Cheap water cooler

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Could probably add a temp controller if you wanted to get fancy with it too?
I imagine you could but I'm not much for figuring out all those kind of things. I'm sure I could find out what I need to do but this worked good enough for my needs.

I used to use peroxide on a regular basis to prevent rot but didn't need that once I got the cooler working. I don't use beneficial bacteria stuff in my DWC and even before the chiller only had rot twice out of 40 or so grows at the time. Both times I had used clones that got rooted in mixes that had real dirt in them and were meant for going into pots but got used in DWC instead. Now I root cuttings either in soilless media or use my little DIY bubble cloner to root them so they are clean at the start.

:peace:
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
@OldMedUser , if it works, it works.

For all of you who want to maintain a certain temperature range, this is a nifty device. STC-1000.
You can set a minimum and a maximum temperature.
If your water gets too cold, it can start a heater or something like that.
If your water gets too warm, it can start a cooling system.
It has some delay so it will not keep on heating, and then cooling right after that.
Less then $ 10.00
Used a lot by home beer brewers.

 

Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
@OldMedUser , if it works, it works.

For all of you who want to maintain a certain temperature range, this is a nifty device. STC-1000.
You can set a minimum and a maximum temperature.
If your water gets too cold, it can start a heater or something like that.
If your water gets too warm, it can start a cooling system.
It has some delay so it will not keep on heating, and then cooling right after that.
Less then $ 10.00
Used a lot by home beer brewers.

Yep I use a plug and play version made by inkbird
 

Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
Are you sure about the price? Seem awful low. You meant less than $100 right?

I'd blow $10 on something like that if I knew where to get it. (nudge-nudge, wink-wink)

:peace:
Amazon literally like $10 hell the plug and play one is like $40 and no need for any wiring or power supply. Does heating and cooling so just add an aquarium heater Nd you have perfect temp control of both heating and cooling for $35.
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=temp+controller+120v&qid=1560381034&s=gateway&sprefix=temp+controller&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
 

Aqua Man

Well-Known Member

Renfro

Well-Known Member
@OldMedUser , if it works, it works.

For all of you who want to maintain a certain temperature range, this is a nifty device. STC-1000.
You can set a minimum and a maximum temperature.
If your water gets too cold, it can start a heater or something like that.
If your water gets too warm, it can start a cooling system.
It has some delay so it will not keep on heating, and then cooling right after that.
Less then $ 10.00
Used a lot by home beer brewers.

I used one of these in a controller I made for my AC unit. Works great. My AC only works down to 5 degrees outside and I have a backup cooling system that uses large blowers to bring in fresh filtered air. I have this inkbird setup so that when it gets down to 7 degrees outside the AC unit is cut off and my blower intake system is enabled on it's own thermostat, CO2 generation is cutoff by the controller when venting. When it's that cold out I don't have to vent much at all as the basement stays pretty cool. This way I don't have to be around to switch cooling systems.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
That link wants me to sign in to do anything but I won't be needing something like that for a while if ever.

Thanks for trying tho.

:peace:
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
It is just an example to show how cheap it can be.
But there are several sites where you can buy them for the same price. Or just slightly more.

I buy a lot of stuff on Aliexpress directly in China. Sprinklers, tube connectors, netpots, etc.
You always have to check the prices though.
For example a Eb & Flow fill and drain set is way cheaper in your local store, but sprinklers are like 5 for less then $ 2.00.
You just have to have some patience, because it can take weeks before it arrives.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
It is just an example to show how cheap it can be.
But there are several sites where you can buy them for the same price. Or just slightly more.

I buy a lot of stuff on Aliexpress directly in China. Sprinklers, tube connectors, netpots, etc.
You always have to check the prices though.
For example a Eb & Flow fill and drain set is way cheaper in your local store, but sprinklers are like 5 for less then $ 2.00.
You just have to have some patience, because it can take weeks before it arrives.
I won't order stuff online if it ships from China. Bad enough we have to buy their crappy stuff here because Canadian business moved over there for cheap labour and no environmental concerns so that's the only place you can get it from.

I'd rather pay more for better quality and having it in my hands in a week or less. When we go to the city I won't shop at Walmart.

