Incredible4Mr2E
Well-Known Member
That is the best thing I’ve read all day. I sent it to a couple of my buddies and they found it funny as hell. “Catch and release” that’s great!
Nute & Reverse Osmosis questions For Hydro
- Thread starter Incredible4Mr2E
- Start date
Incredible4Mr2E
Well-Known Member
Check out the deal going on right now. 20 bucks cheaper then last time and free shipping. .Not Grow Big, Big Bud made by AN. They have an organically derived version too. Lower in P than K at 0-15-35 with 20 amino acids, 10% S, citric and ascorbic acids.
I grew in Rubbermaid tubs, no rez, and every 3 days would top up to an inch under the net pots, wait a bit to let the bubbles mix everything up then check ppm. It would have dropped some depending on how many plants and their size so I would guesstimate how much of each nute to add back to raise the ppm to my target level and just use a syringe to squirt little bits of each into the tub to get back. When you flip to flower in just a few days the drop would be a lot more and after monitoring for a few grows found it could increase up to 4X during the stretch which means the plants are feeding like crazy. Right after the stretch the daily drop would slow down to before flower levels and begin slowing as flowering went on.
If you use the AN don't ever try to adjust the pH. Most people do and it screws it right up. Seems to want to read around 6.2 and works just fine sitting there.
I just got 3 - 1L bottles of their Jungle Juice so will be checking the pH when I start using it as it's not pH Perfect but uses the same formulation as the old 3-part and is about twice as concentrated. Got a new small can of the BB powder too. I'm hoping it comes out at a decent pH when mixed up in RO water so I don't have to adjust.
Got this chart for DWC but never really used it myself.
View attachment 5049219
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
It will most likely be cheaper but how much of your grow budget actually goes to nutes? If you cut back on unnecessary changes a little goes a long way. Running a 600W light 18 hours/day costs me $84/mth or $1008/yr. So for the 6 years since I bought the 3gal of nutes for $144 and the 500g can of Big Bud powder for $75 it's cost me $3.04/mth for my nutes while power has cost me over $6000. That would be strictly DWC but as I'm growing in a semi-organic manner now call it $5/mth for the other goodies I have to support that. I'm usually running more wattage for the little veg tent, fans, heater etc so add another 40% to that electric bill. Nutes are a pittance and for the convenience of never having to worry about pH and having the ability to adjust your nutrient balance for the plant's different stages are something like Jacks really cheaper?
I like to stay away from chlorine so have never used pool shock. I always just got a gal jug of 35% h2o2 for around $50 and that would last a couple years while I was running 2 DWC tubs steady. 0.5ml/L twice a week for maintenance and up to 5ml/L in case root root showed up but that only happened twice out of 50+ tubs worth. Both times I had used clones that were rooted in real soil and not HP. Both times I got rid of the rot with minimal impact on the grow. I've never tried any of the 'zyme type products but it seems to work for some but can be expensive from what I've read.
I did build a DIY chiller out of an old water cooler then stopped using peroxide at all for about the last 10 tubs I did as I could keep the nutes down to 65 -68F with the chiller.
Big Bud in powder form. Keeps a lot longer than the liquid one and the only one I've ever used.
I got lots of charts and pass them along when I see a place for them. Been saving stuff like that to the hard drive for years. Speaking of hard drives I got a solid state one while I was out in BC and cloned my drive to it and man is everything a lot faster. 1T drive for $140 so couldn't say no.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Incredible4Mr2E
Well-Known Member
I guess I don’t really have a budget. My electric bill in summer is like 100 bucks with AC’s and grow going. Winter bc we heat with electric, goes to like 250. I didn’t want to buy the base nutes every grow, that’s too much for me. If I can get one to last three grows, I’ll be super satisfied. I have issues with the PH though. Like today I did a water change, PH was 7.0. I think it’s bc I barley have any nutes in it. 25% recommended as the week goes I’ll just add to or spring water, depending if it needs to go up or down. I put ph down in, so I’ve been taking readings over the past couple hrs before lights go off. It’s starting to get easier at least getting the ph dialed in and keeping it close over the week.It will most likely be cheaper but how much of your grow budget actually goes to nutes? If you cut back on unnecessary changes a little goes a long way. Running a 600W light 18 hours/day costs me $84/mth or $1008/yr. So for the 6 years since I bought the 3gal of nutes for $144 and the 500g can of Big Bud powder for $75 it's cost me $3.04/mth for my nutes while power has cost me over $6000. That would be strictly DWC but as I'm growing in a semi-organic manner now call it $5/mth for the other goodies I have to support that. I'm usually running more wattage for the little veg tent, fans, heater etc so add another 40% to that electric bill. Nutes are a pittance and for the convenience of never having to worry about pH and having the ability to adjust your nutrient balance for the plant's different stages are something like Jacks really cheaper?
