UV Suppliment Lighting

[ChiefRunningPhist]

Nope! Until now I've not seen such a multi channel driver.
Aquarium peeps usually use a big HLG-xxx CV/CC driver to fire a bunch of Meanwell LDD's which is a dc-to-dc driver.
But the highest input voltage is 52v and the usable output voltage is ~50v. You can find lots of dc-to-dc converters on ebay too also with adjustable CC output. I've seen them with 200w and more also with a higher voltage range.
These LDD's have up to 1,5A and could run an CXM22/32 for instance or any other COB with less than 50v@1,5A. You can get them from 350-1500mA, 35 and 52v version and they all are 5v PWM dimmable. So the cheapest reef controller is already enough to control each LDD separately. You can also get PCB's with 4 or 5 build in LDD's and all the needed connectors. You only need to connect the HLG-driver, the COB's, mono strings or strips and the reef controller to this board and its done. The controller firmware is stored on an additional sdcard you get with the controller and the better ones also have a smartphone app to set them up.
The only downside is you'll lose driver efficiency. Lets say you power 10 LDD's with an HLG-480H-48A set to 52v you get 95% efficiency. The LDD's can have up to 97% efficiency when input voltage is only 2-3v above output voltage. The higher the difference the less efficient.52v input and 36: output voltage means probably only 94% or so. So in the best case it's (0,95 x 0,97 =) 92,15% conversion efficiency. In use probably between 85 and 92% depending on setup, channel voltage and dimmer settings.

On e3ay you can find 3 channel RGB drivers with 3 channels and a remote controller. I've seen them from 10-100w. The 100w ones have 3 channels with 20- 40v/900mA. The 50w ones have 600mA per channel but only 33v or less. 30w RGB drivers have only 33v/270mA per channel. They look the same like they other 10-100w china drivers with their silver or golden driver housing. They have just 3 + and one - wire on the DC side. One + wire for each channel and a just one negative connection for all three channels. You can find them for ~20$..

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Would you post some of the 97% effecient DC-DC drivers? I've only been able to come across 95% at most? A 97% buck converter would make parallel dimming much nicer.

I was trying to avoid the ldds because wanting to run when main light not on and if LDD is on same channel any adjustments would impact the main channel unless it were on its own lld too?
Those 3 channel ones are intriguing but seems effeciency is not a priority on them? That's the other thing with the ldds thaking a percent or 2 hit on effeciency.
I was hoping for a single adjustable driver so I could play with the spectrum, seems ldds increase the number of drivers but recovering those losses because the DC to DC are more effecient seems at least feasible?

It's not ideal, but a redundant less effecienct driver to power the supps when main is off (like for an FR initiator) might be a solution to your problem.

I've yet to find 90%+ effeciency on low wattage AC->DC drivers, but running the main driver that low to keep one supp running is even lower effeciency, ime (dependent on driver load% when supp is engaged; supp = supplemental).

 

[TEKNIK]

You have 2 options when it comes to controlling spectrums, 1st option is to purchase multiple drivers and dim them, 2nd option is to use one large driver and split the channels up to suit There is no way of getting around effiency, as soon as you dim a driver the efficiency drops. My personal preference is to use multiple dim to off drivers and switch drivers off to change spectrums rather than have one big driver. LDD drivers are handy but you still need one main driver to run them

 

[TEKNIK]

Would you post some of the 97% effecient DC-DC drivers? I've only been able to come across 95% at most? A 97% buck converter would make parallel dimming much nicer.


It's not ideal, but a redundant less effecienct driver to power the supps when main is off (like for an FR initiator) might be a solution to your problem.

I've yet to find 90%+ effeciency on low wattage AC->DC drivers, but running the main driver that low to keep one supp running is even lower effeciency, ime (dependent on driver load% when supp is engaged).

If you are concerned about a driver just for FR then you really don't need to worry too much about efficiency, you could use a cheap laptop power supply and an ldd driver to run them separately. As you don't need alot of FR to do EOD then it really doesn't matter too much, it may cost you $2 a year extra maximum with a low efficiency set up.

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

If you are concerned about a driver just for FR then you really don't need to worry too much about efficiency, you could use a cheap laptop power supply and an ldd driver to run them separately. As you don't need alot of FR to do EOD then it really doesn't matter too much, it may cost you $2 a year extra maximum with a low efficiency set up.

True story

 

[Randomblame]

ERP is a relatively new company and has a few nice driver solutions developed but till now not all of them are already on the market. But they have made it their mission to develop a suitable driver for every occasion, including multi-channel drivers. I can not say if they have something siutable for you (too many drivers to check) but with a little luck you'll find something. There are datasheets of all their drivers for download.

https://www.erp-power.com/


You could also contact a company like LSD/ERAO (fake meanwells) and ask them for a special design. Maybe they can create something for you? As long as they "think" you want thausands of them....
It's not that hard to put 4 small separately dimmable drivers in a single case. Maybe 2 100w and 2 50w channels or 1x 200w, 2 times 35w and 1x 15w...

http://lsdpower.com/pro.asp

 

[Randomblame]

Would you post some of the 97% effecient DC-DC drivers? I've only been able to come across 95% at most? A 97% buck converter would make parallel dimming much nicer.


