Bridgelux EB Gen 3 High Output 4ft Strips

MidnightSun72

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
Hi I am new to LEDs but I’ve been reading a lot. Just bit the bullet and ordered 100 Strips of BXEB-L1120Z-35E8000-C-D3.

And 17 HLG 320H 36A drivers. The plan is to run 6 strips per driver at 1.4a and 38.4V so no heat sinks are required.

I will mount 12 strips to a 4x4 aluminum frame still haven’t settled on a design as I am still waiting on quotes for different aluminum sections to see what’s most economical.

These strips are 3500K colour temp. Around 53.4W each rate at 185lm/w Don’t know what the umol/s. Each fixture will be 640W and the two HLG320s will be maxed out. Am I missing anything here? Anything I am overlooking or should know? I am also exploring adding a wired or wireless 0-10V controller. Would love to use these with an actual grow room controller if possible.


I also want to add 660nm and 730nm red strips but don’t know of any good strip with a matching firm factor. Can anyone point me inThe right direction? Thanks.
 
MidnightSun72

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
Im pretty sure you will need heatsinks or atleast id advice for it.
Not sure though, havent read up on high output blux but +25w for a 2 foot section is more.than id do with no sinking.

Also keep your drivers close.to your lights, voltage is close to the limit.
Click to expand...
Fair point about keeping the driver close I hadn't thought of the line length dropping voltage out of range.

Based on the data sheet if I read it right it's 25 degrees C at 1.4a. Hence my thinking that no heatsink is required.

I am trying to get some 1x1 u channel as some heat sink but god damn sure adds to the price vs just having a frame that supports the strips every 1ft.

Strips and drivers should arrive today. So that's exciting.
 
ilovereggae

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
Im pretty sure you will need heatsinks or atleast id advice for it.
Not sure though, havent read up on high output blux but +25w for a 2 foot section is more.than id do with no sinking.

Also keep your drivers close.to your lights, voltage is close to the limit.
Click to expand...
just looking at the datasheet for these. the 2 and 4 footers are both 2800 max / 1400 nominal. i wonder what the PCB is made out of? if it can take that much current on a 2 footer, are they copper or aluminum or something?
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
ilovereggae said:
just looking at the datasheet for these. the 2 and 4 footers are both 2800 max / 1400 nominal. i wonder what the PCB is made out of? if it can take that much current on a 2 footer, are they copper or aluminum or something?
Click to expand...
No idea, my best guess is theyre fr4 like the rest of the ebs. I guess they are using double chips, maybe? This is cool, but not as good as 2 separate chips. I havent had a look at these, have you got a link for the DS?
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
MidnightSun72 said:
Fair point about keeping the driver close I hadn't thought of the line length dropping voltage out of range.

Based on the data sheet if I read it right it's 25 degrees C at 1.4a. Hence my thinking that no heatsink is required.

I am trying to get some 1x1 u channel as some heat sink but god damn sure adds to the price vs just having a frame that supports the strips every 1ft.

Strips and drivers should arrive today. So that's exciting.
Click to expand...
I havent got the DS but thats not a good assumption. It just means that the values are for 1.4A when pulse measured at 1.4A and at 25C nothing about how warm they actually get by running them. Think about it, what if ambient was 30C, how would you get 25C in the chip?
If you dig out the eb heat handling threads, their around somewhere, youll see that at 1.4 normal ebs get quite hot and defo heatsink needed. This is my best guess.
 
MidnightSun72

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
No idea, my best guess is theyre fr4 like the rest of the ebs. I guess they are using double chips, maybe? This is cool, but not as good as 2 separate chips. I havent had a look at these, have you got a link for the DS?
Click to expand...

Here's the data sheet. Didn't post originally because I don't know if I can post links yet. Lol.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
MidnightSun72

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
Strips and drivers made it here ok. Check out the pics. That's alooot if diodes side by side. Maybe they will need heatsinking at the nominal current.
 

