Samsung H series strips, Arrow seems to be blowing them out! what a deal!

[TintEastwood]

Surprised to see these 20 packs in stock. 4k, 90cri

BXEB-L0560Z-40G2000-C-C3 in Tray by Bridgelux | Linear Mid Power LED Modules | Future Electronics

EB Series Gen 3 2ft 4000K 90CRI 2200lm 160lm/W

www.futureelectronics.com

 

[vitalsine]

Got all my strips! Wanna work on building some lights soon. I'm gonna be trying to cover a 5x5 with one. Anyone have any recommendations on driver/combination of drivers for such a setup? I'm thinking somewhere between 850-1000 watts. Wanna do this light first then I'll worry about the others once I've learned a thing or two!

 

[vitalsine]

Got all my strips! Wanna work on building some lights soon. I'm gonna be trying to cover a 5x5 with one. Anyone have any recommendations on driver/combination of drivers for such a setup? I'm thinking somewhere between 850-1000 watts. Wanna do this light first then I'll worry about the others once I've learned a thing or two!

Also wondering if its possible to stick some far/deep red and blue diodes in between the strips?

 

[getogrow]

meanwell sp-750-24
as long as i keep everything at 24v, will this driver work ? why spend the extra on the hlg series? is it because they are CV+CC ? thanks all!

 

[Barristan Whitebeard]

meanwell sp-750-24
as long as i keep everything at 24v, will this driver work ? why spend the extra on the hlg series? is it because they are CV+CC ? thanks all!

Are you thinking you might get the used SP-750-24 from eBay that you posted in the other thread? Unused models look to be selling for $190 or more, and they have a three year warranty. Does that used power supply have any kind of warranty?

Unlike HLG Series drivers, you cannot adjust the current applied to the LEDs with this power supply. Only the voltage can be regulated.

There is no IP rating for this power supply either, so I would locate it a short distance away from the canopy area. HLG drivers are rated either IP65 or IP67. "A" and "AB" models are IP65 rated. "B" models are IP67 rated. The HLG Series drivers have a seven year warranty.

Have you seen the datasheet for this power supply? NRND is written across it, as in Not Recommended for New Designs. The SP-750-24 has been supplanted by the newer and more versatile RSP-750-24.

 

[getogrow]

Are you thinking you might get the used SP-750-24 from eBay that you posted in the other thread? Unused models look to be selling for $190 or more, and they have a three year warranty. Does that used power supply have any kind of warranty?

Unlike HLG Series drivers, you cannot adjust the current applied to the LEDs with this power supply. Only the voltage can be regulated.

There is no IP rating for this power supply either, so I would locate it a short distance away from the canopy area. HLG drivers are rated either IP65 or IP67. "A" and "AB" models are IP65 rated. "B" models are IP67 rated. The HLG Series drivers have a seven year warranty.

Have you seen the datasheet for this power supply? NRND is written across it, as in Not Recommended for New Designs. The SP-750-24 has been supplanted by the newer and more versatile RSP-750-24.

ok , that helps a little bit. i understand the ip rating. thats not a big concern for me.
the warranty info helps a bit too but i also understand that.

The one i posted also has a lower efficiency rating.
I did not notice if the one i posted was new or not as i seen several new ones that were the about the same.

My main question is will it work? the sticker said 24v output with 0-31amp current. So isnt that a CV driver with adjustable current ? Thanks again !

my theory is that i can wire in parallel at 24v and split the current between however many boards i choose to run ?


im also not on any kind of budget ....im just trying to understand more.

 

[getogrow]

now im testing different drivers i found. just cheap crap out of old blurples. i see now , they not only mislabel the lights , they mislabel the drivers inside too. i took apart a "2000watt" light and found 6 drivers that all say "output: 12v 200-300watts max power"
I have no idea what the actual current is yet but i know the output is saying 105v on my testers. i wired 4x h series all in series hoping to get close to that 105 volts my tester was reading and it fired um up pretty bright.

next test was another junk led driver that says "output: 30-10v 600mA" .....that one is reading 46-50v on my tester so i wired up 2x h strips in series to get 48v and they fired right up bright. i also tried just one strip on that driver and to my surprise it did not blow it up.
Going by the labels and the actual test im still kinda confuised but im ready to grab me a real driver and build some lights now!

 

[getogrow]

ok so i took another measurment and it looks like these lil drivers are putting out 70 watts at 105 volts. i got 6 of them out of an old light, so i can easily run 4xh strips off each driver and have about 17 watts going to each strip. no heatsink needed either. this is great. i got 420 actual watts for 30 bucks ish....

