Mars hydro leds not fully turning off

[dbz]

The wiring in my domicile is just fine. My Home is 6 years old and I've also tried plugging this light I'm having issues with into my father's house and still the same problem.

If plugged directly into the wall with no timer and it doesn't turn off, then it is certainly a fault with the product. If a timer on a non polarized outlet it probably just needs to be flipped. If a timer on a polarized outlet then the wiring is likely reversed. Technically there isnt polarity in AC, however, most timers are single pole. That is why this is a common issue esp in the US with reversing neutral and hot. Of course in such an instance the switch on the driver would be on. Though it is switched off on return capacitive inductance can allow such leaks.
If you have this problem when it is plugged in directly without a timer inline then likely the switch on the driver has a similar issue in which it is only successfully turning off one side, or the mechanical contacts in the switch itself are faulty. Only way to fix that is request a replacement light or use a double pole timer or switch in front of the device.

 

[Wizzlebiz]

Plugging it in directly to the wall outlet does the same thing, no change.

That's because there is constant power to the outlet. Try a mechanical timer. It cuts power completely. No digital switch to have to stay on for.

 

[78rodman]

1st it was connected to a mechanical timmer, that's when noticed the light emitting a dem light. So I figured it had something to do with the timer itself. I say that because of past problems with cheap timers causing a voltage leak. To cut the timer out of the equation, I plugged the light directly into the wall outlet. 2nd saying that its because there is constant power isn't a thing. Reason being is, One that it has a power on/off switch. When switched off, the circuit it opened and the current is cut. Second, if it was still connected to the timer, the "constant power " effect would still be there regardless. The "cut power" is the weak point where failure is most possible. That is why I plugged it directly into the wall outlet. After a lot of reading and watching videos. My conclusion, I believe, is that MY actual weak point or failure is the dimming switch on the light it self. It is allowing a small bit of voltage trickle from the ballast. I believe that's correct in thinking, but not actually sure.

 

[Lockedin]

1st it was connected to a mechanical timmer, that's when noticed the light emitting a dem light. So I figured it had something to do with the timer itself. I say that because of past problems with cheap timers causing a voltage leak. To cut the timer out of the equation, I plugged the light directly into the wall outlet. 2nd saying that its because there is constant power isn't a thing. Reason being is, One that it has a power on/off switch. When switched off, the circuit it opened and the current is cut. Second, if it was still connected to the timer, the "constant power " effect would still be there regardless. The "cut power" is the weak point where failure is most possible. That is why I plugged it directly into the wall outlet. After a lot of reading and watching videos. My conclusion, I believe, is that MY actual weak point or failure is the dimming switch on the light it self. It is allowing a small bit of voltage trickle from the ballast. I believe that's correct in thinking, but not actually sure.

How long did you observe this for?
re: some diodes can glow for a few minutes after shutdown.
Next shut down - power down as normal and observe.
Next Unplug the unit from the wall and observe.
- possibly some residual power stored up in the power supply.

Again, that's my casual electrician trouble shooting - there's some legit juicers on this forum that would know more.

 

[PanamaRed63]

Like said above, It's the Driver... Logically it's the only place(Driver)is the weak link.

 

[PJ Diaz]

That's because there is constant power to the outlet. Try a mechanical timer. It cuts power completely. No digital switch to have to stay on for.

That’s not true. How do you think the mechanical timer moves it’s clock during the off hours?

 

[PJ Diaz]

1st it was connected to a mechanical timmer, that's when noticed the light emitting a dem light. So I figured it had something to do with the timer itself. I say that because of past problems with cheap timers causing a voltage leak. To cut the timer out of the equation, I plugged the light directly into the wall outlet. 2nd saying that its because there is constant power isn't a thing. Reason being is, One that it has a power on/off switch. When switched off, the circuit it opened and the current is cut. Second, if it was still connected to the timer, the "constant power " effect would still be there regardless. The "cut power" is the weak point where failure is most possible. That is why I plugged it directly into the wall outlet. After a lot of reading and watching videos. My conclusion, I believe, is that MY actual weak point or failure is the dimming switch on the light it self. It is allowing a small bit of voltage trickle from the ballast. I believe that's correct in thinking, but not actually sure.

Have you even tested your wall outlet before arriving at such presumption?

 

[78rodman]

Actually yes, other rooms, even went to my father's house and plugged it in. The LEDs still dimly lit up. I don't have a meter or any way of testing, so I di not know any numbers or whatever.

I posted my reply to the original thread, because I am/was having the same problem. After posting, I took another look at the ballast and noticed a 2nd switch that I didn't notice when I first installed the light (because I don't read directions lol). The 2nd switch turns on/off the dimming function, either allowing you to turn it on and allow dimming or off for 100% power. When the dimming switch is off, my problem goes away. When I have it on, my problem comes back.