Attachments

MidnightSun72

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member

Bluetooth Control Module and App | Bridgelux, Inc. LED Lighting

The Bridgelux Bluetooth control module provides wireless control of single channel or dual channel LED driver via its dual 0-10V control output. The module's two 0-10V outputs may be configured to connect to a dual 0-10V control input of a LED driver where one channel controls intensity dimming...
www.bridgelux.com www.bridgelux.com


I wonder if I can connect this bluetooth controller to the two meanwell drivers on each strip. They are meant to control the drivers for the vesta strip, 1 0-10v control is for the color temp and the other is for intensity. But I can't see why it couldnt just drive two drivers seperately? Plus that would streamline controlling each fixture. Thoughts?
 
ilovereggae

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
MidnightSun72 said:

Bluetooth Control Module and App | Bridgelux, Inc. LED Lighting

The Bridgelux Bluetooth control module provides wireless control of single channel or dual channel LED driver via its dual 0-10V control output. The module's two 0-10V outputs may be configured to connect to a dual 0-10V control input of a LED driver where one channel controls intensity dimming...
www.bridgelux.com www.bridgelux.com


I wonder if I can connect this bluetooth controller to the two meanwell drivers on each strip. They are meant to control the drivers for the vesta strip, 1 0-10v control is for the color temp and the other is for intensity. But I can't see why it couldnt just drive two drivers seperately? Plus that would streamline controlling each fixture. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
I have no idea if it will work, but I have been wanting one of those for a minute to control my Vestas. Im going to guess it won't, as I assumed those were meant to work with the Vesta drivers. Now that I look closer tho, maybe you are right?

@Rocket Soul had some other idea too using a cheaper Bluetooth module that perhaps would work instead.

If you just want to easily control the dimming of both drivers together, but dont need Bluetooth, you can use a single potentiometer for dimming both. I have to find the video but was just watching a GG build last night where he did that.
 
MidnightSun72

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
MidnightSun72 said:

Bluetooth Control Module and App | Bridgelux, Inc. LED Lighting

The Bridgelux Bluetooth control module provides wireless control of single channel or dual channel LED driver via its dual 0-10V control output. The module's two 0-10V outputs may be configured to connect to a dual 0-10V control input of a LED driver where one channel controls intensity dimming...
www.bridgelux.com www.bridgelux.com


I wonder if I can connect this bluetooth controller to the two meanwell drivers on each strip. They are meant to control the drivers for the vesta strip, 1 0-10v control is for the color temp and the other is for intensity. But I can't see why it couldnt just drive two drivers seperately? Plus that would streamline controlling each fixture. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

interesting info too
 
MidnightSun72

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
ilovereggae said:
I have no idea if it will work, but I have been wanting one of those for a minute to control my Vestas. Im going to guess it won't, as I assumed those were meant to work with the Vesta drivers. Now that I look closer tho, maybe you are right?

@Rocket Soul had some other idea too using a cheaper Bluetooth module that perhaps would work instead.

If you just want to easily control the dimming of both drivers together, but dont need Bluetooth, you can use a single potentiometer for dimming both. I have to find the video but was just watching a GG build last night where he did that.
Click to expand...
I actually really would like to use a normal grow room controller. Something like the nanolux NCCS system. It has good app support, wifi and can be controlled from computer or phone. It also uses 0-10v control, what I can't seem to figure out is if its as simple as wiring an RJ12 2 wires to the Dim - and Dim + leads on the meanwell drivers and just connect up to any 0-10v control souirce (like Nanolux, or Gavita EL1/2 controllers)

nanoluxtech.com

NCCS

Leader in Digital Ballasts. Nanolux is the only lighting brand in the industry that designs, engineers, manufactures, distributes, markets and sells its own brand.
nanoluxtech.com nanoluxtech.com
from this link:
"0-10V control Protocol
  • The new DTU has four RJ12 output ports which can control up to 60 ballasts per port.
  • It can be used with any brand of ballast using standard 0-10V protocol."
I guess the question is what is the standard protocol? and is Meanwell's standard 0-10v.

