masho95
Active Member
Stripping leaves that are showing a deficiency will not stop a mobile deficiency from spreading.
first time grower need some advice an answers from seasoned grower
- Thread starter padillie
- Start date
yeah i think im gonna pick up some cal/mag see if it fixes stuff
Tangerine_
Well-Known Member
One THE biggest problems I see with folks using heavily amended organic soils like FFOF is going at it with a "hydro" mindset.
And, it can be really really hard to shift away from that thinking
Just a word of advice, be careful Ph'ing your water and only do so if its really out of range. Adjusting a soils ph should be done with amendments (compost to lower or oyster shell flour/lime to raise) or you risk throwing off the cation exchange.
I do not ph my water when using FFOF and my water source has ppm of > 220 with a PH of 8.2. Let the soil do it job of buffering the ph for nutrient availability. Changing the waters ph will not help nutrients become available. The microbes will.
Confusion happens in this regard because if in a soilless substrate (or lightly charged Promix or HF) you would adjust ph.
And, it can be really really hard to shift away from that thinking
Just a word of advice, be careful Ph'ing your water and only do so if its really out of range. Adjusting a soils ph should be done with amendments (compost to lower or oyster shell flour/lime to raise) or you risk throwing off the cation exchange.
I do not ph my water when using FFOF and my water source has ppm of > 220 with a PH of 8.2. Let the soil do it job of buffering the ph for nutrient availability. Changing the waters ph will not help nutrients become available. The microbes will.
Confusion happens in this regard because if in a soilless substrate (or lightly charged Promix or HF) you would adjust ph.
Tangerine_
Well-Known Member
Forgot to add. For you guys growing in amended soil - NFTGs Olympus Up (natural calcite limestone) performs better than potassium hydroxide.
I've found it useful when using "organic" nutrients that have been chelated with acids. Everything just seems to jive better.
I've found it useful when using "organic" nutrients that have been chelated with acids. Everything just seems to jive better.
My tap water is 7.5 I let the batmix ph for me now these are the plants in my tent 1 auto that is very poorly 3 photo one is a cutting the cutting and one photo seem fine in the new soil the biggest photo out of the two is picking back up she’s just left with a few battle scars all the best @padillie
Attachments
Igrow420365
Member
Lol they will eat you alive on here. It happened me for posting my videos from YouTube relating to certain topics I comment on. I say keep it up and just watch your ph for soil and water. Make sure your lights are high/low enough depending on how your plants react to it. Good luck on your journey!
How’s your drainage ????? May be just a pocket of N or some nutes in the soil that the roots have hit and gave slight burns or could be ca
yeah
i didn't amend anything its right outta the bag happy frog ocean forest half an half. read that was a good mix but 3 weeks in problems arose now im trying to figure it out hehe. if you look at my first pics on the post now this pic of the brown spots everything i look up points to low cal. i mean i could be wrong but from research thats what it say. i mean plants are still growing but with issues.
But are you saying dont use cal/mag?If yes then what should i use to get cal up ?
Get some cal mag ASAP and if it doesn’t go away then you know you have a different problem on your hands
Oh its got plenty of drainage. I added more holes to pots an 5 gallon buckets there in.
Ok yea i been at it for like a week now .soil was reading a lil on the acid side so i did light flush with 6.5 7 ph water it put soil back to normal. Its around 6.3 to 6.7 . On to the next step
Tangerine_
Well-Known Member
First off. Don't add anything just yet. When and if you do, use something that is balanced. Its the only way to move forward until you can read those leaves like a book.
You say you were watering with well water?
Well water can be high in iron. Do have access to the last water test?
And flushing is just going to make it worse. You'll water log the rootzone, cause the ph to dive, and leach out your mobile nutes. (I'm trying to get away from the hydo "thinking" but this seems to be the direction were going so...)
When ph'ing the water, are you accounting for the elements? Example - its easy to go over with K and too much potassium will lockout cal, mag, zinc, and iron.
How did you determine the soils ph? Slurry or run-off?
If I look at just the pics? Its presenting K def.
Wish I could be more helpful
You say you were watering with well water?
Well water can be high in iron. Do have access to the last water test?
And flushing is just going to make it worse. You'll water log the rootzone, cause the ph to dive, and leach out your mobile nutes. (I'm trying to get away from the hydo "thinking" but this seems to be the direction were going so...)
When ph'ing the water, are you accounting for the elements? Example - its easy to go over with K and too much potassium will lockout cal, mag, zinc, and iron.
How did you determine the soils ph? Slurry or run-off?
If I look at just the pics? Its presenting K def.
Wish I could be more helpful
Tangerine_
Well-Known Member
Similar issue Matty? Those look to be presenting as P def too.
And for clarity sake or for others reading might be new growers. Deficient doesn't always indicate the need to add more. It could locked out and unavailable.
Low EC of a balanced feed is the way to go in a soilless or lightly charged peat or coco base
Edited for more clarity. Sorry
Last edited:
no i buy bottled water with ph around 6.5.6.8 around 25 ppm .the well water from my house is around 6.8 to 7.2 60ppm i have a tds reader that i used on it . i used soil test kit with the slurry im assuming i put some soil in mix it up let it settle take the water with a dropper.
Tangerine_
Well-Known Member
That sounds like very acceptable water.
I'll read back thru the whole thread. The medium you're using has a decent charge in it and the plant doesnt look old enough to have depleted it yet.
i read i should start adding nuts around 3 weeks .
Tangerine_
Well-Known Member
A couple of things.
Those plants do look good. They're just pulling some K from those bottom leaves.
They're a little young to be in 4 gal or media. The risk of overwatering increases.
Did you flush water thru all that soil? If so, its going to take a while to dry out.
Another thing I forgot to mention. Most amended soils have a low ph out of the bag. Not to worry. The lime just isn't activated yet. It'll balance itself out. Just something to be aware of.
Anytime I've seen growers try to re-adust soil, the problems begin or already present problems become compounded.
I hope this makes sense. I'm trying to burn a doob and eat red twizzlers while I type, lol.
Tangerine_
Well-Known Member
You start nutes when the plants ask for them. The 3 wk mark is just a very general guideline similar to manufacturer feed charts.
Age, strain, environment, all play a role. If you're unfamiliar with the genetics it can often take two to three runs to really dial it in to a point where you know what to add before the plants tells you