Mega Crop vs Dyna-Gro comparison grow

Will MegaCrop hit the 19-20oz yield benchmark?

  • Yes

    Votes: 21 63.6%
  • No

    Votes: 7 21.2%
  • This shit is biased as hell!

    Votes: 5 15.2%

  • Total voters
    33
  • Poll closed .

GrowLightGuy

Active Member
Interesting. Growers across the board complain about 'cal/mag' issues with many different plant foods which to me is laughable. One cannot have both a calcium and magnesium issue simultaneously (unless both elements are missing from the formula) because these elements have an antagonistic relationship. If both elements are present then it is either one element or the other that is the 'issue'.

It's no secret that somewhere in the 1:3 to 1:4 range of magnesium-to-calcium is ideal and many companies not only supply both elements but also do so in the correct ratio, yet idiot growers continue to think that supplementing calmag is 'needed'.

IMO, megacrop has always been a complete food that could be used with success as a standalone food. My issue with them is the high amount of N in their formula when used in hydro. Update coming..

/rant
It is complete, it's the inconsistency of the powder/chunky cal-mag that makes it hit or miss for me. I agree that it's one or the other, but since the two often come combined most refer to both.
 

GrowLightGuy

Active Member
Day 33 today...

There isn't much to report here. The plants are cruising along as expect and megacrop has been pretty consistent in regards to it's use (dissolving, mixing, pH-ing, plant performance, etc.). My complaint here is that these plants are a darker shade of green than I'm used to and I have a feeling that the excessive branching is going to negatively affect yield. I look at it this way: 100 bud sites can yield me a pound or 300 bud sites can yield the exact same amount in the form of smaller, airier buds. Now I'm not one that really cares about bud density as I love me some airy, foxtailing sativa flowers, but bud structure is what I'm really talking about here. Maybe it's too early to cast any predictions but even as recently as day 29 I was thinning out these plants as I could just tell that some of the inner bud sites would develop into larfy garbage. So we'll see how this plays out. I've done the best job that I can here.

View attachment 4405574

Resin shot here:

View attachment 4405575

DynaGro Resin shot below....

View attachment 4405577

DynaGro tray (Possibly day 35) below. It's hard to compare bud size because of the different lighting situations but that doesn't really matter at the moment. What I do notice is that there aren't nearly as many bud sites on the DG plants, partly due to size, but mostly due to the lower N content of DG bloom which results in more desirable growth and branching. The fix with MC would be to replace some of your base EC with a PK booster (so maybe 80% base, 20% booster).

View attachment 4405578
My fist MC grow was 2 white queen and 1 sugar black rose. Total combined harvest weight, 14.3 oz.
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
It is complete, it's the inconsistency of the powder/chunky cal-mag that makes it hit or miss for me. I agree that it's one or the other, but since the two often come combined most refer to both.
My 'rant' wasn't directed at you so my apologies if it came off that way. MC is definitely made up of 'balls and sand' so I guess if not evenly scooped one could get more of one than the other. I have not had an issue yet but I'm also using like 115gs at a time for the reservoir so the odds of a hydro grower not scooping evenly is low, IMO. I'm just trying to give MC a little credit here. I'm trying to be critical but fair. I read somewhere of users blending up the 'balls and sand' into a powder form which is not a bad idea. Unnecessary, IMO, but a potential solution too.
 

GrowLightGuy

Active Member
My 'rant' wasn't directed at you so my apologies if it came off that way. MC is definitely made up of 'balls and sand' so I guess if not evenly scooped one could get more of one than the other. I have not had an issue yet but I'm also using like 115gs at a time for the reservoir so the odds of a hydro grower not scooping evenly is low, IMO. I'm just trying to give MC a little credit here. I'm trying to be critical but fair. I read somewhere of users blending up the 'balls and sand' into a powder form which is not a bad idea. Unnecessary, IMO, but a potential solution too.
it's all good. The most i ever mixed at one time was 5 gallons worth of solution. I dis resort to sifting out the chunks of cal mag,grinding them up in a blender and mixing it all back together. For whatever reason my 20g of MC wound up somewhere around 350-400 ppm on the low end, or 1100 on the high side. That's when i threw in the towel on MC. lol
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
IMO, megacrop has always been a complete food that could be used with success as a standalone food. My issue with them is the high amount of N in their formula when used in hydro. Update coming..
The amount of N is also responsible for more leaves, as you said.
Which line or brand (available worldwide :) ) would you suggest for hydro?
Would Canna Aqua be better to get less leaves?
 

