Strange growth, weird smell

[LJ00]

It's a sign of that the clock is ticking inside the plant. When you give it long vegetation time with 18/6... the circadian clock inside the plant tells it: "It's time for autumn"... so it drifts slowly into flowering. It is more like a 40 year old facing the wall. A sexual mature female cannabis plant is on it's height is mid to late-flowering with masses of flowers to collect pollen for masses of seeds.

You don't need to wait in vegetation for this signs of flowering to show up at the internodes. It they show up, it means you are LATE switching the light.... the plant is already further with it's state, you missed the perfect moment for introducing the flower i my opinion. I switch the light before that happens... and i count the time of "into flowering" after these first signs show up, the first signs of flowering.

In fact you want to avoid this with your mothers for example, veging them on 20/4.... so that any cuttings NOT have signs of pre-flowering, as this might have negative influence on potency after propagation when you finally introduce the flowering with them.

I had planned on breeding them in that tent with some Hawaiian genetics I had coming, they were just bag seeds so they’re not in my main tent.

And 18/6 simulates the summer cycle out here, would 20/4 keep them at an early stage and stop preflowers?. I thought preflowers meant just sexual maturity not you have to flip now. I’ve seen 18ft tall plants that sat on 18/6 for over a year and they were more then happy

 

[LJ00]

i don't see N tox at all, that dark color isn't the color of N tox, and that twisting definitely is not "claw"
.unless the smell is specifically coming from the pots and not the plants, i don't think it implies root rot at all.
it is quite possible his soil is too hot for that strain, but he said he's using it for other plants, and they aren't having any problems.
the bloom nutes may be to balance what else is in his soil, i would like to see numbers for everything he added

Worm castings
Tomato fert 3-2-2
Power bloom 2-8-4
All purpose fert 4-4-4 (v small amount too much itll burn in flower)
Kelp meal (1-0-3)
Soil booster plus (organic)
Perlite
Cedar chips
Local dirt from near kootney

not a high ratio of amendments in the soil either, I normally have way too much sitting around by flush time

 

[CheGueVapo]

I had planned on breeding them in that tent with some Hawaiian genetics I had coming, they were just bag seeds so they’re not in my main tent.

And 18/6 simulates the summer cycle out here, would 20/4 keep them at an early stage and stop preflowers?. I thought preflowers meant just sexual maturity not you have to flip now. I’ve seen 18ft tall plants that sat on 18/6 for over a year and they were more then happy

I think you have just the wrong idea of sexual majurity of plants.
The sexual organ of the plant actually is the flower, the more flower it grew before it got pollenised, the more mature it is. (yap, we're smoking pussies btw, just sayin')
When you not have any preflowers and switch the lights, you give the plants the signal to invest all their energy into getting more mature (to try to reproduce).

The way it works is that the plant produces sugar with the light, but it growth with those consuming them in the night time. The length of the night-time... that is what the plants decided what to spend the sugars on!

Weed has no puberty! The only thing you need to consider is that it needs to vegetate through your entire grow space indoors, so it catch catch light and when that is finished: You switch the light... or you just waste TIME, ENERGY, HEIGHT and need to do a lot of defoliation.

The only reason why you wait for preflowers to show up, is when you must select out males from regular seeds, as this uncovers their sex/gender before the risk of pollenisation.

The plant has a inner day-clock to detect the season-time, the circadian clock.
This clock is evolutionary programmed from the season influences to drive the reproduction.

The more overall total time in darkness it spend, the more faster this ticking clock introduces flowering, and vice versa.
Thats why you should grow your motherplants at 20/4. This is short darkness enough to produce cuttings that have no circadian stress to introduce flowering, yet.

It influences what kind of plantparts growth your plants focuses in.....
12/12 obviously goes into focusing flowers.
20/4 is great for mothers, propagation, cuttlings, seedling and for repotting, goes into plant focus roots.

