Yes. It seems like every second DIY build on German-speaking forums is based on their Zeus XT 308
They can be run without heatsink at ~120W
They can be run without heatsink at ~120W
i dont know how people can run their stuff without heatsink, i tryied with several pcb, its alright when you go at 30/50% of theire power, but as soon as you push 75/100% of the power, i seriously doubt about it man.... it was lit super hooooot everytime, didnt have temp mesurement but could not keep my find on it!....Yes. It seems like every second DIY build on German-speaking forums is based on their Zeus XT 308
They can be run without heatsink at ~120W
totaly agreeIt depends on how the chips are spread out and how hard you are running them. Definitely can't do no heatsink in anything with a protective cover as you nearly need to double the heatsink.
You are like a mad scientist of horticulture lightingXT borads are bigger like the normal Zeus boards to allow better heat dissipation. When it comes to cooling surface area is all what matters. I've 160w strips and COB's on this DIY heatsink and even at 100% the heat sinks stays well below 50°C.
View attachment 4308019
At 75% even only around 41°C..
View attachment 4308020
Pretty sure when you glue a few siutable c-channels on the XT boards backside(thermal tape works great) to increase the surface area you could run them with 100% without getting issues.
Lol! No, I hate to pay for expensive heat sinks. Most heatsinks have much to much "meat" which makes them unneccessarily heavy. The only benefit of such heat sinks is it takes more time to heat them up but how much heat they can really handle depends on surface area. The only type of heat sinks I can not create myself are pin fin heat sinks.You are like a mad scientist of horticulture lighting
Yep. Completely mad scientistLol! No, I hate to pay for expensive heat sinks. Most heatsinks have much to much "meat" which makes them unneccessarily heavy. The only benefit of such heat sinks is it takes more time to heat them up but how much heat they can really handle depends on surface area. The only type of heat sinks I can not create myself are pin fin heat sinks.
View attachment 4308025
This ones are made from two c-channels, a big one with 25 x 45x 25mm and a smaller one with 20x 25x 20mm. I've just glued the small channel between the "fins" of the bigger channel. 4 fins instead of only 2 and surface area increase by ~35%. Each of these heat sinks has 115mm length and keeps 100w of COB's below 65°C.
Currently they run with 4 COB's and a number of 3w diodes, ~70w each and inside my tent they stay pretty cool. With 30°C ambient below 50°C but there is of course a little airflow.
View attachment 4308028
That's my current low distance light for 12-14". Without the UVB bulb I can lower the fixture even more. My groom has 125 x 70cm and these beast has 115x 60cm. ~325w LED(F-strips and v18c COB's, series-parallel layout, driven by a single HLG-320H-C1750B, each module gets ~450mA. LM561c run with onmly ~50mA. And I have two 24w/2ft bulbs now instead of 13ft/39w bulb.
I've already a few Osram Square deep-reds and a dimmable t5 ballast here to add them as soon as I have enough time, lol!
Lol! No, I hate to pay for expensive heat sinks. Most heatsinks have much to much "meat" which makes them unneccessarily heavy. The only benefit of such heat sinks is it takes more time to heat them up but how much heat they can really handle depends on surface area. The only type of heat sinks I can not create myself are pin fin heat sinks.
View attachment 4308025
This ones are made from two c-channels, a big one with 25 x 45x 25mm and a smaller one with 20x 25x 20mm. I've just glued the small channel between the "fins" of the bigger channel. 4 fins instead of only 2 and surface area increase by ~35%. Each of these heat sinks has 115mm length and keeps 100w of COB's below 65°C.
Currently they run with 4 COB's and a number of 3w diodes, ~70w each and inside my tent they stay pretty cool. With 30°C ambient below 50°C but there is of course a little airflow.
View attachment 4308028
That's my current low distance light for 12-14". Without the UVB bulb I can lower the fixture even more. My groom has 125 x 70cm and these beast has 115x 60cm. ~325w LED(F-strips and v18c COB's, series-parallel layout, driven by a single HLG-320H-C1750B, each module gets ~450mA. LM561c run with only ~50mA. And I have two 24w/2ft bulbs now instead of a 3ft/39w bulb.
I've already a few Osram Square deep-reds and a dimmable t5 ballast here to add them as soon as I have enough time, lol!
Lumitronix Powerbar v3Hey guys, looking for "red" supplemental strips to add to an existing build. The forward voltage I'd be working with is about 36v, so some recomemdation with a denomination of 36v, or 36v right on would be greatly appreciated. Maybe throw a few links or list a couple examples of "red" and FR options. Thanks in advance!
