Maybe tues- or wednesday..
Next thing is to order a few siutable MW AB drivers and some more aluminum to get the heat sinks done.


How much boards do you plan to use per tent? 4, 6 or even 8 like with the 288's?
I think your goal is up to 1100μMol/s PPFD at around 24" hanging heights like in your other tents?
If so 6 boards and 3 HLG-240H-48A or AB should work. ~900w!

I really like the new AB series cause you can set a certain voltage level "and" use an external dimmer to make the dimming more comfortable. With 2 boards in parallel you need to set the voltage to 49,5 or 50v maximal with A and AB (a little more than needed but you need a little headroom for cold starts) and you would get up to 300w per driver.
Probably ~6A per driver..
You could also use 3 HLG-320H-54B if you want it dimmable down to off. This driver has probably up to 6,5A, has no voltage regulator(so no need to change voltage settings) and the boards would run in constant current mode from the beginning.
Probably around 320w each pair of boards!

The wiring is as easy as it can be. + and - from the driver are going to + and - of the 1st board and the second board is connected to the 1st board using the other + and - connectors. + goes to + of the 2nd board and - to the - connector. The remaining pair of connectors on the 2nd boards stay unused/open.

You can also use a 3 slot Wago clamp on each driver output(+ and -) and add two AWG18 wires to each Wago. The + wires go to board 1 and 2/+ connectors and the - wires to the - connectors. Each board would be directly powered and the 1st board don't need to handle the additional current of the 2nd board. So this setup will probably end up with a few watts more because of less droop.

That's it aleady!
We continue talking when you hold them in your hands ..
 

Frank Cannon

Well-Known Member
He's a supernova machine Random, I think he is going with lucky #8, I do like your idea with the AB type drivers mate, the external dimmer is wicked and the potential to change voltage is an absolute bonus!

Looking forward to all this carry on cobba, hope to test a 320-54b on Mond as a reference to the 480-48b - voltage adjustment will be a bonus me thinks!!

FC
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Yeah, they are on the way, brother, and I've to send you a huge "thank you" across the ocean.
Got the tracking number yesterday and they should arrive next week. Maybe tues- or wednesday..
Next thing is to order a few siutable MW AB drivers and some more aluminum to get the heat sinks done.


How much boards do you plan to use per tent? 4, 6 or even 8 like with the 288's?
I think your goal is up to 1100μMol/s PPFD at around 24" hanging heights like in your other tents?
If so 6 boards and 3 HLG-240H-48A or AB should work. ~900w!

I really like the new AB series cause you can set a certain voltage level "and" use an external dimmer to make the dimming more comfortable. With 2 boards in parallel you need to set the voltage to 49,5 or 50v maximal with A and AB (a little more than needed but you need a little headroom for cold starts) and you would get up to 300w per driver.
Probably ~6A per driver..
You could also use 3 HLG-320H-54B if you want it dimmable down to off. This driver has probably up to 6,5A, has no voltage regulator(so no need to change voltage settings) and the boards would run in constant current mode from the beginning.
Probably around 320w each pair of boards!

The wiring is as easy as it can be. + and - from the driver are going to + and - of the 1st board and the second board is connected to the 1st board using the other + and - connectors. + goes to + of the 2nd board and - to the - connector. The remaining pair of connectors on the 2nd boards stay unused/open.

You can also use a 3 slot Wago clamp on each driver output(+ and -) and add two AWG18 wires to each Wago. The + wires go to board 1 and 2/+ connectors and the - wires to the - connectors. Each board would be directly powered and the 1st board don't need to handle the additional current of the 2nd board. So this setup will probably end up with a few watts more because of less droop.

That's it aleady!
We continue talking when you hold them in your hands ..
You’re welcome, man!


Can’t wait to see your new creations.

You know me...4 pairs! What are your thoughts on hlg-480h-48A or hlg-480-54A for each pair, powerwise?

The AB’s sound great, but i’m ok with the screwdriver dimming on the A’s, and wouldn’t need to wire in a pot.

I’d like to wire in a dc meter for each pair, like this
C4787B17-41D6-47E1-8CEE-85489A1153CF.jpeg

If i wire it in ahead of the +/- wires to the first board, that will give me the combined readings of the pair of boards, correct?
 

Steakbomb

Well-Known Member
You’re welcome, man!


Can’t wait to see your new creations.

You know me...4 pairs! What are your thoughts on hlg-480h-48A or hlg-480-54A for each pair, powerwise?

The AB’s sound great, but i’m ok with the screwdriver dimming on the A’s, and wouldn’t need to wire in a pot.

I’d like to wire in a dc meter for each pair, like this
View attachment 4316825

If i wire it in ahead of the +/- wires to the first board, that will give me the combined readings of the pair of boards, correct?
I had one like that in-line before my QB18s which are wired in parallel and it did the trick. If you're using a driver that pushes more than 100v you'll need one that can handle that load. I tried that same model on my trio of 288s and it was unhappy; I couldn't figure out how to wire up the 40-200v version properly...
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
You’re welcome, man!


Can’t wait to see your new creations.

