DIY with Quantum Boards

hillbill

Well-Known Member
Dont sweat it man, i really dont either. I bought my hlg600 diy kit and came on here and started reading. There are a decent amount of youtube videos on diy builds too, they help a ton! I really hate wiring, but this is as simple as it can get! Once you put your first light together, youll be hooked!
Bears repeating
 

SCJedi

Well-Known Member
nm I went ahead and just ordered what you linked
Its simple. If you have a B style driver with the +/- leads just hook it to a wago and go.

I put my new 480w light together since my Mean Well replacement driver finally arrived. It was all puppies and rainbows until I plugged it in and noticed a bad QB288v1 had a bad row. One email to HLG on Wednesday and today I have the replacement. Stellar service @Stephenj37826 & @robincnn!
 
What ropes/hangers do people trust and use? A lot of brands out there and the occasional review where someone said the support failed and dropped shit. If someone has a go to trusted brand I would like to know please.
 

ianc4990

Well-Known Member
What ropes/hangers do people trust and use? A lot of brands out there and the occasional review where someone said the support failed and dropped shit. If someone has a go to trusted brand I would like to know please.
I like this design. The button on the face is alot easier to find than the trigger on the older ones. But as long as they have metal internals, they are all decent.
 

Federucci

Well-Known Member
I have a question. Let's say I have 2 boards 1 in 3k and the other in 5k...... If I place enough LEDs on each respective board to achieve a theoretical efficiency of 2.7 umol/j will they run the same temperature at the same wattage ? If not why?
From my understanding having studied physics, filaments that are smaller in surface area, given the same energy run through them, will have to run hotter due to the nature of thermodynamics and it is based on resistance. Now these are solid-state LEDs from what I understand, so finding the resistance of different Kelvin solid-state LED semiconductors will yield the answer, and I think the easiest way to find out for sure is to measure the each board temp with an IR thermometer. Here is a chart I found with voltage drop which should correlate to resistance:
Color
Voltage Drop (V)
red2
green2.1
blue3.6
white3.6
yellow2.1
orange2.2
amber2.1
infrared1.7
other2
This just made me more confused lol.
 

Snafu34

Well-Known Member
Seems I did not do sufficient home work prior to purchasing my Q.B. 288v2 Rspec. It's total overkill for my space. 20" dia x 28" tall. Perhaps a DIY strip lighting setup would have been a better choice. Anyway- I have the 135w capable driver turned down to 55w which is giving me 52K Lux (cell phone app) at the center tops which are 10" from the board. I find that the light spread is not ideal with a significant lux drop on the sides. Is there a small light strip I can add to the sides and tie them into the HLG 120-54a ? Am I better off starting over with strip lights ? The 20 di. is not too user friendly for 1ft strips. Shameful cab photo on page 769 Any thoughts ?
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
Your ap is WAY out of wack. That board produces 9800 lumins at 50 watts. That board is perfect for that size psace. Hell I have 2 QB 288 in a 30x20x28 inch space! And it works great. I grow in there and start seedlings, grow clones all under that light, wich is running at 135 watts right now.


this cab:

Dolly Dragon pic2 -5-15-2020.jpg

Seems I did not do sufficient home work prior to purchasing my Q.B. 288v2 Rspec. It's total overkill for my space. 20" dia x 28" tall. Perhaps a DIY strip lighting setup would have been a better choice. Anyway- I have the 135w capable driver turned down to 55w which is giving me 52K Lux (cell phone app) at the center tops which are 10" from the board. I find that the light spread is not ideal with a significant lux drop on the sides. Is there a small light strip I can add to the sides and tie them into the HLG 120-54a ? Am I better off starting over with strip lights ? The 20 di. is not too user friendly for 1ft strips. Shameful cab photo on page 769 Any thoughts ?
 

ianc4990

Well-Known Member
do you just attach hooks or do you use a pulle?
Chain is fine if you arent going to raise or lower your lights. But if you are going to adjust them, ratchets are better. You dont have to remove a ratchet to adjust like you do a chain. And if you have trust issues with 4, 150lb rated holding your light of MAYBE 30lbs, I feel sorry for any woman in your life hahaha (I kid, I kid)
 

ianc4990

Well-Known Member
Your ap is WAY out of wack. That board produces 9800 lumins at 50 watts. That board is perfect for that size psace. Hell I have 2 QB 288 in a 30x20x28 inch space! And it works great. I grow in there and start seedlings, grow clones all under that light, wich is running at 135 watts right now.


this cab:

View attachment 4568704
Those plants look to already be showing signs of light stress. All the serrations on the fan leaves from halfway up your plant are curling up
 

ianc4990

Well-Known Member
Seems I did not do sufficient home work prior to purchasing my Q.B. 288v2 Rspec. It's total overkill for my space. 20" dia x 28" tall. Perhaps a DIY strip lighting setup would have been a better choice. Anyway- I have the 135w capable driver turned down to 55w which is giving me 52K Lux (cell phone app) at the center tops which are 10" from the board. I find that the light spread is not ideal with a significant lux drop on the sides. Is there a small light strip I can add to the sides and tie them into the HLG 120-54a ? Am I better off starting over with strip lights ? The 20 di. is not too user friendly for 1ft strips. Shameful cab photo on page 769 Any thoughts ?
If you have enough room, I would put another qb288 in there and run them both as low as the driver will push. It should help with your hotspot and lack of intensity on the edges
 
Top