DIY with Quantum Boards

[Federucci]

use findchips.com when searching for drivers, I use it to see what's in stock.

https://www.findchips.com/search/HLG320H -C2100b

I used that too, unfortunately the 320H-2800AB was not in stock at the time, so I took a chance since I am not on a time crunch. I figure I might as well support US companies as much as possible. TME in Europe has one in stock. I like the idea of the tunability of the AB series, so why not give it a shot.

Good to know the various experiences here.

 

[Shmozz]

Hey guys!

Looking to build my first little qb supplemental rig, and could use some guidance. I'm looking to add some red to my flower tent with a few hlg strips. I'm looking to add them around my timber 200w cob rig.

My main questions is in regards to heat sinks. Do they make sinks that can fit each strip independently? It seems like all sinks are meant to house multiple strips in parallel. Alternatively, could i place them on the metal frame of my current timber light without heat sinks? Heat is never an issue in the tent, but the dissipation of heat through the frame would be the problem. Any insight is appreciated!!

maybe @Stephenj37826 knows?

 

[TWest65]

So the blue spike is unconverted. The more conversion you have the more electrons turn into heat. The photon turns into electrons through phosphorescent. Some of those photons recombine to make a photon that has less energy(shorter wavelength). Each photon is it's own subsystem so any electrons that are "lost" turn into heat. Photon A and photon Bs electrons do not interact. So if a blue 450 nm photon ends up being a 660nm deep red photon (shorter wavelength than 450nm blue) all the energy(electrons) left over are now heat.

The part in blue is where I'm confused. I don't see how 660 nanometers is a shorter wavelength than 450 nm. A shorter wavelength has a higher frequency. So if I have a shorter wavelength/higher frequency that 450nm, wouldn't I be moving away from the red spectrum, and towards the uv spectrum? Plus I thought shorter wavelengths had more energy than longer ones.

 

[daveybc]

I have ordered Digikey and Mouser and both delivered promptly. Digikey now spams my email and Mouser does not. I once made a mistake on an order, called the next morning before shipment and changed my driver. THe lady at Mouser was very nice and was able to correct the shipment. I will buy all my drivers from Mouser from now on. Service like that is worth a little extra not to mention dealing with warranties ( no warranties yet though )

Arrow, Sager, and Online Components ALL screwed up orders With Sager being the worst: emailed me an OOPS! we're out of stock, when I ordered online they had 100.. Ordered a different driver, the sent me the wrong one! Arrow, sent me the wrong driver and jerked me around for 6 WEEKS getting a refund. I've ordered from Moser several times with no issues at all and excellent customer service for a return of a failed driver. tHey cost maybe a couple bucks more, but I won't order from anyone else!

 

[Stephenj37826]

The part in blue is where I'm confused. I don't see how 660 nanometers is a shorter wavelength than 450 nm. A shorter wavelength has a higher frequency. So if I have a shorter wavelength/higher frequency that 450nm, wouldn't I be moving away from the red spectrum, and towards the uv spectrum? Plus I thought shorter wavelengths had more energy than longer ones.

You are correct..... Writing this stuff a little tired. None the less the red photon is lighter in energy of course. I guess you get the overall drift..... Lol

 

[LarsVegasNirvana]

I used that too, unfortunately the 320H-2800AB was not in stock at the time, so I took a chance since I am not on a time crunch. I figure I might as well support US companies as much as possible. TME in Europe has one in stock. I like the idea of the tunability of the AB series, so why not give it a shot.

Good to know the various experiences here.

I just snagged a couple 240H-C1750AB drivers from TME. They came really quickly.

 

[HolyAngel]

I just picked up two more Rspec boards to run in series with my other two from last fall and these new one's look like they have Cree diode's instead of the Osram SSL's? and are these the LM301H's? Pretty sure my previous boards were lm301b and SSL but will have to wait another 4 hours or so to find out.