I like to stay away from chlorine so have never used pool shock. I always just got a gal jug of 35% h2o2 for around $50 and that would last a couple years while I was running 2 DWC tubs steady. 0.5ml/L twice a week for maintenance and up to 5ml/L in case root root showed up but that only happened twice out of 50+ tubs worth. Both times I had used clones that were rooted in real soil and not HP. Both times I got rid of the rot with minimal impact on the grow. I've never tried any of the 'zyme type products but it seems to work for some but can be expensive from what I've read.
I did build a DIY chiller out of an old water cooler then stopped using peroxide at all for about the last 10 tubs I did as I could keep the nutes down to 65 -68F with the chiller.
Big Bud in powder form. Keeps a lot longer than the liquid one and the only one I've ever used.
I got lots of charts and pass them along when I see a place for them. Been saving stuff like that to the hard drive for years. Speaking of hard drives I got a solid state one while I was out in BC and cloned my drive to it and man is everything a lot faster. 1T drive for $140 so couldn't say no.
Honestly, I’d rather not use shock, it just seems simple to put in and let go. I would rather use H2O2. I’m pretty sure my grow shop in town has a more pure version then what I have at like 3% I think it is. What days would you add the h2o2? Every three days or so?
God! I would love you buy a chiller, my wife doesn’t agree haha. The peltier setup I have does alright, but not good enough I’d trust to run it without backup. I used hygrozyme back when I grew in bubble buckets when I was younger. Now I’ve been using sensizym by AN and I do like it. I was reading an article and I believe it says that the enzymes would breakdown the H2O2 a little faster, but the H2O2 will not kill the enzymes.
I didn’t know AN made powdered nutes, I’m going to look into that a little more.
I really like solid state drives. My MacBook has one and they’re so fast and seem very reliable. That’s a good deal, definitely can’t pass it up. I figure if I’m going to need something anyways and you see it super cheap, get that shit! lol
Incredible4Mr2E
Well-Known Member
Good ole neighbors to the North lol My grandfather was French Canadian. SOB could drink! I think that’s where the entire family gets it from lmfao
Treesomewanted77
Well-Known Member
AN makes powdered boosters but I’m not if they make the base in powder form. I know general hydro came out with a new pro line that it’s powder form. The great think about jacks and mega crop and 19-4-24 is they can be bought in 50lb bag kits and those 50lbs will last a lot of grows at the hobby scale. I like powders because liquid nutrients are just powders with water added already to dilute them to make a stock solution and they charge way more for those water based stock solutions so why not just start with powders that cost less and last longer. Just my 0.2$
Incredible4Mr2E
Well-Known Member
That’s what I was thinking too, I just can’t make up my mind. I’m going to do another grow with the AN 3 part base and pick up what @rkymtnman recommended for additives. I can’t decide between shock and H2O2 for my sterile system.
Incredible4Mr2E
Well-Known Member
I was telling my buddy a couple weeks ago I bet the dried chunky shit that forms around that caps of the 3 part formula is the powered nutes drying out.
Incredible4Mr2E
Well-Known Member
My next grow I’m setting up my 4x4. I just ordered another 6” inline fan, another 2”bulkhead and a webit. I have to redo the plumbing on the system now that I’m changing tents. I’m trying to figure out how people have fans setup in for air circulation. I’m the 3x3 I have a 6” oscillating fan, a box fan blowing underneath and a 16” fan outside the tent door blowing in. I have to keep the tent open pretty much 24/7. The biggest reason I want to change it up is for more room allowing me to close the door and keep it light tight. I hate not being able to go in the bedroom and check temps and my control bucket. What’s the easiest way to have enough fans blowing good enough? I don’t know if I’m over thinking this, seen a shit ton of ideas, I just don’t know what will work. Any ideas? @OldMedUser @rkymtnman
Treesomewanted77
Well-Known Member
It may be best to have both on hand because sometimes the H202 doesn’t work for everyone and sometimes the shock doesn’t work for everyone. It’s cheap enough for both.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
The whole idea of the grow tent is to be able to isolate it's environment to suit the plants. Sounds like you are trying to cool things by keeping them in a hurricane but if the air you're blowing at them is warm/moist moving around more of it won't help. My grow room is 7x9' and I just have a 12" oscillating fan 3' from the plants wafting back and forth to move the air around. My 6" exhaust is on controllers to only run when it gets too warm or too humid and the heater is on a thermostat to only come on when it gets too cool. Their environment is pretty much dialed in. A remote thermometer with the display above my computer monitor lets me know at a glance what the temp and RH are down there. No rez to worry about.
