yellowing veins

jdr00

Active Member
Hello every one , This is my third grow and this is the third time this has happened. The veins of the leaves are turning yellow and then the leaves turn light green then yellow but do not fall off by them selves. They are on day 55 and are auto flower. I'm feeding them 1 3/4 tsp big bloom, 1/2 tsp big grow 1 3/4 tsp tiger bloom and 1/2 tsp microbe brew ( all are fox farm fertilizer) every other watering and ph water of about 7. I do add ph up or down to adjust the ph . The ppm of om water is about 300 before I add anything .The leaves were dark green before the veins turned yellow . So my question is why are the veins of the leaves turning yellow and then the leaves slowly turn light green to yellow? I've done lots of research and fond no exact answer . If there is anything I'm leaving out please ask. FYI my plants are defiantly crowded. I know this. and will do it differently next time.

Thanks J
 

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simpleleaf

Well-Known Member
It looks like low N. I'm not familiar with your nutes or with auto-flower strains, but I'd give it more N to see if that stops further yellowing.

Edit: I didn't notice the curled down tips. What kind of growing media? What is the EC (or PPM) and pH of your nutes? Also, what is the drainage pH and EC?
 
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hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
It looks like low N. I'm not familiar with your nutes or with auto-flower strains, but I'd give it more N to see if that stops further yellowing.

Edit: I didn't notice the curled down tips. What kind of growing media? What is the EC (or PPM) and pH of your nutes? Also, what is the drainage pH and EC?
It’s darned sure not nitrogen deficiency. Look at the other leaves. Color. Probably overwatering.
 

jdr00

Active Member
It looks like low N. I'm not familiar with your nutes or with auto-flower strains, but I'd give it more N to see if that stops further yellowing.

Edit: I didn't notice the curled down tips. What kind of growing media? What is the EC (or PPM) and pH of your nutes? Also, what is the drainage pH and EC?
The fertilizer solution is a ph of 7.01 and 994 ppm but that's including tap water of 200- 250 ppm. The drainage is 6.35 ph and 1250 ppm
 
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simpleleaf

Well-Known Member
The fertilizer solution is a ph of 7.01 and 994 ppm but that's including tap water of 200- 250 ppm. The drainage is 6.35 ph and 1250 ppm
Thanks. EC is often equal to PPM x 2 (I believe there are 3 different conversion factors that are used). Without CO2, 2000 microsiemens/cm (same as 2.0 millisiemens/cm) is said the upper limit, so that's 1000 PPM. Personally, when my drainage EC exceeds that, I figure it's time to use pH'd water to lower it back down.

Also, you didn't say, or I missed, whether you said you were using potting mix. I'll presume that's the case. The fertilizer solution may be a little high on the pH, 6.7 or 6.8 is my upper limit. Your drainage pH is okay. For veg, it's lower, 6.3 or thereabouts. 6.5 is okay for both. With hydroponics (which I have not tried for many years), optimum pH levels are said lower, I believe 5.8 to 6.2.

Manganese loses availability at pH values over 7.5 or thereabouts, and it's on the decrease at 7.0.
 
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jdr00

Active Member
It’s darned sure not nitrogen deficiency. Look at the other leaves. Color. Probably overwatering.
I might have over watered it when it was growing into its pot. But i cant imagine that I'm over watering it now. I wait for the soil dry out almost completely before watering it. Unless I'm giving it to much water at one time. Is that possible ?
 

jdr00

Active Member
Thanks. EC is often equal to PPM x 2 (I believe there are 3 different conversion factors that are used). Without CO2, 2000 microsiemens/cm (same as 2.0 millisiemens/cm) is said the upper limit, so that's 1000 PPM. Personally, when my drainage EC exceeds that, I figure it's time to use pH'd water to lower it back down.

