Stunted growth - a repeating problem I can not solve.

TheAmazingDoctorZymes

TheAmazingDoctorZymes

Member
Could be a fungus problem or other soil borne problem. You can grab a free sample of 100% all natural, all-in-one insecticide & fungicide if you like. https://doctorzymes.com/wizard

It will eliminate the problem without the use of harmful chemicals, killer pesticides, clogging oils, and other unnatural ingredients. Besides mites, prevent and eliminate pests, harmful insects, fungus, mildew, molds, viruses, and bad bacteria causing disease in your garden.

Once you get it, here is what you do. It is safe to spray on flowers until harvest. If you have an issue, use 4 oz per gallon, spray 3-5 days in a row. Use 1 cup per 5 gallons to do a soil drench to get any eggs, larvae, fungus etc. in the soil.

Be sure to pH between 6 and 7, and lights out immediately after spraying, with fans on. if you can, heat the solution up to 90° for maximum effectiveness. This will help.
 
P

plan500

Well-Known Member
mannitu77 said:
my 3 gallon pots can take 2.8-3.0l water...runoff water might give you a wrong impression, if you dont make it right, because when the pot is dry, it takes really long for the water to really reach every spot in the pot. when i water it can take 3-4 hours...first i spray the surface until its wet, then i water 500ml, and then a little over a liter for watering 2 and 3. Sometimes 1 or 1,5 hours between. But i have they time and only a tiny tent.

The bigger the pot, the more days you have between watering. Might be worth it in your case, i imagine it can be pretty annoying in your case.

Watering fabric pots is much less pain. For that i think fabric pots really have the most advantages. Even if you could argue they dont have the same root-development as airpots.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. Yesterday I watered 0.5L and waited about 20 min, then watered another 1L. Then gave them some time, some of them had run off others didn't. I then added another 0.1L to those that didn't have runoff and left it there. So I can assume 1.6L is about enough to soak the whole pot of approximately 8L soil (peat). That is exactly 20% water of the soil volume. If I try and add some more later it will probably absorbs some more, but I don't have the time for this.
 
Last edited:
P

plan500

Well-Known Member
Things are going amazingly well. Plants got lighter color, started growing and generally look healthy. This is a picture a day after I watered with 1.6L, completely soaking the plant to little runoff. Before I would consider this overwatering but now I realize I've been torturing those plants with by soaking 50% of the soil and get all kinds of issues. I also water in 2-3 stages now, so that the absorption is more balanced.

2022-10-26 18.47.46.jpg
 
Blue brother

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
I’m glad you seem to be getting where u want now! I know it’s late but as @coreywebster said I’d bump those temps up, 27c at 80rh imo will stall the plants as they won’t be transpiring very much, even for veg, I like 30c when I’m at 80rh, this is all very strain dependent when it comes to ideal leaf temp so what works for me might not work for others but over time I’ve got to know my system and vpd is the first thing I adjust when I’m not getting the growth rate I want
 
M

mannitu77

Active Member
Watering really is the absolote majority of mistakes. Followed by too much fertilizer. Some people just cant handle that impuls "man my plant could really use some water now to grow better".

If you get the watering right and follow a well established organic-route like Biobizz, theres not much that can go wrong.

You took off a lot of leaves at an early stage. You ever tested that, if thats actually gaining anything and not limiting? You got a lot of plants, you could easily make a little study for yourself and let a few plants grow without pruning. Would be interesting.


edit: by the way, at the stage theyre in, with that small leave surface, they should get along several days with 1.6l. I would guess at least 4 days, probably more.
 