I want to centralize control of my lighting system as I am also controlling some CMH fixtures that will supplement my LEDs. So using a grow room controller would really help me out so that I can kill the CMH fixtures if temps get over a certain number, control Co2, dehumidifier, fans etc. Also it will let you log all those conditions which i'd use to correlate grow room conditions to the yields to titrate conditions to optimal yields.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
ilovereggae said:
I have no idea if it will work, but I have been wanting one of those for a minute to control my Vestas. Im going to guess it won't, as I assumed those were meant to work with the Vesta drivers. Now that I look closer tho, maybe you are right?

@Rocket Soul had some other idea too using a cheaper Bluetooth module that perhaps would work instead.

If you just want to easily control the dimming of both drivers together, but dont need Bluetooth, you can use a single potentiometer for dimming both. I have to find the video but was just watching a GG build last night where he did that.
Click to expand...
Ive been quoted illumi meshtek as a good option by those who know more than me.

As for vestas: if you connect all your strips together in parallel, warm white in one circuit, cold white in another, with easy access to each circuit you can actually get a fair bit of spectrum control with one driver only. Connect your driver to WW (flower) or CW (stretch inhibition) or you can connect your driver to both for nice full cycle spectrum around 3700K. If your a bit handy you can manage this with simple switches.
 
Barristan Whitebeard

Barristan Whitebeard

Well-Known Member
MidnightSun72 said:
I actually really would like to use a normal grow room controller. Something like the nanolux NCCS system. It has good app support, wifi and can be controlled from computer or phone. It also uses 0-10v control, what I can't seem to figure out is if its as simple as wiring an RJ12 2 wires to the Dim - and Dim + leads on the meanwell drivers and just connect up to any 0-10v control souirce (like Nanolux, or Gavita EL1/2 controllers)

nanoluxtech.com

NCCS

Leader in Digital Ballasts. Nanolux is the only lighting brand in the industry that designs, engineers, manufactures, distributes, markets and sells its own brand.
nanoluxtech.com nanoluxtech.com
from this link:
"0-10V control Protocol
  • The new DTU has four RJ12 output ports which can control up to 60 ballasts per port.
  • It can be used with any brand of ballast using standard 0-10V protocol."
I guess the question is what is the standard protocol? and is Meanwell's standard 0-10v.

I want to centralize control of my lighting system as I am also controlling some CMH fixtures that will supplement my LEDs. So using a grow room controller would really help me out so that I can kill the CMH fixtures if temps get over a certain number, control Co2, dehumidifier, fans etc. Also it will let you log all those conditions which i'd use to correlate grow room conditions to the yields to titrate conditions to optimal yields.
Click to expand...
The 320 watt HLG CV + CC drivers are 1-10Vdc. HLG 320 watt CC and all HLG 480 watt and 600 watt drivers are 0-10Vdc.

Screenshot_20201017-151115.png
 
MidnightSun72

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
LOL now I remember why I got the A driver. The others were not in stock....the 42B is in stock... But does the B only drive at a constant 42V with no adjustment?
36AB and 42AB 2021 ship dates....
if I use a single HLG-600H-42AB (Not even in stock but has a November arrival date (I could live with). This is more expensive per watt. Gonna explore more drivers before I just use the same 36As....
 
MidnightSun72

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
So I wanted to wire my lights in parallel to keep voltages down and in my mind its easier to think about the wiring (all positives, all negatives) That being said digikey has the HLG-320H-C1400B in stock and price is a little bit more, but I think I could negotiate it down. This driver since it's a B model has the 0-10V dimming and 10V PWM. It can drive the LEDs at 1.4a only, but that's ok if I can dim with 0-10v control. So it would work out the same still 2X this driver to drive 6 strips per driver. Gonna have 229V of DC power running through an aluminum frame....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top