Also, you didn't say, or I missed, whether you said you were using potting mix. I'll presume that's the case. The fertilizer solution is a little high on the pH, 6.7 or 6.8 is my upper limit. For veg, it's lower, 6.3 or thereabouts. 6.5 is okay for both. With hydroponics (which I have not tried for many years), optimum pH levels are said lower, I believe 5.8 to 6.2.

Manganese loses availability at pH values over 7.5 or thereabouts, and it's on the decrease at 7.0.
I'm using fox farm ocean forest potting soil with about 25% perlite
 

jdr00

Active Member
Your drainage pH was fine, I edited my above post after you started writing your reply.

Your nutes are too strong.
Really, my nutrients are to strong. I thought cutting the nutes in half that it wouldn't be to much. I guess I was wrong.
 

jdr00

Active Member
Really, my nutrients are to strong. I thought cutting the nutes in half that it wouldn't be to much. I guess I was wrong.
What should the ppm of the nutes be at this stage in its development for a auto flower ?
 

simpleleaf

Well-Known Member
Really, my nutrients are to strong. I thought cutting the nutes in half that it wouldn't be to much. I guess I was wrong.
You have the tools to measure it, so might as well! You might find this EC chart useful.

What should the ppm of the nutes be at this stage in its development for a auto flower ?
There are various strategies, and there's a balancing act to keep salts from building up in the potting mix. Use your tools and keep measuring and refining. In my own potting mix grows I'm finding I don't want anything above 1300 µS/cm or so because of salt build up in the pot, which can be somewhat measured from the drainage EC. Ultimately you have to watch your plant after you make changes to its care, and be ready to back off if something you changed has a negative effect.



 

jdr00

Active Member
You have the tools to measure it, so might as well! You might find this EC chart useful.



There are various strategies, and there's a balancing act to keep salts from building up in the potting mix. Use your tools and keep measuring and refining. In my own potting mix grows I'm finding I don't want anything above 1300 µS/cm or so because of salt build up in the pot, which can be somewhat measured from the drainage EC. Ultimately you have to watch your plant after you make changes to its care, and be ready to back off if something you changed has a negative effect.



Thank you!
 

jdr00

Active Member
You have the tools to measure it, so might as well! You might find this EC chart useful.



There are various strategies, and there's a balancing act to keep salts from building up in the potting mix. Use your tools and keep measuring and refining. In my own potting mix grows I'm finding I don't want anything above 1300 µS/cm or so because of salt build up in the pot, which can be somewhat measured from the drainage EC. Ultimately you have to watch your plant after you make changes to its care, and be ready to back off if something you changed has a negative effect.



Are the ppms in my water to high 200-330 ppm
 

simpleleaf

Well-Known Member
Are the ppms in my water to high 200-330 ppm
I guess that is subtracted from the total salts that can be added to the nutrients. If you had RO water, you could add a few more concentrated nutes to it for the same EC.

I use RO water of about 60 PPM, but I don't think it's essential. It does work good for flushes.
 

twentyeight.threefive

Well-Known Member
I guess that is subtracted from the total salts that can be added to the nutrients. If you had RO water, you could add a few more concentrated nutes to it for the same EC.

I use RO water of about 60 PPM, but I don't think it's essential. It does work good for flushes.
It's additive. If you want 600ppm feed and your water is 200ppm then you'd want your feed total to be 800ppm. I'd suggest getting an RO filter if your water is that high ppm though.
 

jdr00

Active Member
editing- The yellowing has spread to the sugar leaves. It seems like the growth of the bud has slowed also. it probably to late to fix this. But id like to know for the future . any help would be appreciated.
 

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LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
Are the ppms in my water to high 200-330 ppm
There are some nutrients specifically designed for high PPM water. I've been using the GH Flora Trio series but have switched over to the Trio Micro Hardwater...and it does make a difference. It's specifically for water that's 200ppm or more.
 

jdr00

Active Member
what should I do about harvesting it? I'm afraid if I wait any longer the sugar leaves turn brown and not having any bud. I know its not ready yet but if I harvested now at least ill have something.
 
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