UV Suppliment Lighting

oldbeancounter

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
nachooo said:
This is an interesting device regarding IR :https://www.arcadiareptile.com/heat-projector/
at some point they said that black ceramic opaque infrared reptile lamps are not the good for provide this radiation...sadly I bought 2 of those last year for experiments in the cold Winter...
Click to expand...
Good that you are willing to point out you bought something that was not suitable, likely saved others from buying this.
 
Moflow

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
LM301b is a midpower diode, typ. 0,5w max. or 200mA.
XP-E2 is called a 3w diode and max. is 1000mA.
XP-G and XP-G2 are 5w diodes, 1,5A max. and XP-G3's are 6w diodes, 2A max. but all XP-G's are only available in white and royal blue. Only XP-E, XP-E2 and XQ-R are available in different wavelength and colors.

XP-E2 is the latest and brightest generation and should be in the same range like Osram's Oslon series(depends on the wavelength, Cree's royal blue is brighter than Osrams, therefor the hyperred Osrams have higher binnings like Cree's photored.
I'll add you the latest datasheet of the XP-E2's below.
The efficiency numbers(lm/W or mW/W) in the datasheets are taken at 350mA.
All colors have different voltage depending on the semiconductor used to create the light
White XP-E2 have 2,9-3,25v (350-1000mA)
Blue has 3,1-3,5v
Green has 3,2-3,8v(worst efficiency)
Red has 2,2-2,6v
Photored 2,05-2,5v(photored is the same as deep-red and same as hyper-red with Osram diodes, it's only another name) and
Far-red has 1,85-2,4v.

The lower the voltage the more efficient the diodes. Below is the datasheet for XP-E2, make sure you order the brightest binnings. For photored XP-E2 that's D01 for instance...


I would not create an outer ring with deep red diodes. Better create 2 or 4 rows and distribute them evenly to get even coverage of every wavelength.
If you realize the drawing like it is the plants on the outside would get lots of deep red but less white and the plants in the center would get only a bit deep red light but lots of white light. Best is to figure at 1st out the optimal distribution for each type of diodes/strips/boards alone, then make compromises here and there to get them all mounted on the fixture.
I would cut the heat sinks of the red diodes to the same length like the 5k strip heat sinks, then mount them alternating.
Like this..
5k, 660nm, (Solacures), 660nm, 5k strips (Boards) 5k strips, 660nm, (Solacures), 660nm, 5k.
Each type of diodes mounted to a heat sink with the same length to mount them alternating on the frame.

You want white, deepred and UV mixed up properly or at least as good as possible. The hanging height of the fixture is maybe between 1 and 2' and you don't want zones where the plants behave different. Worst case...the plants under the coolwhite/UV area stay shorter and the plants under 3k/660nm stretch out more like the other plants.

With boards in the center and 5k and UV on both sides it is already suboptimal.
Additional 660nm cause usually a color shift of 500-1000°k depending on how much you use. 80% 4k + 20% deepred means ~3500°k, 75% 4k + 25% 660nm is already ~3250°k. You should have used 3500°k with 660nm to get ~3000k across the whole area.
3k has still enough blue(10-12%) for healthy and compact growth and you could use 4 additional 5k strips on a separate driver to use them in the first few weeks. For the germinating stage for instance or just to mix them with the 3k light to add more blue light for the vegetative stage and dimm 3k more down.

You could also use all the current 5k strips as sidelights and get 3500 or 4000k strips to mix them with 660nm and UV. Sidelight is very efficienct and coolwhite sidelight hitting the stems would cause extremely short nodial spacings but lots of nodes and strong twigs. And if you also use it in the flowering stage it would improve yield because you get much less larf with sidelights. Instead of 500w from above you could use 200w vertical sidelight and 300w horizontal top light. Less stress for the plants because over all intensity is lower but plants can use the light more efficiently and you end up with a higher g/w ratio and better yields.
Such a configuration can be used for veg and bloom stage, no need for separate rooms. You only need a small extra tent to create enough cuttings. Veg them 1-3weeks with sidelight only then switch to 12/12h and use all lights available. No repotting in between. Just SOG technique with lots of plants but short veg! Much more productive as to veg a plant for 6-10 weeks to fill the whole screen. 6 runs per anno instead of only 3 or 4 means 50-100% more yield per year and you would probably also save some energy because most of the time the lights run only for 12h per day. Veg with a gas lantern routine(12h +1-2h at night) and you save even more juice.

Its simply a lot faster to grow cuttings SOG style. With fast growing sativas you can root them and flower them immediately with no veg and plants will still end up 60-80cm high. With 25 plants per 1m² means 500-600g within 8 weeks. Cuttings are also up to a week faster like seed based plants.

I would only grow big plants when the local laws allow only a certain amount of plants. If there is no plant limit and you want the highest yields possible there is no faster way than SOG with cuttings.

The genetic age of a plant has also a huge effect on its potency. If you lab test 2 plants of the same strain, one grown 12/12 from seed and the other a cutting of a 1year old mother also grown 12/12 which one you think will have more THC?

Believe me, there is a reason why pro's in the netherlands strictly use cuttings and grow SOG style!
Can you buy cuttings locally? If yes, ask the seller for his oldest and most potent genetic. Usually they keep their genetic as long as they can keep them healthy. Cuttings of a 2 or 3 years old GG#4, Bruce Banner or GSC genetic would make you for sure happy and in the end you also get a better price for a better endproduct. And usually you pay less for cuttings..

We here need to do it themself but you guys in the US(at least a few) can buy cuttings directly. GG#4 is actually only available as cutting and all seeds you can get are either crossed with other strains or feminized but none of them will give you a real GG#4 plant. Same goes for instance for Trainwreck! Its was a cuttings from the Arcarta crew and all the seeds you can get today have not much to do with the true Trainwreck genetic.
@Moflow has a 10 years old SensiStar clone and you need only to see the dry buds and know immediately what I'm talking about.