P

plan500

Well-Known Member
Blue brother said:
I’m glad you seem to be getting where u want now! I know it’s late but as @coreywebster said I’d bump those temps up, 27c at 80rh imo will stall the plants as they won’t be transpiring very much, even for veg, I like 30c when I’m at 80rh, this is all very strain dependent when it comes to ideal leaf temp so what works for me might not work for others but over time I’ve got to know my system and vpd is the first thing I adjust when I’m not getting the growth rate I want
Click to expand...
Now that things finally took off I can will try to keep 28-30 degrees and around 70-80% RH. I think those ranges will be fine. Since I fixed the watering everything seems to new to me, all previous conclusion I've made were based on stunted plants, so now I will have to reapply a lot of the steps that didn't work as well before. VPS was a big area I research and I was confused for a long time because different charts showed quite different figures and also there are still people who flower at 40% humidity and 28 degrees, which contradicts the whole VPD theory. I will post a few charts in case someone is lost into this field. Basically Veg 28-30 degree @ 75-80% RH, and in MID-flower 28-30 degree @ 65-70% RH and in LATE-flower 28-30 degrees @ 60-65% RH. At least that's my understanding, without bothering to measure LST. Let me know what you think.
 

Attachments

P

plan500

Well-Known Member
mannitu77 said:
Watering really is the absolote majority of mistakes. Followed by too much fertilizer. Some people just cant handle that impuls "man my plant could really use some water now to grow better".

If you get the watering right and follow a well established organic-route like Biobizz, theres not much that can go wrong.

You took off a lot of leaves at an early stage. You ever tested that, if thats actually gaining anything and not limiting? You got a lot of plants, you could easily make a little study for yourself and let a few plants grow without pruning. Would be interesting.


edit: by the way, at the stage theyre in, with that small leave surface, they should get along several days with 1.6l. I would guess at least 4 days, probably more.
Click to expand...
It is difficult to tell if removing lower leaves is beneficial. With my problems in the past I looked beneficial since plants really improved after removing leaves, at least for a couple of days, but now that I water properly it might have the opposite effect.
 
Blue brother

Blue brother

Well-Known Member
plan500 said:
Now that things finally took off I can will try to keep 28-30 degrees and around 70-80% RH. I think those ranges will be fine. Since I fixed the watering everything seems to new to me, all previous conclusion I've made were based on stunted plants, so now I will have to reapply a lot of the steps that didn't work as well before. VPS was a big area I research and I was confused for a long time because different charts showed quite different figures and also there are still people who flower at 40% humidity and 28 degrees, which contradicts the whole VPD theory. I will post a few charts in case someone is lost into this field. Basically Veg 28-30 degree @ 75-80% RH, and in MID-flower 28-30 degree @ 65-70% RH and in LATE-flower 28-30 degrees @ 60-65% RH. At least that's my understanding, without bothering to measure LST. Let me know what you think.
Click to expand...
I think the charts are just a guide, and as you can see they show you the individual temp and rh parameters needed to maintain a given vpd.

For me I consider what is most important at each stage of the grow,

during veg and early flower I want high temps which speeds up the plants metabolism, so going off the chart I know I need to have my humidity at a certain point so the correct vpd is maintained and I don’t stress the plant,

during mid flower I still want high temps but I want to increase the vpd so the plant transpires more, which means I need to lower the humidity slightly,

towards the end of flower I want lower temps to preserve terps and canabinoids but I don’t want to worry about water on the buds OR slowing down transpiration so I adjust the humidity down too which in turn will maintain the vpd at a set point.

this is a technique that requires a lot of experimentation which pretty much starts allover again when I change strains, I use the chart to help me decide what other parameters to maintain once I find a leaf temp sweet spot for a given strain.

Large indoor facility’s that grow the same clone year in year out will have their own parameters allocated to different times throughout the grow, and the room next door running a different clone will have its own parameters too. It really is trial and error, but the vpd charts help us make sense of what is going on as we change each parameter.

hope this helps man! Peace
 
M

mannitu77

Active Member
plan500 said:
It is difficult to tell if removing lower leaves is beneficial. With my problems in the past I looked beneficial since plants really improved after removing leaves, at least for a couple of days, but now that I water properly it might have the opposite effect.
Click to expand...
well then take the chance and test it. You have the perfect conditions for that. Take a row of 5 plants and let them grow how much they want. Id be excited to see the conclusions. All plants will have yield, so you have nothing to lose, only knowledge to gain.
 
P

plan500

Well-Known Member
Beginning of week 3 flowering, I couldn't be more satisfied with the overall improvement. I now water 1.7L every 4-5 days in 9 liters medium and they love it all the time. Thanks again to all that helped me figure this out!

flower1.jpgflower2.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top