DIY with Quantum Boards

2

2com

Well-Known Member
guitarguy10 said:
Which constant voltage driver? Have you read it's datasheet which should have like graphs and stuff lol, thats about all I can offer.
Click to expand...
Any one of them. Yea, I've looked at datasheet. I'm basically wondering what spec on the sheet is it that dictates this. I'm pretty sure it's the output current (it keeps getting divided when you add a new board), but surely there must be a minimum and you can just keep adding boards and having them get less and less and less current.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
pilto said:
This is how the "new" heatsinks for my "new" HLG XL 260w rspec KITS (yes BOTH OF THEM) arrived today. Both Quantum Board envelopes were resealed as well. I don't care if the RollItUp admin don't want me commenting, people deserve to be notified of how HLG treats their customers. THIS IS REDICULOUS.

THESE ARE BRAND NEW OUT OF THE BOX.

View attachment 4758111
Click to expand...
Non “ Rediculous “ issue .... minor blemishes.
Board will set over it and be forgotten. Less drama.

Unless heatsinks are skewed / warped then it would be a possible problem. I received a heatsink with a slight bent fin ... didn’t trip over it. It is fine.
 
TWest65

TWest65

Well-Known Member
2com said:
How does one figure out the number of boards a certain constant voltage driver can run is? There's a max current for a given led board/qb, and I see an "operational current" in the specs, but there's no minimum? Wouldn't it just be gradually dimmer?

(Originally posted in wrong thread, my bad @pilto)
These heatsinks they sell aren't an "HLG" product, they're produced elsewhere and shipped (from china, maybe? correct me if I'm wrong) over here. They have some sharp edges etc., and they'll rub together during shipping and stuff.

They'll almost always have some degree of small dings or scratches, sometimes worse than others. It really doesn't affect the performance, and it's only aesthetic - especially if it's where the board(s) will cover. And they'll almost always have cnc lines that some are deeper than others, or maybe a fin or row of fins/pins will be slightly askew (you can just fix/undo that pretty easy), for example.

They're very well priced, fairly readily available, pre-drilled, look dope (black) and HLG gets them in and provides them for us me, when it's very difficult to find anything else similar online (canada sucks).

I say this because I'm pretty particular and careful and my first encounter with a slightly imperfect slate single, I was going over the sinks obsessing over any imperfection and worrying. I was kinda treating it as though it was a computer cpu and heatsink situation.

It sucks they're not perfect, and I can't tell fully by the picture, but wipe them down with alcohol and see if there's any actual damage. I doubt it. It's not gonna affect anything.

If you're talking about the anti-static bags/envelopes, they occasionally re-use those, if I remember correctly. Which is probably why they're open.

How were you mistreated; did you contact them yet?
Click to expand...
I just hooked up 4 288s to a 240H-54B. Turned the pot all the way down. All 4 are lit and drawing 18.1 Watts or 4.5 Watts per board. Total light looks to be about the same as a 60 Watt incandescent bulb.
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
TWest65 said:
I just hooked up 4 288s to a 240H-54B. Turned the pot all the way down. All 4 are lit and drawing 18.1 Watts or 4.5 Watts per board. Total light looks to be about the same as a 60 Watt incandescent bulb.
Click to expand...
Thanks for replying even though I accidentally got that question stuck in a reply to someone else. Haha.

You did this to show that even with many boards on a low(er) powered CV driver, and the usable current (Io pot) turned down to minimum, that they'd all still light up? I'm not sure what you're trying to tell me, exactly, but I appreciate it :)

I'm kinda thinking you can just keep adding boards to a CV driver and it'll keep dividing the current, until you reach whatever the "minimum" require amperage a board needs and it won't light? But I duno.

The other difference is that I'm looking at qb648 and it has a "typical" operating current of 54.9V - HLG says "56V". The operating current of the board is 2200mA (but that doesn't mean 'min'. and the max is listed at 5500mA I think).
 
piney420

piney420

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone, I'm working on a light with six qb96's. I would like to push slightly under 500 watts through all six for my 4x4 tent. I was looking at two drivers, the HLG-480H-C1400 and the HLG-480H-C1750 (will definitely be wiring in series). After looking through this thread now I'm thinking the C1400 is the better choice. Am I on the right path? Thanks all!
 
shimbob

shimbob

Well-Known Member
piney420 said:
Hello everyone, I'm working on a light with six qb96's. I would like to push slightly under 500 watts through all six for my 4x4 tent. I was looking at two drivers, the HLG-480H-C1400 and the HLG-480H-C1750 (will definitely be wiring in series). After looking through this thread now I'm thinking the C1400 is the better choice. Am I on the right path? Thanks all!
Click to expand...
It's your only choice, the -C1740 doesn't produce the voltage required to light up 6 qb96 at 1.75A. 6*52.2V=313V but -C1750 maxes out at 274V
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
The Diablo would need a hell of a heatsink though, to run at 5000ma. With Slate2 heatsinks, 150 watts is max or about 2800ma.

