Wait a minute. I only had drafty air leaks. I used spray foam from WMT, 4 cans all together. I wet my finger and slowly went around the perimeter of the basement feeling for drafts. When I felt a draft I hit it with the foam. I still ended up tossing an oil tank space heater into the tent, Got that from WMT. I didn't mean for it to happen but WMT is the store I frequent most.did you use regular foam out the can or commercial foam
Wait a minute. I only had drafty air leaks. I used spray foam from WMT, 4 cans all together. I wet my finger and slowly went around the perimeter of the basement feeling for drafts. When I felt a draft I hit it with the foam. I still ended up tossing an oil tank space heater into the tent, Got that from WMT. I didn't mean for it to happen but WMT is the store I frequent most.
What kind of condensation do you have? On the walls?
The walls are dry and this is my first build. I'm just researching before I get material and things to look out for. Any information I get is greatly appreciate.
Any masonry coating must be breathable. Otherwise you'll trap moisture and build hydrostatic pressure. Eventually you'll get effervescence deposits. Lol, I'm a journeyman Mason, brick and cmu but I do cultured stone too.If the moisture is coming from the outside, as it almost certainly is, recommend painting the walls. Moisture building behind insulation and vapor barrier could get ugly.
I wouldn't fix anything right up against the wall, like foam board. Instead I'd leave a 1-2" gap. If you want to sheath your walls you first need to install some vertical studs. No need to put 2x4. If you have a tablesaw I'd rip the 2x4 into a 2x2. Place them every 24" on center and either use Tapcon masonry anchors or Rawls. Predrill your pilots first and then if you want to install gypsum board "green" or foam board you can fasten right to the stud.I have a poured concrete basement. Where I'm @ last winter temperatures dipped below zero. This made the freeze line go down. So when the warm sparks of spring came along condensation formed in one corner on the walls, about a foot or so up from the floor.
After the few 'hot' days passed the walls warmed and the condensation stopped. Through the rest of the year there is no water permeating through the wall or anything.
There's nothing really to fix, fix for me. I need to keep the basement warmer during the winter so that the wall isn't so cold when the spring warm-up forms. I'm pretty sure there would be zero condensation if not for the plants.I wouldn't fix anything right up against the wall, like foam board. Instead I'd leave a 1-2" gap. If you want to sheath your walls you first need to install some vertical studs. No need to put 2x4. If you have a tablesaw I'd rip the 2x4 into a 2x2. Place them every 24" on center and either use Tapcon masonry anchors or Rawls. Predrill your pilots first and then if you want to install gypsum board "green" or foam board you can fasten right to the stud.
Alternatively you can always white wash your walls.
Personally I'm thinking of asking the hydro store guy/gal to drop by and give me some pointers. I'd like to go full-scale production.I just planned out a nice 3 room set up (just bored and like doing it) I already have a 5 x 10, 4 x 4 room and a 5 x 5 tent in the basement. But would like to make it more efficient. Without lights (which I already have a decent collection of cobs) thinking like 3k. That would be installing a sub panel breaker box and all new outlets, base board heating and all 3 rooms separate doors and dark room ventilation. I love planning grow room pipe dreams lol
It sure seems like that but a few degrees really matter in such a confined space.. The North side of a building doesn't get any sun during winter. The North side of a building will always be cooler than the South. The frost line will dip lower on the North side.exterior temp around the whole building would generally be the same just like the temperature in the basement thats all open would indeed be the same
yes that is all true however the amount of moisture or condensation thats being described makes me think otherwise. also doesnt sound like a confined space its 55' x 16'It sure seems like that but a few degrees really matter in such a confined space.. The North side of a building doesn't get any sun during winter. The North side of a building will always be cooler than the South. The frost line will dip lower on the North side.
If there are heater vents in the basement I'd guess the wall they blow towards would be warmest overall. The wall behind the heater vent would be the coolest.
Generally speaking. Standard disclaimers. Yada, yada mumbo-jumbo.