But it's not "only" that. The quality of the light (blue/red-amount or colortemp whitelight) also plays in.

It is just about signalling the right quality of light (spectrum, duration, intensity)..... you do't wait for the plant to tell you when it's ready to switch the light, you make sure it has grown enough roots and can catch enough light in your growing space, and then you start giving the signal It always works

And 18/6 simulates the summer cycle out here

That mightbe correct, but there's places on earth where in summer solstice the daily sun-hours higher than 19 hours.... for example anchorage.

What you not want is 24/0, because as I said above, the plant consumes up the produced sugars in the night to proceed with the actual growing. It converts the harvested energy from the light into growth at nights.... so 24/0 is a bad idea.

 

[LJ00]

I think you have just the wrong idea of sexual majurity of plants.
The sexual organ of the plant actually is the flower, the more flower it grew before it got pollenised, the more mature it is. (yap, we're smoking pussies btw, just sayin')
When you not have any preflowers and switch the lights, you give the plants the signal to invest all their energy into getting more mature (to try to reproduce).

The way it works is that the plant produces sugar with the light, but it growth with those consuming them in the night time. The length of the night-time... that is what the plants decided what to spend the sugars on!

Weed has no puberty! The only thing you need to consider is that it needs to vegetate through your entire grow space indoors, so it catch catch light and when that is finished: You switch the light... or you just waste TIME, ENERGY, HEIGHT and need to do a lot of defoliation.

The only reason why you wait for preflowers to show up, is when you must select out males from regular seeds, as this uncovers their sex/gender before the risk of pollenisation.

The plant has a inner day-clock to detect the season-time, the circadian clock.
This clock is evolutionary programmed from the season influences to drive the reproduction.

The more overall total time in darkness it spend, the more faster this ticking clock introduces flowering, and vice versa.
Thats why you should grow your motherplants at 20/4. This is short darkness enough to produce cuttings that have no circadian stress to introduce flowering, yet.

It influences what kind of plantparts growth your plants focuses in.....
12/12 obviously goes into focusing flowers.
20/4 is great for mothers, propagation, cuttlings, seedling and for repotting, goes into plant focus roots.

But it's not "only" that. The quality of the light (blue/red-amount or colortemp whitelight) also plays in.

It is just about signalling the right quality of light (spectrum, duration, intensity)..... you do't wait for the plant to tell you when it's ready to switch the light, you make sure it has grown enough roots and can catch enough light in your growing space, and then you start giving the signal It always works



That mightbe correct, but there's places on earth where in summer solstice the daily sun-hours higher than 19 hours.... for example anchorage.

What you not want is 24/0, because as I said above, the plant consumes up the produced sugars in the night to proceed with the actual growing. It converts the harvested energy from the light into growth at nights.... so 24/0 is a bad idea.

I’ve had preflowers at week 6 in 20/4 I wasn’t sure what it was until I did some research. I’ve had preflowers show all over plants and then you know they’re healthy enough for flower, I’m not sure light cycle weighs into a plants preflowers. I’ve heard everyone say that Preflowers just show up when the plant is resd

What's actually wrong with your plants is most likely a nutrient lockout and they could die if you don't fix it. It looks like you have nitrogen toxicity which would imply they're either being fed way too much fertilizer, or your ph is off. The ph can be off for a number of reasons. The smell you're describing hints at root rot and/or other issues going on in the rhizoshpere/microbiome. Also, why are you using a bloom fertilizer during veg?

If those were mine, I would immediately turn the lights down, flush those plants hard, test the runoff ppm/ph and let the soil dry out. From there, depending on the runoff, I'd start to adjust the soil back to where it should be. My concern is you said you used "good dirt" in the mix. Do you have any idea what the NPK breakdown of that soil is? It may be worth getting a cheap soil tester on amazon to see what nutrients are naturally present in the soil so that you can complement the NPK instead of possibly overloading one macro while neglecting another.