:peace:
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
By environmental control, are you saying you had it hooked to a heat exchanger of some kind to cool your space?
It seems like that would be much more efficient than running a/c, no?
I used water cooled air handlers for temp and RH control. Yes it was very efficient.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
If your room temperature gets to 80 degrees F / 27 degrees C, then your water temperature will become 80 degrees as well, eventually.
I mean, if...
... your reservoir is in the same room as your lights.
... if your reservoir is in there long enough.
Of course if you would change or refresh your reservoir every day or 2 days with cold water, then it will take some time to get to 80 degrees.
Heat from the air will eventually also be absorbed by the water. If not, it would be in conflict with the law of thermodynamics.

So I don't see how water will stay colder as the room it is in, just because of the way or aerating.
Only by an exterior force (like a watercooler, or frozen bottles, or pumping your water to another colder room) this can be achieved.
Perhaps the way how you aerate your water can slow down the heating a little bit (for example if you use an electric pump with a higher wattage)

Or I misunderstand, but then please tell me how it works.
Because water evaporates and removes heat doing it.
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
Because water evaporates and removes heat doing it.
True, but that has nothing to with what kind of system you use. Waterfall, DWC, sprayers... the water will always evaporate.
Only if you use a system where the water is in more contact with the air, you will have more evaporation.
But that can be in many systems, also with ebb & flow.
So 'waterfalls' by itself is not a better system for this.

Besides that: In a small and closed enviroment, the heat will go to your air, so the air will heat up more. (the law of Conversation of Energy)
Because the air will heat up more, the water in that same room will also heat up more.
Only when you actively cool this air or suck it out, the temperature of the air will not rise more, and thus the temperature of the water will also not rise more. So instead of a watercooler, you use an aircooler. I think the extra aircooling is easier and cheaper, because most of us already have a fan that sucks out the hot air. It just has to run slightly harder.

They cool aquaria with fans breezing over the surface... It works, but it works so well, because most aquariums are in large living rooms.
The temperature rising in the living room will be perhaps 0.1 degree because your room is 36 x 35 feet, while the surface of your aquarium is only 2 x 3 feet.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
True, but that has nothing to with what kind of system you use. Waterfall, DWC, sprayers... the water will always evaporate.
Only if you use a system where the water is in more contact with the air, you will have more evaporation.
But that can be in many systems, also with ebb & flow.
So 'waterfalls' by itself is not a better system for this.

Besides that: In a small and closed enviroment, the heat will go to your air, so the air will heat up more. (the law of Conversation of Energy)
Because the air will heat up more, the water in that same room will also heat up more.
Only when you actively cool this air or suck it out, the temperature of the air will not rise more, and thus the temperature of the water will also not rise more. So instead of a watercooler, you use an aircooler. I think the extra aircooling is easier and cheaper, because most of us already have a fan that sucks out the hot air. It just has to run slightly harder.

They cool aquaria with fans breezing over the surface... It works, but it works so well, because most aquariums are in large living rooms.
The temperature rising in the living room will be perhaps 0.1 degree because your room is 36 x 35 feet, while the surface of your aquarium is only 2 x 3 feet.
Incorrect; the surface area of the water makes a big difference in how it interacts with the air.

Next point is also incorrect; evaporative coming trades temperature for humidity, which can then be managed.

You're trying to poke holes in my assertions because 'exceptions', not because it doesn't work.

Not only does it work but it doesn't need water chillers for DWC. When you visit a greenhouse, there are no chillers. Ever wonder why?
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
No, I was not incorrect.
I told the same thing: The surface of the area is what does makes a difference with evaporation. But there are many hydro systems that have a large surface area. The surface of water and the contact area with the surrounding air with a sprayers-system can be larger then eb & flow for example. Perhaps your waterfall system has a great watersurface, but perhaps someone elses watersurface and contact-surface with sprayers is bigger.
So waterfall in itself does not make a system better in this way for cooling.

By the way: That's interesting: "evaporative coming trades temperature for humidity"
You just invented a new physics law.

