Boomer22
Active Member
im assuming you are meaning each bar in the fixture but I’m still not sure how to know one way or the other.
MY LIGHT IS BLINKING WHEN I TURN IT UP
- Thread starter Boomer22
- Start date
Boomer22
Active Member
First off... thank you all so much for the responses, I realize I am probably asking stupid questions but I will get eventually get it lol
Any numbers from previous posts concerning output voltage are wrong. I am having a hard time coming up with a way to measure that accurately. So the only thing I know for sure is that each leg of the input reads 123v
Any numbers from previous posts concerning output voltage are wrong. I am having a hard time coming up with a way to measure that accurately. So the only thing I know for sure is that each leg of the input reads 123v
Boomer22
Active Member
I hope not, I tried a second one and it did the exact same thing
Try measuring across both legs, that's what powers the driver.
Boomer22
Active Member
Maybe I should have done that, I thought that adding the the two legs together gave you the +/- 240v
Correct, but it's interesting it worked on 120v.
It acts like the dc voltage is getting to high for some reason and the driver goes into hickup mode. Were the bars connected and on when you measured the dc voltages?
Boomer22
Active Member
Yeah they were on but it doesn’t matter... the dc testing I did was wrong. I will figure out a better way to test the output dc but I don’t want to cut a cord to access the individual conducted
Boomer22
Active Member
Update: Meijiu seems to think it is a problem with the dimmer, but I don’t think that’s the case. I tested input at the driver and it is 246v. When I plugged into a 123v outlet this morning, no blinking and worked just fine. I still haven’t measured DC output yet because I don’t really want to cut a cord
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Hugo Phurst
Well-Known Member
The "inventronics eud-600s12adt" is a "programable" driver. since you've altered the input you might have to do some sort of adjustment (output current maybe).
Just me, but I'd go back to 110vac, also you might want to make sure that you don't overdrive the led chips when you do get it working at 220vac.
Hugo Phurst
Well-Known Member
P.S. - why did you change from 110vac to 220vac?
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that you have no neutral. I'm not certain, but I believe that most drivers are designed to be hooked up with a neutral, a live, and a ground connection. In Eu you can get 230v AC that way, but in the US the 2 legs of hot are more common, which is what the OP has done. You may want to ask Inventronics about that.
Boomer22
Active Member
So I was super excited tonight because I split the output cable so that I could separate the positive and negative conductors and get a reading with my clamp meter... I took it out to the shop and plugged it in... low and behold no such reading. I couldn’t get the meter to pick anything up. Back to the drawing board
Boomer22
Active Member
just trying to make the lights as efficient as possible. You make a good point with your previous post about reprogramming
Summitmate
New Member
Hello Boomer!
I know this is a old post.. What was the fix to the solution?
Popop
Well-Known Member
100% a wiring issue willing to bet
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
If the light is flickering intermittently then its likely to be wiring. If its just plain blinking, not on low but yes on high then its likely a voltage problem: when the driver can't reach the required voltage of the lights circuitry then it goes into hickup mode: it tried to power, cant reach voltage and turn off, then back to try again qnd so on.
Go go n chill
Well-Known Member
I had several fixtures do this. It was faulty dimmers.
Go go n chill
Well-Known Member
3 pages of instruction from members and nobody suggested bypassing the dimmer to see what would happen.