Samsung H series strips, Arrow seems to be blowing them out! what a deal!
- Thread starter haze010
- Start date
getogrow
Well-Known Member
I work at naysa. How do you think i can afford all these top bin parts?
Actually the design was originally stolen from ESA , by naysa, then i stole it from them with my superior hacking skills!
right now , the carbonater is fucked over on engine 3 so im gonna have to get some calmag to fix it. no big deal
ilovereggae
Well-Known Member
2ft 3000k @ $4.82
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4 ft 3500k @ $8.40
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Hello everybody, new here, been lurking a while. Was planning on building some lights when i came across this thread, what a goldmine!
Just ordered these: SI-B8U152560WW M-series, 3500k, 14 watts for $0.83 /piece.
They are 24V and I have a couple 500w 48v power supplies, i should be able to wire the strips in groups of 2 in series right? I've seen it been discouraged but if the voltage drop is equal enough over the strips i don't see the problem? Any input?
Just ordered these: SI-B8U152560WW M-series, 3500k, 14 watts for $0.83 /piece.
They are 24V and I have a couple 500w 48v power supplies, i should be able to wire the strips in groups of 2 in series right? I've seen it been discouraged but if the voltage drop is equal enough over the strips i don't see the problem? Any input?
getogrow
Well-Known Member
your on the right track. 2 series will work.
As for voltage drop an such , i have a perfect example for yall and i need help to figure out why. maybe this will help you too.... heres a pic...i got 8 strips in parallel x 2 series and depending on where i put the wires makes them light up at a different current/brightness...
I didnt draw out the whole setup but heres the picture: If i wire like this then all the outter strips gets less current/voltage then the inner strrips. ? not sure why... Now if i wire in series from the driver to the outside strips then it all looks equal. Whats going on here ?
I would assume the resistance of the wires. Here's some info: https://hitlights.com/blogs/news/what-is-voltage-drop-or-why-are-my-strips-dimming
Shorter and thicker wires should solve it.
Shorter and thicker wires should solve it.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Bakad! Me thinks theres a fellow scando behind that handle
Im afraid the strips seems to be rated at 26V as per arrow. Some drivers have abit of extra headroom or voltage regulation so you mightt be in luck. The principle of 2 in series is sound though, and it also makkes connections easier, as well as being able to use one alu channel for sinking 2 strips. B
getogrow
Well-Known Member
i dont "like" the wire im using but it should not be doing this. (18g solid) When i wired it the first way , the wires coming from the driver are short. doing it the other way , the wires are longer. The shortest wiring is where i lost volts/current. Thats why im so confused. If i run the wire all the way to the outside strips then it lights up fine. (2 ft pieces of wire vs 6" of wire)
Thanks for the help sir
Sure is, swede hereBakad! Me thinks theres a fellow scando behind that handle
Im afraid the strips seems to be rated at 26V as per arrow. Some drivers have abit of extra headroom or voltage regulation so you mightt be in luck. The principle of 2 in series is sound though, and it also makkes connections easier, as well as being able to use one alu channel for sinking 2 strips. B
The psu's are PSP-500-48 and adjustable between 41-56V. I'm planning on driving the strips at 10w and use 80 of them for 2m². Is that way overkill do you think? Using dwc and co2. The space is a false wall 2m wide, 2m tall. 0.5m deep but two levels so 1m height for growing. Im ok with underdriving the leds even more but dont want to find myself in the future wishing for more light
I don't exactly understand how your wiring. But if you rely on the strips for power transportation(the power being supplied through one strip to the next), that could be a problem since the traces of the pcbs are where your losses will be.
getogrow
Well-Known Member
Thats exactly whats going on here. Thanks bud! i been talkin to another member and yea, im a confusing person .....but in the end im using the traces to supply each board causing a bunch of resistance.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Bagarn! Have you grown much before? id seriously advice against so little height and actual volume, its like two cubic meter, smaller thana decent sized tent and youre wanting to put a thousand watts in there if i get you right. i also had ideas like that, i could imagine a grow space from litterally anything. that meter is going to mean about half a meter of actual plant space when you count pots, light takes up height and you need space between light and plants etc. you will also probably need some lolipopped space between the pot and the cannopy otherwise air movement will be limited, which means humidity and mold. it seems seriously overambitious. the only way i could see that work would be with one level and all the leds on whatever youll use as door, and then tall plants inside. but that means vegging really tall plants, before you flower, and im not sure how youd make a plant stretch like that with side light. They wont have an instinct to go up.