You are exhausting to the outdoors aren't you? If temps are a problem you need to have cool air coming into the room the tent is in or use A/C to cool the air in the room so when the exhaust fan runs it's pulling drier, cooler air into the closed tent. Inside the tent one of those oscillating tower fans works well. Can even be set in a corner facing the corner so the air isn't blasting directly at the plants. The air just needs to be moving around a bit to refresh the air around the leaves but they don't need to be whipping around for that to happen efficiently.
Maybe just have your lights on when you're up and around so you can check your control bucket before light's out and won't need to disturb the plants during their dark period. If you can control the environment well enough then the tent can remain closed and you can go in whenever you want. A nice little portable A/C unit or mini-split may be just what you need but they aren't cheap.
Incredible4Mr2E
Well-Known Member
I have an A/C I’m the window year round. I also have the 1500 watt heater. I don’t exhaust outside at all either. I went in the room this morning right before lights came on, the ac let’s light in an hr before lights on. I just need to get the tent light tight and I’ll be good. I don’t have any issues with heat at all honestly. I have to heat the room even with everything running. The temp at canopy height is always between 77-82 degrees now. I have the temps pretty set. The humidity tho goes up to like 64% during the afternoon, drops to 50 by night until morn. I just thought you wanted a good amount of fans blowing on the canopy. I didn’t think the plants like the hurricane they got this entire grow, but I hammered them still. I’m going to try less fans this next grow.The whole idea of the grow tent is to be able to isolate it's environment to suit the plants. Sounds like you are trying to cool things by keeping them in a hurricane but if the air you're blowing at them is warm/moist moving around more of it won't help. My grow room is 7x9' and I just have a 12" oscillating fan 3' from the plants wafting back and forth to move the air around. My 6" exhaust is on controllers to only run when it gets too warm or too humid and the heater is on a thermostat to only come on when it gets too cool. Their environment is pretty much dialed in. A remote thermometer with the display above my computer monitor lets me know at a glance what the temp and RH are down there. No rez to worry about.
You are exhausting to the outdoors aren't you? If temps are a problem you need to have cool air coming into the room the tent is in or use A/C to cool the air in the room so when the exhaust fan runs it's pulling drier, cooler air into the closed tent. Inside the tent one of those oscillating tower fans works well. Can even be set in a corner facing the corner so the air isn't blasting directly at the plants. The air just needs to be moving around a bit to refresh the air around the leaves but they don't need to be whipping around for that to happen efficiently.
Maybe just have your lights on when you're up and around so you can check your control bucket before light's out and won't need to disturb the plants during their dark period. If you can control the environment well enough then the tent can remain closed and you can go in whenever you want. A nice little portable A/C unit or mini-split may be just what you need but they aren't cheap.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
If the A/C lets light in an hour before the lights come on why not change the light schedule to come on a hour sooner?
My heater is 1500W too but can switch on 750 at a time so just use 750. If that side burns out I'll still have the other to use. I wired up a baseboard thermostat to control it's time on and off.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i suck in cold colorado air to keep my temps down and just have a 6" fan mounted on the top of the bloom room running 24/7 and a tiny dehuey to keep the RH% down slightly in lights out.
Incredible4Mr2E
Well-Known Member
I didn’t know if changing the hrs would screw with them. I know when daylight savings time changes for me it screws me up lol. I’m just going to cover it up with a towel unless I turn it on for now. It’s only for a couple weeks and temps have dropped and aren’t going back up anytime soon.If the A/C lets light in an hour before the lights come on why not change the light schedule to come on a hour sooner?
My heater is 1500W too but can switch on 750 at a time so just use 750. If that side burns out I'll still have the other to use. I wired up a baseboard thermostat to control it's time on and off.
View attachment 5050676
Incredible4Mr2E
Well-Known Member
When I ran a 1000watt hps I had one of the cooling hoods and pulled air thru the outside in winter. If I opened the window to try and cool the room I’d freeze it out lol.
Incredible4Mr2E
Well-Known Member
Next grow I’m putting the pool and tent in the middle so I can unzip it and go all the way around it. If I framed something I’d loose the option unless I put some removable walls. I’m this case I think tents easier for me.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i had to look back to page 1 to remember the pool part. lol.
if you put those 2 totes in a 4x4, how much room would you have around the edges?