Model of the new one's are E-QB288-W-LM301-R-CRE

 

[Airwalker16]

I just picked up two more Rspec boards to run in series with my other two from last fall and these new one's look like they have Cree diode's instead of the Osram SSL's? and are these the LM301H's? Pretty sure my previous boards were lm301b and SSL but will have to wait another 4 hours or so to find out.

Model of the new one's are E-QB288-W-LM301-R-CRE

LM301B & LM301H are the same exact diode.

 

[HolyAngel]

LM301B & LM301H are the same exact diode.

Right I understand that technically they are the same diode, just wondering what actually went on there. Not because it matters, but just because I was wondering. Really the cre/ssl was more interesting to me than b/h. Again, doesn't matter, just wondering ^^

 

[Barristan Whitebeard]

I just picked up two more Rspec boards to run in series with my other two from last fall and these new one's look like they have Cree diode's instead of the Osram SSL's? and are these the LM301H's? Pretty sure my previous boards were lm301b and SSL but will have to wait another 4 hours or so to find out.

Model of the new one's are E-QB288-W-LM301-R-CRE

HLG's website description of the boards changed (LM301B to LM301H) earlier this year.

This is the first I have heard of Cree diodes on the R-Spec boards. If that is what HLG is using now, I would imagine they are XP-G3 photo red 660nm (deep red) diodes. If that's the case they are even more efficient than the Osram Oslon SSL 660nm (Oslon Square are Osram's newer generation and are closer in efficiency to Cree XP-G3) that HLG were previously using.

 

[Airwalker16]

HLG's website description of the boards changed (LM301B to LM301H) earlier this year.

This is the first I have heard of Cree diodes on the R-Spec boards. If that is what HLG is using now, I would imagine they are XP-G3 photo red 660nm (deep red) diodes. If that's the case they are even more efficient than the Osram Oslon SSL 660nm (Oslon Square are Osram's newer generation and are closer in efficiency to Cree XP-G3) that HLG were previously using.

I thought I remembered Mark @welight staying that the Osram Squares were more efficient and overall better than the XPG-3's?

 

[welight]

I thought I remembered Mark @welight staying that the Osram Squares were more efficient and overall better than the XPG-3's?

if I did that would have tasted salty. Currently in commercially available qty, XPG-3 G bin is the best Deep Red Available. I know the pr machine at osram has touted a better chip, but I dont know of anyone who has the top bin and using it(in volume), but happy to be instructed otherwise
Cheers
Mark

 

[HolyAngel]

So yeah I was right

Original RSpecs from fall of last year model #
E-QB288-W-LM301B-R-SSL

New Model #
E-QB288-W-LM301-R-CRE

Definitely interested on that 'cre' meaning and if it's the XPG's or what

 

[Federucci]

I applied Kryonaut to a Bspec driven at about 143 watts from a remotely mounted driver and got the following readings from the heat sink and board after running for about 17 hours yesterday in 25C ambient temps with an IR thermometer, without active cooling yet (cue Ralph Wiggum picking his nose, "I'm a scientist!"):

Slate 2 Dead Center: 52.1C
Board Dead Centerish (highest reading) 51.9C

Interesting that the highest board reading I can get is ever so slightly lower than the heat sink.

So does spending over $20 per board on Kryonaut justify the decrease in operating temp? In the words of Paul Harrell, "You be the judge."

 

[pop22]

under the ultimate light

WW XXL

 

[Frank Nitty]

Mid / late Gotham Limited ( Trainwreck x 79 Xmas bud ) and solo KKP .

Solo KKP got a top dress ( final ) for the next couple weeks of maturity. She’s fading but want to make sure medium is still charged enough for that fading . Adding kelp at watering with a little silica ( added last week ) to temper the Cali heat we been having , which makes them thirsty in 2 days of last watering.

That one is under the QB 304V1boards ( 3500k ) / COB . Those boards will probably be finally
swapped for diablos and will be probably sold. I need a tent , this one has made for about 7 years and is getting some pinholes. So after this plant , tent comes down , tossed and shopped for a replacement.... that’s why I might just “ upgrade “ during that time.

