Who do you think will win?

  • HLG

    Votes: 68 90.7%
  • HydroGrow

    Votes: 7 9.3%

  • Total voters
    75
  • Poll closed .
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Terps420

Well-Known Member
How many watts of HLG would you guys recommend for a 2x4?
Id say 250-300 wood get u nice results.. Lighting is key to final product being good but grow knowledge is just as important.. I had qb132's tho. But the 250-300 answer i gave was for flowering. In veg u get away with half that amount. Save power for flowering, less wear on ur equipment, and turned down u can put the lights right on top of plants in veg. Even in flower i had mine bout 6 inches away from tops but need air flow across canopy and on boards. That helpd me. I have no experience with qb 288's tho so ur height might b different. But hope it helps
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Yep 300 watts per 2x4 space would do nicely ( even better with 320 driver / more flexibility).

Think blocks of two when upscaling ( bigger tent / space ) .... and with proper overlap spacing .
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill
Yeah, for now they look okay(only the one on the right has something) but pretty sure some of them will get yellow when it comes to the end.

BTW, try diatomaceous earth against fungus gnats. Simply add a few teaspoons to the soils surface, its just a form of silica and does not harm the plant in any way. The opposite is the case, plants need silica to harden the cell walls.
DE weakens the exoskeletons of insects and they die within a few days when they get in contact with DE. The exoskeletons get soft and they bleed to death.
The stuff gets flushed in deeper with every watering so it also kills their larvea. I would add another few spoons 2 weeks later but only if neccessary. Most of the time a one time treatment is enough cuz DE is not water soluble. It stays in the soil until it gets flushed out.

I'm using hydro correls to prevent the soil surface from drying out. These correls gets powdered with DE whenever I use them. I also mix it in the soil 2 week before I need it and there are no gnats left when doing the way.
I've used 1cup per 5gals of soil.
It really works wonder and works much better like all these fancy oils and its also much cheaper.
It would of course also kill soil living thrips but also bees when they get in contact but the latter don't life in the soil as far as I know..
1kg DE should cost 5-10$ or so..
Im getting it
 

Big Perm

Well-Known Member
You should take reading on glass on and off.
Here are mine. I have them on Mrs. Perm's stuff.
Like hybrid said these are called Alphas. They were 400w greenhouse prototypes. Half of the boards are unhooked, so they run at 200w now. Nothing wrong with the other half though. Same spectrum, they are all the same spectrum except for OHD's one off lettuce rig.
Here is glass on and off. I even cleaned the glass when I hung them up a few days ago.
IMG_20190716_020953.jpg IMG_20190716_021005.jpg
IMG_20190716_022919.jpg
I honestly thought these lights were blurple bullshit a few months ago, but I figured I'd try it out. I would still believe this is all bullshit if I hadn't been seeing impressive results under these lights for myself. I can't wait to see how flower goes on our plants. That's going to be the test.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Blurple is still the most productive spectrum and can even beat 3k results.
That's below is a spectrum used by an Osram company called SanLight but they have switched and use supplemented white diodes with red and deep and far red to create it.
SANlight_Spectrum.jpg

So if you use quality diodes with the same efficiency you can easily get the same results watt for watt. Its not enough to create just a good spectrum it also has to be efficient like for instance the Amare SB-8. The solar spec C spectrum should have a similar looking spectrum with all its red, deep and far red.
Its just cheaper to use white diodes and only a few monochronatics. Unitfarm and a few other suppliers have created good and efficient blurple fixtures but they were too expensive compared to other lights.
Its like with the HGL's, 450 bucks for what 180w? Thats simply too expensive if you need 4 of them to cover a 4x 4' area.
They only need to use better diodes and lower the price per watt and they would have a killer setup!
 

Big Perm

Well-Known Member
Its like with the HGL's, 450 bucks for what 180w? Thats simply too expensive if you need 4 of them to cover a 4x 4' area.
They only need to use better diodes and lower the price per watt and they would have a killer setup!
They did.
This grow is about the x3 model. It has since been discontinued, as in you can't get them now. They aren't keeping them floating along to make money here and there off of random sales. The replacement for this light is the XB140 on sale for $239. Same spectrum, more efficient and up to date. Four in a 4x4 would be $956.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
They did.
This grow is about the x3 model. It has since been discontinued, as in you can't get them now. They aren't keeping them floating along to make money here and there off of random sales. The replacement for this light is the XB140 on sale for $239. Same spectrum, more efficient and up to date. Four in a 4x4 would be $956.
Theres absolutely no proof of the new ones being any more efficient than the old ones since Cammie has never put her lights thru real sphere testing which is standard in the growlight industry.
Just sayin...
 

