Boomer22
Active Member
im assuming you are meaning each bar in the fixture but I’m still not sure how to know one way or the other.How are the bars connected, series or parallel?
im assuming you are meaning each bar in the fixture but I’m still not sure how to know one way or the other.How are the bars connected, series or parallel?
I hope not, I tried a second one and it did the exact same thingAs for the series vs parallel wiring, this seems to be a pre-assembled kit, you can't change the wiring.
>it worked great on 110v.
If it works correctly on 110v but not on 220/240v then the driver's defective.
Try measuring across both legs, that's what powers the driver.First off... thank you all so much for the responses, I realize I am probably asking stupid questions but I will get eventually get it lol.
Any numbers from previous posts concerning output voltage are wrong. I am having a hard time coming up with a way to measure that accurately. So the only thing I know for sure is that each leg of the input reads 123v
Maybe I should have done that, I thought that adding the the two legs together gave you the +/- 240vTry measuring across both legs, that's what powers the driver.
Correct, but it's interesting it worked on 120v.Maybe I should have done that, I thought that adding the the two legs together gave you the +/- 240v
Yeah they were on but it doesn’t matter... the dc testing I did was wrong. I will figure out a better way to test the output dc but I don’t want to cut a cord to access the individual conductedCorrect, but it's interesting it worked on 120v.
It acts like the dc voltage is getting to high for some reason and the driver goes into hickup mode. Were the bars connected and on when you measured the dc voltages?
The "inventronics eud-600s12adt" is a "programable" driver. since you've altered the input you might have to do some sort of adjustment (output current maybe).yep and it worked great on 110v. The problem has to be something I just don’t understand about electrical/led drivers
So I was super excited tonight because I split the output cable so that I could separate the positive and negative conductors and get a reading with my clamp meter... I took it out to the shop and plugged it in... low and behold no such reading. I couldn’t get the meter to pick anything up. Back to the drawing boardIt might also be that 50% output is the max amps out for that driver at the voltage of the bars. Iirc correct this is a constant power driver and they work a bit different. Measure the dc output (V and A) of the driver at 50%: I suspect you'll have 600w output if you multiply V with A.
just trying to make the lights as efficient as possible. You make a good point with your previous post about reprogrammingP.S. - why did you change from 110vac to 220vac?
Hello Boomer!just trying to make the lights as efficient as possible. You make a good point with your previous post about reprogramming
100% a wiring issue willing to betHello Boomer!
I know this is a old post.. What was the fix to the solution?