It's not ideal, but a redundant less effecienct driver to power the supps when main is off (like for an FR initiator) might be a solution to your problem.

I've yet to find 90%+ effeciency on low wattage AC->DC drivers, but running the main driver that low to keep one supp running is even lower effeciency, ime (dependent on driver load% when supp is engaged; supp = supplemental).

LDD's are available in L and H series, bro.
L means 32v, 95% efficiency and H means 52v(42v above 1000mA) and up to 97% efficiency. The closer in and output voltage are together the higher the conversion efficiency.

 

[Randomblame]

But when you don't have the UV-B on for longer times, insects would have a better chance to survive?
(In my opinion the benefit of not getting insects and mildew is bigger then getting more thc or smell)

Insects can see UVA light and they avoid it instinctive because it would damage their dna. So a few hours per day are enough to scare them away. And the ones staying in your groom would die within a few days because of the dna damage.
If you want to kill other pathogenes like spores to prevent PM or bud rot you can use a 5, 7 or 9w UVC bulb and install it lengthwise inside the intake air hose(just before the fan for instance). This way you can clean the incomming air easily.
I've also a 9w UVC handheld to disinfect any surface from pathogenes. With UVC this takes only seconds!!!
Earlier I've used it to disinfect my outdoor/greenhouse plants and the whole greenhouse. For others it must have looked like when someone at the airport was going to frisk someone with a handheld metal detector. You simply follow the contours of the plant slowly at a distance of 1-4" max., irradiation length about 2-3sec. And no, it doesn't damage the plants!

But you can believe it, it works also with only a few hours per day and a UVA/B bulb.
Since I'm using UVA/B (2nd year now) I had neither problems with sucking insects nor with PM or boytritis(but rot).

 

[Randomblame]

I'm using a multi channel Sonoff(1, 2 or 4 channels) and small cheap ebay drivers without housing to drive my separate mono strings. These drivers are called 10x 3w, or 18x 3w or 30x 3w for instance. Not dimmable but you can switch the channels on and off separately.
These drivers are not so bad even when they're cheap. Leave a bit voltage headroom or change the 105°C input capacitors against a better 150°C ones and they last at least a few years. Those capacitors are pretty cheap and easy to replace. Powerfactor is 95 and efficiency is above 90% at least and they are pretty small and fit in any housing you may have in mind. This one is 85x 25x 18mm(L x W x H) and has 60v/650mA to play with. ~7$US from ebay seller "panpan-supermarket", lol!

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

ERP is a relatively new company and has a few nice driver solutions developed but till now not all of them are already on the market. But they have made it their mission to develop a suitable driver for every occasion, including multi-channel drivers. I can not say if they have something siutable for you (too many drivers to check) but with a little luck you'll find something. There are datasheets of all their drivers for download.

https://www.erp-power.com/


You could also contact a company like LSD/ERAO (fake meanwells) and ask them for a special design. Maybe they can create something for you? As long as they "think" you want thausands of them....
It's not that hard to put 4 small separately dimmable drivers in a single case. Maybe 2 100w and 2 50w channels or 1x 200w, 2 times 35w and 1x 15w...

http://lsdpower.com/pro.asp

Hmmm that sounds interesting, I'll have to look into them, thanks! I think you'll like the solution I've come up with anyways haha. No buck converters/DCDC drivers.

I was asking about 97% buck converters because I wanted to possibly make a low voltage CV version. The supps I was thinking would probably not be close in V to the main driver, regardless they are much more consistently effecienct than I thought. 95% is still very good, perhaps I'll give it a go.

 

[TEKNIK]

Hmmm that sounds interesting, I'll have to look into them, thanks! I think you'll like the solution I've come up with anyways haha. No buck converters/DCDC drivers.

I was asking about 97% buck converters because I wanted to possibly make a low voltage CV version. The supps I was thinking would probably not be close in V to the main driver, regardless they are much more consistently effecienct than I thought. 95% is still very good, perhaps I'll give it a go.

LDD drivers are great, 95% efficiency, but you also need to realise that unless your main driver is at full load it will quickly loose efficiency, I should have explained that better this morning
Using an LDD driver can result in an overall 50% efficiency depending on the main driver used.
More drivers is the only way to increase efficiency for spectrum tuning. Gets expensive and messy fast

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

LDD drivers are great, 95% efficiency, but you also need to realise that unless your main driver is at full load it will quickly loose efficiency, I should have explained that better this morning
Using an LDD driver can result in an overall 50% efficiency depending on the main driver used.
More drivers is the only way to increase efficiency for spectrum tuning. Gets expensive and messy fast

... running the main driver that low to keep one supp running is even lower effeciency, ime (dependent on driver load% when supp is engaged; supp = supplemental).