Yeah, Mo, thats a picture request.. ..once again, lol!
Click to expand...
20181003_151306.jpg 20181003_151444.jpg 20181003_151956-0.jpg 20181003_152053-0.jpg 20181003_152129-0.jpg 20181003_152200-0.jpg 20181003_152224-0.jpg
Mmmmmmm........... :hump:
 
oldbeancounter

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
Moflow

Moflow

Well-Known Member
oldbeancounter said:
bravo!
Did anything go purple leaf or bud wise with the UV?
I already imagine how strong it smells. wholly f
don't need bud candy just a good charcoal filter.
white like a different plant , unreal.
I saw these for anyone worried about using UV
https://smartsunband.com/uv-wristbands/
there are lots out there even ones that work to iphone
Click to expand...
No, the only time I get purpling , not very often is winter when it's cold rather than summer cool in the grow room.
No Bud Candy or any other additive really needed. Just green fingers and love.
The only time I use additives is if they're on sale in the bargain basement aisle of the grow shop which is rare.

I might order a pack of those uv strips to dot around the main flowering room, especially under those R2T Disco Boards that have uv-a in them.
They're cheap, around £5 for 7 strips. Worth a punt.
I wonder if there's any uv in the lm301bs lm561cs worth talking about ?
Stick one of those uv indicators under my 24hr on veg light and see if it eventually turns pink.
It might take awhile. ....... :lol:
 
Or_Gro

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
oldbeancounter said:
bravo!
Did anything go purple leaf or bud wise with the UV?
I already imagine how strong it smells. wholly f
don't need bud candy just a good charcoal filter.
white like a different plant , unreal.
I saw these for anyone worried about using UV
https://smartsunband.com/uv-wristbands/
there are lots out there even ones that work to iphone
Click to expand...
I think low nighttime temps or a big differential between day-night temps does the most purpling, but i’m also running arcadia 30%uva, 14%uvb on thes jack herers:

93ACA9EC-B76E-4ED2-9683-4F9C774C3EAD.jpeg ECE5BD59-D8D2-484B-B96B-7078F13834EB.jpeg

Trainwrecks in back....(from feminized seed, so i guess they aren’t real, eh @Randomblame? Also had some fake gg4 in there.... lol)
 
Moflow

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Or_Gro said:
I think low nighttime temps or a big differential between day-night temps does the most purpling, but i’m also running arcadia 30%uva, 14%uvb on thes jack herers:

View attachment 4340364 View attachment 4340365

Trainwrecks in back....(from feminized seed, so i guess they aren’t real, eh @Randomblame? Also had some fake gg4 in there.... lol)
Click to expand...
I've RQS take on the glue, Royal Gorrilla and it's da bomb. I'd love to get a genuine GG#4 to see what all the talk is about.
Anyone willing to send me a clone.....?
 
oldbeancounter

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
Or_Gro said:
I think low nighttime temps or a big differential between day-night temps does the most purpling, but i’m also running arcadia 30%uva, 14%uvb on thes jack herers:

View attachment 4340364 View attachment 4340365

Trainwrecks in back....(from feminized seed, so i guess they aren’t real, eh @Randomblame? lol)
Click to expand...
@Or_Gro
Amazing,
I have so much to learn
Hydro setup...
Is next after I deal with light issues which might take month or more.
I do not like doing things half ass'ed sooner wait, do it right.
The change I saw was plant defense or sunburn I guess, they start making smells very strong soon after those UV bulbs go on.
I am certain too that temperature affects plants color as that is proven fact, look at maple trees or any broad leaf deciduous tree , now if winter does not come(kinda like when we grow indoor and cool temps at night) and trees leaves start to change as it cools off but winter never comes as all that comes are some some shears and hanging upside down in the dark then someone smoking them LOL
I think is kinda what is going on is that correct?
You created fall for plants UV is just an add on to add in changing color.
Excellent grow!
How long did it take to get that far in grow?
 
Or_Gro

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
oldbeancounter said:
@Or_Gro
Amazing,
I have so much to learn
Hydro setup...
Is next after I deal with light issues which might take month or more.
I do not like doing things half ass'ed sooner wait, do it right.
The change I saw was plant defense or sunburn I guess, they start making smells very strong soon after those UV bulbs go on.
I am certain too that temperature affects plants color as that is proven fact, look at maple trees or any broad leaf deciduous tree , now if winter does not come(kinda like when we grow indoor and cool temps at night) and trees leaves start to change as it cools off but winter never comes as all that comes are some some shears and hanging upside down in the dark then someone smoking them LOL
I think is kinda what is going on is that correct?
You created fall for plants UV is just an add on to add in changing color.
Excellent grow!
How long did it take to get that far in grow?
Click to expand...
That is my current grow (2nd link on my signature): 4 strains (herer, trainwreck, original glue/gg4, and green crack) under identical setups/process using supplemented 288s and 96elites.

The herer pic taken may 18, day 75 from flip, plants harvested 2-3 days later.
 
oldbeancounter

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
Or_Gro said:
Hey, how do people prepare and send cuts thru mail?

fecken=>irishman?
Click to expand...
@Or_Gro
Have never used or had anything sent but I understand these do work.
https://www.amazon.com/Clone-Shipper-Seedling-Shipping-Packaging/dp/B017WYDO2C
We should all be swapping via mail if within same country and get some of the cut only stuff traded or sold to those in need or those who wanna get stoned lika me.
bulk or decent pricing(local sellers) here
http://www.cloneshipperunit.com/
I am in Canada BTW lol
 
Last edited:
Or_Gro

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top