I'm running mine at 100 watts per board. at that power, it's all the light a tent not running CO2 can use. Estimate Based on HLG's figures, I'm in the 1000 to 1150 PPF range. My plants are loving it!

this was taken 2 days ago. Yep, there's a shit load of plants in there lol!


Blue Dragons pic1 -12-5-2020.jpg


2com said:
Thanks for replying even though I accidentally got that question stuck in a reply to someone else. Haha.

You did this to show that even with many boards on a low(er) powered CV driver, and the usable current (Io pot) turned down to minimum, that they'd all still light up? I'm not sure what you're trying to tell me, exactly, but I appreciate it :)

I'm kinda thinking you can just keep adding boards to a CV driver and it'll keep dividing the current, until you reach whatever the "minimum" require amperage a board needs and it won't light? But I duno.

The other difference is that I'm looking at qb648 and it has a "typical" operating current of 54.9V - HLG says "56V". The operating current of the board is 2200mA (but that doesn't mean 'min'. and the max is listed at 5500mA I think).
Click to expand...
 
ilovereggae

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
does anyone know or remember what the voltage range on the QB288 v1 boards is? (specifically the lumileds version, not sure if those had different specs?)

the guide page isn't in their website menu anymore and I can't find it. Trying to remember if they operate at a higher voltage than the V2 boards.

I realize now that not having done some basic math before, using the recommended HLG-240H-C1050B on 4 boards in series, I've only been pulling 50W per board?!? I guess I'm happy bc my g/w numbers just went up, but I also feel so dumb for not realizing. If they are close the same V then at 46.7V/1050ma each board, I think I could fit a 5th board onto that driver? 47x5=235. It puts out 238V. Someone please confirm my math. I think im gonna be rebuilding my fixtures this weekend if I'm right.

I also have a bunch of these Delta 48V150WAAA drivers and I just realized they might work with the V1 boards. They are like MW A series drivers and I can adjust VO from 46-53V.

I was thinking of running 2 boards in parallel on these drivers. It looks like I will be fine on the V2 boards but wasn't sure if the V1s ran at a higher voltage?
 
Last edited:
TWest65

TWest65

Well-Known Member
ilovereggae said:
does anyone know or remember what the voltage range on the QB288 v1 boards is? (specifically the lumileds version, not sure if those had different specs?)

the guide page isn't in their website menu anymore and I can't find it. Trying to remember if they operate at a higher voltage than the V2 boards.

I realize now that not having done some basic math before, using the recommended HLG-240H-C1050B on 4 boards in series, I've only been pulling 50W per board?!? I guess I'm happy bc my g/w numbers just went up, but I also feel so dumb for not realizing. If they are close the same V then at 46.7V/1050ma each board, I think I could fit a 5th board onto that driver? 47x5=235. It puts out 238V. Someone please confirm my math. I think im gonna be rebuilding my fixtures this weekend if I'm right.

I also have a bunch of these Delta 48V150WAAA drivers and I just realized they might work with the V1 boards. They are like MW A series drivers and I can adjust VO from 46-53V.

I was thinking of running 2 boards in parallel on these drivers. It looks like I will be fine on the V2 boards but wasn't sure if the V1s ran at a higher voltage?
Click to expand...
At 1050 ma the voltage on the V1 is 48.96 volts vs 46.98 for the V2.
Got the numbers from here: https://ledgardener.com/hlg-qb288-v2/
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
pop22 said:
I like redundancy. I'd run a pair of 240H-54 with three on each. I've had a couple drivers die on me, I'd rather run 1/2 a light than none! My Diablo light runs on a pair of HLG240H-C2100b dimmed to 200 watts per pair.
Click to expand...
Is this statement true for your setup? "Following driver are Compatible but will require some dimming under continuous operation." The drivers you're using is in that list.

Horticulture Lighting Group Premium LED Grow Lights for Agriculture

Premiere high end indoor gardening LED grow lights for hobbyists & professionals looking to remove HPS & lower electricity costs by 60% while increasing yields.
hlgleds.com hlgleds.com

I have a few of the same driver around, I think.
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
I asked StephenJ and he said they were fine, because I too questioned that, didn't seem to make sense to me. But I'm running dimmed anyway, because seriously, running it harder would be a waste of electricity in a 4x4 tent without CO2.
2com said:
Is this statement true for your setup? "Following driver are Compatible but will require some dimming under continuous operation." The drivers you're using is in that list.

Horticulture Lighting Group Premium LED Grow Lights for Agriculture

Premiere high end indoor gardening LED grow lights for hobbyists & professionals looking to remove HPS & lower electricity costs by 60% while increasing yields.
hlgleds.com hlgleds.com

I have a few of the same driver around, I think.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top