If you have all your supps on 1 driver, individual dimming will have less of an impact on total driver load.

 

[TEKNIK]

If you have them all on yes. It's hard to do everything right and maintain efficiency. Even forward voltage of the leds can effect efficiency. I really don't think it needs to be too complex but it depends on how far you want to go.

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

If you have them all on yes. It's hard to do everything right and maintain efficiency. Even forward voltage of the leds can effect efficiency. I really don't think it needs to be too complex but it depends on how far you want to go.

Thanks. I understand effeciency. That's what I was trying to say.

 

[Randomblame]

I've explained it in one of my other posts. In the best case such a solution can reach 93% (HLG-600H-54A, 96% + LLD/97%) but you need to fully use all the available current to reach it. LDD's and HLG driver need to run near to its limits. As soon as a few channels are dimmed or off efficiency goes down .. almost twice as fast as with a single driver.

The best would be to squeeze a number of dimmable AC/DC drivers in its own housing and dimming realized over a multi channel pwm controller with 10v PWM. Each channel gets its own driver and they all are powered by one power cord. HLG-40 - 150's are pretty small. Well build you would only have one power cord and a few output connectors. You could also add power meters, on/off switch and such things. The strings of LED's are simply connected to the corresponding connector on the driver case.

This is an HLG-320H-C1750B + Sonoff timer + power display + 230vac daisy chain to power the UVB bulbs which BTW have their own Sonoff timer. It has now so called low resistance aviation connectors(600v/20A) one the putput side but the rest still looks the same. You can get these connectors with up to 15 pins BTW. So enough room for multiple channels..

 

[ChiefRunningPhist]

Nice craftsmanship @Randomblame



Here's some driver options that if in the US maintain maximum effeciency at ~50% load!



Not all drivers are so bad when dimmed guys!


They are designed to be dimmed, some even get better effeciency at lower loads...

 

[Keesje]

Insects can see UVA light and they avoid it instinctive because it would damage their dna. So a few hours per day are enough to scare them away. And the ones staying in your groom would die within a few days because of the dna damage.
--//--
But you can believe it, it works also with only a few hours per day and a UVA/B bulb.
Since I'm using UVA/B (2nd year now) I had neither problems with sucking insects nor with PM or boytritis(but rot).

So if I understand you correctly, to take measures to prevent damage caused by insects, it is better to use UV-A?

 

[SSGrower]

LDD drivers are great, 95% efficiency, but you also need to realise that unless your main driver is at full load it will quickly loose efficiency, I should have explained that better this morning
Using an LDD driver can result in an overall 50% efficiency depending on the main driver used.
More drivers is the only way to increase efficiency for spectrum tuning. Gets expensive and messy fast

I had come to this same conclusion. But was optimistic seeing a possibility of a 97% efficiency dc-dc.
I cant help to think that there are good energy savings in system integration. Perhaps it would be a combination of the two methods, static loads like light cooling fans on dc-dc off the main, and variable loads like spectral tuning and variable exhaust on their own power supplies?

 

[radiant Rudy]

So if I understand you correctly, to take measures to prevent damage caused by insects, it is better to use UV-A?

Im wondering same.

I use one of those agtomax 4' pure uv t5s
AgroMax Pure UV T5
The AgroMax Pure UV T5 provides your garden with a concentrated blast of UV-A and UV-B spectrum light. Indoor plants,

Ive seen flying insects appear unconcerned walking on the tube and housing. I was thinking that the exposure would be devastating to a tiny insect. These tubes affect skin pretty quickly. But the bugs definitely did not have any reluctance to explore the fixture.

 

[TEKNIK]

Im wondering same.

I use one of those agtomax 4' pure uv t5s
AgroMax Pure UV T5
The AgroMax Pure UV T5 provides your garden with a concentrated blast of UV-A and UV-B spectrum light. Indoor plants,

Ive seen flying insects appear unconcerned walking on the tube and housing. I was thinking that the exposure would be devastating to a tiny insect. These tubes affect skin pretty quickly. But the bugs definitely did not have any reluctance to explore the fixture.

I am actually making a bug attraction light using UVA, a few seconds after I powered up a 365nm chip a tiny bug appeared in the clean room, I thought it was my eyes at first, I turned it off and back on, a few seconds later that bug appeared again running around the led chip.

 

[SSGrower]

I am actually making a bug attraction light using UVA, a few seconds after I powered up a 365nm chip a tiny bug appeared in the clean room, I thought it was my eyes at first, I turned it off and back on, a few seconds later that bug appeared again running around the led chip.

An led update.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bug_zapper