 

[vitalsine]

ok so i took another measurment and it looks like these lil drivers are putting out 70 watts at 105 volts. i got 6 of them out of an old light, so i can easily run 4xh strips off each driver and have about 17 watts going to each strip. no heatsink needed either. this is great. i got 420 actual watts for 30 bucks ish....

Did you buy some cheap used lights or were they ones you already had? Probably not a bad idea to buy some shitty blurples and leds off craigslist and strip the drivers?

 

[getogrow]

Did you buy some cheap used lights or were they ones you already had? Probably not a bad idea to buy some shitty blurples and leds off craigslist and strip the drivers?

mine came from a friend for free.
i cannot honestly sit here and tell you if they are worth a few bucks or not. i will post more info after using them. The label says 12v output but its actually 105v and 4 of them 24v strips is pulling .67 amps or 70 watts. So 4x24.2v is 97v i need to give them strips and im giving them 105v so that may burn them out very quick , i dont have a clue.

 

[cobshopgrow]

ive never heard of that drastically mislabled drivers, even from the deepest chinese province.
take care.
you can often guess a bit how capable a driver is from its size, not always but often.

i can imagine its tempting to build as cheap as possible, but would consider some drivers who are labeled right.

what voltage do you need?
maybe there is a cheap trick on ebay.
once @1212ham used a dell notebook powersupply.
xbox power supplys are cheap too (while beeing just 12V), you get the idea, there will be plenty good stuff on ebay.

 

[getogrow]

ive never heard of that drastically mislabled drivers, even from the deepest chinese province.
take care.
you can often guess a bit how capable a driver is from its size, not always but often.

i can imagine its tempting to build as cheap as possible, but would consider some drivers who are labeled right.

what voltage do you need?
maybe there is a cheap trick on ebay.
once @1212ham used a dell notebook powersupply.
xbox power supplys are cheap too (while beeing just 12V), you get the idea, there will be plenty good stuff on ebay.

im not "trying" to be cheap....im trying to learn the basics so i dont melt boards.
i think i understand the basics now from my own testing. what i do not understand is how the voltage changes with these junk drivers. how does it know im only using one board at 22v and 2 boards at 45v ? These are constant current drivers .....one little one is 600mA and the bigger ones are about .67a at 70 watts.

 

[Rocket Soul]

im not "trying" to be cheap....im trying to learn the basics so i dont melt boards.
i think i understand the basics now from my own testing. what i do not understand is how the voltage changes with these junk drivers. how does it know im only using one board at 22v and 2 boards at 45v ? These are constant current drivers .....one little one is 600mA and the bigger ones are about .67a at 70 watts.

Cc drivers have constant current, and a voltage range (for example say 72-143V of the popular hlg185h-c1400). While inside this range your driver will always output the same 600mA. As long as your chips can take 600mA you can just keep on adding strips in series to figure out the voltage range of your unknown drivers: when it wont light up again or loses intensity you know your one strip too many.

But i agree with Cobs: no real point in using second hand blurple drivers. They will be much less efficient, matching top diodes with shitty drivers nullifies any efficiency gained by getting good diodes. Say your driver is 20% less efficient than some decent up to date drivers (for example the meanwell xlg series, which is quite cheap) :
Your whole samsung setup with driver losses ends up being about as efficient as decent led lightbulbs (back of the hand calculations).
Secondly, if you buy drivers perfectly matched with your system you win a bit of efficiency again.
Of course all of this depends on the individual situation.

Another issue is reliability: the china blurple drivers are likely to break down at some point not too far in the future. If this means your crop gets messed up, how much is the loss to you? Buying weed in the dispensary during a month? Will this cost you more than the 45$ a reliable 240w driver with years of warranty? How much where you prepared to spend on a bag before growing? There is such a thing as spending too much on a light but also spending too little...

 

[getogrow]

Cc drivers have constant current, and a voltage range (for example say 72-143V of the popular hlg185h-c1400). While inside this range your driver will always output the same 600mA. As long as your chips can take 600mA you can just keep on adding strips in series to figure out the voltage range of your unknown drivers: when it wont light up again or loses intensity you know your one strip too many.

This is mostly the info i was looking for.
I feel like i need to know how these things work before building my own with quality parts so im using cheap parts to figure it all out.
i wasnt geting the straight answers i was asking for so i had to do a lil testing for myself.

now after playing with a few boards and drivers , i figured it out for the most part. i NOW understand why i would wire one way vs another and several other things i didnt know before the tests. Thank you for your help and direct answer to my question.

 

[getogrow]

back to another basic question. If i use CV then i can adjust the wattage using the current? why would one want to adjust the voltage ? thanks again.

