The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
It’s definitely hard to pull the trigger on which configuration to go on. I was looking at the qb272 as well but decided against it due to the fact that a tiny mechanical switch can easily break if used aggressively or simply too many times. Which at that point would leave you in a situation, depending whether the switch broke in it’s on or off position or failed entirely for that matter. If you’re concerned with controlling the additional spectrums, I’d suggest purchasing the qb288 boards with all 301b/h and purchasing the qb11 strips to supplement. They come in 450nm 630nm 660nm 730nm. One qb11 covers a 2x2 area, 20w max a piece, all you would need to do is select the proper driver and spectrums you want.
Id say well said paduwan but youd go all darth vader on me ;) Jk
 

borban72

Member
Are you sure the second option isn't made with Epistar deep red diodes? A lot of the Samsung/Epistar board combinations use 252 LM301B/LM301H diodes and 36 Epistar 660nm diodes. Usually the more expensive Cree diodes are utilized in smaller numbers. I would be concerned with excessive stretch if you decide on the second option.
That is what is the specs states .... I link both .... on the pics the red diods are seem obviously a lot less that 144 .. probably a spec mistake

The QB288 - 480W


The new QB272 - 480 W


or the 240 W with thick 10 mmm heatsink?

What would be your choice and why?
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
So the heatsink on the Bava board is 26mm which is 2.6CM which translates to 1.06 inches, you will have full control over the far red, deep red and UV to dial in your grow. The hard part is to figure out if you want individual units or a 720 watt kit which can daisy chains together and comes with a rail to align the boards. I choose to go individual so I have control over the light placement and can go fill up the room or just a portion. Pick up 5 240 watt units and ask for a discount from either Alwen or Jevon and tell them a friend from Pakistan sent you.

This is not the same thing as full controll of far red/uv: you have switches but how would you put them on a timer? Not saying the light is bad but if you wanna do end of day you still need some more far reds. This kinda light spectrum is very similar to the High lights. Problem i have with these is that i dont believe the spectrum is a good representation of of full power operation. No way does those few uv diodes give that much light in comparison to 240w of samsung. If it looks to good to be true its probably not. But then again i dont think the plants would actually like that much uv, and the light will probably work fine for the price. But there are affordable alternatives, from reliable forum sponsors, readily available.
 

maddmango

Well-Known Member
This is not the same thing as full controll of far red/uv: you have switches but how would you put them on a timer? Not saying the light is bad but if you wanna do end of day you still need some more far reds. This kinda light spectrum is very similar to the High lights. Problem i have with these is that i dont believe the spectrum is a good representation of of full power operation. No way does those few uv diodes give that much light in comparison to 240w of samsung. If it looks to good to be true its probably not. But then again i dont think the plants would actually like that much uv, and the light will probably work fine for the price. But there are affordable alternatives, from reliable forum sponsors, readily available.
Interestingly enough I suggested that the UV and Red/FR should have their own timer built in since we know that 12 hours needed to get flowers and should be the next design however the wiring would change and Alwen didn't say no but he didn't say yes. I will be flipping them to flowering this and if you all want and as I promised I can create a journal as needed.

@Rocket Soul thank you for bringing the High Lights to my attention and with a 20% discount, I might just pull the trigger. For those that don't know about the Aussie company, the forum and the website can be found below.


Interestingly enough I might be able to avoid taxes if they are sent via regular mail and not DHL but then again I plan to visit London in the coming month or so and I may just purchase them from there if DIYUK can exclude VAT charges.
 

Father Fuzzy

Well-Known Member
That is what is the specs states .... I link both .... on the pics the red diods are seem obviously a lot less that 144 .. probably a spec mistake

The QB288 - 480W


The new QB272 - 480 W


or the 240 W with thick 10 mmm heatsink?

What would be your choice and why?
for my 4x4 I went with a pair of 272 240W with crees and uv with switch for some control
one 3000k and one 3500k along with a 50 watt cree 660 red to experiment with
the drivers need some active cooling so a window fan worked out nicely
272 driver fan.jpgheatsinks.jpgKB 272 cree.jpg
 

borban72

Member
So the heatsink on the Bava board is 26mm which is 2.6CM which translates to 1.06 inches, you will have full control over the far red, deep red and UV to dial in your grow. The hard part is to figure out if you want individual units or a 720 watt kit which can daisy chains together and comes with a rail to align the boards. I choose to go individual so I have control over the light placement and can go fill up the room or just a portion. Pick up 5 240 watt units and ask for a discount from either Alwen or Jevon and tell them a friend from Pakistan sent you.