Ryante55

Well-Known Member
You should take reading on glass on and off.
Here are mine. I have them on Mrs. Perm's stuff.
Like hybrid said these are called Alphas. They were 400w greenhouse prototypes. Half of the boards are unhooked, so they run at 200w now. Nothing wrong with the other half though. Same spectrum, they are all the same spectrum except for OHD's one off lettuce rig.
Here is glass on and off. I even cleaned the glass when I hung them up a few days ago.
View attachment 4365760 View attachment 4365761
View attachment 4365764
I honestly thought these lights were blurple bullshit a few months ago, but I figured I'd try it out. I would still believe this is all bullshit if I hadn't been seeing impressive results under these lights for myself. I can't wait to see how flower goes on our plants. That's going to be the test.
Why not run all the led a half the current? Seems like a waste to have a bunch of led turned off if you can take a ppfd of the fixture with all the boards vs half the boards at the same wattage it would be interesting to see what twice as many diodes at the same power does to output does to ppfd
 

Big Perm

Well-Known Member
Why not run all the led a half the current? Seems like a waste to have a bunch of led turned off if you can take a ppfd of the fixture with all the boards vs half the boards at the same wattage it would be interesting to see what twice as many diodes at the same power does to output does to ppfd
That's a great idea. I'll see if I can.
 

Big Perm

Well-Known Member
Why not run all the led a half the current? Seems like a waste to have a bunch of led turned off if you can take a ppfd of the fixture with all the boards vs half the boards at the same wattage it would be interesting to see what twice as many diodes at the same power does to output does to ppfd
I checked it out. Can I lower the wattage on a PCB?
 

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
you can change the driver probably to do this.
Or may try to do a small solder job and put 2 board in parallel, current should divide (if the boards are the same).
Like this, as a example, please meassure before yourself, haha.
para.jpg
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill
Blurple is still the most productive spectrum and can even beat 3k results.
That's below is a spectrum used by an Osram company called SanLight but they have switched and use supplemented white diodes with red and deep and far red to create it.
View attachment 4365792

So if you use quality diodes with the same efficiency you can easily get the same results watt for watt. Its not enough to create just a good spectrum it also has to be efficient like for instance the Amare SB-8. The solar spec C spectrum should have a similar looking spectrum with all its red, deep and far red.
Its just cheaper to use white diodes and only a few monochronatics. Unitfarm and a few other suppliers have created good and efficient blurple fixtures but they were too expensive compared to other lights.
Its like with the HGL's, 450 bucks for what 180w? Thats simply too expensive if you need 4 of them to cover a 4x 4' area.
They only need to use better diodes and lower the price per watt and they would have a killer setup!
Yeah, you dont know?

https://www.hydrogrowled.com

Shes claiming they'll be up to 2.8 ooohmols/J electrical efficiency using top-bin Epi-Somethings (stars/leds/ect..) ran soft, using twice the amount of diodes per sq' as HLG which was their base model to work off. She took anything & everything growers had concerns about regarding the HLG QB desighns & tweaked it to work with less density issues. Which in turn should allow for closer proximity growing.
Priced decent if they indeed do outyield Premium White fixtures.
Monochromatic diodes have always costed a chunk more then mid-powered whites, so i agree with the use of top-bin Epi's in order to keep costs where they are, (under $2 a watt). You're right, UnitFarm went top-line everything, making them to small to balance manufacturing fees probably. But we know what their spectrum generally produces if its he basic 450 + 660 8 think it is that so many burples chose to use.
Also the QB desighn is the absolute least expensive to create, package & ship. Also the fastest to produce. To me that means if HLG didnt have the price set so high (used as industry sandard now) then other following QB distributors could & prob would offer these at closer to $1.05 a watt. Or we could just put the high cost on NextLight for being the first to distribute the QB style.
Originally designed for the sole purpose of drop ceiling replacement upgrade lighting. I've seen them dated back to early "16" in a KFC remodel job.
Ill be putting x2 or x3 XB-300'S against the Bar-8. Veg - Flower next run.
Just gotta get another Bar'8 & the XB's first. The hard part.
 

Big Perm

Well-Known Member
you can change the driver probably to do this.
Or may try to do a small solder job and put 2 board in parallel, current should divide (if the boards are the same).
Like this, as a example, please meassure before yourself, haha.
View attachment 4366020
Wow, thanks!
I'm going to start another thread for this little project so we don't clutter this one all up any more than I have, sorry.
 
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