Insulating basement block walls and sheet rock wall
- Thread starter la Machine
- Start date
ComfortCreator
Well-Known Member
Sorry if I caused confusion. I have a condensation issue and asked in this thread
My bad!
My bad!
Wait a minute. I only had drafty air leaks. I used spray foam from WMT, 4 cans all together. I wet my finger and slowly went around the perimeter of the basement feeling for drafts. When I felt a draft I hit it with the foam. I still ended up tossing an oil tank space heater into the tent, Got that from WMT. I didn't mean for it to happen but WMT is the store I frequent most.
What kind of condensation do you have? On the walls?
la Machine
Member
McShnutz
Well-Known Member
Any masonry coating must be breathable. Otherwise you'll trap moisture and build hydrostatic pressure. Eventually you'll get effervescence deposits. Lol, I'm a journeyman Mason, brick and cmu but I do cultured stone too.
I have a poured concrete basement. Where I'm @ last winter temperatures dipped below zero. This made the freeze line go down. So when the warm sparks of spring came along condensation formed in one corner on the walls, about a foot or so up from the floor.
After the few 'hot' days passed the walls warmed and the condensation stopped. Through the rest of the year there is no water permeating through the wall or anything.
After the few 'hot' days passed the walls warmed and the condensation stopped. Through the rest of the year there is no water permeating through the wall or anything.
McShnutz
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't fix anything right up against the wall, like foam board. Instead I'd leave a 1-2" gap. If you want to sheath your walls you first need to install some vertical studs. No need to put 2x4. If you have a tablesaw I'd rip the 2x4 into a 2x2. Place them every 24" on center and either use Tapcon masonry anchors or Rawls. Predrill your pilots first and then if you want to install gypsum board "green" or foam board you can fasten right to the stud.
Alternatively you can always white wash your walls.
There's nothing really to fix, fix for me. I need to keep the basement warmer during the winter so that the wall isn't so cold when the spring warm-up forms. I'm pretty sure there would be zero condensation if not for the plants.
meangreengrowinmachine
Well-Known Member
I just planned out a nice 3 room set up (just bored and like doing it) I already have a 5 x 10, 4 x 4 room and a 5 x 5 tent in the basement. But would like to make it more efficient. Without lights (which I already have a decent collection of cobs) thinking like 3k. That would be installing a sub panel breaker box and all new outlets, base board heating and all 3 rooms separate doors and dark room ventilation. I love planning grow room pipe dreams lol
Personally I'm thinking of asking the hydro store guy/gal to drop by and give me some pointers. I'd like to go full-scale production.
I've been trying some new LEDs I bought from AMZN but I had better results with MH, so far.
xox
Well-Known Member
thats very odd that the condensation is only on one wall not all the walls considering the exterior temp around the whole building would generally be the same just like the temperature in the basement thats all open would indeed be the same. sounds like water is getting inside. id recommend digging outside around the building to repair that. there are many products you can put on the outside to fix that from classic tar (dont do tar), blueskin, there are some other newer commercial products that can be sprayed on the outside of the exterior basement walls. blueskin is easy to do once you get the hang of it. blueskin on the outside of the block should fix that up (however there could be some structural issues) sometimes when theres to much frost being driven down say when a vechicle continues to park in the exact same spot everyday next to a block wall basement the frost can damage the block wall pushing the blocks inward.
Markshomegrown
Well-Known Member
I wish I had a basement, condensation, high humidity not a problem, double wrap the room in thick damp-proof membrane, it will stop all of it.
It sure seems like that but a few degrees really matter in such a confined space.. The North side of a building doesn't get any sun during winter. The North side of a building will always be cooler than the South. The frost line will dip lower on the North side.
If there are heater vents in the basement I'd guess the wall they blow towards would be warmest overall. The wall behind the heater vent would be the coolest.
Generally speaking. Standard disclaimers. Yada, yada mumbo-jumbo.
xox
Well-Known Member
yes that is all true however the amount of moisture or condensation thats being described makes me think otherwise. also doesnt sound like a confined space its 55' x 16'
GanjaJack
Well-Known Member
I used a big giant bucket of Flat White basement sealer from Lowe's and used the white walls as my reflect from the lights.
I personally would not seal the floor. Sometimes(depending on stuff you use) if you get a little water on the floor, these sealers then turn your floor into an ice rink..... Which makes moving plants and stuff like that even that much more of a pain in the ass.
I personally would not seal the floor. Sometimes(depending on stuff you use) if you get a little water on the floor, these sealers then turn your floor into an ice rink..... Which makes moving plants and stuff like that even that much more of a pain in the ass.
I had one outside basement wall that was colder in winter and my solution was to stud-it-out 2"X4"x16" OC, insulate and plywood sheathing painted white. Drywall would work as well. This worked for my situation. Just make certain it's done properly and don't fret it. Your plants will thank you. Oh yes, also consider the floor temp. Might want to raise the pots or bags up a bit if it's a little colder in the winter. Just some things to consider; your situation will dictate what is best. Good luck and have fun.