Thanks Irie .I wish I would have thinned them out this time a little more during the stretch . I dont remove colas this far in but I will pluck some fans up until finish. I do like a heavy stone. Some pheno types of Cookies N chem just take that long . After 12 weeks it will still be mostly cloudy with very few ambers and still pushing pistils. One of my Purple Punch 2.0 looks like it will be done with 7 weeks flower time.
I do not add anything to my coco. I to had these problems for a few years until I realized you cant even let the top of the coco get even a little dry once you get to flower . I think guys think the extra bone gum weight is moisture and are simply letting the top and sides of the coco ball get to dry in flower. If its dry enough for a slurry then its way to dry. As long as I keep my Coco what most guys call way to wet all is good . Pretty much every one in my area that has tried coco has failed because they cant get over the fact it works nothing like soil. Scott telling people to treat it like soil is not helping anyone find success either .
That makes a lot of sense, I think improper watering is the cause of alot issues in our world. Soil is definitely a little more forgiving than coco, but I have found better success when I Keep it on the wetter side. I only push drier pots when training roots and even then I Keep the rootball wet but allow the surrounding soil to get more air, once fully colonized its a different ballgame. It is odd that it's preached to treat coco and soil the same when using nectar.......I question alot of what's preached about the line, especially the so called "plays well" nectarfam products. I've given up trying to get answers from Oregons only, I used to email all the time but never got straight answers, especially if it was an against the grain type question. I still can't get a straight answer on all the different NPK #s in the Bible compared to the #s on bottles. They definitely try to control the narrative
I know that this is an old thread, but I just watched an old greenroom video, and Scott Ostrander said that's how he uses it. In transition to bloom, he both drenchs and ffs, but he makes sure they get lots of ca.
What does this refer to? It looks like I answered someone's post but there is no details to what we were talking about, nor in your post......and what is "ffs"??......
Nectar for the gods thread page74. Someone rootdrenched and foliar fed, 'ff"" bloom khaos at the sametime, or in quick secession, and ran into some issues. You were questioning weather anyone else did this.
It refered to my comment but didn't show page so didn't have reference, no worries, I assumed it was prolly BK related but wanted to be sure. The part of that post referring to whether or not anyone else has done it before was not aimed at the BK responses, it was aimed at the dude who wanted to amend soil with MEGACROP or some shit, I didn't think that would play well with nectar.
like alot of my post I gave a quick answer. There is more to it I was hoping to get back to that post and add to it. But my teenage son has other plans for me lately . I have found that at least in coco using NFTG, that the need for GM and MM actually decreases drastically around 4 to 5 weeks in, BK or no BK . I had mentioned to you in a privet convo about how I buffer the rootzone with HH or GM before every feeding, What I dont think I ever got to mention in all the chaos was you can only HH buffer before a high PPm feeding a week or two after stretch, and flower production is in full swing. If you put much of anything other than High PPM feeding in the rootzone with a plant thats in full vegetative swing in coco it will hate you for it. The only thing tricky about flower is knowing when to let up on the GM and MM and go ape shit with Ca. Its usually that first claw after stretch. I think this where Ph gets out of wack for coco growers. Once I know the plants demand for MM and GM has diminished I up the Ca and Add the Buffer soak befor every feeding, I still Keep a good amount of GM and MM in the mix but when Half the liquid going in the rootzone is HH it cuts the numbers in the rootzone way down. At this point Im also running all the other nutes to make the big numbers unlike veg where I am only using MM, GM, DD HH TK. to hit the 1900- 2600 PPMs. Anyways Irie my point is with Nectar and coco Its foot on the gas Feed Feed Feed and more Feed from sprout to around week 5. Then keeping Ph in check is just a mater of not putting shit in the rootzone the plants no longer after and preceding every large feed with a HH buffer . Another important thing in coco I dont think I have ever mentioned is do not reduce DD or mag amped until late . You wont taste mag as long as you pant is still green and semi healthy when you cut it given your not already overusing it.
I might not understand what going on here but I will say that BK is a great tool for knowing if you are underfeeding your plants at least in coco. It takes many high ppms feedings to even start getting numbers up in new coco so I spray and drench My clones 3 days and 3 feedings after first sign of rooting for the first 7 days. At this point I have actually already gave the plant 3 feedings because I do 1 feeding a day before I expect to see roots. If the cuttings start looking shitty right off the bat knowing Its very hard to get numbers up in new coco I will just keep uping the numbers and BKing until the plants pray. At this point I take a coco slurry test and have the number I will live by for the next several weeks. After a week spraying and drenching I drop the spray and just drench at 1 tsp- 4 Tsp for the rest of my plants life except for one week of the stretch where I cut drench back to 1/2 tsp BK and spray again every other day for that week to put the breaks to the stretch a little . I have had guys at the hydro store try to tell me you cant spray or drench a clone in the first weeks. You can do both if your plants are healthy and Numbers/Ph are in check . I actually recommend it to new guys in coco to hone in the numbers.
Spot on . Its easy to overbush with NFTG on its own, no real need to do anything .
Ive never had to deal with it, but finding resistent strains will really help. Check breeders out from Oregon area.
I used plant therapy daily for pm and mist every inch of the tent, drain pans, pot sides, etc on the third day to tackle any remaining spores. Although I've only had it once. I tried that from grow store recommendation. Plant therapy claims harvest day usability. Dr zymes eliminator(using sample) also works well on my veggies with pm.
Thanks powerful flower, But I'm way way way way past that
1st time for me meet two smh, So yeah I'm gonna completely tear it down killing everything starting fresh thank God most of my genetics do come from Oregon breaders....this shit is like Herpes..... Not that I have any personal experience lol.....thanks bro's
Ooooof oh ok then, I've no experience in tragic pm pres nce outside vertical lettuce and even that took us 6mo to get on top of with cease(bacilis subtilis)