horribleherk

Well-Known Member
I've been pretty quiet & taking this all in really liking your thread not only the comparison but all the other tidbits of info that will benefit you no matter whatever your nutrient choice is I use m\c and notice the balled up stuff in it as well the blender is a good idea I'll let you know how that goes , great thread !
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
I've been pretty quiet & taking this all in really liking your thread not only the comparison but all the other tidbits of info that will benefit you no matter whatever your nutrient choice is I use m\c and notice the balled up stuff in it as well the blender is a good idea I'll let you know how that goes , great thread !
Are you talking about the balls and sand @homebrewer mentioned in the dry mix?
Not sure what your seeing but a blender might not be a good if some of the elements are lightly coated to dissolve slower (the balls).
Some elements like phosphorus or calcium might have a coating to release slower than other elements in the sandy mix to avoid reactions between those that don't play well together.
I'm guessing the balls have elements that dissolve slower and if grinded in a blender might affect solubility.
Not sure just 2c.
 

horribleherk

Well-Known Member
Are you talking about the balls and sand @homebrewer mentioned in the dry mix?
Not sure what your seeing but a blender might not be a good if some of the elements are lightly coated to dissolve slower (the balls).
Some elements like phosphorus or calcium might have a coating to release slower than other elements in the sandy mix to avoid reactions between those that don't play well together.
I'm guessing the balls have elements that dissolve slower and if grinded in a blender might affect solubility.
Not sure just 2c.
Its all blended now lol ... I'll share my results if it didn't go well I'll feed the first of it in the morning
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
Its all blended now lol ... I'll share my results if it didn't go well I'll feed the first of it in the morning
I'm curious. I am only guessing on the slow release vs the quick release.
I figure that is how they are able to make it a 1 part solution without having a bad reaction between things like phosphorus and calcium.
From what I understand it is why calcium is in the 1st part of 2 or 3 part solutions and phosphorus is in part 2 and or 3.
 

horribleherk

Well-Known Member
I'm curious. I am only guessing on the slow release vs the quick release.
I figure that is how they are able to make it a 1 part solution without having a bad reaction between things like phosphorus and calcium.
From what I understand it is why calcium is in the 1st part of 2 or 3 part solutions and phosphorus is in part 2 and or 3.
I only do single plant grows & mix small batches got tired of those balls rolling off the spoon it will take a week to see if I get any negative effect from it
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
The amount of N is also responsible for more leaves, as you said.
Which line or brand (available worldwide :) ) would you suggest for hydro?
Would Canna Aqua be better to get less leaves?
It looks like Aqua Flores (intended for flowering in hydro) is a two part: 3-0-6 & 0-4-4. Combined you're looking at a NPK of 3-4-10 which is OK in hydro for flowering but I think adding more P to that mix would be ideal. So maybe adding DG's Magpro (2-15-4) as a booster would help? Maybe botanicare's Hydroplex (0-10-6), GH's Kool bloom (0-10-10), or Canna's PK 13/14. I think to get the best results in hydro the ratio of nitrogen-to-phosphorous should be something in the ballpark of 1:3. Potassium levels should be around the P levels or higher. Supplying more K than needed doesn't harm the plants unlike supplying excessive N or P.
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
What I like about this topic is that Homebrewer explains a lot about what he sees, what is happening and why it is happening.
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
I think the megacrop will out yield the dynagrow.
What makes you come to this conclusion?
Is it looking at the pics in this thread? Or do you have good experience with MegaCrop?

At first I thought that 1 product for both veg and flower was great, but looking at the different needs of a plant in different stages, I am not so sure it actually is that great.
 
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Renfro

Well-Known Member
At first I thought that 1 product for both veg and flower was great, but looking at the different needs of a plant in different stages,
Yes it is good to be able to reduce nitrogen in flowering and increase potassium and phosphorous. Megacrop, that uses calcium nitrate correct? So dropping cal nitrate may leave you hanging for calcium.

I have found my 3 part GH flora series is still my go to, with stuff like calimagic, armor si, MKP, potassium sulfate.

Someday I may try to replicate the GH products using dry salts and see if I can manage to save money but for quality I have figured out a formula with GH that actually does extremely well in both veg and flower, just adding a little MKP in late flower and reducing micro a tad is all I do.

I have found veg is very tolerant of feeds and often a good flowering feed is sometimes good for veg believe it or not.
 
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