I did not say that cooling because of evaporation does not work. I even gave example that it does work.
Everybody who knows something about physics knows that.
But the heat has to go somewhere. Heat can not turn into humidity. In a greenhouse they suck the moist air + heat out. And when the moist air get's to a colder area or surface it turns into water. Then the temperature of the air will go down at that point. Perhaps that is what you meant.
But if you would not suck out the air, the heat would go up in the greenhouse.
So again: that is what I said... the heat of the water will go into the air and the air is actively cooled (or sucked out)

But my original point you are neglecting: A waterfall system might keep the temperature a bit lower.
But there are many hydro systems that have the same effect.
Just because of a waterfall it will not stay in the mid 70's. It does depend on the temperature of the air.
And if a waterfall could get the temperature down to mid 70's, other hydro systems could do that as well.
You made it look that only a waterfall system could prevent water for becoming to warm

I do agree with you that greenhouses don't use chillers. but most of them also don't use waterfalls. :)
They don't because they know it is not that important. Of course they don't want their water to be 85 the whole time.
Only cannabis growers do it, mostly because they don't understand physics ("colder water can hold more DO", which by itself is true, but still irrellevant). And yes, there are some diseases that love higher temeratures. True.

Aerating water is not that hard. Maximum DO is easy to achieve. Just run a pump every hour or half hour for 5 minutes in a basin and it's done. I have pics somewhere on this forum of the greenhouse where I go often. They just have a few huge basins. They don't measure temperatures, they do no active cooling (only the concrete floor of course) and they run no bubbles, sprayers, waterfalls, whatever.
Just a huge pump that mixes it all up every hour. That's all.

Low temperatures can prevent some diseases, but not all. Some diseases will thrive because of low temperatures.
People (not you) have a big misconception of the amount of DO water can hold and how it gets maximum DO.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
No, I was not incorrect.
I told the same thing: The surface of the area is what does makes a difference with evaporation. But there are many hydro systems that have a large surface area. The surface of water and the contact area with the surrounding air with a sprayers-system can be larger then eb & flow for example. Perhaps your waterfall system has a great watersurface, but perhaps someone elses watersurface and contact-surface with sprayers is bigger.
So waterfall in itself does not make a system better in this way for cooling.

By the way: That's interesting: "evaporative coming trades temperature for humidity"
You just invented a new physics law.

I did not say that cooling because of evaporation does not work. I even gave example that it does work.
Everybody who knows something about physics knows that.
But the heat has to go somewhere. Heat can not turn into humidity. In a greenhouse they suck the moist air + heat out. And when the moist air get's to a colder area or surface it turns into water. Then the temperature of the air will go down at that point. Perhaps that is what you meant.
But if you would not suck out the air, the heat would go up in the greenhouse.
So again: that is what I said... the heat of the water will go into the air and the air is actively cooled (or sucked out)

But my original point you are neglecting: A waterfall system might keep the temperature a bit lower.
But there are many hydro systems that have the same effect.
Just because of a waterfall it will not stay in the mid 70's. It does depend on the temperature of the air.
And if a waterfall could get the temperature down to mid 70's, other hydro systems could do that as well.
You made it look that only a waterfall system could prevent water for becoming to warm

I do agree with you that greenhouses don't use chillers. but most of them also don't use waterfalls. :)
They don't because they know it is not that important. Of course they don't want their water to be 85 the whole time.
Only cannabis growers do it, mostly because they don't understand physics ("colder water can hold more DO", which by itself is true, but still irrellevant). And yes, there are some diseases that love higher temeratures. True.

Aerating water is not that hard. Maximum DO is easy to achieve. Just run a pump every hour or half hour for 5 minutes in a basin and it's done. I have pics somewhere on this forum of the greenhouse where I go often. They just have a few huge basins. They don't measure temperatures, they do no active cooling (only the concrete floor of course) and they run no bubbles, sprayers, waterfalls, whatever.
Just a huge pump that mixes it all up every hour. That's all.

Low temperatures can prevent some diseases, but not all. Some diseases will thrive because of low temperatures.
People (not you) have a big misconception of the amount of DO water can hold and how it gets maximum DO.
Yes, heat can turn into humidity. How do you think evaporative coolers work, anyway?

It's not a new idea; plants have been doing it for hundreds of millions of years.

Don't believe me? Look up 'latent heart of evaporation'.

And stop mouthing off about shit you have no clue about.
 
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