Gotham’s are pretty much neck and neck and will get another top dress soon too.
Those are under QB96 only .... did not use UV on them ... yet. Thinking of flipping timer on those for Monday ( got a new timer ) to get set up for 4 x 3hr ( power on ) during 12/12 for 15 minutes only. Pure UV bulbs can be a bit much running them any longer.
I installed a 10000k finisher to work with the UV bulb instead of rocking a douBle barrel of Pure UV which would be overkill .

View attachment 4561724View attachment 4561729

Gotham Limited - 3 gallon plastic
FFOF / EB Stone - EWC /KELP / Great White / MYCOCHUM
Top Dress fed ph 6.7
View attachment 4561725View attachment 4561727

KKP - 1 gallon grow bag
FFOF / EB Stone - Great White / EWC / Kelp / Silica amendments
Tap 6.5
View attachment 4561726

Peace

OOOOOOOOOWEEEEEEEE!!!!

 

[Airwalker16]

I applied Kryonaut to a Bspec driven at about 143 watts from a remotely mounted driver and got the following readings from the heat sink and board after running for about 17 hours yesterday in 25C ambient temps with an IR thermometer, without active cooling yet (cue Ralph Wiggum picking his nose, "I'm a scientist!"):

Slate 2 Dead Center: 52.1C
Board Dead Centerish (highest reading) 51.9C

Interesting that the highest board reading I can get is ever so slightly lower than the heat sink.

So does spending over $20 per board on Kryonaut justify the decrease in operating temp? In the words of Paul Harrell, "You be the judge."

Damn, 2 gs of the stuff per board Huh? So what are your reading with just bare board to heatsink?

 

[Federucci]

Damn, 2 gs of the stuff per board Huh? So what are your reading with just bare board to heatsink?

More like 9-10gs, lol. I got the 37g (10ml) tube which was like $80 shipped from PPCS. I don't remember the heat sink exactly, but I remember that the board was just over 58C, so maybe a 7-8C difference? I didn't remember to write it down (I'm a scientist!). The heat sink definitely feels a little hotter, which is a good thing. I'm gonna take your advice and get a small fan on it. I also have a fan on the driver, and it feels lukewarm, so that's probably a good idea for efficiency too.

Putting it on the board was a bitch with the small spatula, I just used my finger to try to make it as smooth and even as possible, then gently press the board on from right to left and not overtightening the screws to avoid the board being warped as to reduce the air gaps as much as possible.

 

[Airwalker16]

More like 9-10gs, lol. I got the 37g (10ml) tube which was like $80 shipped from PPCS. I don't remember the heat sink exactly, but I remember that the board was just over 58C, so maybe a 7-8C difference? I didn't remember to write it down (I'm a scientist!). The heat sink definitely feels a little hotter, which is a good thing. I'm gonna take your advice and get a small fan on it. I also have a fan on the driver, and it feels lukewarm, so that's probably a good idea for efficiency too.

Putting it on the board was a bitch with the small spatula, I just used my finger to try to make it as smooth and even as possible, then gently press the board on from right to left and not overtightening the screws to avoid the board being warped as to reduce the air gaps as much as possible.

You shoulda just checkerboard patterned little pea sized drip of it on the back of the board and pressed it on to the heatsink, make one good circular motion as you press down then pull it up and see how it looked

 

[HolyAngel]

Putting it on the board was a bitch with the small spatula, I just used my finger to try to make it as smooth and even as possible, then gently press the board on from right to left and not overtightening the screws to avoid the board being warped as to reduce the air gaps as much as possible.

Touching the thermal paste ruins the thermal conductivity of it. #1 thing to never do is touch the cpu or heatsink after cleaning it before putting on thermal paste, and obviously never touch the paste either. Same thing would apply to this board and heatsink. The oil in/on your hands totally messes with thermal transfer capabilities.

Doing what @Airwalker16 said would likely be easiest with least paste use possible. I used an old credit card I cleaned with iso ahead of time to spread it out over my slate 2's for my rspec's.