@budman410
Is there an LM351h strip?
Or a strip that's on digikey that people like? I couldn't find where to buy that power bar v3? Kind of a neat idea though. Cut the board into 3 pieces to make it into a strip.
Your builds are epic, and sadly I’ve looked into customizing my own lights personally. I just don’t have the patience or time. This monster of a fixture is something I was thinking about with the cob strip uvb combo.Google Lumitronics, bro, its a german online shop. But these powerbar strips are not cheap and its also not top bin!
LED-tech.de has better prices for Osram diodes and they have different customizable strips with different monochromatic diodes(Oslon, Oslon Square, SSL80, 120 and SSL150). A few strips with different layouts are listed but you can contact them via email/chat to order for instance strips with certain single color LED's.
You can also search for empty strip PCB's with siutable Osram/Cree/... solder pattern, order the naked diodes you want and create them youself. All you need is a good thermometer with 300°C measuring range and you have to chase your wife out of the kitchen for half an hour because you need her oven. Solder grease is pretty cheap and there are several how-to's on youtube. I've done it with stars and its pretty easy. With the right amount of solder grease applied the diodes slide almost automaticly in the right position when the PCB gets hot. You just have to make sure that the thermal pad has full contact with the PCB so that the heat flow is not interrupted. Sometimes you need to slightly press the diodes down to remove excess solder. A little finger tap on the diodes just when you take them out of the oven is enough.
I prepared 20 star PCB's and equipped them with XM-L2's, then placed them on a baking sheet and put them in the oven (preheated, recommended temps are in the data sheet). When I got them out, I placed a thin, not too heavy plywood board horizontally on the diodes and allowed them to cool down. Unfortunately I've sold the light and can not show them but there was anyway no visible difference.
Edit:
They also offer Nichia diodes so maybe you can also order wideband red phosphor NCSRE17A strips too..?
I did my man! I'm not that lazy! HahaGoogle Lumitronics, bro, its a german online shop. But these powerbar strips are not cheap and its also not top bin!
LED-tech.de has better prices for Osram diodes and they have different customizable strips with different monochromatic diodes(Oslon, Oslon Square, SSL80, 120 and SSL150). A few strips with different layouts are listed but you can contact them via email/chat to order for instance strips with certain single color LED's.
You can also search for empty strip PCB's with siutable Osram/Cree/... solder pattern, order the naked diodes you want and create them youself. All you need is a good thermometer with 300°C measuring range and you have to chase your wife out of the kitchen for half an hour because you need her oven. Solder grease is pretty cheap and there are several how-to's on youtube. I've done it with stars and its pretty easy. With the right amount of solder grease applied the diodes slide almost automaticly in the right position when the PCB gets hot. You just have to make sure that the thermal pad has full contact with the PCB so that the heat flow is not interrupted. Sometimes you need to slightly press the diodes down to remove excess solder. A little finger tap on the diodes just when you take them out of the oven is enough.
I prepared 20 star PCB's and equipped them with XM-L2's, then placed them on a baking sheet and put them in the oven (preheated, recommended temps are in the data sheet). When I got them out, I placed a thin, not too heavy plywood board horizontally on the diodes and allowed them to cool down. Unfortunately I've sold the light and can not show them but there was anyway no visible difference.
Edit:
They also offer Nichia diodes so maybe you can also order wideband red phosphor NCSRE17A strips too..?
why are you derailing this thread for that? nothing to do with the new samsung stripsHey guys, looking for "red" supplemental strips to add to an existing build. The forward voltage I'd be working with is about 36v, so some recomemdation with a denomination of 36v, or 36v right on would be greatly appreciated. Maybe throw a few links or list a couple examples of "red" and FR options. Thanks in advance!
@budman410
I did my man! I'm not that lazy! Haha
View attachment 4317387 View attachment 4317388
They only have a contact, I didn't see any quick online purchase option like digikey.
Kick that old lady out! Haha Do you have a brand that you like? This is what I'm using..
https://www.cmlsupply.com/kester-ep256-lead-solder-paste-63-37-syringe-dispenser/
Is there an LH351h strip?
Or a strip that's on digikey that people like? I couldn't find where to buy that power bar v3? Kind of a neat idea though. Cut the board into 3 pieces to make it into a strip.
Eat a box of these bud..why are you derailing this thread for that? nothing to do with the new samsung strips