But yeah dude, there is nothing healthy about your plants right now. You need to take some action. Good luck brother, hope they rebound. Much love.

I use a base soil through the middle and was planning on flowering it a while ago so it would have ate into the flower food at the right time, did not time it well hahahaha I should’ve left it for a transplant

 

[CheGueVapo]

they’re healthy enough for flower

They're healthy enough for flower without preflower, absolutely THE SAME.
The assumption that signs of preflowering have anything to do with maturity or health state, or that you need to wait for them, and do not wait for them has ANY NEGATIVE EFFECT simply is the wrong conclusion. You waste time and energy with that... realise it, or don't. I don't care your falsebelieves!

What reasearch you did? Please show me the sources of your information that makeup you opinion.

Otherwise I don't care anymore, you are free to believe in unicorns, fairytales, gargoyles, the "boost effect of waiting for signs of preflowering with the light 18/6" and whatever... we live in post-factual age.... you can believe what you want..... does'nt make it TRUE a single bit.

I’ve had preflowers at week 6 in 20/4

I just told you that there is other factors, not only the duration... but also the SPECTRUM and the INTENSITY....if you give it enough DLI and a redweighted spectrum.... it promotes flowering... stop reducing everything on only ONE thing.... theres "factors"... duiration is "a factor", one of many. You did not enough research, i doubt you did any real research at all.

I’m not sure light cycle weighs into a plants preflowers.

I can tell you with certainty, but since you don't want to check the information for yourself, it makes more sence for me to leave you not-sure and stop argueing.

 

[CheGueVapo]

I recommend you to start here:

Understanding the Circadian Rhythms in Cannabis Plants

Let’s light up a discussion about how circadian rhythms in cannabis truly work & how to get the best harvest possible.

sensiseeds.com

First realize, that there is MORE to it, then just the duration. The plant has more sensory apperatus than just only the duration to detect the season, so it is NOT ENOUGH to keep it in vegetation only by duration forever without considering the other factors that make it sensor changes to it's inner clock. Too much red or too much DLI makes it develop signs of preflower no matter what.... because high intensity red light is sign of the autmn! No shits! You can't trick the plant with 20/4 when you give them the light spectrum/red-intensities of the autumn.... what you think... that the PLANT is stupid??? That you can fool it only with a timer clock and thats it.... no.

Then secondly please drop the idea of a plant, wether it be clone-cuttling or seedling has a puberty and need to show gender-signs to be ready to reach it's full potential with switching the light. These preflowering are 0% neccessary....

Whats necessary instead?
- Plants have enough roots for flowering.
- Leaves have grown all over the square

If you reached that state, with these two pre-conditionsbeeing ready to start.

Then switch the lights...it is weed....any further wait is a waste of:
-TIME
-ENERGY
-HEIGTH

The flowering will be 100% intense and maximally strong WITHOUT waiting for your feminised cannabis to show signs of preflower.

It's just a simple minded myth....

 

[LJ00]

They're healthy enough for flower without preflower, absolutely THE SAME.
The assumption that signs of preflowering have anything to do with maturity or health state, or that you need to wait for them, and do not wait for them has ANY NEGATIVE EFFECT simply is the wrong conclusion. You waste time and energy with that... realise it, or don't. I don't care your falsebelieves!

What reasearch you did? Please show me the sources of your information that makeup you opinion.

Otherwise I don't care anymore, you are free to believe in unicorns, fairytales, gargoyles, the "boost effect of waiting for signs of preflowering with the light 18/6" and whatever... we live in post-factual age.... you can believe what you want..... does'nt make it TRUE a single bit.


I just told you that there is other factors, not only the duration... but also the SPECTRUM and the INTENSITY....if you give it enough DLI and a redweighted spectrum.... it promotes flowering... stop reducing everything on only ONE thing.... theres "factors"... duiration is "a factor", one of many. You did not enough research, i doubt you did any real research at all.