If your in everybody-is-a-snitch-land you will also need a space with some stealth, you need an inlet and extraction and generating negative pressure in your space. Generally that means you should have your outsized carbon filter inside your space pulling thru it. otherwise the tendency is for leaks between your ducting and the filter. allways use a filter with larger capacity than you extraction, the slower the air moves thru the filter the less smell you have. Sorry, you might know all of this, dont wanna seem rude, but if you set this up in a place where you need to hide it behind a false wall your likely to have people asking about smell, if you even get to flower. a thousand watt setup actually running well creates a lot of humidity, which needs to be extracted. and filters only really work up until a point in high humidity. And if your plants arent drinking all of that water but getting thousand watts of soft run efficient led they arent gonna be able to keep up: bleaching and the typical 'calmag' problems which is only really lack of transpiration.
as for your drivers; yep, that should work afaik but i dont know that driver. The way i run leds is close to nominal power: for these if would be around six watts per strip. it means they will last loger, give more light per watt and generate less heat, although heat is your friend with leds.
my best advice: all one space, top lit. if your half a meter sharp then you need to orient your strips length wise, not across. youll need an inlet and extraction. psasive inlet should be fine. Extraction: standard is on top but it can also be good to be able to extract from the bottom to keep up temps.you want about twentyseven twentyeight in flower. you will need to be able to control humidity, up and down, somewhat independtly from temps, or at least me ready to. sometimes you luck out and everything works. Read up a bit on vapour pressure deficit or you will fail with leds.
Airmovement: preferably underneath cannopy, with stems lolipopped. non negotiable: over the cannopy. it needs to be soft airmovement not leaves trashing in the wind.
getogrow
Well-Known Member
This was and is my biggest fear. I see waaaay too many old hid heads having problems witgh the switch. Im on the right track with my thinking but i have no clue about vpd. The biggest thing i see is that folks used to hid are getting much more light in "most" of their area vs super high ppfd right in the middle. That has to = more food but thats all i can come up with.
Are you using Coco? You should be fine as long as you don't try to run too much light with too little nutrients
getogrow
Well-Known Member
soil. been doing it for years.
im used to hps .....lots of it. so its a big change....
The Loafter
Well-Known Member
found more cheap drivers. https://www.arrow.com/en/products/lne-24v150wdaa/delta-electronics
I ordered a few of their drivers. Will have them hooked up tomorrow night for a test run
Scored some free unused aluminum shelving pieces from work today. Got 5 of these pieces. Each one is just under 5 feet and the middle channel is right around an inch, so 24mm strips fit perfectly inside. Just have to take the reflective piece and tape off.
They do have a light finish on them. Will that effect their ability to pull the heat off the strips?
Can't load any pictures at the moment, but I'll try to get some up.
They do have a light finish on them. Will that effect their ability to pull the heat off the strips?
Can't load any pictures at the moment, but I'll try to get some up.
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Grow Lights Australia
Well-Known Member
Hi getogrow, it seems you have worked out what's going on. In a parallel circuit as you've drawn the PCB trace does indeed carry the current and results in voltage losses due to the thin copper trace. There is not much you can do about this, as the first strip gets the correct 24V and then some of that voltage drops off as the first strip passes the current to the second strip and so on until the last strip in the series is getting maybe 22-23V which is visibly dimmer to the human eye. The longer the strips, the worse the voltage drop.
There is a way around this and that is to form a parallel circuit directly from the driver: ie, have one main DC cable to the strips, and then sub-cables split off from the main cable for each individal strip. This ensures the current goes through the shortest distance before it powers each strip, and also ensures every supply line is roughly the same length. In your diagram above it would look like one red line across the top of the strips, with short red lines branching off it to each strip. That is the best way to wire in parallel – it's just not a neat as wiring each strip together.
It is because of this voltage drop that we make our High Light boards with extra-thick copper trace on each board and a direct route from connector to connector. Unfortunately, most strips have a very thin trace with narrow areas around the bolt holes etc.
The reason voltage drop does not affect a series circuit is because each strip passes on the same current to each other in a line. The total voltage adds up, and as long as the constant current driver can adjust to meet this voltage, all the strips get the same current and light up the same.
In parallel, each strip gets a slightly lower voltage, and the LEDs can only draw a slightly lower current at that voltage.
The main disadvantage to wiring in series is you will have a very high voltage current running through your strips (240V compared to 24V in the above diagram). Also, constant current drivers are a little bit more limited compared to constant voltage drivers when it comes to powering circuits, so if you change your mind about how many strips you want in each circuit you may be limited by the total voltage output of the CC driver.