You guys think this would outlight a DE 1000w Fixture?

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sf_frankie

Well-Known Member
rob333 said:
1000$ a little to take a pun on bro i cam in around 1100 on all three of mine which is around 420 true watts and i would say its killing a 1000w hps and a little more id say due to a few factors heat not being a issue also getting the lights bullshit close but check my thread out to were u would wanna be that light of urs would be killing my 2 150's and the ssk276 if it is what they say it is
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I’ll take a look. I should have over 1400 true watts. It’s supposed to be good for over 2000umol/s. I went with the 720w over the 660w so I can dim them a bit and set them right on top of the canopy. I’ll probably need CO2 to max them out. I’m not gonna go there until I actually fire these things up and collect the data.
 
rob333

rob333

Well-Known Member
sf_frankie said:
I’ll take a look. I should have over 1400 true watts. It’s supposed to be good for over 2000umol/s. I went with the 720w over the 660w so I can dim them a bit and set them right on top of the canopy. I’ll probably need CO2 to max them out. I’m not gonna go there until I actually fire these things up and collect the data.
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dont dim ya lights ;)
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
hybridway2 said:
Alibaba L/90 lights? Really? I do not believe the claim as i saw recently on another skimpy bar light. No B ratings right? They are Not obligated to tell you that like say a Samsung made light from HLG is because it is made by Samsung.
Just because you bought the right size metal off Alibaba does not justify stating an Alibaba light is what it's claimed to be.
No offense bud.
I call BS.
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Bro, the FIXTURE itself nor it's "rating" has nothing to do with the diodes lifespan. Nothing at all. This is STRICTLY info that's in EVERY data sheet going as far back as CXA-3070 COBs from CREE.
 
hybridway2

hybridway2

Amare Shill
Airwalker16 said:
Bro, the FIXTURE itself nor it's "rating" has nothing to do with the diodes lifespan. Nothing at all. This is STRICTLY info that's in EVERY data sheet going as far back as CXA-3070 COBs from CREE.
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I'm sorry man but it works exactly the opposite. It has everything to do with the lifespan of the diode. Read the links man.
 
hybridway2

hybridway2

Amare Shill
Seams like 720w is what the uva, 630, 730nm lights w/whites will need to be to hit the par #'s but ill double check with the Apogee-620 incase they were basing off the 400-700nm meter on the par-charts. Using the Passport pro. Maybe it picks thise nm's up, idk?
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
hybridway2 said:
I'm sorry man but it works exactly the opposite. It has everything to do with the lifespan of the diode. Read the links man.
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@Chip Green @Rocket Soul @PSUAGRO. @Stephenj37826 @coreywebster @Gond00s @Rahz
Is this true? The info on these data sheets stating lifespan of diodes being 10% less bright at 50,000hrs has to do with the builds they're put on? Because I'm fucking POSITIVE none of these fixtures even from Alibaba are exceeding the reccomended Max tC°
 
hybridway2

hybridway2

Amare Shill
Airwalker16 said:
@Chip Green @Rocket Soul @PSUAGRO. @Stephenj37826 @coreywebster @Gond00s @Rahz
Is this true? The info on these data sheets stating lifespan of diodes being 10% less bright at 50,000hrs has to do with the builds they're put on? Because I'm fucking POSITIVE none of these fixtures even from Alibaba are exceeding the reccomended Max tC°
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Really??? Lmfoa!!! Sorry dude but damn.
Thats what dictates an L rating assuming said binning. Now if you read the link you'd know this as well as the equally if not more important B-rating.
 
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Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Not sure why the dogs are barking and i think ill stay out of this cause im not too sure. I think there was some tests showing that these ratings werent all that acurate, with large depreciation over shorter time? Whats his face on youtube did it and said it had to do with how hot they got. However; the datasheet seems to specify hours and temprature but not drive current. Its fairly possible that running diodes at .4w (the usual in boards and strips except for the diablo) at test temps will make them depreciate faster than running them at .2 nominal at test temp (this condition would probably need external heating).

My take away is to drive midpowers soft .2w, no matter what, and in sub 50C temps. If you cannot make this happen with topline diodes lm301b/h due to cost then try to do it with cheaper diodes, blux or lm561c.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
hybridway2 said:
Really??? Lmfoa!!! Sorry dude but damn.
Thats what dictates an L rating assuming said binning. Now if you read the link you'd know this as well as the equally if not more important B-rating.
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Like I said, brother, I'm not accepting fixtures. Period.
I'm strictly talking about the diode themselves where their data sheets state 50,000hrs 10% output loss within a given min-Max temp zone.
Obviously fixtures have different designs. But none of them are going to be so bad that the diode exceeds the Max temp. 560mm EB Gen2s at 700mA don't even need a heatsink.
 
hybridway2

hybridway2

Amare Shill
@Airwalker16 .
I understand where you are coming from. This is why Shanes test showed double the deportation then stated almost. Because they all built to the Diode data sheets.
The thermal mgmt, diode spacing & amount (more diodes well spaced), where the heat sink is placed, wire gauges, drivers, ect.. (build).
Reading the temp on the back of a sink tells you allot but not the whole story.
I hear a 40•f difference diode+sink compared to the norm will increase thr diodes lifespan or maintain output up EDITTED: 10% longer. There is an equation for this i posted in the Bar-8 thread via link.
Funny cuz the Bar-8 is 40• cooler then everything else aside from actively cooled lights. 110-20• rather then (150-178•) some with far less diodes, others with tons.
Do you need the link again? I doubt anyone read it. Nobody ever wants to read what they don't wanna hear.
Also, every i told you is available through Google.
 
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canope

canope

Well-Known Member
hybridway2 said:
@Airwalker16 .
I understand where you are coming from. This is why Shanes test showed double the deportation then stated almost. Because they all built to the Diode data sheets.
The thermal mgmt, diode spacing & amount (more diodes well spaced), where the heat sink is placed, wire gauges, drivers, ect.. (build).
Reading the temp on the back of a sink tells you allot but not the whole story.
I hear a 40•f difference diode+sink compared to the norm will increase thr diodes lifespan or maintain output up 90% longer.
Funny cuz the Bar-8 is 40• cooler then everything else aside from actively cooled lights. 110-20• rather then (150-178•) some with far less diodes, others with tons.
Do you need the link again? I doubt anyone read it. Nobody ever wants to read what they don't wanna hear.
Also, every i told you is available through Google.
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I’ve ordered from 4 different manufacturers on Alibaba and brought all of them to my buddy who used to be a Fluence rep. He basically told me the same thing you’re stating, heat management. I have a $279 light with lm301b diodes, 650w, it has a higher par reading than my Meijiu and my guy told me it’s basically a pos because of the heat management, I would be lucky if it would last 6 months. That’s why I decided to go with a light that has way more diodes on it at a lower wattage. In short, in my humble opinion I think heat management has alot to do with the lifespan of the lights!
 
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end_of_the_tunnel

Well-Known Member
@hybridway2
I guess its because we have a mix of people coming here. Don't be offended. You have done your part to highlight something you felt was important to point out. Sure its good.

Its an online community. Everyone brings some value somehow, and gets to take away something from the experience too.
 
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