I can tell you with certainty, but since you don't want to check the information for yourself, it makes more sence for me to leave you not-sure and stop argueing.

I recommend you to start here:

Understanding the Circadian Rhythms in Cannabis Plants

Let’s light up a discussion about how circadian rhythms in cannabis truly work & how to get the best harvest possible.

sensiseeds.com

First realize, that there is MORE to it, then just the duration. The plant has more sensory apperatus than just only the duration to detect the season, so it is NOT ENOUGH to keep it in vegetation only by duration forever without considering the other factors that make it sensor changes to it's inner clock. Too much red or too much DLI makes it develop signs of preflower no matter what.... because high intensity red light is sign of the autmn! No shits! You can't trick the plant with 20/4 when you give them the light spectrum/red-intensities of the autumn.... what you think... that the PLANT is stupid??? That you can fool it only with a timer clock and thats it.... no.

Then secondly please drop the idea of a plant, wether it be clone-cuttling or seedling has a puberty and need to show gender-signs to be ready to reach it's full potential with switching the light. These preflowering are 0% neccessary....

Whats necessary instead?
- Plants have enough roots for flowering.
- Leaves have grown all over the square

If you reached that state, with these two pre-conditionsbeeing ready to start.

Then switch the lights...it is weed....any further wait is a waste of:
-TIME
-ENERGY
-HEIGTH

The flowering will be 100% intense and maximally strong WITHOUT waiting for your feminised cannabis to show signs of preflower.

It's just a simple minded myth....

I’m not reading all that you seem like a “special” type of person to reply like that. You’re not god on this forum man take a step back and just give some advice don’t be like that.

 

[Roger A. Shrubber]

They're healthy enough for flower without preflower, absolutely THE SAME.
The assumption that signs of preflowering have anything to do with maturity or health state, or that you need to wait for them, and do not wait for them has ANY NEGATIVE EFFECT simply is the wrong conclusion. You waste time and energy with that... realise it, or don't. I don't care your falsebelieves!

What reasearch you did? Please show me the sources of your information that makeup you opinion.

Otherwise I don't care anymore, you are free to believe in unicorns, fairytales, gargoyles, the "boost effect of waiting for signs of preflowering with the light 18/6" and whatever... we live in post-factual age.... you can believe what you want..... does'nt make it TRUE a single bit.


I just told you that there is other factors, not only the duration... but also the SPECTRUM and the INTENSITY....if you give it enough DLI and a redweighted spectrum.... it promotes flowering... stop reducing everything on only ONE thing.... theres "factors"... duiration is "a factor", one of many. You did not enough research, i doubt you did any real research at all.


I can tell you with certainty, but since you don't want to check the information for yourself, it makes more sence for me to leave you not-sure and stop argueing.

yeah...that sounds like a real good plan...since at least half of what you tell people is horseshit

 

[Budzbuddha]

Rain man vibes ….

 

[FarmerRock]

i don't see N tox at all, that dark color isn't the color of N tox, and that twisting definitely is not "claw"
.unless the smell is specifically coming from the pots and not the plants, i don't think it implies root rot at all.
it is quite possible his soil is too hot for that strain, but he said he's using it for other plants, and they aren't having any problems.
the bloom nutes may be to balance what else is in his soil, i would like to see numbers for everything he added

Admittedly, pretty hard to tell from a picture. I find that 99% of the people I try to help (as karmic repayment to all those who helped me) have pH lockout and/or root rot. You're right; in buzzing by, I saw the dark leaves and assumed too much. I also missed that it stunk. I'll change my opinion at this point to some sort of infection. I'm guessing they plant didn't live or produced poorly?

 

[FarmerRock]

it was soil i put together myself all organic there is around 15% peat moss in the soil no coco, just good dirt, perlite gaia bloom(2-8-4) and a few other things

ph was 6.0 when the leaves started to curl so i brought it up to 6.4, im gonna water with 6.7 the next few days and see how she responds

what ended up happening to the plant?