You know me...4 pairs! What are your thoughts on hlg-480h-48A or hlg-480-54A for each pair, powerwise?

The AB’s sound great, but i’m ok with the screwdriver dimming on the A’s, and wouldn’t need to wire in a pot.

I’d like to wire in a dc meter for each pair, like this
View attachment 4316825

If i wire it in ahead of the +/- wires to the first board, that will give me the combined readings of the pair of boards, correct?

Yepp, you would see the power draw of the whole circuit.
An HLG-480H-54A has up to 550w fully ramped up. But you can limit the circuit voltage to lets say 50 or 51v and it would limit the current flow too.
With 48,5v a 3C board is running with 125w I believe and at maximum current(4,5A) the voltage is just above 51v, 51,2v or so. So if you set the voltage to lets say 51,2v you can turn up the current regulator to the maximum without damaging the boards. You would have ~460w out of each pair of boards, maybe 490w at the wall.
If you leave the voltage regulator at 54v and ramp up to 100% the circuit voltage would go up to 52v maybe and you would have a max current between 10 and 11amps. Probably around 550w or more. This has the potential to damage the boards in the long run. But a little more current would not hurt them but with a voltage limit you can add some kind of protection.
It would allow you to use only 2 2-board fixtures per 4x 4' tent and of course another 4x 4' tent. I'm 100% sure you can get almost the same results using 4 boards above a 4x 4' area. With 8 you'll improve the over all efficiency at least by 5% but the energy savings can not keep up with the yield you get with another tent. With your setup you have anyway your money back within the 1st two runs or so but in the long run... If you still have enough space.. But you need probably another set of arms, lol! And a few more ugly styroform "pedestals" of course...(Yeah, bro, I still remember the word... its burned in)
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Yepp, you would see the power draw of the whole circuit.
An HLG-480H-54A has up to 550w fully ramped up. But you can limit the circuit voltage to lets say 50 or 51v and it would limit the current flow too.
With 48,5v a 3C board is running with 125w I believe and at maximum current(4,5A) the voltage is just above 51v, 51,2v or so. So if you set the voltage to lets say 51,2v you can turn up the current regulator to the maximum without damaging the boards. You would have ~460w out of each pair of boards, maybe 490w at the wall.
If you leave the voltage regulator at 54v and ramp up to 100% the circuit voltage would go up to 52v maybe and you would have a max current between 10 and 11amps. Probably around 550w or more. This has the potential to damage the boards in the long run. But a little more current would not hurt them but with a voltage limit you can add some kind of protection.
It would allow you to use only 2 2-board fixtures per 4x 4' tent and of course another 4x 4' tent. I'm 100% sure you can get almost the same results using 4 boards above a 4x 4' area. With 8 you'll improve the over all efficiency at least by 5% but the energy savings can not keep up with the yield you get with another tent. With your setup you have anyway your money back within the 1st two runs or so but in the long run... If you still have enough space.. But you need probably another set of arms, lol! And a few more ugly styroform "pedestals" of course...(Yeah, bro, I still remember the word... its burned in)
Thanks man.

The 54s max rating is 8.9 amps, the 48s are higher; so maybe i go with the 54s, in an attempt to put a governor on my intensity addiction.

I have no problem with how my tents look, functionality and flexibility are way more important to me than cosmetics...that styrofoam idea is a winner! No problem holding 8 gals of nutesoup & plant up on wheels...and in 2” layers, i can easily get the right height on each plant for an even canopy without screwing up the light spread.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
I had one like that in-line before my QB18s which are wired in parallel and it did the trick. If you're using a driver that pushes more than 100v you'll need one that can handle that load. I tried that same model on my trio of 288s and it was unhappy; I couldn't figure out how to wire up the 40-200v version properly...
I’d be right at the voltage limit on the one i posted. Why was the larger version a problem?
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Day 40 from flip: 60+ tops per plant, with a good second pistil flush and 10weeks, hoping to end up with plenty of dense colas in these size ranges.

4B24AE1E-2BE6-4F0C-94B5-946040D5DE58.jpeg 353CDB01-2538-40C7-BD96-693BB6851122.jpeg

6x96
6F0C642E-648B-4CF6-BB67-E66020C48FA7.jpeg 97AA8D40-0EBF-429F-8CAF-97C075EAA705.jpeg
E0CE6E28-04E1-4BBA-AA60-034920BFE24A.jpeg

8x288
21BA8399-C66D-4F15-948A-74C60A080775.jpeg 23D991A7-5C75-4B9C-83CA-514FF3E2D42B.jpeg E0C6549D-E192-427D-96A4-B3DF72A7D21F.jpeg

Bumped nutes from 1.0-1.2 ec back to 1.4-1.6 ec...changed out the third co2 tank in the 96 tent, 16 days, 5 days longer than prev times, both tents on fourth tanks.
 
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Steakbomb

Well-Known Member
I’d be right at the voltage limit on the one i posted. Why was the larger version a problem?
It was essentially a small version of the clamp meters electricians use. There was a magnetic ring that two wires needed to pass thru and the diagram was less than clear to my eyes. That's actually why I wound up going with the outlet meter
 
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