Yes that is right ... Bava is second on my list ... just the epistar leds ... are just second on my list is f you take a closer look on the spectral distribution .. epistars red for me look like just christmas tree illumination .. don't make, a lot of difference. I might be wrong ... Bava light indeed look very net and peofessional...so sorry they don't offer a Cree option . What do you think?
 

borban72

Member
If youre worried about stretch: get 3500k and use the uv switch in vegg. 4mm heatsink: like standard 550 clone. 10mm heatsink: it would be 10 with the fins. Dont worry too much about the options. Keep calm, carry on, and grow some weed.

The space and spread in generall: 480s arent ideal, better off with more singles or doubles. You need about 1200-1300 watts for that space. Maybe 6 doubles, slightly dimmed would be better and cheaper as i can not make that space work with less than 4 x 480s and thats a fair bit of over kill but would work aswell. Price out the options.

But as stated here several times: the red+uv boards arent allways ideal, both in price and spread: personally i prefer white boards (in 90 cri if possible but they almost never have) and then add some red and blue/uv strips, that way you can adjust independently and also do end of day treatment with far reds/IR. Also, building part of it yourself, getting spread and framing right for your space gives you a much better sense of accomplishment. Its scary but all of us had to dive in the first time.

If you really care about growing like a pro get High lights, sponsors here on the forum. I can almost guarantee they will do better than any baba board. They beat out hlg, but you might have to get some extra blue for anti stretch in veg.
Yes, .. you are reinforcing my plans and that is almost exactly what you told. ... just building and making it requires a lot more effort and obviouosly we are humans want to believe in simpler lazy simple solutions.... thank you for opening my eyes .. I'll defienetly try to overcome my lazyness :D
 

borban72

Member
If youre worried about stretch: get 3500k and use the uv switch in vegg. 4mm heatsink: like standard 550 clone. 10mm heatsink: it would be 10 with the fins. Dont worry too much about the options. Keep calm, carry on, and grow some weed.

The space and spread in generall: 480s arent ideal, better off with more singles or doubles. You need about 1200-1300 watts for that space. Maybe 6 doubles, slightly dimmed would be better and cheaper as i can not make that space work with less than 4 x 480s and thats a fair bit of over kill but would work aswell. Price out the options.

But as stated here several times: the red+uv boards arent allways ideal, both in price and spread: personally i prefer white boards (in 90 cri if possible but they almost never have) and then add some red and blue/uv strips, that way you can adjust independently and also do end of day treatment with far reds/IR. Also, building part of it yourself, getting spread and framing right for your space gives you a much better sense of accomplishment. Its scary but all of us had to dive in the first time.

If you really care about growing like a pro get High lights, sponsors here on the forum. I can almost guarantee they will do better than any baba board. They beat out hlg, but you might have to get some extra blue for anti stretch in veg.

one more question .. as I see from specs the Sams Lm301h are all CRI above 90 .... Is that true ... pls see link https://static6.arrow.com/aropdfconversion/bb7b30ddb7f49dcea92e9c0d6f466b99aa769315/data_sheet_lm301h_cri90_rev.1.0.pdf
 

borban72

Member
This is not the same thing as full controll of far red/uv: you have switches but how would you put them on a timer? Not saying the light is bad but if you wanna do end of day you still need some more far reds. This kinda light spectrum is very similar to the High lights. Problem i have with these is that i dont believe the spectrum is a good representation of of full power operation. No way does those few uv diodes give that much light in comparison to 240w of samsung. If it looks to good to be true its probably not. But then again i dont think the plants would actually like that much uv, and the light will probably work fine for the price. But there are affordable alternatives, from reliable forum sponsors, readily available.
I'm not a eletrician but I think it would be great challange to modifify the swith and attach a digital timer on each channel. What do you think?
 

maddmango

Well-Known Member
Yes that is right ... Bava is second on my list ... just the epistar leds ... are just second on my list is f you take a closer look on the spectral distribution .. epistars red for me look like just christmas tree illumination .. don't make, a lot of difference. I might be wrong ... Bava light indeed look very net and peofessional...so sorry they don't offer a Cree option . What do you think?
the reds on the bava are Osram and not epistar
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
Those high lights do look nice, too rich for my blood but it’s nice to know my 48ab drivers will power a pair of the boards.