 

[Wizzlebiz]

That’s not true. How do you think the mechanical timer moves it’s clock during the off hours?

That's valid. Didn't think about that.

Heres what I know. People have fixed this issue with a mechanical timer. Digital timers were a no go.

 

[PJ Diaz]

That's valid. Didn't think about that.

Heres what I know. People have fixed this issue with a mechanical timer. Digital timers were a no go.

Can LED bulbs be used with a timer? Timer Switch for LED,energy saving CFLs & - mydome Home Security

Why do Timer switches not work with CFL.s or LEDs, How to stop lights flashing with a timer switch, A timer for your LED bulbs.

mydome.co.uk

 

[GBAUTO]

Can LED bulbs be used with a timer? Timer Switch for LED,energy saving CFLs & - mydome Home Security

Why do Timer switches not work with CFL.s or LEDs, How to stop lights flashing with a timer switch, A timer for your LED bulbs.

mydome.co.uk

The idea that the load needs to be connected for the timer clock to work is bs.

 

[PJ Diaz]

The idea that the load needs to be connected for the timer clock to work is bs.

That is a good point.

 

[Wizzlebiz]

Can LED bulbs be used with a timer? Timer Switch for LED,energy saving CFLs & - mydome Home Security

Why do Timer switches not work with CFL.s or LEDs, How to stop lights flashing with a timer switch, A timer for your LED bulbs.

mydome.co.uk

Were not talking about all leds.we are talking about a known issue with Mars hydro and a known work around

 

[High T.]

Hi everyone! Had the same problem. The problem was solved when i removed the dimmer and power supplies from the lamp body. Good luck!

 

[Dank Bongula]

Hi everyone! Had the same problem. The problem was solved when i removed the dimmer and power supplies from the lamp body. Good luck!

My ts1000 seemed to work correctly once I hooked it up to a mechanical timer like others have suggested.

When I figured out mine was staying dimmly lit during install/testing, I immediately ordered an sf1000 and was going to send back the ts1000.

Plugging the sf1000 into the same outlet/ext cord as the ts1000, there was no repeatability of issue with the sf1000...but by this time I had figured out that the ts1000 works just fine when controlled by the timer so I just kept both lights for that tent.

 

[Blaze187]

Mine stay dim on the TSW2000 plugged into a timer... Hasn't bothered my plants much touch wood!

 

[Psyphish]

This has been a problem with LED lights since the beginning. My first Lighthouse Hydro LED panel 10 years ago had this problem and I fixed it by rotating the plug that goes into the wall 180 degrees. Literally just flip the plug. Every now and then someone starts a new topic about the issue and everyone is all surprised and thinks it's some new problem, it's not.

Then again I'm not sure how US power plugs work, we have two prong plugs in Finland.

 

[Jeffislovinlife]

This has been a problem with LED lights since the beginning. My first Lighthouse Hydro LED panel 10 years ago had this problem and I fixed it by rotating the plug that goes into the wall 180 degrees. Literally just flip the plug. Every now and then someone starts a new topic about the issue and everyone is all surprised and thinks it's some new problem, it's not.

Then again I'm not sure how US power plugs work, we have two prong plugs in Finland.

That makes no sense to me I'm in the USA we have 3 holes plugs power- return- ground so you have the two pegs so a power and a return yuppers I'm not understanding how rotating the wall plug a hundred and eighty degrees will do for you

 

[Mak'er Grow]

That makes no sense to me I'm in the USA we have 3 holes plugs power- return- ground so you have the two pegs so a power and a return yuppers I'm not understanding how rotating the wall plug a hundred and eighty degrees will do for you

The basics behind it has to do with the hot and neutral in the wall outlet...they may be reversed so the timer is only shutting off the neutral line, but leaving hot and ground...add in the driver 'leaking' power through the still latched side (hot line) and you may get the 'glow' from the little power still going through the driver.
So by reversing the wires in the plug or flipping the timer puts the internal timer contacts/switch on the hot line and then the lights/LEDs shouldn't 'glow'.
Hope that helps and can be understood...I tend to ramble at times...lol

 

[GBAUTO]

That makes no sense to me I'm in the USA we have 3 holes plugs power- return- ground so you have the two pegs so a power and a return yuppers I'm not understanding how rotating the wall plug a hundred and eighty degrees will do for you

The standard 3-terminal120V outlets are usually polarized. That means the longer vertical terminal is supposed to be connected to the neutral wire and has a silver screw. The line circuit(120v) is attached to the short vertical terminal with the copper-colored screw.
The neutral wire and the ground wire are actually connected internally on a buss bar-they are always at zero voltage to the ground.
If you reverse the line and neutral connections on your outlet, even when your timer cuts the power side of the circuit(which in your case is neutral because the polarity has been reversed) while the 120v line remains energized. This can cause weird back-feed through the electronics and create those dim lights. Fix your wiring and it'll go away.