jondamon
Well-Known Member
PH is just that. Ph. It measures the acidity or alkalinity of your nutes.
EC measures the total dissolved salts in your nutes.
Feeding in coco help and advice please
- Thread starter Summetspeacial303
- Start date
-
- Tags
- coco
PH is just that. Ph. It measures the acidity or alkalinity of your nutes.
EC measures the total dissolved salts in your nutes.
Summetspeacial303
Member
Yeah get that mate , but with the water it’s the same process to adjusting it with a ec stick or a ph stick to measure ?
jondamon
Well-Known Member
PH adjustment is done using pH up or down.
EC adjustment is done by either adding more nutes to make it a higher number or by adding more water to make it a lower number.
Then when you’re happy with your EC value you adjust pH.
jondamon
Well-Known Member
For example.
My EC Values during my cycle allowing for 0.2EC being my source water.
Seedling early veg 0.6EC
mid veg 0.8-1.0 EC
Late veg early flower 1.0-1.2EC
Stretch phase 1.2-1.4EC
Mid flower 1.2EC
Late flower reducing from 1.2-0.8EC by the time I finish.
This is my source water 0.2 plus my nutes up to the EC shown above.
So for example.
Seedling and early veg.
Source water 0.2
Nutes 0.4
Total 0.6EC.
My EC Values during my cycle allowing for 0.2EC being my source water.
Seedling early veg 0.6EC
mid veg 0.8-1.0 EC
Late veg early flower 1.0-1.2EC
Stretch phase 1.2-1.4EC
Mid flower 1.2EC
Late flower reducing from 1.2-0.8EC by the time I finish.
This is my source water 0.2 plus my nutes up to the EC shown above.
So for example.
Seedling and early veg.
Source water 0.2
Nutes 0.4
Total 0.6EC.
jondamon
Well-Known Member
If you work your way through the 7 pages of my journal I posted you’ll understand more of what I’m talking because I explain exact EC amounts of each nutrient I’m using.
I only use a couple of nutes.
Grow base nutes A/B
PK booster (only small amounts used)
Calmag
Epsom salts.
pH down
That’s it and not all are used together.
For most of the grow I only use A/B and the Calmag.
I use a PK booster lightly during weeks 4-7 of 12/12 but I also elevate levels of Calcium and Magnesium during this time too.
After around week 5 of 12/12 I start adding a pinch of magnesium sulphate (Epsom salts) to the top of my coco and water it in with their normal nutrients for that week.
Summetspeacial303
Member
Yeah bro that’s what’s I’m saying it’s adjusted the same as adjusting your ph
Summetspeacial303
Member
Wicked bud , I’ll take a good read just laying slabs atm lol stressing me out
Summetspeacial303
Member
My question wasn’t about ec if u look that got brought up throughout the conversation , I’m here for all aspects of this ? That’s come across like you have a problem with me asking for help mate ?
Summetspeacial303
Member
Since I’ve been told about this Ec today First thing I’ll be doing is buying a meter and understanding how it work
larrypizzimp93
Well-Known Member
20L pot I think is kinda big for coco. especially for the size those are. When I ran 5 gallon pots I had all different problems but just started using much smaller pots and watering every other day till they get big then everyday and they're looking good
steve870
Well-Known Member
smaller pots are easier to gauge and grow plants as large as you want.with multi feeding
tropical beginner
New Member
Here's the thing with coco mate. It's hydroponics. It's inert. Ie, does nothing.
Just a big ol empty sponge to hold roots, nutes and air.
It's nice and airy so the more you water it, the more air the roots get and the better the plant can breath.
It's almost impossible to over water it but if you don't water enough you'll get garunteed dramas.
The reason being, when it dries out, so do the nutes. They turn back into salts and build up...very quickly.
So you can see this and know I'm not wrong, make some of your usual nutes up.
Check the ph and ppm then run some through a pot. Collect the first 200ml that comes back out and check the numbers for that.
You'll see the ppm is higher than what you put in. Ppm is a measurement of TDS total dissolved solids. In this case, its the amount of salt in the liquid.
Bear in mind it's a diluted result too so what's in the pot is much higher.
This build up in turn fucks your ph. Once your ph goes you'll get nutrient lockouts.
Looks like cal and/or mag def at first then gets worse pretty quick.
If youre good at dosing nutes, regulating ph swings and know how to read plants well. then you can absolutely get away with being lazy regarding the watering but ... You're here asking the question so you won't manage it.
Just feed every day to run off mate.
What that does is flushes out some of the salt build up. Resets the ph of the pot and resets the nute levels.
You want what's in the pot to be exactly what you're feeding it. That way if anything starts to look off it's easy to see what's needed because everything's pretty balanced.
Too much of one nute locks out another,
Poor ph can cause too many possible issues to mention.
If you feed every day to run off though then you bring the risk of these possible dramas down to almost zero.
For seedlings 200ppm nutes plus the water.
For veg 400-500ppm nutes plus the water.
