DIY with Quantum Boards

Moabfighter

Well-Known Member
You made a great choice. Let people laugh, they don't matter. I had the same sticker shock myself but in the end the light is amazing. Could you light things cheaper, of course. Than again I am at the age and stage I can afford to spend too much once in a while and others concerns about how much money I fork out are irrelevant. Just grow some dank nugs and know your quality product will be with you for years to come. Congratulations.
Thanks brother got any photos of your harvest? I can’t find you based on clicking on your profile name.
 

Doug Dawson

Well-Known Member
Thanks brother got any photos of your harvest? I can’t find you based on clicking on your profile name.
Yeah, I had a thread going with regards to the light but it got closed after some folks made it into a fighting with each other thread, lol. I didn't actually weigh the harvest except the smallest plant. Got 9 or 10 jars out of the 2 bigger plants. Half a dozen each out of the other 2. Was pretty decent for my first run under LED.
 

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pop22

Well-Known Member
This is HLG's only competition......... until you see the price! You got a big bargin!

https://shop.fluence.science/store/spydr-series/spydr-2i/

I fucking ordered it. My ole lady is gonna kill me.

thanks joe. man I’ve never spent this much on anything at once before that I can think of. Laugh at me if you wanna it’s all good. Didn’t even consider taxes. That made it $765 but it’s all good. Man. Awesome. Cant wait
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
Not enough voltage with that driver. The QB 324 uses about 106 volts if I remember correctly

I'm running a pair of them on a 240H-C1050B. They are running at about 130 each, near their 150 watt max.

Hey guys i got 2 qb324 v1.... the problem is I’m trying to run both boards on a hlg 120 c1400 driver.. the driver works when one board is wire up but not both boards.. Maybe i need a different driver? I’m wiring in series by the way.
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
Meanwell does not reccomend running drivers in parallel and it voids the warranty.
hmm not sure about that as a general statement, but i could see what u mean specifically regarding running Constant Current (C series) drivers in parallel which is what was suggested above.

I also figured the same is true for a CV driver? probably should only use them for parallel and not series, even if the modules added up are within range.

in either case u could also then do a Seies > Parallel string for CC or the reverse for CV.

the suggestion of 2 boards in parallel off a 320 A series driver (which is CV) seems correct to me tho.
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
Use a 320H-C1400 if you plan to run them at max on stock heatsinks. I'm not one to run them that hard, I see no need and on the 240H-C1050 I'm getting 280 watts from the wall, about 130 watts per board, run in papallel. My 4 board QB 304 ( also a 100+ V board ) I've never run above 85 watts per board and I've grown some damn fine bud under it! The last one was this girl, then i replaced it with the Diablo boards.


Pineapple Poison pic2 -11-7-2020.jpg

hmm not sure about that as a general statement, but i could see what u mean specifically regarding running Constant Current (C series) drivers in parallel which is what was suggested above.

I also figured the same is true for a CV driver? probably should only use them for parallel and not series, even if the modules added up are within range.

in either case u could also then do a Seies > Parallel string for CC or the reverse for CV.

the suggestion of 2 boards in parallel off a 320 A series driver (which is CV) seems correct to me tho.
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
Use a 320H-C1400 if you plan to run them at max on stock heatsinks. I'm not one to run them that hard, I see no need and on the 240H-C1050 I'm getting 280 watts from the wall, about 130 watts per board, run in papallel. My 4 board QB 304 ( also a 100+ V board ) I've never run above 85 watts per board and I've grown some damn fine bud under it! The last one was this girl, then i replaced it with the Diablo boards.


View attachment 4860635
maybe it's too early, or the fact that I've run out of coffee. but I dont get the math on this. I agree with running boards soft.. but on a 240-C1050 driver if you attach the boards in parallel... won't they each get their 100+V but then split the available current? I don't see how you could pull more than @ 100W that way?

I ran 4 QB 304 in parallel on one 320H-C2800B driver for over 3 years.
this one kind of makes more sense bc each board will get 700ma... Seems like it would be closer to 70W per board or 280W total...

but either way I'm pretty sure CC drivers are meant to be used for series arrays.

can u do a sketch or show a photo of your wiring so I can understand how you are doing this?

this is what I found on MW website about it:

"Connecting multiple LEDs to a constant current LED driver in parallel is not recommended.

Constant current LED drivers are used to power LEDs that have no internal current regulation. When you connect multiple LEDs to a constant current LED driver in parallel, you run the risk of reducing the life span of your LED’s...."
 