 

[1212ham]

ive never heard of that drastically mislabled drivers, even from the deepest chinese province.
take care.
you can often guess a bit how capable a driver is from its size, not always but often.

i can imagine its tempting to build as cheap as possible, but would consider some drivers who are labeled right.

what voltage do you need?
maybe there is a cheap trick on ebay.
once @1212ham used a dell notebook powersupply.
xbox power supplys are cheap too (while beeing just 12V), you get the idea, there will be plenty good stuff on ebay.

The xbox supplies are a great if you need 12V. The big ones are 16 amps, 200 watts.

A link to the laptop supply in use.

DIY led for 50x50x100 (~1,5x1,5x3ft)

Hello guys I need help from you. I've read tons of stuff about led lights, cobs and qb's. And I want to start growing on my own. I have unused cabinet 50x50x100 (or 120) which I want to use as grow box. Planning on growing 1 (max 2 plants if I get wider box). Question is what light would be...

www.rollitup.org

 

[loco41]

back to another basic question. If i use CV then i can adjust the wattage using the current? why would one want to adjust the voltage ? thanks again.

Check out ledgardener website, lots of good info/videos on drivers over there.

My understanding is that the voltage can be "set" so that if a board/strip fails, the driver will be limited to that specific voltage instead of increasing since more current will be available to the remaining strips/boards. So I think of it as a kind of safety net when wiring in parallel.

Edit: for the record, I have two boards wired in parallel to an hlg-185-48-a driver. Set the voltage max at like 200 watts, and now only use the current dial to adjust my boards to the wattage I want.

Not sure if any of this helps, but good luck moving forward sir.

 

[getogrow]

Check out ledgardener website, lots of good info/videos on drivers over there.

My understanding is that the voltage can be "set" so that if a board/strip fails, the driver will be limited to that specific voltage instead of increasing since more current will be available to the remaining strips/boards. So I think of it as a kind of safety net when wiring in parallel.

Edit: for the record, I have two boards wired in parallel to an hlg-185-48-a driver. Set the voltage max at like 200 watts, and now only use the current dial to adjust my boards to the wattage I want.

Not sure if any of this helps, but good luck moving forward sir.

yes this does help. this tells me your boards are 48v each, with about 100 watts to each?
so you have your voltage turned "up" ? The HLG series is confusing because its constant current and constant voltage i believe.
Then on your setup , you use the current adjustment for dimming/lowering the watts, correct ? thanks loco

 

[loco41]

yes this does help. this tells me your boards are 48v each, with about 100 watts to each?
so you have your voltage turned "up" ? The HLG series is confusing because its constant current and constant voltage i believe.
Then on your setup , you use the current adjustment for dimming/lowering the watts, correct ? thanks loco

So when I first wired it up, I turned the vo (volts) all the way up and the io (current) all the way down. I then plugged it in and slowly turned the current up until I saw the watts from the wall I would use as the absolute max, the hlg 185 a goes beyond even the 200 I limited it to but figured that was a safe max to set it at. Next, I slowly turned the vo down until I saw the watts on my kilowatt just begin to drop. Now, I leave that vo dial where it's at and know that no matter how high I turn the current dial up, it will never pull more than 200 watts total because its voltage is limited to that specific number. So the current dial is all I use to adjust wattage now, but also if one board fails, the other board is only able to pull that set voltage limit so I know I won't fry the remaining board in case of a failure.

Sorry I'm horrible at explaining things in a proper fashion, but again from my understanding, the boards will pull as many volts as possible for the given current. Not exact numbers, but say each of my boards pulls 48 volts at a current of 1000ma when all things are running proper. If one board fails, the remaining board will try to pull the full 2000ma from the driver if the voltage is not limited which may or may not be an issue depending upon the board. If the voltage is limited to 48v in this case, the one working board will only be able to pull the same 1000ma that it was before the failure to the other. I'm pretty sure the cc/cv drivers will switch automatically to whatever your boards/strips are demanding.

Sorry man, I tried and hope this makes sense, but someone will be sure to stop in here and clarify the ramblings I just threw at you.

 

[getogrow]

ive watched a lot of videos and i understand a lot of it and some i still do not. i think my "issue" is wanting to know more then i actually need to know to build these lights.
Im going to grab a HLG 480 or 600 from arrow to power 24x h series strips. im probably going to wire in parallel with fuses unless i can figure out a just as "safe" way without the fuses. That setup there will give me about 3-400 watts for veg light/s, running them nice an soft. (my theory)

All that being said , its great to have these junk drivers laying around because it taught me a lot and it shows me an actual footprint of what im going to be doing. Its also showing me that running 600mA to a strip thats rated for 1200mA is still going to be plenty of light.