Fir bloom 500-800ppm plus the water.
Ph5.7-6.3, best to stick to the higher end once you hit bloom.
Feed every day to full saturation and run off.
If you do that then you've got the highest possible chance of having a perfect run as that behaviour cancels out the possibility of 99% of all related dramas.
Hope that helps buddy
I live in equatorial, i plants in soil and hempy buckets due to root problems of super heat in tropical climate. I read in the previous post that it is much better to do watering until completely dry (he makes very sense arguments). how about in Hempy do you thinks ? to water everyday or let the hempy bucket to dry first before watering againHere's the thing with coco mate. It's hydroponics. It's inert. Ie, does nothing.
Just a big ol empty sponge to hold roots, nutes and air.
It's nice and airy so the more you water it, the more air the roots get and the better the plant can breath.
It's almost impossible to over water it but if you don't water enough you'll get garunteed dramas.
The reason being, when it dries out, so do the nutes. They turn back into salts and build up...very quickly.
So you can see this and know I'm not wrong, make some of your usual nutes up.
Check the ph and ppm then run some through a pot. Collect the first 200ml that comes back out and check the numbers for that.
You'll see the ppm is higher than what you put in. Ppm is a measurement of TDS total dissolved solids. In this case, its the amount of salt in the liquid.
Bear in mind it's a diluted result too so what's in the pot is much higher.
This build up in turn fucks your ph. Once your ph goes you'll get nutrient lockouts.
Looks like cal and/or mag def at first then gets worse pretty quick.
If youre good at dosing nutes, regulating ph swings and know how to read plants well. then you can absolutely get away with being lazy regarding the watering but ... You're here asking the question so you won't manage it.
Just feed every day to run off mate.
What that does is flushes out some of the salt build up. Resets the ph of the pot and resets the nute levels.
You want what's in the pot to be exactly what you're feeding it. That way if anything starts to look off it's easy to see what's needed because everything's pretty balanced.
Too much of one nute locks out another,
Poor ph can cause too many possible issues to mention.
If you feed every day to run off though then you bring the risk of these possible dramas down to almost zero.
For seedlings 200ppm nutes plus the water.
For veg 400-500ppm nutes plus the water.
Fir bloom 500-800ppm plus the water.
Ph5.7-6.3, best to stick to the higher end once you hit bloom.
Feed every day to full saturation and run off.
If you do that then you've got the highest possible chance of having a perfect run as that behaviour cancels out the possibility of 99% of all related dramas.
Hope that helps buddy
Teag
Well-Known Member
If you are growing in soil then waiting until the pot is light is great.
If you are going in coco then you want to wait until it is only 10% dry. Do not let coco dry out.
Hempy, never done but your maintaining a reservoir basically...don't think you would want that to dry out.
EvilScotsm@n
Well-Known Member
I haven't got much of a clue about soil growing mate. Never tried it but pretty much everything I said there is the complete opposite.
The confusion people get when figuring this stuff out comes from not realising the differences.
If you grow in coco and do what soil growers do you get nothing but dramas and weird shit.
If you grow in soil and listen to a coco grower your plants will be dead in a week.
Hempy is a little bit different. Because the res is there it's more forgiving than coco dtw. Can go longer without the nutes building up.
Its still best practice to feed them every day but definately nowhere near as necessary unless the plants are particularly big.
20litre hempy with a 4oz kinda plant should be able to go 2 days no worries in between feeds. I don't feed mine every day but I'm pretty good at reading the plants and dosing accordingly.
If you're unsure then it's best to feed more often to limit the possible variables.
That all make sense bud?
tropical beginner
New Member
thanks for your answer
tropical beginner
New Member
I am not an expert in hempy , but there are good hempy topics in this rollitup.org . I started growing weed in just a year. I tried soil which is OK but rather slow, i tried DWC which is great at start but i had problems with root at later times as temperature here in my country is 86 F everyday. I started to move indoor as i had seen 3 drones flied over my roof in the last 10 months (i could not sleep in one of those 3 occasions) - you will be in a real deep shit if police caught you growing cannabis.
In my grow room indoor temperature is around 90 F due to heat from lights, so DWC is almost impossible, then i found about Hempy which is until now all my plants looking OK and Healthy. I will save my Air con until flowering time to reduce the cost of electricity. I want to try coco perlite soon to see if this method is good also, since coco coir is cheaper than perlite vermicule in my country.
I would love to get some really good genetics seed, but i have to wait until i can fly again to europe to get some seeds. Untill then i just plant unknown seeds and clone them and enjoying the growing experiences.
Buddernugs
Well-Known Member
What was your yeild in that pic? Looks like a nice haul
jondamon
Well-Known Member
I never know my final yield until it’s all boxed up.
still haven’t finished boxing it all yet.
I’ll estimate and say 400g it’s probably more but I’ll update my thread when I know.
Weights aren’t usually a priority for me and I’m lucky enough that my drying area is perfect variables for curing too.
so I tend to leave it hanging and manicure when I feel like it.