Severe mite infestation

[Calbrowno]

Hi folks,

Thought I was having pH problems for a long time and no doubt have been making things worse trying to micromanage things, was looking using my shitty 20x magnifying loup on the leaves regularly and saw nothing - didn't think much of it.

Went out and got a 100x loupe, mites and their eggs are everywhere. I can't provide a pic of my own but the closest thing i've found on the internet is something like this

They look like death and the life is being sucked out of them faster then they can grow..

So I've given my room an extremely thorough vacuum and dusted the tops of leaves with diatomaceous earth with the hope that it'll atleast slow them down..

Firstly.. I don't think these are spider mites, I've had spider mites before and there isn't any webbing and they seem much smaller.


Would just like to know my best course of action from here -- no need to tell me that they are hard to get rid of I am fully aware of that.


Any advice welcome and appreciated.

 

[kmog33]

Kill and sanitize everything. If it’s that bad you don’t have much option. I would sterilize than turn your lights on and wait a week or more to make sure eggs hatch and die in your space.

 

[Calbrowno]

Kill and sanitize everything. If it’s that bad you don’t have much option. I would sterilize than turn your lights on and wait a week or more to make sure eggs hatch and die in your space.

Yeah, with what though.

throwing the plants out isn't an option, as bad as they are I needa work out a way to manage it

 

[Samwell Seed Well]

Russet or broad if they are as small as you say, but you can see both russets and broads under a 30 or 60x scope easily. Look up their body descriptions to identify. Then use known measures of control.

You should try to get 3 products that will affect them differently.

1. Contact killer/something translaminar or translocator for a residual affect(mighty wash, pyganic,)

2. Breeding/molting/growth inhibitor/surface inhibitor (aka Neen, azamax, sufoil-x)

3. Feeding blocker/ingestionable poison/bacterial-fungal insecticide (grandevo , venerate, pfr90)

4.living plants

 

[DaFreak]

Rotate your choice of mite killer and treat every 3 days or so for a month. That will take care of it. I personally like to use
1) Green Clean
2) Azamax
3) Iso/water 50/50 with dish soap

 

[Calbrowno]

Russet or broad if they are as small as you say, but you can see both russets and broads under a 30 or 60x scope easily. Look up their body descriptions to identify. Then use known measures of control.

You should try to get 3 products that will affect them differently.

1. Contact killer/something translaminar or translocator for a residual affect(mighty wash, pyganic,)

2. Breeding/molting/growth inhibitor/surface inhibitor (aka Neen, azamax, sufoil-x)

3. Feeding blocker/ingestionable poison/bacterial-fungal insecticide (grandevo , venerate, pfr90)

4.living plants

Thanks for the info.

Any reccomendations on a contact killer that won't absolutely destroy the leaves? I have just applied an insecticide oil for mites and the like on one and waiting to see how its gonna react..

 

[DaFreak]

Don't worry about the leafs, they will be ok as long as you don't mix whatever you use too strong, but don't be a pussy about it either, hit them hard.

 

[Calbrowno]

Don't worry about the leafs, they will be ok as long as you don't mix whatever you use too strong, but don't be a pussy about it either, hit them hard.

roger that

 

[Samwell Seed Well]

Thanks for the info.

Any reccomendations on a contact killer that won't absolutely destroy the leaves? I have just applied an insecticide oil for mites and the like on one and waiting to see how its gonna react..

I like to use, M-pede when I can be soft and pyganic 5.0 when i need a instant kill

and 100% worry about your leaves. If your applications are killing your leaves you are applying it wrong. Pyganic must be applied in the dark and be alllowed to dry off, it also wants to be applied in a solution thats 5.0-7.0 pH

 

[Nizza]

Sometimes when the plants are small like this, it is a good option to start new ones . On the new ones do what you need to prevent this from happening again while you are trying to nurse back the others

that plant looks very upset!
Maybe some actual pics of your plant and some info like nutrient feed regime and medium type would help

 

[Calbrowno]

I like to use, M-pede when I can be soft and pyganic 5.0 when i need a instant kill

and 100% worry about your leaves. If your applications are killing your leaves you are applying it wrong. Pyganic must be applied in the dark and be alllowed to dry off, it also wants to be applied in a solution thats 5.0-7.0 pH

Thanks. Don't think those products are available where I am. Went to my local horti shop and got a systemic called stop-mite, it's premixed so hoping that it doesn't cause damage

 

[Calbrowno]

Sometimes when the plants are small like this, it is a good option to start new ones . On the new ones do what you need to prevent this from happening again while you are trying to nurse back the others

that plant looks very upset!
Maybe some actual pics of your plant and some info like nutrient feed regime and medium type would help

I would love to if that was an option. Needing to keep to a schedule to keep the perpetual going.

 

[Samwell Seed Well]

Thanks. Don't think those products are available where I am. Went to my local horti shop and got a systemic called stop-mite, it's premixed so hoping that it doesn't cause damage

Look at its active chemical on the back label, its probably pyrethrine or spinosad...or others shit, but thats the actice chemical.


Then look up, its Mode of Action and guage how it fits into a Integrated Pest Management program.

 

[Samwell Seed Well]

Ah a kiwi

 

[Calbrowno]

Look at its active chemical on the back label, its probably pyrethrine or spinodad...i others shit, but thats the actice chemical.


Then look up, its Mode of Action and guage how it fits into a Integrated Pest Management program.

Actives in the one i'm using are imidacloprid, tau-fluvalinate, myclobutanil. -- not exactly an organic cocktail but I needed to get shit done.

Seems as though it's says mites may need multiple applications after a week or so, must be to get the eggs that have since hatched I'm assuming?

 

[Samwell Seed Well]

Oh...well...


It will 100% do exactly what it says. Those are some hard hitting chemicals...

Immidacloprid( the bee shit), and fluvalinate (forbid , 4f, avid) and myclobutanil ( is eagle20 which when present in leaf tissue and combusted vapors off as formaldehyde)....


So use that to clean up, but do not flower a plant you sprayed with that or do it at your own risk...

 

[GrowRijt]

Pest identification is your number one job. Figure out exactly what you are fighting. If it is hemp russet mites I would tear down and bug bomb with pyrethrin and wait a month to start over. Perpetual can be the worst to control them in since you have all stages of growth to attend to. Sorry.

 

[Calbrowno]

Oh...well...


Its will 100% do exactly what it says. Those are some hard hittinf chemicals...

Yep, and they're all in veg, and the ones in flower have only just flipped. Not too concerned.

 

[Calbrowno]

Pest identification is your number one job. Figure out exactly what you are fighting. If it is hemp russet mites I would tear down and bug bomb with pyrethrin and wait a month to start over. Perpetual can be the worst to control them in since you have all stages of growth to attend to. Sorry.

Not an option

 

[Calbrowno]

Oh...well...


It will 100% do exactly what it says. Those are some hard hitting chemicals...

Immidacloprid( the bee shit), and fluvalinate (forbid , 4f, avid) and myclobutanil ( is eagle20 which when present in leaf tissue and combusted vapors off as formaldehyde)....


So use that to clean up, but do not flower a plant you sprayed with that or do it at your own risk...

My friend you are aware the process of systemic dilution? The very same reason why you can't spray once and never worry about them again. There is a 2 week with holding period, after which the compounds begin to breakdown and release

I will have a minimum of 10 weeks before I can even do anything with them

And, I'm not planning to use it again, just hit them once and hard then resort to neem for preventing