canndo
Well-Known Member
Just remember, your nearly colonized jars give off heat. I run hot because I monitor and I keep the jars a few inches from one another.
Thermal disruption begins at about 85. The mycelium will begin to exude a clear liquid and become more susceptible to infection. That exudate changes color soon afterward.
After 86 I find that the myc never really recovers. Thermal death begins to occur a bit higher.
Some say light early in colonization is a plus. I've never noticed that but I am a firm believer in light as a primary trigger.
This trigger only seems to occurr after the mycelium is capable of bruising and staining.
So the only reason I don't keep them in the dark is because it's easier to check them.
When you check on light as a trigger, remember that exposure to light in order to trigger need be only a few seconds.
After that, the light is only needed to keep the stipe short and the caps wide.
The quicker your full colonization the more nutrient is left for flushes but this is in dispute as well.
I am also a big proponent of a true casing layer. When I see some of the more successful folks pictures here, I wonder how much more prolific their crop might be with a half an inch of well managed casing.
But that is just me. These things will fruit in spite of our efforts, our exotic substrate formulas, our filters, complrx jars, misting, temperature variations and even genetic differences.
Keep that in mind and remember that contamination is multiplicitive.
Try to keep from contamination at your first cycles because you will absolutely get the green doom and from that point you will never again be rid of it.
All you can do from there is manage it with rh, ph and air flow.
Good luck. Post pictures.