I wish it was the end of March so I could see what the KB setup can do! Anyone have a grow on the go using China boards with the added Cree 660’s?
 

[ZooWeeMaMa]

Well-Known Member
They should work fine for hlg boards its just that you cannot put an external dimmer on them. Voltage dimming is not really something you need with these drivers since they are for 1 board and wont be abke to give more than the board cab take.

AB dimmers are ideal, onboard and off board dimming.
Thanks for the info, figures that I'd fudge up a little detail like that, lol. Oh well these boards are gonna be driven close to a hundred at all times anyways since these are gonna be my veg boards. At least I know now for when I grab my flower boards and drivers. Only reason I wanted to be about to dim them was because eventually I wanna cover the whole canopy and run then softer like someone around here that I seen. Can't remember his name at the moment though, he's in this thread.
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info, figures that I'd fudge up a little detail like that, lol. Oh well these boards are gonna be driven close to a hundred at all times anyways since these are gonna be my veg boards. At least I know now for when I grab my flower boards and drivers. Only reason I wanted to be about to dim them was because eventually I wanna cover the whole canopy and run then softer like someone around here that I seen. Can't remember his name at the moment though, he's in this thread.
You could allways get more boards and run 2 boards per 120 for soft operation, that way you dont need more drivers.
 

[ZooWeeMaMa]

Well-Known Member
You could allways get more boards and run 2 boards per 120 for soft operation, that way you dont need more drivers.
Thanks for the ideas man, you guys are the shit. Thinking I might just return the drivers and get the AB ones though since Amazon is pretty easy to return shit and I found the AB ones I was supposed to get for 8 bucks cheaper than I paid for the A ones on Amazon anyways. Plus I just really like the idea of having an actual knob for dimming functions so I can crank em down a bit for the little times I'm in the tent working on em. Don't wanna be getting blasted with the force of the sun when I go in my tent and grabbing a screwdriver every time will annoy the shit out of me eventually.
 
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ANC

Well-Known Member
If youre worried about stretch: get 3500k and use the uv switch in vegg. 4mm heatsink: like standard 550 clone. 10mm heatsink: it would be 10 with the fins. Dont worry too much about the options. Keep calm, carry on, and grow some weed.

The space and spread in generall: 480s arent ideal, better off with more singles or doubles. You need about 1200-1300 watts for that space. Maybe 6 doubles, slightly dimmed would be better and cheaper as i can not make that space work with less than 4 x 480s and thats a fair bit of over kill but would work aswell. Price out the options.

But as stated here several times: the red+uv boards arent allways ideal, both in price and spread: personally i prefer white boards (in 90 cri if possible but they almost never have) and then add some red and blue/uv strips, that way you can adjust independently and also do end of day treatment with far reds/IR. Also, building part of it yourself, getting spread and framing right for your space gives you a much better sense of accomplishment. Its scary but all of us had to dive in the first time.

If you really care about growing like a pro get High lights, sponsors here on the forum. I can almost guarantee they will do better than any baba board. They beat out hlg, but you might have to get some extra blue for anti stretch in veg.

UV is very tricky to use correctly without letting the tops of the plants mature way before the rest.

There seem to be 2 schools of thought. One leaves a 24 Uv free period between each UV application to avoid building up UV resistant pigments, the other only applies UV in the last 2 weeks when the buds only have building and ripening left.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
I'm trying to find a super cheap 100W led panel for a friend's business if someone can point me at one of the better Alibaba shops
 

bigmikey86

Well-Known Member
I'm trying to find a super cheap 100W led panel for a friend's business if someone can point me at one of the better Alibaba shops
I’d always recommend KB from my experiences but Meijiu is reliable as well. The company with the cheapest prices I’ve seen on Ali is Yuanhui Led Limited. In terms of a 100 watt panel what exactly do you mean?
 
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