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cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
meanwell basically dont recommend connecting leds in parallel.
while even on the boards themself there are always some leds in parallel and as you know, matching is good enough.

there isnt really a driver from meanwell for leds i am aware of which doesnt offer a constant current region, is a CV driver only.

even the widely used HLG 240 48A is f.e. a CC and CV.
there is technically no difference in what the drivers are doing as long youre in the CC region.
CONSTANT CURRENT REGION Note.4
24-48V

※ This series is able to work in either Constant Current mode (a direct drive way) or Constant Voltage mode (usually through additional DC/DC driver) to drive the LEDs.

if youre above 48V youre in CV mode, as the led matching is fine you dont need a extra DC/DC or preresistors to have a good enough distributed current.
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
meanwell basically dont recommend connecting leds in parallel.
while even on the boards themself there are always some leds in parallel and as you know, matching is good enough.

there isnt really a driver from meanwell for leds i am aware of which doesnt offer a constant current region, is a CV driver only.

even the widely used HLG 240 48A is f.e. a CC and CV.
there is technically no difference in what the drivers are doing as long youre in the CC region.
CONSTANT CURRENT REGION Note.4
24-48V

※ This series is able to work in either Constant Current mode (a direct drive way) or Constant Voltage mode (usually through additional DC/DC driver) to drive the LEDs.

if youre above 48V youre in CV mode, as the led matching is fine you dont need a extra DC/DC or preresistors to have a good enough distributed current.
That makes sense to me for the regular drivers that are CC/CV. But aren't the "C" version specifically constant current?

In Pops example using a 240-C1050 I don't understand how if only using 100ish volts how it will output more current than it is rated for? Won't parallel array split the 1050ma current?

I admit I had some of this wrong when I built my fixtures. I run 4 QB 288 boards in series on a 240-C1050b. I realized after a year that if I only give my boards 1050ma they will only pull @ 48V each so I'm only getting about 50W per board not 60W like I had originally planned for. Since my driver has 238V available, I've got about 40+V left over that I am not using. So while my driver can pull 240W from the wall, I'm only actually using 200W with my fixtures. At least that is my current understanding.

Totally could be wrong with all of this so please correct me if so. I definitely am still learning.
 
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cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
as far i followed youre absolute right.
the 1050mA will split to everything in parallel, as you wrote.
the driver wont go over its specifications, or not by that much.
there is probably just something lost in translation.
youre spot on with your 2040-1050c also as far i see.

only wanted to say rules apply to every meanwell driver, there will be many boards in parallel out there running in the CC region of their 54 or 48V CC/CV drivers.
there are CC only drivers also, true.
 

Scwirl1611

Active Member
They are old tech that will not live up to the hype, you probably made that par chart up to sell more products, so sad what the LED world is all lies and deceptive practices. Bet the next thing is that is a 1000w hps replacement.Ha! I got taken just like that. This man told me that two(2) agromax 65 w/4000k is equivalent to a 1000 watt has??? Not at all the case. I’ve used this light for nothing more than a side light and for my babies that’s it. Now I hear you guys so I’m going to ask this? I have this one, a bestva 1000 watt and a Mars hydro. I’m most impressed with the Mars one my question is about the bestva had anyone used or heard any legit reviews(someone not trying to sell me one).
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
as far i followed youre absolute right.
the 1050mA will split to everything in parallel, as you wrote.
the driver wont go over its specifications, or not by that much.
there is probably just something lost in translation.
youre spot on with your 2040-1050c also as far i see.

only wanted to say rules apply to every meanwell driver, there will be many boards in parallel out there running in the CC region of their 54 or 48V CC/CV drivers.
there are CC only drivers also, true.
cool thanks. I feel confident on series builds, however parallel always makes me stop and recalculate.

for example when using series/CC its easy to design a soft running fixture simply by giving the strips less current than they are rated for.

in parallel/CV I misunderstood and was assuming that if I gave say a 48V CV, then the modules would just split whatever available current there is. However while this is true, if you give a strip or board 48V and it uses say 1A of current at that voltage, and it only has 500ma available to it, it is still going to try to pull 1A from the driver. This can cause the driver to overheat and shut off / fail. So in order to make a parallel build work that way you need to figure out the voltage the module will use at your desired current draw. The datasheets aren't written that way which makes it a lot harder to figure out *with strips at least.
 

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
"uses say 1A of current at that voltage, and it only has 500ma available to it, it is still going to try to pull 1A from the driver.This can cause the driver to overheat and shut off / fail. "
i think there is some unecessary complication.
you will always have the limit of the driver itself limiting the max current.
in the case of the 240-48A its 5A.
every led needs a limit otherwise it will try to pull inifinty current till it blows up.
in above case if voltage screw is set to max it will be a good 5A still as limit (the 240W ones have quite some headroom), dont think it will shut of.
to increase the lifetime meanwell recommend using about 80% of the rated power, but thats another story.
 
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