Issues with Kingbrite 288 LED

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Lilmink

Well-Known Member
I purchased 4 of these Lights I plan to run them soft on a 240w driver, hlg-240h-54a, can I connect the driver to one board and then each board connected to the next or do I need each board connected directly to the driver ?
The screenshot provided is how I have it now. I missed the LED section posted thread in place originally if you want to see the troubleshooting I have already done. Old Thread
 

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Digger47

Well-Known Member
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Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
If they wire up in parallel then you should be able to wire them like the picture below...and not need wagos except maybe to make longer lines from boards and driver.
basic info.png
 
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Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
Lilmink said:
This way will work?
Click to expand...
I do not own any QB boards myself, but as long as the terminals on each of the boards are connected to each other (like + to + and - to -) then connecting the wires on either side will work fine. The trick, if you can call it that, is to keep both the +'s and -'s similar in length.
Here is another parallel wiring option.
basic info b.png
See how all the +'s and -'s connect...thats how hard it is.
Just make sure NOT to connect any +'s to -'s or vise versa. ;P
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
He has tried various ways of wiring parallel. (hard to see with the mess of wiring)

But three boards light until the fourth is connected and then half the boards go dark.
Which to me suggests a faulty board or a short on the circuit.

The other thing worth mentioning is his boards are 48v and his driver is a 54a.
 
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Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
OP...do you happen to have a mutlimeter to test voltage and amperage when 4 boards vs 3 boards are connected to the driver?
The driver info says C.V. 54v @ 4.48 C.C. Amps, but does it actually have little trimmer pots in it?
I'm wondering if the driver is just beyond its max with 4 boards pulling 4.32 Amps minimum (specs say each board is 1.08-2.5 Amps) so with voltage being a little higher then needed you may get partial lighting of the boards...but not fully lit because of low amperage.
Also with the long lengths of wire between the boards it can add to line loss values...lower voltage and or amperage then rated.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Mak'er Grow said:
If they wire up in parallel then you should be able to wire them like the picture below...and not need wagos except maybe to make longer lines from boards and driver.
View attachment 4601193
Click to expand...
Yes but you might not have voltage right over all boards, try with 5way wagos to see if it helps. Daisy chaining like this can be done but it is not the equivalent of 5way wago.
Have you tried adjusting voltage thru the little rubbeer covered hole witth a screw driver?
 
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Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
Yes but you might not have voltage right over all boards, try with 5way wagos to see if it helps. Daisy chaining like this can be done but it is not the equivalent of 5way wago.
Have you tried adjusting voltage thru the little rubbeer covered hole witth a screw driver?
Click to expand...
To be honest I'm not fully convinced either way is truly better or worse as long as equal and short as possible lines are used to eliminate or reduce line loss.
I see my way working well and the boards being equal in this way...
If each board = X voltage...with line loss = 1

Board 1 Board 2 Board 3 Board 4
+> X X-1 X-2 X-3
X-3 X-2 X-1 X <-
All should be equal when calculated.
If you were to swap say the + line to the other side then would it not end up with the last board not lighting possibly...due to line loss...or I guess many other possible problems too, but thats what led me to the wago's may adding to the problem possibly and this was an easy test.
I'm still very interested in finding the solution though...lol
Oh and yes I was asking about the trimmer earlier too...not sure if his driver has them...does anyone know by chance?
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
It does, check for a black rubber knob with something the line of Vo adjust or dim. Remove it, a screw in the bottom of the hole does the voltage trim.

As for connections: maybe divide the current in 2 before daisy chaining so each circuit is shorter.
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Moflow said:
See your wires, maybe they're shorting with all that bare copper?View attachment 4601953View attachment 4601954
Click to expand...
That was my first point on his other thread.

Good point on the v drop Mak'er Grow, he did have really long lengths of wire when trying different ways of wiring parallel .
I did ask him to try different combos of boards to see if one was causing the issue and he said it was one board that was not working though im not sure if he actually tested them in all combos or just assumed one was dodgy.

Figured id send him to this section where others are better at diagnosing the issue.
FWIW I run 6 QBs in parallel on a 240h-48a and never seen a problem like this.
Wasn't sure how much the 50-54v driver would affect the state of play with his set up.

Anything past matching drivers to LEDs and a bit of basic build stuff and im out my depth.
 
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Mak'er Grow

Well-Known Member
If you wire only 1 board to driver...repeat same for each board...do they all work properly if its just 1 connected to the driver at a time?
This will make sure its not just a faulty connector or board.
Also try all connectors on each board.
Did you drill/move or widen screw holes?...a few look odd.
 
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Digger47

Well-Known Member
Mak'er Grow said:
If you wire only 1 board to driver...repeat same for each board...do they all work properly if its just 1 connected to the driver at a time?
This will make sure its not just a faulty connector or board.
Also try all connectors on each board.
Did you drill/move or widen screw holes?...a few look odd.
Click to expand...

I agree with the screws. I'd probably remove them just to make sure they aren't shorting the board out.
 
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