bEelzeBosS
Well-Known Member
Damn, my 4000 didn't come with that adjusting knob, I have to take the ballast off to adjust and it's a major pain in the ass. Should have waited.
The lead that comes with these new ones connects the first to the other boards .Giving you control from that one unit rather than messing with all 3,like a kid at Christmas with this light i will be honest i love em.The growth rate even daily is incredible.I always get fast growth during first 3 week of flower.But I was told they may stretch,I aint seen none of that so far.Im hoping that my faith in these lights continues right through to end of flower.I want nice dense buds,its the only thing that worries me about leds I have used mars for going on 2 year now and they was always had solid buds,but its always been with autos .I have done a couple pf feminised runs under them,but the heat from flower room, with hps lights in effected the end weight.So now temps are far lower ,i think its going to definitely effect the weight.Damn, my 4000 didn't come with that adjusting knob, I have to take the ballast off to adjust and it's a major pain in the ass. Should have waited.
What was the end bud like,also was the weight ok AuggieJust finished up my OKC with the sf1000 you won't be disappointed
Looks like its gonna be some tasty ass shit,I nearly filled the table in the first 9 day it will be definitely full by week 2 ,then gonna leave it see if they can grow some nice big colasSuper dense.. probably 75g dr flowered her way early to keep her small
It doesnt work that way. Yes you will get higher par readings in the middle of the canopy because of light overlap. Plugging each in individually would make no difference.Just noticed the RJ11 cables connecting them together. Another grower pointed out that if you were to test the PAR.. the center light would be more intense than the others. Try plugging each one separate. You can also give them a few inches of space between to spread out your coverage. 2-3 inches between each light. Plenty of light gets put off to the side to fill in.
may wanna ask @vitalsine. He pointed it out.It doesnt work that way. Yes you will get higher par readings in the middle of the canopy because of light overlap. Plugging each in individually would make no difference.
So, for example, if you have three lights and run the center light at 80%, and the left and right lights at 100%, it would give you more uniformity across the canopy. I am only using a lux meter on my phone, but my 5x5 canopy reads 60-65k on the outside edges and 65-70k towards the center. If I run all 3 at 100% then I am hitting over 90k in the center with a large drop off towards the edges, 65-70k. I'm no expert, by any means, but after some experimenting, I removed the RJ11 cables and adjusted each light until I got the readings I wanted. Take it how you want! I am going to be adding a 4th SF2000 after this run... I might sooner than later just to get a little more yield on this run, but with the scrog it's hard to get in there and work.may wanna ask @vitalsine. He pointed it out.
That makes sense. What Hydrokid incorrectly parroted does not. If you read my post it says exactly what you are saying.So, for example, if you have three lights and run the center light at 80%, and the left and right lights at 100%, it would give you more uniformity across the canopy. I am only using a lux meter on my phone, but my 5x5 canopy reads 60-65k on the outside edges and 65-70k towards the center. If I run all 3 at 100% then I am hitting over 90k in the center with a large drop off towards the edges, 65-70k. I'm no expert, by any means, but after some experimenting, I removed the RJ11 cables and adjusted each light until I got the readings I wanted. Take it how you want! I am going to be adding a 4th SF2000 after this run... I might sooner than later just to get a little more yield on this run, but with the scrog it's hard to get in there and work.
Not sure what drivers they use, but meanwells put out 100% power if the dimmer leads aren't connected to anything.I be honest with ya dudes those dimmer switches really come in useful,just not in my grow .I want them all on full for the 12 hours there on.I done a lot of research and reading on how to set the lights .I only really want bud from the two that are under the table,the others in there are just been sexed.I will be getting a 4th light for the extra plant that I have in there every so often.Like the exodus this grow.I really like the idea of that dimmer during veg stage.but other than that,I doubt I will use them.like I said in this room any how,the nodes are stacking now.Very tight together,that was one thing I was worried about .I'm chuffed with these i be honest ,i worked with another led company for a few year .I could not find much fault with those either ,just wanted to change things up.But instead of doing a tent ,I wanted to commit the flower room to at least one led grow .Then after that depending on the end weight either continue or go back to hps,or the 3 rd option is add more leds.the way they are set out gives me the best coverage of the table,I aint to bothered about light overlapping,lets face it the sf4000 and even sf2000 are set out in pretty much the same way.I did not get them,because i don't always scrog,but aint often i do more than 3 plants normally in cages if not scrog.so gives me option of putting a light over the top of each light no matter where they are in room.So would you advice not having the dimmer connected to each other if I aint gonna use them.I will take that lead of if it will effect the light each boards putting out.